I like the video, Andy. You speak with honesty and truth. The trick is gonna help a lot of people out there, man.

Hello there! You’re the man from the A1 parts videos, I’ve enjoyed the help you’ve shared from some of those episodes. I recently bought a 1996 Nissan Quest w/3.0 engine. I’m suffering from a terrible low speed bog and bad gas mileage. My mechanic scanned it today and found a KS code. I plan to do this to mine and pray that it helps with my symptoms. Great video, thank you!

Thanks Andy! I get a P0325 that comes back every once and a while so i think i may do this mod, even though I've had the whole intake apart before. Never hurts to do it the right way, i guess we'll see if i'm ready to waist a weekend or just a few hours coming up. Thanks again, cheers

You can also do. A little reach around and break off the original switch, and reuse it in new location. No cutting or splicing.

Just got a 2000 Pathfinder for free from a relative. I've been slowly doing work and saving various videos. This one will come in handy as I imagine I'd prefer not to destroy half the car to get a light turned off. I swear half a car's sensors are only there to turn on the CEL.

Hi. I've got an unmodified 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 164,000 miles, 3.3L V6, 5 speed automatic transmission. Owned by an elderly couple...treated well. Runs smoothly. 10w-30 oil/filter is new and full. Same with transmission fluid. When it's first started it knocks or loudly rattles for 3 seconds. Then it stops. Once warm it will only do the startup rattle about 50% of the time. Exact same noise returns from about 1,800 to 3,200 RPM and then stops. Also, the noise quiets and sometimes disappears between 1,800 - 3,200 RPM if I let off of the accelerator and coast. It also will not do it sometimes if I'm going up a steep hill slowly with the RPMs are in that midrange, under the hill's load. The noise increases in speed and loudness with increasing RPMs. It sounds like 1 or maybe 2 cylinders of the 6, to me. The main bearings and rod bearings were changed. Looked good, some rod bearing wear on a couple but not serious. No rod or crank shaft slop was noted before or after replacement. Made no difference in the noise. The crank was NOT sanded/polished. It throws a P1400 code for EGRC Solenoid Valve error. I don't notice any idling or power issues though. It returns within a few minutes after clearing the code. Could this cause a knocking noise at certain times like I have? It runs smooth cold and hot. I've narrowed it down to 5 things based on its part time occurrence: 1. Flex plate? 2. Timing belt tensioner failing (unknown when last changed)? 3. Torque converter? 4. Hydraulic lifters? 5. EGRC Solenoid Valve? I have two short videos I recorded it and can share if you want to hear it. Thanks!

My 2000 Pathfinder LE has to be started at least 2 times for it to stay running, drags with acceleration, and pretty much burns through gas. I took it to a shop and the only codes are the knock sensors. Hopefully this will fix or help it!

Mr plow does it again.... The chop shop in action ;)

I have a 2011 pathfinder with 4.0 do you know the locations of its knock sensors?

great video, what size was the new longer bolt to secure the sensor?

Unfortunately by relocating the knock sensor on top, it doesn't work correctly. It needs to be on the block itself. I know this because I've done this exact same thing. I'm currently trying to figure out where an easier spots on the block. No luck so far. I'll probably have to just put in where it belongs. Great video though. Thanks

Hey man thanks for the video! Can you tell me if you haven’t had any issues with this hack? Where did you buy the harness? Any link? I bought one sensor but it came with the wrong harness.

Dear friend, I am from Japan, I subscribed to your channel👍482, thank you very much for sharing🙇‍♀️

Does this actually work and why does the tile say to not do this hack?

I have the same problem on my 2000 Xterra. Same code. BUT, also have loud knocking sound from engine. One day fine, next day knocking with code. Could relocating the knock sensor with a new one stop the knocking? Everybody is telling me the engine is shot?? Sure hope not! Only 167,000 miles! HELP?

My customer is not willing to pay for the labor cost but needs to pass emission on his 96 pathfinder. I’ll definitely talk to him about this hack he has no other choice but to give it a go lmao 😂

Hello how are you? I'm from Brazil and I have a 92 year pathfinder, my car is without this sensor, they say the right place is the collector but in this place you put it doesn't change anything? since the manual says below? my car is with idle speed oscillating and some popping in the collector, is this my problem? since I changed everything I could?

The wire wrapping sround the white one is the ground .

I’m going through this right now with my 2002 Nissan Xterra with 120,000 miles. It recently threw a knock sensor code. It was running fine now it’s got a flashing check engine light any misfire and I have been told by everybody on the Facebook forums that something else is causing the misfire. It’s not my knock sensor. Either way, it doesn’t really matter at this point because the truck is already at the shop. God knows what the repair bills going to cost. I will find out on Friday fuck my life.

Some cars are just not worth the effort. Nice job beating the system!

Nice! Hey if it gets you by then it works! I've done hacks that are way worse than this lol

Bought a 99 Pathfinder this year and it has this done to it already. But it has 2 wires coming from it. The Pathfinder is jerking real bad and not accelerating. Had knock sensor code and crank position sensor code. There was oil on the CP sensor. Is that normal?

My mechanic told me todo the same thing lol. Did it improve power and gas mileage ? That’s mainly the main issue I’m having since that code appeared.

It protects the signal from electromagnetic interference

I replaced the knock sensor the correct way and still code appears. Mechanic says pigtails go bad on these. I have a Hitachi knock sensor new inside engine that I would like to still utilize. So the harness you got will not work for my application. The connector harness I found online that matches the sensors all have two wires on it instead of one. I plan on possibly doing relocation with a cheap knock sensor I previously purchased before Hitachi two feet long wires and connecting to radiator side of connector so if code comes up I would narrow issue to ecm wire. Then just have extra length open car back up and connect to harness already in engine. No shielding on harness that's avaliable online. Do you think I can use both wires without issue and shielding and expect same engine performance. What would be optimal ? Thank you

Hey Andy, do you know if the relocated knock sensor can actually sense knock from the new location, or if the new sensor just alleviates the DTC code by being a happy, healthy, wired-in sensor regardless of its location?

Think this will work for a 1999 Lexus LS 400

Can you explain why the description says "Don't do this knock sensor hack"?

I didi everything like show video. Chkack come again! What can i do?

OH my god could you find any MORE annoying music? I didn't think so. Silence is golden.

Was the car running bad before the relocation

Talk too much