Drafting Bespoke Trousers | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London

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Kirby Allison

Kirby Allison

Күн бұрын

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After taking Kirby's measurements and watching legendary tailor Terry Haste draft Kirby's jacket pattern, the next step in creating a bespoke suit is to draft the trousers. In today's video, talented trouser cutter Suyamba Kumaresan walks us through the process of designing and drafting the various elements that make up the bespoke trousers.
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#tailoring #bespokesuits #kirbyallison
VIDEOS WITH KENT & HASTE
Fabric Cutting | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London • Fabric Cutting | Doubl...
Drafting Bespoke Trousers | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London • Drafting Bespoke Trous...
Drafting A Bespoke Suit Jacket | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London • Drafting A Bespoke Sui...
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Drafting A Bespoke Suit Jacket | With Kent & Haste
00:00 Introduction
00:26 Beginning drafting
01:41 Drafting for the individual
03:00 center line
04:00 write the details
06:15 the topside comes together
07:40 the extra allowance
08:19 Cutting the topside out
09:21 starting the underside
11:19 the artistry of drafting
12:26 The seat angle
13:35 Allowance for darts and pleats
15:00 underside dart
15:44 Cutting it out
17:01 the 2 patterns
17:23 what's next?
Get in touch with Kent & Haste:
www.kenthaste.co.uk/
@kenthastelachter
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INSTAGRAM / kirbyallison

Пікірлер: 449
@patrickdickson4671
@patrickdickson4671 4 күн бұрын
Am I the only one hypnotized by Suyamba Kumaresan. It’s so cool how she explains all this technical stuff. And that hair, just lovely.
@QuiickScopeThis
@QuiickScopeThis Жыл бұрын
She really just incredible in her clarity of explanation but also she's very natural 'on camera'. Definitely would love to see plenty more content with her in the future.
@rcmast3rtract0rking
@rcmast3rtract0rking Жыл бұрын
I agree
@aitornavarro6597
@aitornavarro6597 Жыл бұрын
I think I know what you're referring to with "natural on camera" I agree 😉
@stephen2634
@stephen2634 Жыл бұрын
I would challenge any of the people to draft a pair of pants based on her explanation . Give me a break? They look like my grand father’s trousers. First of all you draft the front , and the back on top of it , cause there is a relationship between the two . It’s called balance . What she made is a rough block that would get fitted to the customer. Any donkey can do that. Let’s see her draft a pant that had to be correct 98% with out any fittings. By the way the double pleat are the easiest pant to draft. Why ? The front has no shape. How convenient for the old man to pick it.
@bruz5154
@bruz5154 9 ай бұрын
@@aitornavarro6597 freak behaviour
@GeorgeZimmermen
@GeorgeZimmermen 7 ай бұрын
I bet you would……
@mancbiker17
@mancbiker17 Ай бұрын
I could watch this young lady all day. She's so good at explaining the details and has a very soothing voice 🥰
@KristineMaitland
@KristineMaitland 16 күн бұрын
Now this, darlings, is a complement. 😊
@OngoGablogian185
@OngoGablogian185 Жыл бұрын
Suyamba's rise has been meteoric, lol. She's a fan favourite already. We all love her.
@Chiefqueef-
@Chiefqueef- Жыл бұрын
This woman is a stunner.
@BriarLeaf00
@BriarLeaf00 Жыл бұрын
Don't usually expect to see an incredibly beautiful woman just browsing for something to sleep to.
@CheckmichUnleashed
@CheckmichUnleashed 10 ай бұрын
She is talking normaly and makes u sleepy, wonderful😇
@1220LOUIE
@1220LOUIE 7 ай бұрын
Yes she is
@iknowthisone6844
@iknowthisone6844 5 ай бұрын
its a human being, be nice
@andrefilipe9080
@andrefilipe9080 Ай бұрын
@@iknowthisone6844 Isn't complimenting her, being nice?
@richtonge2736
@richtonge2736 Жыл бұрын
Hearing John and Terry in the background is brilliant. Squabbling like an old married couple. I'd love to know who John thinks is very fussy.. 3 times. My favourite series so far with Texas Traditions a close 2nd
@kristymcmillan7481
@kristymcmillan7481 Жыл бұрын
Yes, I really, really want o know who’s so fussy! That aside this a fabulous video!
@shotty1673
@shotty1673 Жыл бұрын
Npc
@Bushes1701
@Bushes1701 5 ай бұрын
i was hoping he was talking about Kirby just for the giggles haha
@ahmadtirmzi6143
@ahmadtirmzi6143 Жыл бұрын
Lovely to see Suyamba’s passion for the craft. A master-tailor in the making indeed… Such amazing work from Kirby and his team; fine details like the well timed overlays of the trouser pattern, really showcase the effort and attention-to-detail the team is putting in each video. Such rare content, worthy of watching over and over. Very few KZfaqrs are producing such original work on classic menswear (the only others might be Hugo & Sonya from Sartorial Talks)
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much!
@nigelbarker8726
@nigelbarker8726 Жыл бұрын
Her ability to provide a clear extemporaneous explanation of what she is doing is quite incredible.
@grahamwalton1049
@grahamwalton1049 Жыл бұрын
She is made for TV.
@AN-999
@AN-999 Жыл бұрын
Bet you think you're very wise. What is wrong with just "clear explanation"?! I remember once listening to a linguist - because ever since i found out about the late great Ludwig Wittgenstein i became fascinated with language. So, this linguist was talking about how the average person is intrigued by big words, whereas fellow linguists by words such "on" .. "of", or you should hear Chomsky going philosophical on "wanna", "gonna",.... Sorry if i came off pedantic, or offensive, as i don't know you. but just felt like the long word was so uncalled for. Then again, the weed hit strong, so excuse my drama. Imma unpause the video, get back to the tingles + thc == great sleep (hopefully 🙏🙏🙏🤲🤲🤲🤲)😀😀
@nigelbarker8726
@nigelbarker8726 Жыл бұрын
@@AN-999 perhaps 'off the cuff' then?
@holeefuk413
@holeefuk413 Жыл бұрын
@@AN-999 you're weird
@AN-999
@AN-999 Жыл бұрын
@@holeefuk413 weird is good, no?
@805tmann
@805tmann Жыл бұрын
The ASMR is phenomenal. Also fun fact: Suyamba creates ethically sourced and sustainable scrunchies and pillows from cloth scraps which is awesome!
@m.saavedramena9533
@m.saavedramena9533 Жыл бұрын
Where can I find them? I would love to purchase something that she has created, she's so talented!
@KhanyoMjamba
@KhanyoMjamba Жыл бұрын
Absolute GOLD. She is clear, pretty, professional and her ASMR enunciation is top notch.
@joestone7662
@joestone7662 Жыл бұрын
Hearing Mr Kent and Haste squabbling in the background is too funny
@kmax1223
@kmax1223 Жыл бұрын
He is fussy!
@NISSANZ33
@NISSANZ33 Жыл бұрын
@@kmax1223 i chuckled to think they’re talking about Kirby 😂
@mach5jeep
@mach5jeep 5 ай бұрын
Like an old married couple
@OKaysional
@OKaysional Ай бұрын
felt like it was on a loop. just hearing "he IS fussy" 3 times in a row in identical cadence lmao
@Balloonbot
@Balloonbot 29 күн бұрын
​@@OKaysional Yeah i think they had a recording for general ambience and just looped it on top of this footage
@theniceneighbor
@theniceneighbor Жыл бұрын
I could watch this for days. Clothes, a lovely lady, and ASMR is like a trio of all of my favorites in one video.
@juliemcleod9869
@juliemcleod9869 Жыл бұрын
It is very ASMR!
@RamblingVlogger
@RamblingVlogger Жыл бұрын
I’m so happy someone is keeping traditions alive and helping to preserve the craftsmanship of the days past.
@FCVP71
@FCVP71 Жыл бұрын
It's just because of the quotas. Migrant, female, I think even lesbian. Nowadays, you can only show such a workforce to be sufficiently PC...
@Legitballin
@Legitballin Жыл бұрын
@@FCVP71 Oof. This is possibly the coldest take I have ever seen. I feel embarrassed for you. Take a hike, pal.
@PeterRatcliffe
@PeterRatcliffe Жыл бұрын
This girl should have her own show! Absolute star
@peterxyz3541
@peterxyz3541 Ай бұрын
I can listen to her talk for hours.
@TheNutriarat
@TheNutriarat Жыл бұрын
Suyamba is finer than the trousers she is drafting. Thanks Kirby. Great video, as always.
@DanRobards
@DanRobards Жыл бұрын
Agreed!
@glenngray6859
@glenngray6859 Жыл бұрын
Yes she is.
@TheGodKingZul
@TheGodKingZul 11 ай бұрын
ONG
@Ibnthaman82
@Ibnthaman82 Ай бұрын
Suyamba is beautiful, intuitive and informative. Need more content of her!
@Dhal-SimMusic
@Dhal-SimMusic Жыл бұрын
Around 7:30 hearing John in the background saying 'he is fussy!!' haha and again at 9:58
@rustybarrel516
@rustybarrel516 Жыл бұрын
6:50 as well. Is that background audio on a loop?
@paulcarlsen4088
@paulcarlsen4088 Жыл бұрын
That’s a great animation of what she was drawing on the pattern. Thank you for the videos of the bespoke process!
@Yasoshly
@Yasoshly 10 ай бұрын
She is very knowledgeable in her craft and the whole video passed by so quick and there wasn't a single pause or 'you know' 'uhm' 'like' from her. Considering her age being very young, she explained everything like a 20 year experienced artisan and most importantly while doing the job.
@asmrasmr6229
@asmrasmr6229 Жыл бұрын
Kirby's channel has so much ASMR potential
@earl-grey-milk-tea
@earl-grey-milk-tea Жыл бұрын
1) Suyamba's hair is fantastic but also she's an excellent presenter 2) keep the pattern drafting & fitting videos coming! they're so helpful for those of us who sew
@MANVWI
@MANVWI 2 күн бұрын
The ASMR community doesn't even know about the greatest asmr video of all time..... I feel like I found a hidden treasure in this video,
@Plateaudweller
@Plateaudweller Жыл бұрын
As a craftsman there is something really special watching and listening to an experienced craftsman/woman of a different trade plying their trade. Its something to do with the easy you only get from years of experience.
@willhunt6897
@willhunt6897 Ай бұрын
I hope Suyamba knows how much she is admired. Beautiful, intelligent and a divine voice 🙏
@Poppyblockhead
@Poppyblockhead Ай бұрын
Oh she knows. She knows exactly what she’s doing.
@Bourne1984
@Bourne1984 6 ай бұрын
What a talent. And her voice, so nice.
@XiphosGladius
@XiphosGladius 4 ай бұрын
She is absolutely gorgeous. ❤
@CaptainWillard830
@CaptainWillard830 28 күн бұрын
Don’t be a simp
@tennesseegregario7253
@tennesseegregario7253 28 күн бұрын
@@CaptainWillard830 Not all men are betas. Don't chastise the ol boy for having testosterone. I happen to agree with him, as do at least 54 others.
@CaptainWillard830
@CaptainWillard830 27 күн бұрын
@@Francois176 for from it, Sport. Since age 13, I’ve been very good at inspiring the opposite sex to open wide 😉
@donlouthe1st118
@donlouthe1st118 26 күн бұрын
@@CaptainWillard830 paying doesn't count champ champ haha
@CaptainWillard830
@CaptainWillard830 26 күн бұрын
@@donlouthe1st118 never had to pay for poontang. Ask your mom. She wasn’t half bad by the way, son
@ianwalls4976
@ianwalls4976 Жыл бұрын
It's magnificent to watch a true artist that has a passion for the outstanding work that's she puts into drafting. Thankyou kirby for the amazing episode 👏
@moniquewilson4179
@moniquewilson4179 Жыл бұрын
This might just be my favorite series. Sooooooo packed with knowledge, skill, and craft (& ASMR!).
@josephpatterson4283
@josephpatterson4283 Жыл бұрын
Having never owned a bespoke suit, and probably never will, I am duly impressed with the craftsmanship that goes into making one and thanks for bringing this to us.
@keithgoodson9697
@keithgoodson9697 Жыл бұрын
I love the way these videos are structured and so educational..The dedication to their craft is awe inspiring..I watch these videos over and over and fall asleep 😴 to them. Thank-you Kirby.
@adamgable4346
@adamgable4346 Жыл бұрын
Truly an art, how she visualizes everything ahead of time in her head is amazing
@walterroberts2861
@walterroberts2861 Жыл бұрын
Her Understanding On This Method; And Her Wisdom and Knowledge Toward Its Precision Is Impeccable.
@sauceploxx4565
@sauceploxx4565 Жыл бұрын
Love seeing the pattern development phase of this craft! After watching a korean tailor do this, I'm so glad to see and hear this process first hand.
@programmerx8455
@programmerx8455 Жыл бұрын
Finally!! Been waiting for the continuation of this series, Good work Kirby! Top notch video quality!
@jtb52
@jtb52 Жыл бұрын
Excellent get this lady a channel
@gBORG69_
@gBORG69_ Жыл бұрын
I have been waiting for this. These three are incredibly talented. Looking forward to the first fitting video.
@dialedindetail5899
@dialedindetail5899 Жыл бұрын
Fantastic. Could watch a true artist like Suyamba work all day and her running explanation is fascinating. Well done. So thrilled you brought this amazing shop into the lime light
@BingusWingus
@BingusWingus Жыл бұрын
I love the build-up for the suit in this series Kirby; I’m both learning much from it, and am foaming at the mouth to see the result at the end 😊 great job!
@graemeherrington6673
@graemeherrington6673 Жыл бұрын
Kirby, fabulous stuff. It really gets into the heart of what makes London different.
@jamesleung8679
@jamesleung8679 Жыл бұрын
She's got a good voice, very soothing.
@davidhall8049
@davidhall8049 2 ай бұрын
Great video it’s amazing how precise everything is no room for mistakes thank you all involved the young lady is wonderful
@cptj4xsparrow904
@cptj4xsparrow904 Жыл бұрын
I am so happy to see this Video. Thank you for the amazing work Kirby ❤️
@fasteddierules8130
@fasteddierules8130 25 күн бұрын
Big take away message from this... "he IS fussy!" So glad we cleared that up 😂. Seriously fascinating and relaxing video.
@DJFrizzBizz
@DJFrizzBizz Жыл бұрын
Please keep more videos like these coming. Thank you very much!
@danp8950
@danp8950 Жыл бұрын
Beautiful to watch. So talented.
@marknewman3360
@marknewman3360 4 ай бұрын
What a great tutorial. she has a greet approach.
@richarddr1234
@richarddr1234 Жыл бұрын
This is all very fascinating. To see it all translated into a graphic so we can see exactly what was being drawn. I can see a full course on pattern drafting being taught this way.
@KatelynnLynn
@KatelynnLynn Жыл бұрын
Really love the lean into ASMR on this one, thank you for this!!
@kowanmcgarry
@kowanmcgarry Жыл бұрын
One of the best videos Kirby Allison has on his channel.
@shaynesparkes8740
@shaynesparkes8740 6 ай бұрын
👏 I love watching these video and Suyamba skills are exemplary… working with those two master craftsmen has got to be rewarding… all the knowledge-skill and clientele. She a favourite of mine now. Well done 👍
@jon8304
@jon8304 Жыл бұрын
A very knowledgeable and skillful tailor. Great presence on camera as well. She no doubt has a bright and fruitful career ahead of her.
@MichaelOssen
@MichaelOssen Жыл бұрын
So funny, I actually decided to rewatch the original Kent Haste fitting last night. How FITTING!
@desmond1382
@desmond1382 Жыл бұрын
This lecture was must needed .
@dawnprincess1878
@dawnprincess1878 Жыл бұрын
Kirby, I am a lay sewist and I have learned tips from their videos. Thank you!
@joekennedy3625
@joekennedy3625 Ай бұрын
She is brilliant!
@MaxBeaulieu
@MaxBeaulieu 8 ай бұрын
Amazing to see a master at work!
@walterroberts2861
@walterroberts2861 Жыл бұрын
"Thanks A lot; Sir Kirby Allison; For Inviting Us!!!!"
@rcmast3rtract0rking
@rcmast3rtract0rking Жыл бұрын
This is pure bliss for my ears
@alanbrooke144
@alanbrooke144 Жыл бұрын
The camera work and editing is really well done.
@Reda2k23
@Reda2k23 5 ай бұрын
I actually learned a lot from her explanations. Amazing talent!
@heaton5228
@heaton5228 Жыл бұрын
She’s amazing true natural with the camera thank you for this episode ❤
@walterroberts2861
@walterroberts2861 Жыл бұрын
And Then Present Them; Throughout; In A Professional Portfolio; With Your Designers and Those Whom Speck; The Garments; This Is Such A Great Level Of Lessons; And Also Professionalism;
@gusseisern1151
@gusseisern1151 Жыл бұрын
beautiful hair
@1220LOUIE
@1220LOUIE 7 ай бұрын
I can watch her all day
@jacobsiegfried1498
@jacobsiegfried1498 Жыл бұрын
She is absolutely stunning
@mojo6691
@mojo6691 3 ай бұрын
Everything about her is so mesmerizing 💘. Her voice and mannerisms are soft and relaxing 😌.
@benwing19877
@benwing19877 Жыл бұрын
Been waiting for this!!!
@Maitreya0208
@Maitreya0208 26 күн бұрын
Excellant, informative video. Ms. Kumaresan is a vision at work.
@princemarkokibe7661
@princemarkokibe7661 Жыл бұрын
Wow, that intro blew me away. Well made.
@user-lo8lw6ws5r
@user-lo8lw6ws5r Жыл бұрын
Really loving this little series, informative, relaxing, fascinating to watch the craft, there are some amazing videos on KZfaq on the whole tailoring process but this has raised the bar, only downside is having to wait for the next installment lol
@headgroundsman1650
@headgroundsman1650 Жыл бұрын
the confident cutting strokes of the master craftsperson......
@chrisv.s.3403
@chrisv.s.3403 Жыл бұрын
You've hit a homerun Kirby. Suyamba 🔥 + talented!
@lizziehoodfleming
@lizziehoodfleming Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video!!!!
@ZaydDepaor
@ZaydDepaor Жыл бұрын
This is very professional but complicated, the quick way...is to get your client to lie down on the fabric, trace around him with chalk, so you have a full man silhouette, then fold it over so you have two the same when you cut it out, stitch them together or staple them together or glue them if you can't sew well, then cut in half at the waist for the trousers and jacket, then it is all done, but it wont look as neat. Just remember to cut the head off the man silhouette, otherwise you will have a teddy bear ready to be stuffed rather than a suit.
@imightbewrong_
@imightbewrong_ Жыл бұрын
Probably one of my favourite comments for quite some time.
@ZaydDepaor
@ZaydDepaor Жыл бұрын
@@imightbewrong_ I'm glad someone appreciated it 😄
@alphonso0077
@alphonso0077 Жыл бұрын
Nothing like watching professionals doing their work.
@dkelly413
@dkelly413 Жыл бұрын
Quality content as always
@stevekelly8349
@stevekelly8349 9 күн бұрын
Fascinating to watch and listen to thank you young lady thank you ❤
@gwr4fun
@gwr4fun Жыл бұрын
I'm bad with names, my bad, but the lady as a cutter is a real professional and a lovely presence too in the shop.
@cianog
@cianog Жыл бұрын
Highly skilled work👍
@user-ql4ud9zr7m
@user-ql4ud9zr7m 10 ай бұрын
What’s a beautiful voice this lady has
@adamharita206
@adamharita206 Ай бұрын
Suyamba has a beautiful voice and accent
@Mrmannyguy
@Mrmannyguy Жыл бұрын
I admire her skills
@viarnay
@viarnay 6 ай бұрын
Nice ASMR session, thanks...😊
@shindra86
@shindra86 Жыл бұрын
Great video!
@jsmithgate
@jsmithgate Жыл бұрын
What a skilled and beautiful woman. I couldn't take my eyes off her . Never would I have guessed her profession in a thousand years. Shame on me I will never judge a book by its cover again. 🙂
@scottfarley3644
@scottfarley3644 Жыл бұрын
So much Talent. I hope they keep featuring her.
@chrisholt7561
@chrisholt7561 Жыл бұрын
She got the word "established" in there in the first minute...
@indianasquatchunters
@indianasquatchunters Жыл бұрын
Ah do we have a fellow unintentional asmr fan here? A man of fine tastes and culture I see
@chrisholt7561
@chrisholt7561 Жыл бұрын
@@indianasquatchunters Thank you! I am the proud owner of several TM Lewin shirts from the London shop in the video you allude to. Shirts only, as my homeland defence budget can't afford to send my navy to war.
@talltrini10
@talltrini10 Жыл бұрын
@@chrisholt7561 bravo, good sir!
@wealthessential4515
@wealthessential4515 Жыл бұрын
Let’s not sit here and act like she not drop dead beautiful 😍
@robsonandrade9149
@robsonandrade9149 Жыл бұрын
Que trabalho fantástico!
@Lanark83
@Lanark83 Жыл бұрын
Fabulous. Someone needs to set Suyamba her up in her own store.
@Bogdankhromov
@Bogdankhromov 10 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@MichaelE.Douroux
@MichaelE.Douroux Жыл бұрын
Excellent editing and music.
@mechminded2207
@mechminded2207 26 күн бұрын
I used to audit textile-based factories, and the level of skill in the industry was always impressive. Sculpting a form-fitting product from flat patterns is an art, and while most of mass production is via digital patterns, it still predominantly starts with hand drafting. I recall one customer held is paper patterns for every bespoke product it had ever made.
@mattiasx4623
@mattiasx4623 Жыл бұрын
Very informative.
@berticusmaximus8381
@berticusmaximus8381 3 ай бұрын
Whoah. Serious ASMR going on here. Real ASMR, not the garbage stuff. And what a professional. She knows her craft well.
@i.o.3563
@i.o.3563 Жыл бұрын
What a gorgeous lady! Such a nice accent, pure joy to listen, and watch, to be completely honest.
@douglasb5046
@douglasb5046 29 күн бұрын
RP accent.
@bespokefashion5259
@bespokefashion5259 Жыл бұрын
Very nice work
@kevindhaussy3042
@kevindhaussy3042 Жыл бұрын
She has a really good soothing voice 😍
@Ukedc259
@Ukedc259 Жыл бұрын
Thank the lord! It’s finally here!
@DecemberNames
@DecemberNames Жыл бұрын
I just watched your video and I absolutely loved it! I found your presentation to be incredibly informative and engaging. You did a great job of breaking down complex concepts into easy-to-understand terms. I also appreciated the humor and personal anecdotes that you sprinkled throughout the video. It made the content more relatable and enjoyable. You're one of the few KZfaqrs who I can consistently count on to deliver high-quality content. Keep up the great work! "I outsourced this feedback to AI"
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