My fiancé was going to use her very own money to get me a new wedding band but I think I’ll ask for one of these instead.

No other trimmer offers the perfection of the L.E. Wilson.

Gavin,nice video. Here are my comments:WILSON ALL STAINLESS CASE TRIMMER CT-SSKIT with micro-adjust and improved 1/2-20 black oxide stop screw I own 2 L.E. Wilson case trimmers,non stainless and decided to purchase their new All Stainless trimmer CT-SSKIT and improved screw diameter and their micro-adjust barrel. Like many and over my 45 year reloading career rust has been a negative factor in machine tool steel. This new cutter is also a life time purchase. I use case trimmers daily in my reloading business and I own everything from a Lee hand trimmer to the Giraud super fast electric. My older L.E. Wilson trimmers have accoutrements as made by Sinclair Int'l(now Brownell's). One has Sinclair's black anodized micrometer barrel graduated in exact .001" delineations and 1/10 inch barrel scribe lines. The other Wilson-Sinclair trimmer of mine uses the Starrett 1" micrometer fitted with a screw-on tip allowing precise 0-1" adjustment with a broader surface tip. Both of my older Wilson trimmers have the Sinclair proprietary 1" stainless trimmer spacer their item # 749-002-094 or WX11 at $12.99 a definite investment as this allows you to cut cases that are nominally 1" shorter than the Wilson trimmer or Sinclair version provides. My learning of this new L.E. Wilson all stainless micro-adj trimmer was somewhat different from my direct-read micrometers discussed above. This newer tool uses as mentioned a larger stop screw which besides being a non-rust oxide finish, offers a better stop for the base of a case while trimming, a great improvement. The micro-adjust on this new trimmer differs in that there is no direct dial-in for a desired case length trim length in my example a .243Win at 2.035" trim-to length. Wilson suggests setting up the barrel stop to a point about 2 scribe lines on the micro barrel then tighten the thump screw that keeps the micrometer barrel from turning. Wilson then suggests loosening the set screw on the barrel itself making sure the thumb screw is still tight and aligning the loosened barrel nut and setting it to "zero". This is all done with an untrimmed case in the appropriate case holder. The cutter blade is then bottomed out on its stop nut resting on the right hand bearing, and the case holder with test case residing on this newly set micro adjusted micrometer. You are then instructed to make a trial cut and check the length,then loosen only the thumb screw and bring the large screw clock wise by increments of .001" to attain correct case trim length. This new micrometer is only a reference number as the barrel has no direct micrometer read-out expressed in inches and decimals. This is only a point to start when doing one particular caliber (.243 in my case). If you set up for a .308 or other caliber, you cannot simply dial in the length, you have to make "trial cuts"again and establish a new micrometer reference setting. I did the following to keep a micrometer as a micrometer as we know it. I took two Sinclair WX11 spacers back to back (now 2" long exactly) and placed them in this new trimmer touching the cutter which is firmly against the right side bearing, and the other end of the spacers touching the advance screw stop. I then call this my 2" reference. I then loosen the small set screw on the micro barrel and set the indicator at "ZERO" thus establishing zero as 2 " exactly. A case length to be trimmed to 2.035" in my .243 simply means turning the re-zeroed mike counter-clockwise only .035" which now reads on the barrel the number .035" which is only after turning my micrometer from my "Zero" setting of 2 inches.I I always return my micrometer to "0", then I always know that 2.0" exists between cutter bearing side to screw side and any case length longer means opening up the screw by how many thousands longer than 2.0 inches is required. Cases shorter that 2" you can use one Sinclair spacer (1") to narrow the zero gap to a minimum of 1.5" which should be sufficient for all but a few small rifle or pistol trimmings. I suggest as well investing in the fine Sinclair-Brownell's 749-003-706WB (054800) Trimmer Platform for a secure base with rubber feet and pre-drilled for the Wilson trimmer,screws included. The cost is $39.95.

I love my Sinclair Stainless Ultimate Trimmer. The Sinclair version of this trimmer is a Wilson case trimmer with a Sinclair micrometer attached to it. The Wilson Trimmer is a great trimmer with out the Micrometer. The micrometer was just the icing on the cake. I'm trimming 6.5 Creedmoor, 45acp, 9mm, and 223, and this trimmer is pain free. After using Lee and Hornady Trimmers, I bit the bullet and paid the price. Repeatability and Consistent trim lengths is the name of the game when it comes to trimming. If your going to shoot long range, every variable counts, and.this trimmer will last me a life time.

Awesome video Gavin. Great walk-through on set up and use. Keep those videos coming.

I'm still using my grandfather's Wilson trimmer from the late 1950's. It's actually shorter than the current ones, I replaced the rails and had to cut about 3/8" off them. Still works good. The turning handle is different too. A lot shorter handle

I've been using a Wilson trimmer and gauges for about 15 years and this is the first time I have ever seen someone use the case length gauge to get a rough starting point for trimming. Great idea! I also use the Sinclair version due to the slightly better micrometer head. I recommend the carbide cutter whenever your current version becomes dull. Keep up the great work!

Great video as usual. Just started using the star line 6.5 cm brass

Ive had one of these for years and can only say good things about it, better than the lyman i had before it, i do resize my brass first though and no need for 2 holders and you mentioned they are not expensive but have 8 different calibers and it mounts up

Wilson/Sinclair is quality reloading equipment . They make excellent gages for bullet measure, headspace comparating, case length/head space specs, concentricity/runout, neck wall thickness. They are all effective in terms of accuracy,consistency and quality. You will never be disappointed if you invest in the aforementioned equipment. Lyman, RCBS, Hornady and Frankford Arsenal case prep centers are good for champfer,deburring ,primer pocket cleaning and inside neck cleaning as an addition for speed. Giraud and Little Crow's(world's finest trimmer) are good for power and quickness. But for gages and non powered consistent trimming, I would own nothing but Wilson/Sinclair. Ironically the only other non powered trimmer I love is Lee's case length gages. Very simple effective tool you can use by hand or attach a power drill to . As for micrometers only RCBS designated caliber or quality hand held ball type can be compared.

i like using the case holders for this trimmer for giving you some more meat to hold on to when cleaning/reaming/uniforming primer pockets, saves your hands from cramping up too fast.

Have one of these here in Australia, greatest trimmer ever.

As with any L.E. Wilson steel case gage and case holder, make sure to use Hornady One Shot cleaner/lube (or similar product) to prevent rusting. Love the L.E. Wilson gages and case holders, but they rust easily if not treated just after buying.

Looks like a good little gadget

Hi Gavin, I’ve been using the Wilson / Sinclair trimmer for about a year. I do like it but I find that it does NOT trim the mouths square unless you rotate the case holder about 90 degrees after the first trim and trim the case again. This seems to be caused by the micrometer extension shaft not being parallel to the rails that the case holder rides on. Trimming twice adds a lot of time to the process but the problem could likely be rectified by a different design of the micrometer extension rod that engages the case head. There may be some manufacturing QC issues as well.

I found the directions that came with this trimmer a little unclear. Thanks for the concise tutorial on set up and operation.

Should I trim before or after I resize and fe-prime the brass? And if it has already been resized, would I need the new or once fired case holder?

I also have the Sinclair version which I prefer because of the micrometer setup. I’ve used it to trim a couple thousand or so rifle cases so far and the trimmer is beginning to get a bit dull. They offer a carbide cutter with an enlarged handle for the Sinclair version but I’m not sure whether it will also work on the Wilson trimmer.

How do you know it cuts perfectly square without measuring the trimmed case? It would be nice if you measure the case after you trim it. The main argument with trimming brass is the consistency. I wish you had taken three measurements around the trimmed case and show that it cuts even. Thank you

Thanks for this video! I also have the sinclaire version of this case trimmer but could not find much info on the q-type shell holder. This video answered my questions and I will have one on order very soon. Keep up the great videos, I’m always waiting to see what you have for us next.

Fired as I’m fired then full length resized? Or only neck sized? My once fired and sized won’t fit in the new case holder

I bought that trimmer kit. Does the hold down clamp supposed to come with the kit? Mind didn't but the in the description it says it does. I dont know if it's supposed to be with it or it's a separate purchase?

Gavin, why are you trimming fired cases before resizing them? Shouldn’t they be sized and then trimmed?

On the fired Case holder, do you resize your brass before trimming? I noticed your fired primers are still in the case.

I have mostly RCBS equipment and ordered the pro trimmer 2 mainly because it had built in universal shell holder and pilots for various calibers. Well as I’ve gotten more experience and am reloading to a higher degree of accuracy and consistency I cannot get repeatable accuracy of trim length and have meticulously tried to line up case true to pilot and used a case already sized to length. I love my single stage Rockchucker Press but this trimmer is so inconsistent and trims cases out of square and too short! Very very frustrating, I saw your video and ordered the L.E. Wilson micrometer trimmer. Granted you have to buy caliber specific case holders and choose between fired or full length sized or new brass case holders. I don’t have the money to get all the case holders and I’ve even started to buy Lee Gold Medal Premium does because each die set comes with a Full length sizing die, a Neck sizing die with free floating carbide neck bushing, but also a Micrometer Bullet seating for!! I’m slowly finding and buying premium tools as I grow with knowledge and proficiency in handloading! Thanks for the awesome equipment reviews!

Am I missing something here.... , if you are full sizing used brass, I take it you need the "New"Case Holder? and you would have to size the used cases before trimming in this cutter?

There is also a Meplat Trimmer (Bulletholder & Cutter) from Whidden Gunworks for the L.E. Wilson and the Sinclair Trimmer available.

Very late comment but here is a question. When you put the case gauge in to set up the correct trim length. Do you use have to set the length again if ur using fired brass vs new brass. Do u have to set the lenght again

Gavin, I am in the market for some 9mm dies and noticed that Redding claims that their Titanium Carbide provides for smoother reloading without lube than the Tungsten Carbide used by most other manufacturers. I am curious if you have any experience with them and if so if you notice any appreciable difference in smoothness of operation between them and the carbide dies of other manufacturers. I am having a hard time finding any information on this topic other than the promotional stuff put out by the manufacturer about it so any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

You bought the model with the Wilson micrometer. But what do you think about the Sinclair micrometer. I'm trying to make up my mind which one to buy.

How important is it to wash the brass shavings out of the inside of the case before reloading them. It seems like case lube always causes some to stick inside the case.

At first look it’s almost identical to my Sinclair Int. I really miss Sinclair, especially their technical customer service

Still the best? Or is Lyman's new case trimmer better?

I prefer the Sinclair interation of L.E. trimmer (still made by L.E., but Sinclair uses a different style of micrometer.). Also, you can get it from Sinclair right now with the larger base that holds case holders and includes the case holder "fin" for $180!

I am concerned about what holder I would use since I deprime, clean and resize my brass in that order before I trim. Gavin, what is your opinion on that?

Do you have a cuttter for this trimmer that does the chamfer aswell?

Nice clamps

Another tool to love or hate. Pretty expensive if you have a lot of calibers and hand turning isn't all that much fun either. Wilson does make good stuff though. One might laugh but a cheap Lee caliber specific hand set up will cut as good as any and the necks will be cut square. One can use it on any drill as well. Many cutters do not cut square and have to be rotated and trimmed a couple of times to get square. I have a Lyman Power Trimmer that looks a lot like a lathe that I quit using after seeing how out of square the necks were after trimmed. I since have got into using it again, but I have to trim and rotate about a third of a turn twice to get them square. I can see the Wilson trimmer being fine if one did not have many calibers and if they were not loading a lot of ammo. But if you have about 20 or more different calibers to trim this can be pretty pricey.

I’m very new to reload and planing on getting all the equipment to do so very soon, I’m just wondering why you would need to trim the brass down if your going to be using a progressive press doesn’t it just resize the brass anyways? Cheers.

Anyone know if this would accept the Forster 3-in-1 trimmer head?

I own the Lyman quick trim and it's pretty consistent and alot cheaper.

I think once I get into loading precision rounds I"ll have to look into this one. I think I need something faster at the moment.

DId you get the stainless steel blade or the carbide blade?

If you're trimming fire formed cases you need the latter. New and reformed brass take the prior I'm assuming

Do you plan to only resize the casemouth and therefore can trim shot cases before resizing? Or do you trim before full length sizing aswell?

Given my level of OCD it's hard to believe I'm going to say this but; I just can't imagine this making a significant level of difference over other trimmers. Don't get me wrong, it's beautiful... just way too tedious and after all that you still have to chamfer and de-bur.

I own one of these case trimmers. I can't find or confirm that L.E. Wilson make a case holder for a .450 Bushmaster?

hi Gavin I am been trying to get a good case trimer I wish I could use that one just for 223 good video

If you resize brass using a small base die would it not fit best in the new case holder?? Brass should be resized before trimming anyway so don't see any need for a used brass case holder.

Where did you get the T track?

I use the Lee quick trim it's quicker cheaper and it actually camphors and debures at the same time

I know this video has been out for a while, but I have two questions. First of all, you tapped the case head on the bench to seat it in the holder then mounted the holder in the machine to trim. Wouldn't how hard you tap on the case head determine how consistent the trim length is? Seems to me if you tap it harder the final case length could be shorter because you're seating it deeper. Might only be a few thousandths, but that can make a difference. Conversely, if you tap it lighter the final length could be longer because it's not seated as deep. Secondly, I full length size so I would assume the "new" case holder would fit my brass. I don't see an advantage to trimming fired cases prior to sizing because the length could change after sizing. Am I'm missing something?

I believe this was only to showcase the trimmer doing straight wall classes

would rather support you on full30.

Worth noting... the case holders say “for new or full length sized brass” so I thought heck, that’s the one to get I’ll just size my brass before trimming! Nope, my .308 brass still does not fit the “new case” case holder even after full length sizing.

Hi Gavin, Great Video like always. Sorry a bit off topic but could really use your help. Just got the Hornady LNL Powder Safeguard Die but there is nobody that has done a video on how to properly set it up ? I am kinda now to this new tech stuff and would really appreciate it if you could help me with this. Setting up this die and maybe for the RCBS guys their powder cop die also...A two in one video. Please, Please,Please....!

Tapping the trimmed case on the cut end on the table to remove from the holder....not the best for the trim end don't you think?

Very cool tool I have a case trimmer but this one will look so cool on my bench. I need to think of a good reason to tell my wife why I need this trimmer. Does anyone have any suggestions?

You missed the gage micrometer and gage.

That might be the most high maintenance trimmer ever.

I don;t like that large knob on your hold down, pretty close to the spinning case trimmer handle and fingers. I would be bumping that alot while trimming. And it doesn't look very solid.

Gavin didn't show this in this video, but here is why Wilsons trimmer is worth every penny for precision long range case prep. Wilson and Forster trimmers, allow you to turn the Inside and outside of the cartridge necks in .0005 increments! Just about perfectly concentric! Of the 2, I think the Wilson is the most accurate/repeatable and has the most options for cutter/reamers and pilots, and holds the cases the most concentric. Others may like the Forster better. I cannot believe Wilson gets $28.00 for a 1/4" hex shaft to spin this thing with my battery screwdriver though! However, I don't think there is any other inside and outside neck turner that is as good as this, besides the IDOD for $1799.00! Outside neck turners are easy to find, many are mediocre quality tho. INSIDE is what is hard to find. Quality with low runout and good machining is also rare. Forster and Wilson have both! Seating force is how many separate their loads in long range target shooting. Look at the force gauges on the K&M arbor presses that all the benchrest and F class, and extreme long distance guys use. Its about consistent low neck tension! That, is not repeatable, unless you turn the INSIDE of your necks. You can turn the outsides of all your brass and use a arbor to try to set your neck tension but the force it takes to seat your freedom seed varies hugely! (until you ream or cut INSIDE the necks) Doing inside and outside turning you should have some with 20-30 lbs of seating pressure and others with 30-40lbs for example. I sort mine low force at the top and higher force at the bottom of my MTM box. Maybe an odd 45-50lb one here and there, that I use to clean the barrel and check speed etc! Its 5 times worse pressure variance before neck turning the insides. Oh yea, you can trim your cases to an exact length with this tool also!

Yellow box?

Looks like a PITA to me. I'm sure it does a great job though.

I want to make my own casings not reloading. Can't seem to find anything.

Need

How expensive?

Great info but that grey shirt on a grey background bad!

L

L.E. Wilson makes some amazingly precise tools. However.... That is way too many parts and pieces, and too involved for a process for me... I will have to pass...

tedious and expensive. Smacking the case neck? Nah. RCBS trim pro 3 way cutter

Your advertisement of various products makes them equivalent... That is not the case. What you are doing is disservice to the companies who build excellent products in return for money from companies that make second rate products.

Nice tool, BUT.....where is the mic or caliper? You speak OF precision, but you never check FOR precision to validate your work or the tool. I bet your shop teacher is pulling his hair out. Check twice, cut once.

Seriously, you just trimmed a case before you resized it. What a waste of time and poor instruction for your viewers.