That's awesome. Very admirable tenacity and impeccable research done here! Even went as far as comparing the displacements of the two engines so as to ensure that the s10 sensor would be undoubtedly able to pick up on that certain frequency in case your old sensor was a tuned sensor and not a mass sensor.

I just wanted to say thank you for making this video. Using this method I was able to pass CA smog and get back on the road with minimal hassle.

Still running great. It's been 10 months without a check engine light

Thank you for sharing your insight and information. Have a code 52 right now and will try this fix. Gotta love people who get gold and complain about production value and back ground noise. Keep doing what you do, kids in the back ground or no kids. Thank you for advise worth gold. If someone can not handle the fact that a dad makes his kids a continual part of his life, then go some where else and figure it out on your own, which most likely will never happen. If you could not figure out how to have children or listen through a bit of back ground noise, this is definitely above your skill set. Thank you for the work around. Very plain simple and easy to follow. Much gratitude.

Thanks.this saved me a lot of money. I did this on Toyota brevis 2001. I coundnt rev.pas 2000rpm. But after this trick,God,this car is running better than a brand new one .thanks soo much. Stay blessed

Yeah this was my first video! I didn't think the kids would be that loud. I make a point to record when my kids are quiet. now. But my kids love to work on things with me and I wouldn't have it any other way! Thanks for the feedback

I finally did this to my 91 this morning and no cel I couldn't be happier only hard part was figuring out what wire was ground thank you so much

Dude! Thank you! When pulling wiring harness to do valve cover gaskets, the knock connector disintegrated on me. Just waiting for the dreaded code 52, now have hope to not have to tear the whole to end apart. Hero!

The sensor is not grounded internally. Typically only temperature sensors are internally grounded. Sensors such as a knock sensor that deal with a lower 5v supply have external grounds.

After doing a little research I'm thinking that more often than not the sensor itself is fine but the pigtail is notorious for going bad. In my case mice chewed it. I happen to have an extra sensor from another engine and am thinking about just doing this mod but with the OEM sensor. These type sensors are piezo crystal and operate within certain frequency range and I'm wondering if all piezo type work in the same range and what they do is "listen" for pinging sonically through the block. I'm wondering which is faster; removing intake and replacing pigtail or getting a drill into tight quarters to drill and tap a new hole? My other concern regarding this mod is I noticed most sensors seem to be centrally located in order to hear all cylinders, some with multiple locations on larger engines, so my fear is that knocking from the opposite cylinders not registering and therefore poor engine performance.

I actually have a Code 52, knock sensor related problem. I did replace the wire with an OEM Toyota wire. It is so much work to replace the knock sensor that I may simply do such a bypass since my smog check was due last month. I gotta find a place to install it where it is not visible, otherwise the smog inspector will not pass the smog test by visual inspection & noticing that the knock sensor is not in its right location. But at least this way I can quickly get my 3vze smoged to get the tags, then later do the actual work & spend the $200 for the OEM Toyota knock sensor.

Going to try this today after about 30K miles of irritating safe mode driving- thinking I will have to sea foam it after the fix if this works. I mounted the 97 s10 KS just above the two bolts of the hook so they would clear but it would be handier to have it higher up. When I dug out the wire harness I found that it was broke off right by where the harness goes inside - so the sensor might have been fine but the break is too deep, and I already had the new one so will try that before having to remove all the throttle body stuff. The wires are very brittle. I also bought a new harness but the plug-in is round whereas the original is square like the video. Need extra wire anyway because the harness won't quite reach. Will report back.

I know mechanics(after seeing this I'm debating calling them technicians) with forty +yrs of experience, that if I were to try to discuss this with them they would give me a look of "duuuuhhh" lol You sir, are a technician and a half!! Wether your in the automotive field professionally or not!!!

No special wires, just standard. I honestly can't remember and I don't have that particular vehicle anymore. Make sure you are tearing into the pigtail harness and not the main harness.

The problem with doing this modification is that the externally mounted knock sensor will not detect detonation inside the engine. The knock sensors are located on the cylinder heads so that when detonation occurs inside the cylinders the engine computer can back off the ignition timing to eliminate the detonation. This is necessary to protect the engine from internal damage as well as to get the best performance, fuel economy and emissions. Doing this modification might seem to be a great easy cheep fix without any downsides and it may work well for some period of time but remember that the engineers who designed the engine put those knock sensors where they did for a reason. If you don't know all the factors that went into the engineers' decision to locate the two sensors where they did then you may be taking unknown risks. There could be undetected detonation going on inside the engine that is slowly hammering away at the pistons and cylinder heads, which can cause premature engine failure. This is why you should never modify anything in a complex, modern engine. Instead leave it the way the manufacturer designed and built it.

I just did this fix to my 1989 4x4 pickup with the 3VZE motor with code 52. No more check engine light and seems to be running much better.

YOU SIR ARE MY NEW FAVORET PERSON!!! I have been dealing with this issue for a month now and your video solved it thank you thank you thank you!!!!

On the sensor side harness, I took the braided wire and unbraided it from the inner signal wire and ran it into a butt connector that went to ground. I took the inner signal wire and ran it to the sensor. I hope that answers your question.

Knock sensor is special designed piezoelectric microphone and sending alltime agly electrical signal from vibrating engine to controller. Engine is solid pice of metal and vibration is everywhere.

OK, update on my 1993 3.0 V6 4runner 4x4 automatic! I successfully relocated my knock sensor to the position called out in this video, to the lift hook BUT, what happened was it didn't work the first time and discovered the brown wire that went into the clip from the harness side was damaged and hanging on by a couple wire strands. I bought a knock sensor pigtail from Toyota for $22, repaired the existing harness clip damage, the pigtail was a little shy in length to the new sensor location so I soldered an extension,about 5 inches, and attached the round male clip suggested down below from Ebay. I clipped in the new pigtail to the harness and attached the 97 chevy S-10 4 banger knock sensor. I had detached the battery earlier to wash out the code 52 and work on the vehicle. And it worked like a charm! No code, and smooth running engine! I did not have to attach a ground cable! I repeat, I did not use a ground! I was curious about Toyotas new pigtail wire for their sensor and I took all the tape off and found that the black wires outside grounding braid was attached to the brown wires outside grounding braid and the brown wire was soldered to its own grounding braid and taped up! The Black wire that lead to the sensor connection end, had about 4 inches of nothing but Black wire going to the clip sensor connection and the blue thicker encasement with the braided wire just ended and folded back unto the wire about 1/2 inch with the black wire exposed leading to the sensor clip all by itself! So the black wire is the sensor wire and the brown wire is the ground that goes nowhere, weird but I have come to the conclusion that the brown wire is already grounded within the harness wire setup itself! Good luck! Toyota pigtail wire harness to the knock sensor is part number 82219-35010 wire sensor www.amazon.com/Novello-Connector-Female-Sockets-NIL-WHCF/dp/B000WPF9WW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1434594718&sr=1-1&keywords=female+deutsch+pin&pebp=1434594739657&perid=1MMPCNDK40G8MVWPN4DN

Oh sorry I forgot to answer that. Off the top of my head I don't remember. I want to say I used a 12 mm (this isn't exact because the sensor has tapered threads) but it was close and threaded in tightly. But double check that by comparing.

Very impressive. Thanks for sharing.

I watched your video, and it is great, but I do not understand where you drilled for the new sensor. Is it on top between the two existing bolt holes or over an existing hole?

That “metal jacket” is a shield cable not just a ground. It’s braided around the main conductor because a knock sensor is piezo sensor. It generates a very slight AC current. This is VERY subject to electrical noise interference. Hence the shielded coaxial cable. Your ECM is not receiving the proper signal from the new sensor because you didn’t use a shielded coaxial connection. It may not be setting a check engine light but it’s likely allowing knock at dangerous levels. It will run great right up until it doesn’t!

I've bought two off eBay with a lifetime warranty for $25

I hate to bug but did you use any special wire for you new ground and connection wire? And when taking apart the knock sensor wire is the shorter brown wire the ground?

Yes, just tap the lifting bracket.

What size tap did you use and where can I get an end piece that will plug into the s-10 knock sensor?

Hey man, I’m having a knock sensor problem and have been having trouble finding the sensor and connections, if you see this can you add a link to where you bought those?

I can't see the sensor you put in,only the ground wire, did you tap that bracket for pulling the engine, and put it there? Or somewhere else??, thank you

I had a similar problem trying to time mine, I had to do it by feel because the timing light put it way off. I eventually recalibrate the TPS and it fixed the problem. I was then able to time it with the light.

wait you have a ground from the wire loom and your putting that to the block ?the sensor is grounded when it gets put into the block whats the other wire do i just rebuilt mine and i found a braided wire in the loom but my sensor has two already do i put the braided to the block

I have a 1993 Toyota 4Runner 3.0 engine. My problem is that I replaced the engine Heads along with all other parts like the timing belt. Now I am having a problem setting the timing. I have double checked all marks. The engine starts fine but when I set it at 10% before top dead center, the engine has no power. I tried relocating the Knock Sensor, but still no power. Can someone help with this.

You have the after pictures or video of what you did . Have fighting this code on my sons truck bought a Kragen parts knock sensor replaced the pigtail from Toyota still same Issue. You mentioned "drilled a hole just above the two existing mounting holes, got a tap that was close to that particular thread (it wasn't exact), and threaded it into that hole." kind of understand that part .Were you get the knock sensor for the s10 dealer or autoparts store ?

Question; How did you tie in the new wires to the old wires in the sensor side of the clip.Each set has braided wires outside both black and brown original wire package. Did you tie both braided and cased wire in the black ground side, to the new single wire. And did you do the same for the brown side that leads to the new chevy sensor? blend both braided and cased wire together to the single wire that will hold the sensor connector?

Not usually, it will just throw a code and you will lose efficiency

Can the knock sensors stop the car from running

Why did you use the S10 sensor instead of the OEM One?

Worked great ! Thank you

Yes just through the bracket

Travis. Where did you buy Chevy S10 4cyl knock sensor?

Hello Travis, did you drill a hole on the lifting bracket itself or the block?

buenas a todos tengo un problema con el cable del sensor knock de mi v6 3vze el tiene una linea y un forro que tiene alanbre pero ese forro esta entre cortado segun es un neg que va a morir en nada como lo rreparo

I have suzuki alto 2002 and knock sensor light on off. And engine making knocking like tarrr tarrr. I have changed 7 knock sensor but still that problem. And the wiring till computer is ok

Got it! Thank you.

HI I JUST CAN NOT SEE THE KNOCK SENSOR WHERE DI YOU PLACED ????

What kind of wire did you use

This was a 94 Toyota 4 runner 3.0

What car year and model is this your working on

Any way you can go into farther depth I tried it and didn't work idk if I did anything wrong

hi could you please tellme the color of the wire that goes on the sensor and the color that goes to the ground tank you

can the knock senser cause the gauges to not work and the absence light to be on?

I am about to do this on my 95 4runner and was wondering how deep you drilled the hole for the knock sensor to thread into?

How's the truck running? I'm thinking about doing this..

Unfortunately I do not have the vehicle anymore to further explain

Really hard to hear over your kids in background. I would have loved to even had you talk louder. Your reviews were really good.

i have 04 cadillac srx v8 i dnt find no videos for the knock senor i need help locating it if anyone can plz help

This is the pin style that I used. It is a deutsch connector pin. Really, whatever your local parts store can find to stick onto it will work. There is supposed to be a stock connector for it by my parts place was unable to find the correct one. www.amazon.com/Novello-Connector-Female-Sockets-NIL-WHCF/dp/B000WPF9WW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1434594718&sr=1-1&keywords=female+deutsch+pin&pebp=1434594739657&perid=1MMPCNDK40G8MVWPN4DN

Also I didn't tap the hook I went to ace and got a bolt for 65¢

Knock sensor requires no second grounding as the sensor attached to the block is the ground to the battery.

I don't have the vehicle anymore and I am not 100% sure. Check the sensor harness that goes under the intake and it should have a braided ground shield around the outside. Whichever wire connects to that shielding is the ground.

How do you access the connector wire to connect a new sensor?

I'm not clear on where you positioned the new knock sensor. Did you put it under the plug on that bracket? Thank you for relying !

very good vido man

what kind of car or truck, what year?

Hey this didnt work for me. im wondering which wire you used for the ground? the black one or the brown one? i used black for ground and brown for power

this works great!!! I did mine on the side, anyone says it wont work please tell me? how is it you can hear sound 1200-miles away on a thin piece of wire and this set up is only 2ft away at best from were it should be, will not work? sounds travels threw metal I say it does work.

What liter is the engine?

The S10 sensor is only about $15 and does the job!

I can see this being an emergency fix but not a cure. After 30+ years I say fix it right the first time. When that "backyard engineering" repair decides to let go the results could be disastrous.

muchas gracias amigo resolvi mi gran problema

Any auto parts store will have one

work on a 1MZ-FE??

also my heater control panel lights are flashing all at the same time.

do you have the part number travis chisty

how do u do it for a 1996 Nissan quest

Just drill all the way through it.