Thanks man!!

Thank you! I have plans to make a even more in depth and better content video very soon 😎 thanks for watching

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for watching!

Glad you think so!

Glad it was helpful!

That’s awesome! Good to hear!

You’re welcome thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

We could do that! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching 🤘🏻

@@d3offroad You guys are awsome

Would you like me to do a video talking about the rzr suspension more in depth? I also keep getting a lot of questions about live valve on the machines maybe I should talk about it as well!

Thanks !!

The stiffer factory spring 6.5” compared to aftermarket 12” the multiple factory per inch . The travel length would affect the overall compression ratio ?

Sorry I’m not quite sure I’m following your question. Could you try rewording it?

Sorry, really wasn't a question. I was just commenting, that I was glad to see your video. Because I had seen so many others talking about the springs sagging. When maybe all they need is to recharge the nitrogen. @@d3offroad

@@hexhound2273 ahhh gotcha! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!!

Glad it was helpful! There are still times where springs are required of course but not every owner needs to run out and buy spring kits right away like you see on a lot of Facebook posts 😉

Haha thanks for watching! Don’t get me wrong springs have their place if you carry a ton of gear and the nitrogen is setup correctly you might need springs if you’re going beyond ideal amounts of preload… but that isn’t very common on krx! Or if you’re trying to achieve a really slick race tune and preload and spring rate is super important but the average trail riding through the bush just need correct nitrogen and a good internal shock tune. As for clutch weights from all our research the JBS weights seem to last the longest we are running them in our machine 😎

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the support man! Internal video will be up this weekend!

@@d3offroad will be watching for it 🤙

Feel free to email us at d3-offroad@outlook.com and we can chat about getting you set up!

Thanks for watching!!

We have technical difficulties at times 🤣

Thanks! He’s all shocks will benefit from getting a nitrogen cap install/mod and if your machine does not have a true dual rate setup from factory it’s a huge upgrade! Where the KRX has a great dual rate from factory it is not a huge upgrade.

Not too far! Shoot us a message at d3-offroad@outlook.com and we’ll get ya set up.

Spring spacers are the exact same thing as adding preload to your shock, so adjusting the collar down on the top to get you sitting higher. I don’t recommend either of those if you want it to handle and ride the same you need to instead move shock mounts to get the lift height

🤣🤣 right?!?!

Once you get the caps modified for a Schrader valve or buy new caps you can easily do your own maintenance! With a few tools but the factory caps don’t allow for that

Tire pressures change based on trail conditions and riding style for the day, slow technical rock crawl we will go down to 4-6psi more fast pace ripping on trail 8-12psi usually

Volume does come into play more so on smaller resi shocks the x3 has massive resi and it’s also more important in say desert racing for long periods of time where you can get shock pump from pressure rising due to heat, for the average rider who takes breaks to hang out every hour it is not really needed the shocks always cool off

We have removed the front sway bar completely from the machines, no you do not risk any shock damage without a sway bar. Sway bars jobs is only to control body roll in corners to help fight weight transfer it has no effect on shock droop/extension. The only way you can really damage the shocks is if you put an aggressive spring package with super party mode rebound tune and big heavy tires 😎

Yes, it does not matter if it is live valve or not, we are currently fixing a 2023 with live valve that came in with 9" of ground clearance and is now back up to 14" with 160lbs of gear in the bed! all the IFP were blown inside the resi oil passed them and low on nitrogen and it only has around 700 miles on the machine...

We are not from that area so not to sure sorry

The valves are just like on a tire but you need to use a zero loss gauge when charging them up so I guess you could consider that a specialty tool

We will be putting that out shortly! It’s all personal preference. We run it on one machine, and Steve finds the cameras and tracking feature useful.

I highly recommend it. I have the 4 seat es se, and having the rear camera is super useful. It also gives you full diagnostic info, and it allows you to have your engine gauges in front of you, and your live suspension info on the display screen

Exactly the same concept! Only difference on the ES is instead of manual shock clickers, it’s an electronic servo to go from soft to firm. Springs and all other inner workings are the same. UNLESS your shock is the Live Valve bypass shock.

Yep that would fix excessive body roll!

The spring isolator “black plastic thing” coming in contact with the cross over rings is known to make a clank noise on the krx machines that’s right! A lot of guys will put old oil filter rubber o ring gaskets on the shock to act a damper to help get rid of the noise for all of about $5 vs buying expensive fancy silent rings that do the same thing

@d3offroad ok, thanks. I took mine out the weekend after i picked it up (0 miles), and it clanked. Reading post abut it don't do it justice hahah. Yes, it's very annoying, so that will be done before i take it back out. Also i will be keeping a eye out for any loss of ride height. Any other suggestions on upgrades or mods to do for a new owner like myself?

I’m not following your science haha, the 200psi is pushing against the oil and set at 200 when the shock is fully extended as you set the vehicle weight down the shock compresses under that weight therefor the IFP piston moves inside the resi and the 200psi will be increasing as the area for the nitrogen decreases…. Not sure what square inches or 628 has to do with it please explain your thoughts some more for me to wrap my head around it!

Sorry for confusion. If there is 200 lbs per square inches against a piston that is 2 inches in diameter (the area of a 2 inch circle is 3.14 square inches) 200 x 3.14=628 total pounds of pressure against the piston.

There will be no benefit to a longer tender, the tenders are only used for 1-2” of compression travel then you hit the isolator on the cross over rings and ride solely on the main springs, which is what you want, also when going longer springs they can bow causing more shock wear on the body which is common with one of the famous brands most people buy, cheap quality and long = bad wear

@d3offroad what would suggest doing with the tender springs then, because currently i filled the shocks with 190psi, and only way i can still get my ride height is to crank down my tenders to the point it rides like a brick, at slow speeds, i like the soft floating feeling they you, im running a long arm kit also,

@@AniskaEnt86 Are we talking front end or rear end that you have cranked down? or all of them? the fact that you are running a long arm kit tells me you will need springs because you have moved the leverage point out further from the shocks by moving the tires out. That will mostly affect the front suspension more than the rear. what model krx is it? Nitrogen only is good for stock machines without a bunch of added weight or mods to the suspension once we get into bad ass upgrades proper shock setup is key for the best performance! internal valving and correct spring rates.

@d3offroad, Im running the SATV long arm kit on my KRX, " i should have stated that" (unfortunately we can't post photos or id send some photos of how i have my set up) its 3 inches wider each side, front and rear. With 190psi in shocks, and tenders pretty much cranked, I've got 18 inches of ground clearance, front and rear. This is where I've run into suspension "issues/concerns" in the past with similar setups. See if im not hard rock crawling, like windrock trail 15 or devils type stuff, 75-85% of our riding is under 15mph, in tight technical rocky trails. Every shock company i ever talked to in the past basically told me im pissing in the wind by doing full shocks. On my last sxs (x3), i picked up some Highlifter tenders for cheap, and honestly, it rode quite nice and didn't have to adjust them at all. That's why i kinda had the thought process of adjusting the pressure and running a slightly longer stock tender.

@@AniskaEnt86 Ya that long arm kit is going to change things, 18" is very high in my opinion we run all our machines around here at 15.5" give or take 1/2" on 35" tires because I don't use ground clearance to set up shocks it is incorrect... instead I use cv angles and amount of shaft showing on the shock. to better help you maybe you should e-mail me and we I can send you my form to fill out to get a better idea on your wants/needs! d3-offroad@outlook.com

Thanks! You can email us at d3-offroad@outlook.com or Instagram @d3fabrications

Formula - (150x200) / (150+200) = 86lbs Those are generic spring rates you can use your own numbers and that is why we use a dual rate system so for the initial amount of travel the spring is softer more plush and as you compress the shock it hits the cross over ring and jumps from 86 up to 200lb on the lower main spring to avoid bottoming out Hope you find that helpful!

We were wearing them they just weren’t plugged in properly in the camera, we didn’t catch it till after we had done all the filming. We may redo the video at a later date.