You can see them in the video about the low profile tractor. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZ2geK1yy8epf6c.html

+John Dough correct. I slipped.

Absolutely, what small tractors bias ply are more common.

Glenn Lego there called spin out rims,,,,

Weighted down, while in 4x4 plus sometimes standing on the diff lock should be enough, if not chains provide ultimate grip BUT for cons; they should bot be used on blacktop or concrete driveways.

+That farming Kid no, only 4060

Not usually, needs new rims

+Alex Wrench never seen a wireless option. I am sure here on the good ole u s a there would be many concerns of being sued.

Messick Farm Equipment ya just curious, I just assumed it was a Kubota part because it was orange, but it could have been an aftermarket or home made deal

Yes, there is a bar tire option.

Eric Jansen Europe would have totally different tire choices then we have in US

www.galaxyprimex.com/EN/tires/ag/Garden-Pro.html also for Canada and USA.

sierradriver 101 I know it's a lot smaller machine, but I use a 90's Craftsman GT with front blade & R1 ags for snow removal. The difference between turfs & ags in snow is incredible. With turf tires I couldnt move anything deeper than 4 to 6" without spinning out. With R1 tires & 50lbs of fluid in each wheel it will plow 10-12 deep snow as good turfs with chains on them. Basically it depends on the surface of driveways, if you aren't picky enough to care if you get marks from tire chains, throw chains on your turfs, otherwise get a set of R1s.

awesome thank you ! after researching online, all i found out is people preferred turfs. in all honestly, i couldn't believe that. we've been using turfs for years and to plow anything deeper than about a foot all we do is spin. I always figured R1's had to be better. thank you for confirming ! as far as tire chains go, 95% of the driveways we plow are paved, so chains aren't really in the question. lol

If it holds air, no worries

You can get LSW's on the M-series machines, not the smaller ones.

Oops... never mind, found it. Looks like a M5 low-profile. I was sort of figuring that looked like an orchard model but haven't seen many of those in orange. :-)

+EOSJOE yup

You can mix. The important thing is that the circumference of the tires is correct for the tractor, so that the front and rear wheels will pull at the correct ground speeds in 4 wheel drive.

@@svtirefire Cool thank you for the info!

R1

@@MessicksEquip Thank you for answering!

He said R-1s are the cheapest tire option in the video.

all 4 should be the same. Ag tires will be the most aggressive.

+Adam they are cheap.

It sounds like you may be over inflating the tires. Two lugs should come very close to completely touching the ground.

+AWD3264 with bias, where radial will get 3

Well, both the loader and backhoe are meant to break the ground and dig, but I'm guessing you mean while these are in the air. If you're running the machine in the high gear while driving then yeah, that could be it. I would also suggest checking yourself to see if you locked the differential or put it in four wheel drive. If not, then it's probably just how wet it has been. Besides weight on the loader which puts weight on the front tires which do the most rubbing on the turf which can cause it to sink in and tear it up, that's the only thing I can think of other than it just being the condition of your property. Hope this helped, if not, sorry.

Thanks Jackson. That does help. For my knowledge, why does 4WD damage turf greater than 2WD?

Well, 4WD runs drive force to all four tires at once right? Basically, with that front tire pivoting at the same time that it's pulling the weight of the tractor it digs in, and then when the rear tire goes over it it kind of squishes it in and tears it out a little bit. I would even go as far as to say you don't need 4WD for loader work or backhoe work, especially backhoe work. Just set the parking brake for backhoe work. You really only need four wheel drive if you get stuck or don't have enough traction with just the rear wheels. You might want to use the differential lock if one tire gets stuck and the other is still spinning. If you're gonna be using the machine for clearing snow this winter, that's when you're really going to need to put in four wheel drive. And don't worry about tire chains if you're only getting like a foot of snow. We had turf tires on our old BX2230 and we used a snow blower and pushed snow with that with no problem, no tire chains needed. That's not to say that you don't need them, but I suggest that you try clearing snow without them once or twice the first times around. You'll see if you need them then, if you do have to clear snow. I also suggest getting a front plow, either for the loader or the quick hitch, over a snowblower because from personal experience, you're gonna get a lot of snow back in the face snowblowing with an open station tractor such as a BX. Plows still work for long driveways fairly well as long as you angle them, but if you get a foot and a half or higher of snow then you should consider a snowblower because a plow will take longer with that much snow. Sorry for wasting your time with the whole snow part if you don't get any. Hope that explains it, anyways. Always happy to help someone out. Always even happier when they accept that help. Take care.

Go 2 wheel drive and slow down. That should solve it.

KD 68 also reduce your weight on the machine. I.E. the backhoe is a lot of rear weight if you are not using it. Most people I know that mow with their tractors will remove the loader even while mowing. Basically I suggest being as less aggressive as you can he for whatever job you are doing for your turf. 2wd with out diff lock is less aggressive than with diff lock 4 wd with lots of weight (loader with full bucket and backhoe) being the most aggressive.

I just want some slicks to use when drag racing my tractor, but cannot find them. I guess I'll have to settle for turf tires when I take her to the drag strip.

Get a striping kit and paint them on.

They're hidden inside the white houses.

Kevin Only was

White walls with spinners would be sick. Or is it lit? I can't keep up with the lingo these days.

I suppose you also think the car salesman should teach automotive engineering.

We're you at I will switch I have ag tires to aggressive

@@bigsess68 South Dakota

Lots of videos on that. Search is your friend.

Chains work for me

I have, search the channel.

agreed.

Sean Taray Hi Sean how do you like the 111 and if I may ask in what applications are you using it?

TheSaint68 I like it. I am using it mainly in poultry houses. right now it's main use is with an LVI windrower.

+Stan Wilhite nothing really it's just a series designator

THX....always wondered!

B=Boys size tractor M=Man size tractor Just kidding, I have no idea what the letter designates.

:-)

@@Polarisjunky97 ...and in the _k series: c=child d=dad n=(your word here)

+victor castle series

We generally would recommend R4, but I hear a lot of people happy with Turf as well. AG I'm sure it would do fine, I'm not sure you can lose.

ok thanks! we have turfs on right now, but we were looking for more traction. when it comes to blowing anymore than about a foot of snow the turfs really fall short

Video was made before they were an option

As long as the rolling radius is okay

Messick's thank you Michael

+Kellie Overgaard we sell case and new Holland as well

how simple is a case farmall 100c to operate. thats my uncles raking tractor

Messick Farm Equipment Aren’t New Holland tractors formerly Ford Tractors?

More or less, yes.

No, it's a strut for taking up some ROPs weight

What do you mean by a down pressure kit? I serious doubt you really want a down pressure on your 3 ph. Any lost of traction is counter productive! There are a few implements that I have seen that have down pressure options, but all that come to mind are used in a stationary position (post hole augers come to mind).

Yes, but no one uses calcium anymore because its corrosive.

stoney carter uh ya, that’s what he said , get the tire where it matches the work you will be doing most of the time. For instance I have R4 on my L series, but I do landscaping type of applications, loading large rocks , moving fell trees, topsoil , gravel, etc... been in plenty of “muddy” yards or converting an overgrowth area without much sun and have had no problems with the R4, and look I didn’t till the yard up. If you are almost always in foot thick deep mud then by all means get the R1s

@@CQN1HN you must be on flat ground because if its wet and you try to go up hill with R4 you wont make it they suck for what I do R1 is the best

stoney carter agreed like I said and he said use what is best for you, that is why they have options, “wet” and “uphill” are subjective/relative terms. Your original reply implied that the R4s has no place and they do, In my application I would never buy R1s because like you said they would suck for me.

@@CQN1HN I agree but for me working 134 Acres the R4 are no good on hills and wet or muddy places the R4 tires are for hard compact places and some wet, but now they are coming out with a cross with better tread

I have R4’s on my MX6000 and I just pulled large sections of black oak up a wet steep hill right after a rain storm to get it on flat ground to make it easier to cut up. That’s with only filled tires for ballast.They worked great.

There is no Deere in this video?

The gay commenter Rob Mitchell.

+OldTractors I do it every day, can't ever say i've felt the tread.

Messick Farm Equipment I did it for three hours once, at that was enough. Perhaps they ride better on turf or dirt.

my R4s must be defective cause i feel more like being on a carpet when driving on pavement or it is my brain that is. lol

I have R4 tires on my BX2360 and it rides fine down the road. I have a smooth ride.

No, they're all barefoot in the kitchen. Take your petty political correctness elsewhere.