Wow, thanks! And thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching :-)

Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching!

You're very welcome! You've got this! :-)

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!

Aww, thanks for the compliment. And thank you for watching!

Ertan Akdeniz Thank you for watching!

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much!

I'm so glad! You got this :-)

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :-)

Glad it helped!

ha...usually my hands look ghastly in my videos. Thought I'd make them look nice for the 10 minutes of filming! Glad this video helped- thank you for watching!

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

You can do either, and it's totally fine :-)

Brass channel is specially manufactured and bent into a sharp U-shape. I wouldn't try making it yourself. You can look it up and buy it using this search phrase "1/8" U Brass Came"

For smaller panels, use the 1/8" U. For a 12" x 34" panel like yours, I'd be more comfortable using the next size up, for sturdiness.

You can find 1/4" nickel plated jump rings, or you can bend some 16 gauge copper or brass wire unto an upside-down U shapes, and tack them to the corners (on the back side) of the panel. Solder to the corners only. The panel's weight is best supported if you attach them there.

Hi, This came definitely would not work for you! There are lamp parts that are used in stained glass that are made of brass, mostly. Do some research on different shapes of stained glass ceiling lamps, and the hardware you'd need. Size of the lamp, number of pieces greatly affect the overall weight, hence the type of hardware you'd need for it to be sturdy.

@@LadyBerz I finally find a solution I put an iron rod inside a zinc channel by staming the front iron tif and passing to the touch all is shedding together and here is a very strong montage for a ceiling light like pyramid hole and inquired

I've always used zinc, brass or copper only. I think you might have trouble soldering 60/40 tin/lead solder to it. It needs a different type of solder. Might want to look it up before trying.

Hi! The majority of glass made is somewhere in the 2mm-4mm width range. It varies by type and brand. The 1/8" channel should accomodate pretty much all glass, unless it is some special, super-thick glass. Use the lathekin tool as shown in the video to slightly widen the channel to accomodate slightly thicker glass. Here, I think I'm using 'single strength' clear, which is around 2.5mm thick. Thanks for watching!

Always try to get all soldering out of the way before patina. You can use special patina made for zinc. I am not a fan of it, because I don't find it to work well. If you really want to have a good matching patina, you can tin the whole frame, then patinate. More time consuming, but be careful with zinc. It has a pretty low melting point, not that far off from the solder, so just be quick with it! No holding the iron in one spot for a long time. :-)

Would using Brass frame be a lower risk for heating to tin it? Like if I know for sure I will tin it so that I can patina to match should I just use brass or copper if Zinc had a lower melt point?

@@kaleecristahunter1456 Yes, brass and copper won’t be melted with a standard soldering iron.

Nope, zinc is soft, but not like lead, which does need stretching. BUT zinc frame, if it’s stored in 6 foot lengths, does warp and bow a little. So before using it, you may have to do a little gentle straightening (work it slightly in the opposite direction that it’s bending). Hope that helps- thanks for watching!

+Алёна Фалеева If you are in the Ukraine, I would search the internet for this. Use keywords like "flat zinc came," OR "U-channel" and the words "brass" "copper" or "zinc." There may be a company near you who can send some to you. Good luck!

+LadyBerz thank you for answer) I search came in Russia!!! Can I ask another question: what iron do you use for your work?

+Алёна Фалеева I have used Hakko 456 irons, but now I use Hakko FX-601 irons. Search the internet for these as well. Ask any questions you like!

Every design is different, but I would only use restrip if your design is a long rectangular shape, putting it simply. If you use the more sturdy zinc frames, as in those that have interior reinforcement, then restrip might not be necessary. The frame will keep the window nice and sturdy. Some folks use both, every time. Restrip is always nice to use when you have a larger panel, like over three feet, say. It will help keep the panel flat when moving it around, and keep it from warping or bending. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your speedy response. Thank you so much for posting such awesome tutorials. (greetings from South Africa)

Hi- the came that you have to stretch is lead came, which we're not using here. The type I'm using here is made of zinc (which is the silver toned one,) brass, and copper. It is all relatively stiff. Search the net for "1/8" flat U came" or substitute the word "channel." You can use lead came for round panels, and yes, it's good to stretch it first, as it will stretch on its own if you don't. Thanks for watching!

We get stuff from Ed Hoy's International in Illinois. You can get some from Amazon!

+Kathleen Hassink I think ladder chain is good, as long as it's a heavy enough gauge (16 or 14 at least) and tacked to as many edge seams as it can be. The only other things I have seen, other than custom made wood frames for ovals are twisted lead came that wraps around the edge, and flexible brass frame. (anythinginstainedglass.com/finishing/brass-channel.jpg) If anyone is reading this, I'd love to hear other suggestions. Thanks for watching!

Search “zinc U-came 1/8” channel” and it’ll be cut down from 6’ lengths.

+Rio Wray Look up "side cutters" "wire snips" or "flush cutter." You can check the tool or electrical supply section of any hardware store. Thanks for watching!

+LadyBerz - Thanks for quick reply. Much appreciated!!

+Mike Hubbeling Nope, it's zinc. A 6' strip of 1/8" zinc U-came is way more flimsy than, say 9/32" or 3/8" zinc, which are both reinforced inside. Both of those are very sturdy and rigid. I only use the 1/8" on smaller projects because of this.

Wire snips, side cutters, wire cutters. My favorite brand is Lindstrom.

Nope, this is zinc came. At the gauge that it is, and in longer lengths, it is bendy. Soft and thin enough to be cut with snips. Here is one supplier: www.delphiglass.com/lead-came-supplies/zinc-copper-brass/1-8-flat-u-zinc-came-6-ft-piece