This method works a lot better if you just sand the edges of the chip to be a smooth transition. Like a smooth hill instead of jagged cliff. That extra step really helps blend the new paint with the old.

Breaking down the hard edge of the chip with some 1500 before starting works, takes away the outline when finished. I've also seen people use a rubber blade to actually fill the chip in one go, think the panel would need laying down for this. 👍

Yeah, you're correct. The new touch-up paint will usually be softer than the original, and exact color matching is a challenge, especially with metallic paints where the size of the metallic flakes vary and also affect the appearance. Filling as accurately as possible and as level as possible with the original paint saves a lot of sanding. And that also reduces the sanding pressure required and consequently reduces occurrence of deeper sanding scratches within the repair area, as well as reducing "melting" of metallic flakes (in metallic paints) due to excess sanding friction which can cast the repair paint color with a grayish hue. I found that wet sanding by hand with 600 grit followed by 2000 grit is the perfect combination. Then follow by hand-buffing with Meguiar' Swirl Remover 2.0, which works surprisingly fast even by hand because this product is just so effective. Overall this method works best from my personal experience, and the results are better than repainting an entire panel, since that usually results in the entire panel color not quite matching neighboring panels. That's visibly far worse than a small paint chip touch-up repair, and is also far more time-consuming and expensive.

Looks darn good. I think most people would be happy with this kind of repair. I know I would.

After sanding you should've put some clear coat in it to level it out. But for demonstration purposes this was great. If you do this to your own vehicle. Try to use the same type of paint that is on the vehicle. Single stage, base clear, tricoat, whatever is on the vehicle. The more time you put into it, the better it can look. And it's definitely better than painting the entire panel. Especially if it's a classic car. Repairing original paint is always better than a respray. Paint is only original once

I’ve learned that a lot of us have been taught wrong, adding uv clearcoat in equal parts to the paint and premixing yields incredible results and you can fix to nearly perfect results.

I've been doing touch up and paint repair for 25 years, almost all customers are happy because they don't want to repaint a large portion of their car.

I used this approach a couple weeks ago and it worked great.

That came out a lot better than I thought it would, and definitely a lot faster and cheaper then the correct way of doing it. Another fantastic video, Sir. Thank you for making them.

I had a bunch of chips on the front of the hood on a pickup truck I bought. 220,000 MI driving through Florida put a lot of bug scratches in that front of the hood. I washed it with hot water and ammonia so we had a clean base instead of a bunch of crud sanded into it. I put some spot putty on to fill the scratches instead of using paint. I sanded everything smooth very lightly and did like you did on the scratch but I was sanding down the putty. I mixed up some primer and put that on with the brush over the parts that were puttied.I taped and curled up masking paper back and I give it a couple light coats of white paint also. I let that dry for about a day I was afraid of the shrinkage on that spot putty. Then I went ahead and wet sanded it. I kind of sanded through the paint so I had had to clean it and spray it again. Look good when I was done hit it again with a spray and then was a coat of cheap clear I had laying around. I buffed it out it looked decent but I had to buff because I had overspray back towards the masking paper. That was in 2008 and that truck and I still have the truck now. It still looks real good. I thought that clear coat with a yellow but it never did.

I just wanna say THANK YOU! Your videos have been a holy grail of learning and information ... the way your videos are detailed to the point and imformative have made it so much easier to understand and repeat the processes shown ... i have been restoring a 01 ram 1500 ( canadian rust bucket) for 4 years and im finally on the last legs to having it completed 98% done by myself / with friends and these videos have helped me so much along the way 👌🙏

Good stuff Bud!! I've done that a few times, it works good but it's a process that can't be rushed!!☻

Scrape the touch up flat with a razor blade like you would a run then go through the same steps. Saves a lot of time and mitigates the risk of burning around the touch up. I've also had awesome luck mixing the paint slightly hot touching it up then using a plastic razor to scrape it flat while still wet.

You're right Jerry..it looks better than a big chip. Have a great weekend..

Did this several times back in the single stage acrylic enamel days. Had to dab it in over several days. Repair was undetectable.

I've tried this with a two stage mix from the paint shop, it's hard to get it right but better than a paint chip, couple of them were perfect, rest had outlines, even used a pin to dab the paint in the smaller ones, came out okay

It can be done perfectly, but depends on the colour. Metallixs and pearls are difficult. And you should do it 2 stage. The colour first, then the lacquer. Let the lacquer harden oroperly, build it up high. Then you need to blade it off flush before sanding it with 1200/1500 then 3000. Instead of lacquer, you can also use clear glue with activator. That speeds up the whole process. I have done this millions of times.

For what it is it came out alright. Looks better than a chip. If haters want perfection then spend the $$$ and get the respray done. Thanks for sharing your upload it's appreciated by those of us curious to try

Sanding the edges lightly and using a couple coats of filler primer, then paint and then clear would probably give better results

The Immediate answer is literally yes you can!! Literally the exact way to fix a chip.

I did a similar repair on my car and got similar results with the exception of it being a little higher as opposed to lower for the repair. In typical base coat clear coat have to remember there is only a tiny amount of clear to work with and while it may look close if you measure the clear its really easy to burn thru. For a cheap repair i would be happy with your end result but if your picky respray is the only way to go. Great job!

Finally. someone doing a video with paint, not a kit. Kits don't work with custom colors. And extra points for using safety goggles!

I have gotten a syringe and used that to fill in the chips, works nice.

I really like this concept since anybody can do it and the end result is much better than a rust spot that will only grow. I’m by no means a body repair technician, but I would’ve sanded very lightly with a dremel first and perhaps put a dab of rust eliminator, or trim clad in the hole before the finishing paint.

Good experiment. That could be an acceptable fix for a daily driver.👍

I have this exact problem in white on a fully restored 67 Bonneville convertible. Thanks!

Hi all, in my opinion this is the correct way of fixing a chip like this, not filling and respraying the panel, because to a good eye the respray you can pick up too, either slightly different shade, gloss, coverage etc. But you have to be really patient with this method, slowly building up the paint, you can cut down a sanding block and literally just sand the area which helps. I have used this method for years and do it right, right sanding through the grades, right polishing etc I have got them just about perfect, takes alot of time though, start to finish about 3 days, not continuous of course, just building up layers, waiting for paint to dry, sanding, polishing .

Never hurts to try something new! I'd be happy with that repair on all but my newest vehicle. Good content as usual.

Dr. Color Chip. Their paint match is excellent. Great results in minutes.

DAP Dynaflex 230. If you can't find it use any equivalent elastomeric latex. Dynaflex Ultra is newer and probably better as it's more flexible and UV resistant. Both are paintable within an hour, come in multiple colors (clear if unsure), and waterproof. However 230 due to being a bit less flexible is able to handle gaps up to 1 inch whereas Ultra covers up to 1/2". All these fancy fillers are using the chemical compound of this. As a matter of fact DAP makes custom colors of this very product under Dynaflex 920. For clear coat I would recommend Angelus Leathee

Alot better then just dabbing the paint in. Might guve this a try on some paibt chips I got.

Make me think of the old saying, "You never know till you try."

USE A HEAT GUN BETWEEN COATs......it will dry faster so you can build it thicker.

Change comes from trying new things, thank you Jerry!

I've always wondered about this process. You saved me alot of time. Thanks

Only see it if your looking for it .awesome man

Nice result. With more drying time and less aggressive buffing could be phenomenal.

I did a simler repair on chip a few years ago, turned out very good, only thing I did different I built up the chipped area up with a little primer 2 coats

Good video. I am in the process of attempting this on a motorcycle fender right now.

I watched all of these types of videos it's never perfect

Using a razor blade works much better to cut it down to the surface. Do the sandpaper draw trick to the razor blade to give it a hook on the edge and just drag it across. Peels off runs very well and dead flat.

Great job Jerry once it is outside i'm sure it won't be noticeable!

Good enough for my 07 Taurus !

That not bad for doing that way. The stuff I get good results from is Langka blob remover. You have to use the touch up paint in the bottle but works good no sanding needed. Doesn’t hurt the clear coat. Worked better on my Mustang than my Subaru the Subaru touch up paint dry too hard.

Look much better than the chip especially on white thank you for the video Jerry sty safe

I've had similar results. We used to do it with gel coat on boats all the time, it was a lot easier because gel coat is a whole lot thicker than paint and gives you more to sand down before going through

0:37 Need to prep the chip. Sand the edges. You have sharp corners on the chip, and they are higher than the rest of the paint because of the rock impact. Not to mention clean and degrease.

No free lunch , nice experiment !

Stayin’ on top is usually a good thing.

A friend of mine said that a ziptie pointed end is perfect for touch ups. Try it! =) Also, a shark blade by Mirka might be useful for cutting the paint down flat. Particularly if you fix a base clear scratch, I'd guess you would sand the spot lightly to dull the clear, dab your touch up into the chip, fill with clear, cut down if possible with the shark blade or festool blade (carbide blade) and then lightly sand and polish. I bet you could do pretty well with that technique. Nice vid, appreciate it. A basic touch up is plenty for many cars.

Always enjoy the education! Thumbs up!

I know it's not perfect but it is sealed and looks much better. To me, preventing rust is most important, followed by not looking like a dirtbag with a wiped out vehicle.

I've filled in smaller chips on Mercedes black pearl metallic paint that was practically imperceptible. It takes time and patience. The key was to let the paint dry thoroughly before building up the next lacquer layer. When I was near level, I filled in the rest of the way with the OE clear coat paint. Hand/finger buffed to level- no sanding. In a shop it might take 3-7 days, so that may not be suitable for a production environment.

There's actually a decent tool for filling chips - called a Fine Line Painting Pen. It really helps to not over-fill the chip - less risk of cutting through the paint around the chip when you're blocking and buffing.

Going to try this with stone chips on my single stage gloss black paint, see if its good enough save on a respray

heat gun the area first before painting it may help, curing the paint quickly to dry faster. tape around the area before sand will help from damaging paint in the area you are sanding

An awl or pick works great for touch up also. just regulate amount of droplet and guide around chip edges. Agreed if you had more time to let paint setup its easier to sand, not being rubbery eases sanding.

Looks alot better.

I usually apply clearcoat over it after it dries. Then sand and buff

Adding some layers of clearcoat would help build up thickness and help with the sanding and polish matching.

White paint is probably the easiest color to get a greater than 90% improvement for paint chip touch-ups.

have anyone tried using filler to build it up and finishing with spraycan? specially for metallic paints

Great job! Thanks for your practical paint repair tips for Common Folks- You earned my subscription-

Great video! It kind of looked like the new paint in the gouge continued to shrink after it was sanded flat.

Angelus leathee clear coat. Better than any of these companies

I have used this method a few times with varying rates of success. To ensure I kept on top of the new paint when sanding, I used the Dolphin Glaze trick that is used for paint runs. Some colours work well, others don't. In some cases I am sure it would be quicker to repaint the panel, but this way costs nothing.

I liked it. When it was high I was thinking that the glazing putty trick they do with runs may have helped. Good vid though.

on little chips I found it better to use a dremel to even and polish out before using a bigger mop

Great video! Following your advice, building up the paint and letting it dry for a while might yield slightly better results, but for the cost of this touch up? Looks substantially better than before. Going to give this a try in the spring! I can’t possibly make my bumper and worse than it is! 🤣

Nice tip that I'm going to try.

In all fairness, white is the hardest color to match.

Answer is yes. But it will be a perfectly smooth light or dark spot.

I tried something like this for days. Unfortunately the chip/scratch was on the plastic bumper. After several attempts I gave up. Fortunately, the scratch was on a part of the bumper that would look good with a small vinyl decal. Hid the scratch and personalized my car. Not the optimal solution but as a friend said. Hey it looks factory...😃

Thats a great repair Jerry. Certainly looks way better. I have many chips on various vehicles. 🙄

Try the factory touch up paint and the Langka kit.

i use bondo to fill

👍🏻Looks good! For a Low cost alternative.

I always use a little filler first, then paint with brush, works better. Paint is not so thick. I have been doing this for years.

Looks better than it did

Good skills, you should have used primer and clear coat to make it perfect. I did it and it's lasting well. Harder with the grey color

the result you got is usually about the best you are going to get from single stage paint, something i used top do was clean the chip with take a new soft toothbrush dipped in grease and oil solvent to make sure there was no contaminants that could highlight the edge of the chip and a lot of the time i would dab in a layer of color tinted primer to build up the chip then after that dried i'd spray the chip and surrounding paint with Jam it door jamb prep then dab in a layer of base followed by multiple layers of clear to bring surface level, wet sanding and buffing clear works way better then sanding and buffing color coat, do they even make anything like jam-it anymore???

very thoughtful

Thank you Jerry . Love your videos. Beautiful job .

That's the same color too! Arctic white.

As you said, trying to get the right level with paint is difficult. What is your opinion of filling with a glaze putty on a deep chip before paint?

I think 2 coats of Base & 4 coats of clear would of blended better... Using All paint causes a shadow ring-- no matter what.. Also, Masking off a 1/2 inch around the Chip.. When, using less >1000 grit will prevent needlessly Scratching or Gouging up the surrounding surface. 😊👌

use 1k komby putty to fill the chip then touch it up and buff. it works much better

I think adding primer or bondo first would help blend it.

looks really good!

What about a heavy duty dropper or a small turkey baster to pour on the paint/harder mix, granted while the door is on a level surface. Just a thought

I wanted know if I use touch up paint, after sanding should I then apply a clear coat or just use the buffing compound like what used in the video. I guess I’m a little confused on the difference between clear coat and buffing compound. Like do the touch up paint, then sand and then do clear coat. After all that then I do the buffing?

not terrible... why not sand some first, airbrush in the touchup paint for some blend effect, and follow with 2k in a can clear, then sand? sanding on a basecoat that has metallic is normally something I avoid. Might even be able to get a proper wet -> wet window. This is still all under $100-150, quite approachable for the average joe. Assuming you can figure out how to wetsand. (I learned by blocking out and finishing work for a new painter's first few cars ahahhahaha what a pain, but good way to learn, pretty low risk. Airbrush is a really useful little tool for small stuff, it's a mini turbine HVLP essentially. May not match factory but it'll beat a brush tip. I need to try a 2k product in one for touch ups/spot jobs. I usually just get the spray cans, so convenient. And for $20-25 each, not horribly expensive. Isn't a lot of product, but the time saved not carrying around a full gun setup, everything to clean it, etc etc is wayyyy worth it for things like headlights. (Also something that is more tolerant of imperfections, aren't going for 100% glass- just need the protection for the headlight plastic.

You can still Get it to the level of the paint so you can blend it well

Should have used primer to fill it in and a small piece of sandpaper glued on a pencil eraser tip.hand buff and polish.

just a little quick fill then paint .

Great video! I do something similar but use clear to build it up works pretty well. Keep up the good work!

Nice Slayerish riff 🎸

Looks quite good overall! Thank you!

Good job 👍

Like you said letting the paint cure for several days with the help of a heat gun and lightly buffing with a dual action polisher on low speed would have yielded better results. Rotary buffers cut way to fast.