Alright, this video was the only video that got my Ender 5+ to level. Awesome content!

This channel has single handedly gotten my E5+ printing like butter. Great work!

I moved from a Pro to a Plus and this HELPED !!!!! I was a Pro at the Pro... This one was like learning a slightly new machine even with same type design.

Remove the live-z offset before starting the leveling process and you won't have the nozzle slamming into your bed like that.

Clear, easy to follow and now I finally know what I'm supposed to be doing when it comes to levelling the bed.

I have done everything like this video said very precisely, and when I do the auto measure, only a few numbers are at zero-ish, and opposite corner at -5. Nothing I do can get zeros all around

You have been a huge help with my E5+ experience! I had a few issues out of the box (hit and miss with this machine) but your videos have been the difference and mine has been great. It was nice to see that you dropped this video, a sort of culmination of all the things you have learned over this E5+ journey. Your tweaks to the firmware made a huge difference in my auto leveling experience. Quick question, out of all the hot ends you have tried with this tool, which is your favorite? I am currently using Micro Swiss and find it acceptable but I struggle with the fine line of clog vs stringing in retraction settings. Please keep doing your thing, you have helped so many of us!!

I've watched this video like 20 times over the last 8 months. Thank you again.

Hi Kris, good video however I have had the best and most consistent results by replacing the MCU with a SKR E3 Turbo that has the 5 drivers. This gives you that ability to use the Z-tilt function with a dedicated driver for each z motor versus sharing as driver. I use Klipper with all of my E5P printers and my routine is to home the bed, and do a Z-tilt before each print. I now only do a bed mesh calibration/bed leveling screw adjustment when I notice inconsistency in my prints and or when the z-tilt goes past the 5 times. This does not happen very often and I have not touched the bed leveling screw adjustments unless I am calibrating the bed mesh. My printers are printing consistently 24/7 and it has been months since I last had to touch any of the bed leveling outside adjusting the Z-offest when changing filament type. Prior to this I pulled my hair out, adjusting bed screws, with a slightly warped bed.

Great video. I followed it, damn near frame by frame. No matter what I do, the measurement readings are crazy. I've tried every way I can think of. I've been trying to make tiny adjustments and re-measure, and basically walk it in. Watch where the numbers move each time, etc... I've taken 261 photos of my screen so far. That's 261 measurements, and I can't get it so more than the home spot reads with a zero in the first position. Hope I didn't get a dud.

This is so well timed. I've been diagnosing my ever 5 plus. My first 3D printer for 2 days now and I've gotten no where. Following this my first test print was almost perfect. 3 out of 4 skirt lines actually adhered properly.

Man if i had this a year ago it would have saved so much time

I Think you can avoid the bed pushing up into the print head , by starting a print , go into adjust and make the z axis compensation Zero. Then start the level process. Just a humble option. Thank you for all your great and helpful videos.

Man, you’ve saved my ass yet again! Thanks brother!

Assembled my E5+ today, test print running now. Working. Thanks to your video. 💜

Great vid man Was able to finally get a print out

For gapping between the two aluminum bars (2:51) you can use the shaft of the 3mm (or 2mm) Allen wrench that comes with the printer's tool set. Measure just inside of the notches cut in the bar. For that first measurement between the nozzle and the print surface, I can't see a reason for using the thinnest feeler gauge in a set. Creality has shipped a 0.20mm feeler gauge with other printers that use the same tramming process. It worked very well for my CR10S Pro V2. I have since purchased a 30cm long (12 inch) 0.20mm feeler gauge that I'll be using on my 5+ (also have a long 0.30mm). The length makes it a lot easier to do the center adjustment as well as the four corners. One thing to remember us that the feeler gauges are for measuring "clearance". Sliding them up alongside the nozzle gets you nothing better than a guess -- especially if you are using the thinnest gauge in the set.

While I don't have an Ender 5 Plus, it looks similar to my Tronxy X5SA Pro in some ways. First, it's big and second it has dual Z axis lead screws. The challenge I had with my Tronxy is that the bed would sag (z lead screw would turn) between prints when the stepper motors are off and would sag differently from side to side. So originally, I had to try to get the left and ride side the same before each and every print which was not always successful. The main board that came with the printer sent the same stepper signals to both the left and right motors. I swapped it out with one that allowed me to control the left and right side independently and now I can use the G34 auto z align command before every print. This command takes a measure on each side and adjusts until they are the same and then does the print. This made all the difference for me. Now my first layer is correct every time. I still had to level the bed and do the mesh like the video shows but now those settings get applied the same way each time because the bed is level from left to right. I assume you could do the same thing with the Ender 5 Plus. But I would warn that it was a big undertaking to swap mainboards, configure marlin, etc. But I love the results and it was worth it to me.

Glad I discovered this video, and you! I was about to throw my E5+ out the damn window. Now it's almost dialed in completely. Thank you sir.

Kris, had it not been for you, I would have not selected my Ender 5 plus about 2 years ago. Your videos allowed for perfect adjustments. It has always printed great. Thanks for this new Ender 5 Plus leveling tutorial. A few tips I did not know, are now known. Thank you

I bought mine used , this video helped me alot , thank you

great vid, for those playing along, and the vid isnt finished yet so if addressed please ignore. Best to check the wheels on the moving assembly to ensure no slop and check the nozzle is secured fully down when cold. If that nozzle is loose it will move during long prints. Basically shake everything and ensure no slop in the machine and then begin this video. Excellent info, i prefer doin this in octoprint as i find it easier with granular control, i do like the on the fly z axis adjust.

Once you have followed the instructions up to tramming the bed you can use the Autobim plugin if you have Octoprint, Autobim uses the BL Touch to measure each corner and instructs you how much to turn each wheel to get it trammed, this is using actual measurements instead of feel, the feel method is ok and will get you a good first layer but once I had used my feeler gauges the Autobim plugin showed me how much I was out of true level and guided me to true level.

Brilliant Kris. Creality needs to link direct to you. Lost days fiddling trying to use the factory manual. Thanks for showing all of it - warts and all. Oh and I scrapped the factory glass.

Honestly thank you so much!!! literally for past few months been struggling to get my calibration sorted and finally this has resolved it!! the very first tip was a godsend did not notice one side was a couple of mm higher than the other and that kept preventing me getting inconsistent results 🙂

Hehe, good to know that I'm not only one crazy using the eye method. :D

Yup, I can confirm solved all my issues too...

Tramming..CNC term. Digital caliper mounted to your router..ops.. nozzle would be awesome too. And to get a nice flat bed. We usually do a fly cut. Which you don't have that option. Of all my years of rough framing everything being between a 1/16 and an 1/8.. couldnt even imagine what a few thousandths of an inch..or a millimeter looks like! Truly amazing what these 3D printers can do. And all they are going to do is get better! The imagination is limitless!! I currently work with a 5x10 CNC wood router and have a small 30"x30" CNC at home. I've been looking into 3D printing and was really liking how this one works. I like that the bed isn't moving back and forth vs the x, y. It would be nice if all the steppers were on a threaded rod. For filament..i think it's just fine.

I have been looking for a good Ender 5 Plus leveling guide for a long while now, once I get some racking set up I get to use the printer I have only been able to use once since buying it.

Well the beast is together, Z moves, X moves, Y moves, I move 😄. I noticed that the distance from nozzle to bed is way off so adjusting will be essential. I shall perform all your steps so I can ensure it is flat as a pancake. Thank you for your videos. Firmware out of the box is 1.70.2

Ive done a lot of machine setups, very good video, love my ender 5 plus.

I would have never figured this out thanks alot

very simple and easy to follow. Thank you!

I'm about to throw the E5+ to the curb. Each time I get it dialed in perfectly I can print 2-3 things or maybe lets say 30-40 hours of print time, then insert the nightmare of trying to get it levelled and dialed in again. I really thank you for this guide it makes it seem so straight forward. But in my case the outside of the test STL you provide prints fine and no material appears in the center and the nozzle practically drags on the build plate in the center areas. I've tried 3 diff build plates, orig glass provided, a magnetic flex plate, and the new updated Creality glass bed I just cannot get this to work. 1) Measured bed to gantry 2) got the nozzle to 205, bed to 60 3) set zhome 4) did the aux levelling thing several times 5) measured map/mesh looks great 6) tried your test print and worked the z-offset until I would see adhesion and fairly flat squished filament. Then when it gets to the X pattern it starts applying filament on the outsides of the X pattern but where the lines merge in the center I ahve about a 3" x 3" area that no filament even appears like empty area. Pulling hair out :( :( about to give up.

Thanks for this, i just bought one of those feeler gauges to properly level, been going mad trying to get this thing working, i'm still dissapointed in BTT the board other than the flashing was perfectly functional, i ordered one of their boards can't remember the name something turbo or something, anyways, you gotta flash it via the SD Card, i got a bad board that i couldn't flash no matter what i tried, it just refused to pick up the firmware.bin, returned it, the replacement was also defective, needless to say, i'm just gonna be buying a creality silent board next time, looking forward to printing bigger things, all your videos have been a giant help thanks for helping all these ender 5 plus owners.

Thanks for this. It was a huge help.

Great video, Kris. An excellent example of real world printing.

I don't have a ruler....I trammed mine by using 2 bottles of decoart americana....one tuscan red and one yellow ochre both 2 fl oz or 59 ml bottles....it worked....

With the e5+ I found after making settings adjustments in the leveling interface screen you have to hit the home button to save to eprom otherwise when you turn your machine off it will not save the distances. There is no other save to epromm button that I have found and this is kind of a hidden feature (unless you change your firmware) And thank you Chris prior vids of yours helped me in the past alot! And this video definitely clarifies alot of unknown and unsaid for the e5+ leveling

Thanks for the informative video Kris! Definitely have a much more level print bed on my Ender 5 Plus after watching this!

I borderline regret my 5 Plus. What a pain it's been. Flsun Q5 has been bulletproof and works every time

Thank your Kersey your channels been a life saver for E5+ !

Great movie as always Kris! I could have used this when I got my Ender 5 plus a few weeks ago, as there was nothing in the instructions about using the z home button 😒 Now though, I use a dial test indicator and a printed mount from thingiverse. It’s really accurate but very quick, too. The feeler gauge approach is really good though and a lot less hassle to set up. 👍

The mesh measurement can also show negative values. Maybe for new people have box in there for negative and positive measurements and what they indicate.

Interesting Kris trying to figure out the correct process for when you have Z auto-align and then the scan with your firmware on the SKR 2. Only found out by accident that when I hooked up Octopi it will not let you print unless you do a bed level first, doing test prints at the moment.

exactly the way i do it .. every time .. what is like once after any bigger change on the printer ..

Owh thanks bro... now i can print my files...

Mine pushes up so aggressively in the center that I have to shut it off, it makes a very bad sound. The center is physically higher then the rest of the bed. Where are these forums and boards that you mentioned to help with this?

I just got this printer yesterday. Assembled the printer powered up and homed the nozzle to start the initial leveling process. The nozzle promptly crashed into the bed, the BL touch would light up but the probe would not extend downward. I didn't even have access to the manual leveling function. After repeated attempts to try and auto home I suspected that the BL touch was defective. I opened up the printer and wanted to check wiring to make sure everything was hooked up. All appeared to be fine except the globs of glue everywhere. I couldn't verify if the wiring was correct due to the fact that some connections were not shown in the user manual. I found a Creality video with the ender 5 plus and I could see that the BL touch was plugged into the wrong connectors. I plugged the connectors like in the video and tried again. The BL touch dropped the probe and I was able to get into the AUX menu. Finally after a couple of hours of nonsense I was able to due a test print which for the most part came out pretty good. There still some issues that I still need to address, like the printer won't read the SD card. I just received a new Creality silent board, so maybe that will take care of the SD card issue. I will need to further dial this printer in, but I noticed that Creality is back to using mean well power supplies again. I'm not sure about this printer though. I have printed 2 items preloaded on the SD card, and I have had 3 failures. But thanks for these video, I've been using videos to help me.

More Ender 5 Plus content please. I'm thinking of getting one and want to see how well it prints compared to an X-Y. Putting fingerprints on the bed can stop filament sticking in patches. It looks like that is happening here.

Thanks, you're a life saver.

A bit random but I thought people might find this information useful. I haven't seen anyone mention on youtube if replacing worn rubber rollers with poly-carbonate rollers are any better. I did that and I can tell you that they wear quicker (I had dust particles from the rollers all over the extruded bar within days) and they sometimes squeak. So if you need new rollers then stick to the cheaper rubber ones !

I notice that the "Auto leveling" feature is turned off (7:01) during this video. What, exactly, does that setting do? If you press "Measuring" with Auto leveling turned on, does it overwrite the manual leveling you've done? I have a 5 Plus and I feel like I'm re-leveling it way more than I should be...

I know this Is an old post but i've gone through this procedure many times and the numbers I get are so much larger. From bottom left to top right I'm Getting -4.834, -4.462, -4.712, -4.624 -1.887, -1.862, -2.012, -2.424 0.962, 0.000, 1.100, 0.675 2.562, 3.137, 3.587, 3.925 The bed seem really uneven and I can see the bend in it. The knobs aren't too tight and even. Any help would be appreciated.

6:40 is my WORST NIGHTMARE with 3D printing. I freaked out last night when my nozzle hit a bump and moved 1/16'th of an inch up... Nice to know that it's not fatal. That said, the Creality guys recommend you start a print, and adjust the offset to 0 (clicking the button a billion times) and then perform the leveling starting with the nozzle WAY off the plate. Then lower it slowly. Here's the link I saw it in: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLl_iaSVsN2Yo6c.html. That does seem pretty hacky. The other option is for your 3D printer to attempt suicide like what happened to you though.

Really helpful thank you very very much 😊

To me the gauge is the same as paper. Your still sliding it under checking for resistance. The one thing that might be better is that you know the exact distance. I still use paper and don’t use any offset which takes a step out. So it’s really just a preference I think.

My thanks too Kris, you might have some Swedish blood in you, spelling Cris with a K? Well we both know that you need to know that your efforts are helping and you won’t know unless I remind you properly 😊 I learned much more about the use of the touch controls and menu features this time, thank you 🙏🏻 Naturally I am one of those people who always seem to run headlong into issues. I thought that the printer was not so intimidating after seeing how open it is with little hidden, yet… Wonder if you have any advice? My current issue is that my prints don’t actually start! I tried to upgrade the Firmware and managed to level the bed, yet when up to temp the printer goes down to start on the bed and stops, the process on the screen continues and within seconds it says it’s finished? I basically downloaded the last Firmware from Creality and changed the name as instructed, before loading it onto the m-card. I then started the printer with the card already in. Well, maybe it could be that the firmware is not replaced? I followed your video for this process too. Yet did not download the extra software you used to check it. What should I do? I have had this printer for a year now and only managed to print a tiny boat a long time ago! Friends keep buying me more PLA as presents ha ha HELP! 😂

Always like your videos, can u do some about squaring the frame or skew options for this ender 5 plus? Would be very helpful, I like to print woodworking items as square as possible, cheers!!

Thank you 😊😊

I don't understand. My old E5+ was fine. This new one refuses to "save" the home position. Everytime I aux level, back out, and go back into aux level, it's like it erases what I did on the previous aux level. Like, it's not rewriting Z-Home whenever I back out. They really need to just add a "Zero Z" function/button on every leveling screen.

i just got mine 5 days ago, and while we have the same printer, mine does not have the auto level on off feature. it has the BL touch which looks a little different than yours. is there a reason for this? is that a feature they removed or did away with in later revisions of the software? i used a post it note but my numbers came out all over the place. the right side of the bed goes between -2.900 to -4.337, whereas the left side goes from 0.824 to -1.462.

Did someone else noticed the center where the printer is measuring on 9:06 is not the same as the center on 12:30 and then on 14:40? Thanks Kris.

Before measuring the gantry level, snug down all 4 spring loaded bed adjusters, then open them all up one turn.

If I'm doing this process with a textured PEI bed, should I expect the same amount of uniformity across the auto-leveling process? I've manually leveled time and time again and cannot got anywhere close to the ".0xx" measurements.

What if your using a laptop with creality slicer for the test print? I ask because I cannot do the fine tuning adjustment that was shown in the video. I have options on the slicer but it seems like I'm limited to how much I can adjust the z setting.

how can i put your test file on sd card with cura. i thought i did it and it shows on pc if i go to sd card but when i put it in the printer it does not show

When I hit the "Z Home" button, it doesn't do what yours is doing.. it just moved the bed up and down and touches the BL touch probe a few times, then stops and is at the same spot it was before I adjusted it up and down. Ever seen this?

Thanks. Was looking for something like this.

I did everything thing in the vid but my outcomes are really different. My corners (2,3,4 and 5) are 5.4mm, -4.9mm, 9mm, 3.1mm. If i do the leveling with a paper everything seems fine. When i try to print something it just comes out as spaghetti. I hope someone can help me

So when the z offset is adjusted while the print is in progress, that setting is always automatically remembered for the next print?

Thanks!

HOW are you getting the z-axis compensation adjustment to go up or down by 0.01mm with each press. Mine only has the resolution of 0.1mm with every press and sometimes it feels like i need it in the middle. Is this a firmware thing? If so can you possibly link which firmware you are using as the latest one from Creality doesn't seem to work properly, especially with the silent board.

My z adjustment during print changes the 0.1 not the 0.01 place. How can I fix/change this? its an Ender5Plus running Ver 1.70.3 BL with the creatlity silent board 2.2.1. I was reflashing my printer due to nozzle/hotend replacement issues when it started. Before I messed with it, the 0.01 place was adjusted. It is impossible to get a good level @ the 0.1 place. Help!

Thanks Kris, your video demonstrates my frustration every time I want to print something. Are there sub ~$1000 printers out there on the market you don't have to spend equal time messing with and printing?

After "billions" of leveling attempts I ended up with pretty much the same process. Except for the manual leveling I use the bed visualizer in Octoprint, and when adjusting the z-offset while printing, I restart the print job after changing the value. It feels to me that the value isn't immediately applied.

At 6:58 the screen for leveling mode. Even when my printer is at home its never zeroed. Do I do these steps. Then delete bin file to refresh . Then do these steps again

Please help. Neither my ender 3 or ender 5 are working. They both worked fine for a few weeks but then took a shit and only print birds nests if they print anything at all. I have done everything. New nozzles, new tubes, new beds, leveling a million times, new filament, checked the extruder for cracking, tightened and loosened the spring. I'm about to toss them out the window. If I could return them I would. Please help.

Great video, big help! Thanks

after installing my silent mtoherboard best tutorial. if you would be in charge of crealitsy and also the instructions ouh man i wonder what kind of awesome printer people would get. keep up the good work i started watching not too long ago and its so awesome

This is a fantastic advertisement for Resin printers. lol Seriously, I'd thought about getting one of these for printing large volume objects, but at this point I think I'm going to look at a large volume resin printer.

Thank you so much for putting this out there. I purchased my printer brand new in May 2023, and I haven't been able to get it working until today. This was super helpful in getting me going, as was your test print. I am wondering about something, is it just me, or does the Ender-5 Plus have a file name length limitation. When I first loaded your file, I couldn't find it. Then I renamed it to Test Pattern and it worked fine. The other question I have is does Creality not recognize .STL files? I seem to have to convert files to .gcode to be able to print them. Is that for all Creality printers? The Ender-5 Plus only? Or am I doing something wrong?

7:20 so is there some emergency stop to stop the bed crushing into the nozzle? Or how do you actually stop the machine from crashing even further?

I am on my 19th attempt trying to manually level the bed but each time I got back and click aux leveling, I have to tighten everything up again.

I dont like this design and rollers. The Y direction has to move the weight of the bar with everything mounted to it.

Kris - you are the bomb! Thanks for all you do! Have you ever investigated the Ender Extender for the 5 Plus? Any thoughts on doing a video on the upgrade for the 5 Plus?

My numbers are 0.1 to 0.2 for the outside. Should i redo my leveling process

Thank you for this, it helped alot. Do you have any suggestions for upgrading motherboard and screen to something else? Not too happy with the creality hardware/software on this particular model

Couldn't enjoy my E5+ came with an faulty motherboard, staying stuck on boot screen, need to wait for answer from Creality, I don't want to upgrade to SKR motherboard so quick without even trying original E5+

I don't show the auto-leveling sliding tab in my options - anyone else missing that?

I have a neptune 2 3d printer a buddy gave me its okay works good ish kind abuggy as in when i set temp in the software and i hit print the temp goes down to a different temp and i have to go to the printer and set it by hand. does this printer have that issue?

Hey mate I just bought mine and the auto leveling dosnt show up on my screen

How come when you did the auto home to start leveling, your axis settings are all zero? My numbers are always weird. Like I'll have a 1.3 then .3 on another axis.

What if you’re getting 16 measurements that are wildly opposite of being even close to one another??

I have the Insanity Automation FW flashed, you dont have to keep whacking the Z offset button as you can choose what size increments to use

205 60 has been my goto f9r a while. wished I had this video when I got my ender 5 plus.ost of what you did I had to figure out on my own/watch and read a bunch.

Weird, mine doesn't have the auto-leveling button.

what size is the gauge used, I watched twice but couldnt hear the size

sorry for my english: after 1 correct print.. i start new and need levelling again... 2 day to try to levelling with paper or filer gauge.... cant print.. colision nozzel etc etc ... need to levelling all the time ?

Can someone help? I do not have auto leveling menu option on my screen. Why?