Glad you enjoyed it! I found it quite interesting as well.

Glad I could help

Thx! I try and capture the thought process, reasoning and considerations vs. just 'sending it', but I think it's too much for a lot of ppl

@@netmagi Thanks for the great video. The loader ram force does increase in direct proportion to the pressure, but... part of that ram force is used to lifter the loader itself. As you increase the pressure, all of the "extra" ram force goes into increasing useful load, since the weight of the loader stays the same. I think that's why the useful (measured) load increases by a higher percentage than the pressure does.

@@yabbut thx, that makes sense.

Was fun doing it. Thanks for watching.

appreciate the response, but not sure where you are seeing 1.3% gain. It's ~21%. See the chart at 46:46: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mMWdqa6Uns2VoWw.html

I watched your vid with that huge snow pusher before picking mine up. Gave me confidence that I would be ok with a 6' model weighing in @ ~550lbs

Looking for a L3901 or bobcat 2040. Both 40 hp. For tree service, land clearing and landscape. Very interested in removing dpf ! I've heard- you can just remove the filter and run it.. like to know for sure

Thanks for the sub!

Bought a bobcat CT 4045 SST (manual transmission). Only got 11 hours on it so far..bit I LOVE IT ! ! ! exactly what I need.

Thx, and welcome. Been sub'd on your channel for a while. Thx for all the vids. ZERO issues with the higher pressure. Everything is designed to handle well over stock pump PSI due to pressures created even if the tractor was off and weight was being applied at the loader pivot, up to the amt that would cause it to tip forward. In theory, you'd have to the chain the rear down to the ground and exceed the tipping weight at the loader pivot to cause damage. I think Kubota tends to just set the PSI at where the tipping point isn't reached over a few inches of lift with no counterweight for safety. Most industrial machines are set high enough to reach tipping point, as the hydraulic lines/controls have to support that pressure anyway. One exception would be the pump, as you're driving it 'harder' with a higher setting, but there doesn't seem to be any documented cases of people wearing them out any faster, and we don't know what it's *really* rated for. Obviously the more weight you have at the front pivot (with or without a PSI change) the faster any pins or other moving parts will wear in daily use.

I considered it, but the BH does a good job counterbalancing whatever I lift, and I don't want the overall machine to weigh any more. Aside from when it's real wet and soft in the winter, I can go pretty much anywhere in my yard without leaving ruts/tread marks and I really like that.

@@netmagi Totally understand on that rut making. Just in case you ever find you do need to fill the tires, I have a B2650 (which is lighter than the L) tires filled RimGuard and have the B77 as well. I have found even with the yard wet (not saturated) lm not leaving any ruts. Just for reference to give you some idea. 👍

I don't recall, but it will vary a bit from tractor to tractor. I would strongly advise measuring pressure before and after. The shims are cheap. I would just pickup a small assortment. The shipping will probably be more than the shims.

All significantly above this. Why?: Due to the pressures created when stopping a falling load. Basically, everything is sized to accommodate AT LEAST the pressure created to cause a machine to tip forward with the max rated weight on the 3-pt as ballast.

I believe the BH has it's own relief

Thanks for the sub. I'm working on editing the D1703/L2501 vid and the last part of the mower fix vid now

The small barrel on a modern micrometer isn't used to adjust the tension, it works instead like a mechanical slip clutch ensuring all operators apply the same force.

updated the links

yes

@@netmagi where did you get your shims from for the hydraulic pump?

@@bjl1226 Messick's

There's a throttle-limit bolt on the right side of the engine under the black side cover. Move the throttle while watching that side and you can see the bolt that stops it. I would recommend setting to ~2700rpms. I rarely rev the machine that high, I'm usually between 1800 and 2500 rpms's, but it's good to have it there when you need it.

@@netmagi thank you, thank you for the fantastic video

@@netmagi Any way to do a video on changing the rev limiter?

Yes

@@netmagi what size is the tire?

Messick's Equipment has them online

Possibly. They would have to prove your adjustment is what caused the issue. For example, if your seat safety switch fails, they're going to have a tough time saying you voided warranty on seat by increasing hydraulic pressure. . . If your loader, valving, or pump fails. . yeah, you're on your own. BOTTOM LINE: I would recommend waiting till the warranty is up before making any major changes/adjustments to your tractor. I may not if I needed the performance, but that's on each owner to make that call and take responsibility for their actions. In my case, the warranty was up almost a year ago.

Freedom to make changes & adjustments comes with risk. The intent of this video is to help people understand how the system works, the limitations, and other factors to consider towards assessing that risk. This video isn't for everybody, and everyone needs to take personal responsibility for their own actions.

They'll learn real quick to not be stupid and do more than the equipment is capable of. Stupid is expensive.

Let's ban KZfaq? Lol snowflake

When the tractor tips, you know you went too far.

yes

Titan

Yes, and remember, that 1100 lb rating is at the pins. I'm measuring ~28" forward of the pins (24" + fork frame)

~21% increase in lift capacity. Way more than 30-35 lbs. It's hundreds of lbs. See the chart at 46:46: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mMWdqa6Uns2VoWw.html

@@netmagi my stock pressure was almost 2100 psi…..bumped it to just over 2500 psi…big difference in lift capacity …. Should be safe imo ….I mean the hoses are rated to 3000 psi.

It’s rated for 1150# or so…..not sure where your getting 1920# specs?

that's the 3-pt hitch (on the back)

While I usually try not to feed the trolls, this is straight up misinformation. The Kioti comparable loader, the KL4030 lifts 1,835lbs from the pins @ just under 60" lift height. The LA525 lifts 1,803 lbs at the same height, at the same PSI setting, or 1,490lbs at factory PSI. Even factory PSI vs. factory PSI, that's a difference of less than 25%, not 100% (or twice as much) like you claim. Kioti likes to lead with their 60" number (1,835lbs), while Kubota leads with their lift capacity at FULL HEIGHT, 95" (1,082lbs). Don't get tricked by the marketing folks at Kioti that are banking on folks making this same mistake when comparing.

@@netmagi You get a gold star for this response. In hydraulics the PSI, Cyl size, and where it is placed on the lever arm are ALL that matters. In the case of loaders, all about in the same configuration. You can't beat physics.

Yea but this tractor will continue to run trouble free. Good luck doing that with a Kioti…

Tend to agree with you in general, and their fork frames probably wouldn’t hold up on a skid steer, but on an L-series tractor, their fork frames are a good match and economical.

@@netmagi I recommend Land Pride or MDS. Your fellow American workers will thank you. 🇺🇸

@@StubProductions I do as well. This one came with the tractor from the previous owner.

@@netmagi thank you for the videos!! 🙏👍