Satara, is a large and very busy rest camp with many traditional thatch huts and a few family units mostly arranged in neat concentric circles. A variety of accommodation is available from luxury guest houses, to family cottages, to 2 and 3-bed bungalows. Accommodation books up quickly however and it is advisable to reserve your accommodation at least 11 months in advance to avoid disappointment. The campsites are also very popular, especially during the July school holidays.
During our last stay, we stayed in a comfortable 3-bed unit with a bathroom with a shower en suite. The rondavels were generously sized with a neat personal lapa (patio with reed fencing for privacy and a braai/barbecue area.) The new sliding doors also added a touch of sophistication.
We prepared and ate dinner after unpacking when we arrived and were delighted to witness the resident African wildcat slink by in the shadows. How exciting! After happily retiring to bed. We heard a loud ruckus coming from outside. A huge honey badger had jumped into the sink and was exploring our outdoor kitchen area!
Self-catering is not the only option available at this camp. The camp also has a restaurant.
We were up early the following morning despite the night's excitement and ready to find everything that Satara is famous for… big cats: lions, leopards, and cheetahs. I kept my eyes peeled. The morning sun made it difficult to spot - but my efforts were rewarded by the sight of two fine cheetahs resting in the morning sun on an anthill.
What a wonderful morning. We stopped at a very well-cared-for picnic spot for a tea break and told the gentleman in charge that we would return the following day to cook breakfast.
After returning to Satara and having lunch we headed out for an afternoon drive heading north on the H1-4. A pride of lions. What?! And less than a kilometer away a leopard sleeping in full view on the branch of a tree. Yes, Satara is indeed big cat country without a doubt.
We also spotted varied game.
The next morning enjoyed watching the sun rise over the savannah and transform the landscape into something magical. We saw a group of four lions right by the road in a sighting that felt almost supernatural. Among the four was an exceptionally rare white lion, which we later discovered goes by the name of "Casper." A lovely creature with leucism, or the Chincilla mutation meaning that he has white fur and bluish eyes. The coloring is caused by a recessive gene and this young fella has sired two white lion offspring. Incredible.
To look into the eyes of a lion and to examine its face is to see the creature's whole life in plain view before you. The animals' lives are mapped out in each nuance, the expression of their eyes, each scar, and even their eyebrows. When you look at a lion's face you immediately see his joys and the high points of his life, you also see each painful scar left by rivals. The depths of his eyes show his birth, ancestors, and even his eventual mortality, most likely at the hands of a rival. To stare at a lion's face truly is a moving and spiritual experience.
I scheduled a sunset drive and later that afternoon we happily piled into a large open-air game drive vehicle with a canvas roof on top in case of rain. Our ranger, Paul, introduced himself and told us that he had been raised at Mala Mala, an exclusive game park bordering the Kruger Park, and was thus more than qualified to lead us into the bushveld as the sun set and home again under the light of the full moon.
He took a side road and chatted happily as he zig-zagged along roads visitors normally never get to see. We did not see much and were somewhat disappointed. Then he took a rather bumpy ride offroad and headed to Nsemani Dam. He found a quiet corner and we waited. An elephant and calf that had been separated from a breeding herd appeared.
He then proceeded to give the distress call of an antelope in the hope of luring a leopard, or hyena into our presence. We were rather skeptical of his peculiar methods. But, soon discovered that there was indeed a method to his madness. A leopard appeared in the shadows. We all sat still and waited patiently with bated breath as the leopard walked out into full view and proceeded to drink from the water of Nsemani Dam. A truly awe-inspiring moment no doubt everyone present would treasure forever.
Just when you thought things couldn't get any better he located the four lion boys we had seen that morning and we heard one roar!
We returned back to our bungalow and enjoyed listening to the peaceful sounds of nightjars calling.
What an amazing adventure we had experienced in the beautiful bushveld and who knew how we could possibly top our experiences with more?
Music by Storyblocks
Video, Photos, Narration by Tanja Nayak
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Note: the Cattle Baron franchise has since taken over the restaurants at Satara