I'm always thrilled and smiling from ear to ear when I hear from folks that these videos have served to help my brothers and sisters better understand in a down to earth way with no fancy verbal gymnastics to cloud things up. I like to give every tutorial a big old K.I.S.S " KEEP IT STUPID SIMPLE! " thanks a million for the kind words! peace love and respect Dave in Virginia!

Totally agree - I learned more in 18 mins here than months of internet reading - thanks heaps

thank you I hope this video gets shared so others can benefit from it. there are several very informative videos on this channel pertaining to tractor implement set up and use. I'm sure you will find them helpful as well.

thanks much appreciate the kind words!

awesome! I added top and tilt spool valves on mine. you can see that series on my channel as well. since I uploaded the series many people have done theirs the same way. so far mine is still holding up and functioning great. glad to see folks getting some value from these videos. peace love and respect Dave in Virginia!

glad to help

excellent always perks me up to hear these video help folks. thanks for sharing that with me. peace love and respect. Dave in Virginia

always a pleasure to help my brothers and sisters out there in youtube land! peace love and respect to you and your family. Dave in Virginia

thanks Joe, I hope I can make more if the weather ever breaks. one day its 70 here the next day its snowing to beat the band! crazy weather! enjoy looking at your videos as well brother. hope you are doing well.

Many thanks Dave! We still have very high snow banks here. So to say, warm weather is not there yet! Cheers!

thank you for stopping by if I can help in any way just let me know. I will do my best.

Bay Area Sparky so glad this helped very excited to hear you are getting a top and tilt. You will love it!

Hi Dave. I was making good time on the installation but the kit I got from the dealer was missing the bracket which holds the linkage and levers atop the tank and below the control console plate. So I sewed things up and used the box blade the old-fashioned way, climbing down to make hand adjustments on the fly. I sometimes wonder how they tolerated hopping up and down from the tractor until I remember that they used to have to hook up a mule/horse/ox and that a tractor, even with hand adjustments was probably pretty damn convenient!

AWESOME! I love when these videos are found, and they actually help folks. there are a lot of information packed videos on the channel. when you need it then its nice to have it there available. really appreciate your kind words and time stopping by and writing to me.

glad the video has helped.

watch it all you want to. after seeing this and understanding it my series on adding rear remotes will be easier to follow. glad to be able to help. I have a learning disability myself so I try and make videos easier for even me to understand. thanks for the kind words and for watching. peace love and respect

always a pleasure to help and share information.

awesome brings me a lot of joy knowing some of my videos do help a few folks along their journey.

thank you Ron, I have my moments. Sometimes I fail miserably and butcher things up really good. ha ha

yes in deed and you will love having top and tilt hydraulics!

always a joy to lend a helping hand

I have no doubt in my mind this information will speed things up for you.

I'm so glad you enjoyed it. if you need further assistance I will try my best to help.

heck yeah Virginia is for lovers! good to have you here! if I can help in any way just let me know.

thanks so much for waiting on me. I hope to make some videos soon. been a bumpy winter. I still have plans and still have dreams I'm not dead yet! lol

thanks brother I hope it helps some folks.

man that is so great to hear! I'm thrilled this video and my other many videos have helped so many people. its comments like this that make it all worth while! please feel free to share my videos on your social media outlets. thanks for commenting and I hope you will subscribe if have not already.

I'm trying to push forward. been a crazy winter 70 degrees one day snowing the next. hard to get outside and do anything.

glad you enjoyed it. I'm working on a new series to show how to add a third function valve set up for less money than the typical wrlong , or landpride system so stay tuned!

super excited to launch this video as I know it will help a lot of folks who are apprehensive about venturing into hydraulic tampering and modifying. its still a big job and likely worth every penny the shops charge to do this type of work.

thanks for the kind words and I appreciate you stopping by my channel to watch a few videos.

Glad to help, it always brings me a lot of joy hearing from folks that these videos help in some way. I do appreciate you taking your time to leave such kind words.

I hear you brother. I learned a few things to. only took 6 tries to make this video. door bells ringing, phone ringing, you got mail chiming on the pc, suddenly had to pee, all sorts of interruptions. lol been one of those adventures for sure. appreciate you letting me post to your page.

LMAO! That is a community and you are a member so please post all you want. I need to thank you for posting your videos on my page.

Backhoe for a 4105 John Deere tractor

super glad to hear when these videos help. that is what its all about.

Glad it helped

no problem glad to help!

thank you for stopping by my channel glad you enjoyed it. hope you find other videos on my channel of interest to you. have a great weekend.

JD990 WOW that was one of my favorite tractors ever! a real beast of a bare bones tractor. I always wanted one with a BH I had its baby brother the JD 790. I'm glad you found this video I think it will help a lot of folks. of course I'm sure the dealers are pissed that I posted this as they will be losing work.

Maybe they will, but if it saves a few bucks in our pockets and we're capable of doing the work, why shouldn't we? I just subscribed, looking forward to your next video.

thanks brother appreciate the sub! I already subscribed to you in case you put up a few videos of that jd 990. love to see it in action!

always glad to hear the videos helped. thanks for the kind words.

glad you enjoyed it Greg! I'm sure it will help someone out there who wants to venture into adding some hydraulic goodies! really appreciate you watching and commenting.

you are very welcome, thank you for taking your time to watch it. I hope it will be beneficial to you in the future.

yes sir you are correct in series is how it works. appreciate your kind words and glad the video has helped speed up that learning curve.

thanks for watching Mark I hope it helps a few folks

glad you enjoyed it brother!

glad to help my friend, peace love and respect!

excellent! I'm confident this will help many folks as they take the journey to install hydraulics. I did a video series on my rear remotes but as I stated it was a bit lacking so this should clear things up a lot. really appreciate the kind words and thanks for taking your time to watch my videos. I have a couple on my channel that seem to be better quality wish they all were. peace love and respect, Dave in Virginia

always glad to hear words like this! thank you it brings me a lot of joy to hear that the videos are helping folks.

great questions but beyond my pay grade. typically the rear lift has an internal hydraulic cylinder and a tad difficult to add a joy stick control for the actual three point. three point lifts are generally power up gravity down and have a position control sensor to maintain height. on mine the two spool valve operates a top link and a tilt link. I dont have the tilt link yet that will be a future purchase. normally the filter is in the back to tank line and on some tractors between the HST tranny and the back to tank return as well as the back to tank line from the three point system. a shop manual for your tractor would shed a lot of light on what you could get away with doing.

thanks for stopping by Guy!

no not bsp on mine it was 3/8 NPT into the block if I remember correctly. I tell you this hydraulic fitting sizes and threads can be a real pain in the neck. I'm currently custom building a 3/8 bsp to 3/8 npt adapter and its been a real pain in the butt to iron out.

Hey Ken thank you for the kind words. they are much appreciated. yes you could easily connect a spool valve with quick connects that simply plug in to where the backhoe unplugs. or any place on that circuit. some spool valves have a back to tank port and may require running that extra line. I do think as long as you are using an open center spool valve you could easily omit the back to tank port line. just allow the fluid to flow the return into the power beyond line down stream. in my series "adding rear remotes/ spool valve" I installed my valve by simply unscrewing one line at the rear from the fitting and plumbing it into the spool valve. then came out the spool valve and plumbed into the quick connect I previously disconnected from. now the spool valve is connected and when the hoe is off the two hoses plug into each other completing the circuit. I used 1 male one female at the rear so they can plug into each other. this bypasses the hoe and completes the circuit. hope that helps.

Glad to help. be sure and check out my many other tractor and other how to videos which are packed with great information! I'm honored to have you watch and share my videos.

thanks Bob I hope it helps some folks. its expensive to get remotes added on a tractor after its purchased. I hope this will give folks the courage to install their own.

Michael Grubisha no it uses the power beyond line and simply dumps back into it much like a loaders third function valve has only two lines one in one out. I'm sure you could likely set up rear remotes to work the same way but I have not looked into how to do that or the advantages or disadvantages of a system like that. My guess would be having a back to tank line helps aid in the cooling process of the fluid since it's used once and then returned to tank where as the backhoe theoretically could use the fluid twice as it would use it again at the three point. Of course the three point is not being used with the backhoe installed thus making it acceptable to utilize a non back to tank set up. It essentially uses the back to tank within the three point circuit at the manifold block. Hope this makes sense.

always happy to help.

glad to hear that thanks for stopping by

@@daveknowshow Well almost, I'm confused now! I must have done something wrong. I added a spool valve and remotes to my Kubota L3800 and now to 3 point hitch does not function. Would you mind helping? Both remotes work for my stump grinder. Can I PM some pictures?

@@diamondcutter8535 yes email me at daveknowshow@aol.com

@@diamondcutter8535 also just to let you know. Id say you have the tank port and the power beyond port likely backwards. this means your power beyond is dumping straight back to tank and your back to tank is dumping into the power beyond port. its not gonna hurt it but as you can see it makes the three point no longer operate.

Glad it helped! you are on the right track for success! if I can be of further help just let me know.

glad you enjoyed it!

you need the valve to be an open center valve so if that means leaving the plug out leave it out. not sure on that valve. yes you simply run from the power beyond at the loader control to the input of the new spool valve then the output of the new spool valve goes to the power beyond at the manifold block. if you do it wrong you will hear the pump strain as the relief opens and more likely the three point will no longer raise.

glad you enjoyed it and thanks for stopping by!

I would add an electric actuated valve for the grapple lid and plumb it into the power beyond port. I have a video on that here. kzfaq.info/sun/PLLg8VIC7effpOwLD7Y7d2ghv5nY4-b7Cn

daveknowshow thanks! I started watching this series, and will use this approach. Really appreciate it!

that is awesome! so glad to hear this! makes creating these videos worth every bit of effort.

thank you for dropping by the channel

it actually is screwed in the side of the manifold block on this specific machine exactly where shown. this is where you adjust the shim pack to increase and decrease relief pressure. thanks for the comment.

it should have it. I can down load the manual and maybe find it for you. my email is Daveknowshow@aol.com

thanks Barr B appreciate the kind words.

yes and depending on how you set up the spool valve you may not need the back to tank port. just set it up so that the return dumps to the power beyond out port. this how kubota back hoes are set up. which is why they only use two lines. one in one out.

Yes it bypasses straight to tank until you move the three point lever. Then the pressure increases due to load. Once three point is in position and is satisfied via the feedback rod the valve reverts back to dumping to tank. In other words the three point control valve dumps to tank and is the last valve in the circuit. Also when no spool valve is calling for fluid power the system shows very low to no pressure.pressure is only present when fluid is place into a path of resistance. As in into a hydraulic cylinder. I hope this helps

@@daveknowshow Thanks for your explanation! That definitely helps. I also learned that when folks called the line on my tractor that goes from loader valve PB port to the 'tank' it is actually going to the 3 point first, as you're saying. That helped clear things up for me, too. It is a little hard to understand how there is little to no pressure in the system normally, but when something calls for fluid somehow pressure appears. Sounds like magic to me lol. Thanks again!

the manifold block on mine has a national pipe thread. I actually changed it from this configuration to another configuration that works better and protrudes less. I can email you a picture if you contact me via email at Daveknowshow@aol.com the fitting I used was a 3/8 NPT male to 3/8 JIC female adaptor which connects to a 3/8 jic T connector with 3 JIC male fittings which the hoses hook into from the loader and rear remotes back to tank lines. if you would like a picture of what that looks like just email me and ask for the pictures of the manifold. I will be happy to send them ASAP.

always happy to help.

yes you got it!!! just add it into the circuit. very simple

always happy to share and help my tractor brothers and sisters along the way.

thank you sire I'm honored you found it helpful!

you can jump into the circuit any place you need to.

glad to help, keep in mind you can use the open center spool valve and not install the back to tank line. it will merely dump back through the power beyond port. this eliminates 1 hose completely and no need for the "T". found this out after the fact.

the Tee is an inline npt to 2 #8 jic fittings. the hoses on my Kubota are on the hose ends are 8G *jix or jx depending on manu. the fittings on the manifold are a npt to 8jic if it is an o ring type fitting on your back hoe or other attachment it is a jm or boss fitting it stands for Joint industry council. they are identical to 8 AN that are Army Navy fittings just looser standards. hope this helps

Thank you, sir. I was able to get this all done some time back and it’s been working well.

yes and no. not so much "straight to tank" it makes one more stop. it hits the three point lift to be available pressure if the three point calls for it. if the three point does not call for hydraulic power then yes it dumps straight to tank after it goes through the cooling radiator to reduce the temperature of the fluid. hope that helps. note also in this video we do NOT show the cooling radiator for the hydraulic system. it simply was not needed to explain how the system works.

If your buckets tilt is sloppy it's probably a cylinder problem ( mine just started doing that ..

I think I ordered it on amazon or I may have got it from Summit hydraulics they are very helpful. give them a call

took me some digging to figure it out myself. pretty simple once you get a grasp on it. like that new LX very nice!

Thanks Dave!

a detent style valve may work although during a bumpy ride the valve may spring back from the jolting and that would shut the motor off. I would try contacting Brian Brooks over at brooks ag parts and see if he can help you select a valve. you will need to know the flow rate of your hydraulic system which is listed in your owners manual under specifications try this number for Brian tell him I sent you there from youtube. 513 715 0532 if he cant nail down a valve for you try surplus center hydraulics get the number online. if that dont render any good results for you let me know and I will try to help you figure out which valve I would use if I was doing it myself on my machine. hope this helps. Dave

not likely if it has no float position. typically, the relief in a standard spool valve is 3000psi which is higher than the standard setting on most tractors until you get into the super large machines. this 3000psi is mainly in play when you dead head the valve and the cylinder is at the end of its stroke. if this is a 3 point implement the three point will likely raise since it is gravity down. if this is tow behind batwing mower that may be a good question for Tim Marks over at tractor time with Tim. he uses a lot of batwing mowers and can explain how the hydraulics need to be set up. hope this helps. be sure and let Tim know I sent you there with this specific question so he wont send you back here to ask me. lol hope between the community we can get you an answer quickly.

thank you for watching, glad you enjoyed it and I hope you find many other informative videos on my channel.

I'm here to help in any way I can. thank you for the kind words.

yes relief valve opens when pressure exceeds set limits. no back to tank from the factory hoe. they used open center flow through valves so the back to tank fluid travels out to the power beyond port when the valve is activated in either direction.

the threads on these are weird mine was a pipe thread I believe it was 3/8 NPT national pipe thread. some of the tractors have BSPT british straight pipe thread. you best bet is remove the block and take it to a local hydraulic shop. they can measure it exactly and sell you exactly what you need hoses and all. I like the J.I.C pipe thread connectors I also like the "o" ring style hydraulic fittings. so if you find out yours is a national pipr thread which is a tapered thread convert it right away with a NPT to JIC or something more user friendly. my reason for saying this is the NPT being a tapered thread does not handle removal and install more than a few times. this can be a problem. for example right now my tractor is in pieces and the JIC fitting came right apart easily and will go right back together and not leak, the NPT not so easy and likely will leak. you cant hardly have to many spool valves on a tractor. I always thought all I needed was two on the rear. I was wrong I wish I had three back there. I may add one at some point. I love the top and tilt and that requires two spool valves. a third would mean I could build a small dump trailer and have the third spool valve power the dump cylinder. or run a sickle mower boom, post driver or maybe any number of other things. you can always run hoses from the back or front to power various things. snow plows on the front with up down and side to side angles would require two spool valves. anyhow I hope this helps and if I can be of more help just let me know. I love helping my brothers around the globe! Peace Love & Respect to you and your family Dave in Virginia USA

@@daveknowshow Thanks a lot for your explanations. You help a lot.

you can simply have the low pressure return through the power beyond flow or dump it into the tank fill port although sometimes on some machines that option bypasses the filter which is not a good idea. so look into it further. typically power beyond return pressure is low pressure in fact its all low pressure until its being used the pressure build in the cylinder that is consuming it. the rest is simply low flow through on these open center hydraulic systems.

power beyond should flow into the new valve and then out the new valve to complete the circuit. hope that makes sense.

I guess you could but the valve will likely create additional heat on the fluid. its easier to just tap into the circuit at the valve or manifold , when the hoe is off use a male female connection and just feed the circuit back into itself to complete. I can help explain further if you need help.

lol it fits my Busy mind. I'm an over thinker amongst other things. ha ha

it saved me about 300 bucks piecing mine together. maybe more. I wish I had put three sets of remotes instead of just two sets.

also check summit hydraulics.

if its an open center valve all you need to do is hook it into the Power beyond line. you will have pressure coming from the FEL power beyond port into the inlet of the open center Kubota valve and then out the Kubota open center valve to the power beyond port at the manifold block.

more likely on that year tractor its a 3/8 NPT my suggestion is take it to a hydraulic shop and let them check the threads. if it is 3/8 NPT thread "national pipe thread" then get an adapter and change it to either J.I.C fittings or "o" RING boss fittings. the J.I.C is the best. they cost more but well worth it.

@@daveknowshow Hi Dave, thanks a lot for that information. I am going to give it a try.

thanks my friend

glad to help thanks for dropping by my channel

System should work on the same principle. You should be able to add a valve with a power beyond port and back to tank port and plumb it in right off the hydraulic pump if need be. Some adapter creation may be necessary.

sounds like the power beyond line and the back to tank line are reversed. study your spool valve and identify the power beyond out let port make sure that line hooks into the power beyond port at the manifold block. make sure the back to tank line "if there is one" is hooked to the back to tank port at the manifold block or anywhere in the line just before the manifold block. also check to be sure the flow is correct on the new valve. the line coming out of the third function valve should hood into the inlet of the new three spool valve. if you are still stumped you can email me pictures of your valve and a copy of the model number, brand and instructions and I will help you the best I can. my personal email is Daveknowshow@aol.com

@@daveknowshow Thank you very much for the help on the new spool valve. everything is working now. Again Thank you!

@@davidgrissam3919 thank you for allowing me to help it was my pleasure and I really enjoyed our phone conversation.

thank you for watching!

You are welcome, thanks for dropping by

ok so this is just a theory so take it for what its worth. its my understanding these pumps run continuously as long as the tractor motor is running. the faster the rpm of the motor the faster the pump turns. this is one reason its important to run at 540 pto speed or higher specifically on HST model tractors. my opinion on what is happening to your tractor is this. when the pump is spinning its under near zero pressure as its in an open center hydraulic circuit state. the hydraulic fluid runs freely under zero or near zero back pressure from the pump through the circuit and back to tank as the diagram shows. its only when we use a function that pressure occurs due to its use. or in the event of some type of blockage. for example the soft low pressure return line could collapse and cause a restriction in the flow which would increase pressure and hold that pressure for far to long. additionally a hydraulic filter could collapse internally or have some other obstruction that is stopping the flow causing long term extreme high pressure. when ever you remove a filter look inside the port where that filter goes in and inspect it for chunks of metal to large to come through the port. on rare occasions casting debris from the rear housing can break off and cause a block in flow. also a relief valve that will not properly open will also restrict flow and can cause the same problem with pump failure. I hear people adding shim packs to increase lift capacity and many times that is a recipe for disaster. you could install a pressure gauge on the lines used for "back to tank" and also "power beyond" as well as one line going to the curl cylinder on the front end loader. check these gauges for abnormal reading. the back to tank would in my opinion read near zero with little pressure. " I could be wrong on that so ask your dealer" the power beyond should read the same when nothing is being used. the one going to the loader function should read zero when not used and go up to the rated hydraulic pressure of your tractor when the valve is open. holding the valve open and after the bucket is fully curled the pump should get a little louder and the pressure meter should remain at or fall below that constant measure. if the reading continues to rise you have a faulty relief valve and it should be calibrated or replaced. be sure and check the return hose that feeds the pump as that hose can collapse and cause restrictions that would increase pump pressure that the relief valve would have zero control over to relieve. additionally a crack in that line can introduce air in the system at the pump and cause cavitation in the pump which raises pump temperatures to extreme measures where failure would occur. again this is purely my opinion based on logic and my limited knowledge of hydraulics on tractors. a good service shop manual for your model tractor would be very valuable to diagnose these issues I have talked about. I have given you some very good concrete concerns to address. take these questions to another person who is a certified Kubota technician and get their opinion on these theories. NOT ALL KUBOTA TECHNICIANS ARE WELL EDUCATED. find one or two or three and get their opinion and compare. Northern tool has hydraulic gauges cheap. the plumbing fitting can be pricey but far cheaper than a new pump. buy three gauges and install them all three. turn on the tractor and write down the reading. do it quickly don't let the tractor run to long and burn up another pump. I hope this helps and I wish I could be more helpful with an absolute fix. I live in chesterfield VA 23838 if you are close by me I would be happy to come by and see what the pump failure looks like and where I would install the gauges. I would like to see the pump and gear that failed. you can email me a picture to Daveknowshow@aol.com

try read locktite thread locker

yes run two lines back there for the splitter. one with a male connector one with a female connector. when the splitter is not on simply plug one hose into the other to complete the loop. hope that makes sense. on another note my advice is stay away from tractor mounted / powered log splitters. the flow rate is to low and cycle times will be painfully slow. buy a stand alone splitter and tow it behind the tractor. this way you can use the tractor to load wood on the splitter. those large logs are heavy. I tow into the woods disconnect the splitter and use the grapple to raise and lower rounds onto the splitter. once they are split small enough I can manage them by hand. the stand alone splitter saves wear on the tractor as well. maintenance on the tractor is far more expensive than that of a splitter. I picked up a 27 ton troybilt splitter for 700 bucks. it was brand new and had been returned to lowes. they made a mistake putting one hose on wrong. I moved the hose around and its been great!

@@daveknowshow makes perfect sense and is what I was thinking of doing. Just wanted additional verification. Greatly appreciate it!

I dont have any links my advice is locate a decent hydraulic shop that is willing to help you figure out which adapters you need. some fittings on these tractors are 3/8 NPT " NATIONAL PIPE THREAD " others are JIC style fittings. do a google search for " identifying hydraulic fitting " this will help you be able to identify what you have and build from that. I went cheap because my money is limited. I used a lot of 3/8 NPT premade hose. this saved a lot of money. I still had to convert some of those 3/8 NPT fittings to JIC or BSPT " british straight pipe thread" and also the number 8 o-ring style as well. its a lot to deal with and I simply did the best I could to save money. with that said I likely spent more than I should have but lots less than if I had paid the dealer to install it and get the parts together for me. I got frustrated at times but it was a learning experience. lol

pull it apart! more likely a broken spring bad Oring or something that has the port clogged up. could be as simple as trash in the valve. pressure relief stuck open or even linkage issues can also create this problem.