Thanks, you're welcome.

Thanks for the comment Jan, hope the job goes well. Happy Rovering!

+kimblewood No problem, happy to help. Thanks for watching, Phill.

Thanks, there is still quite a bit to be done mechanically. The steering relay needs changing, I had a go at jacking it out of the chassis but no go.... will let it soak for a bit and have another go some time. It could really use a new gearbox though, it's just so noisy and gets very wearing on a long run. Next job is to replace all the brake cylinders and flexible pipes. Phill.

***** lol, look after your Land Rover and it will look after you!

Thanks! isn't editing wonderful....

+Sask Series Not a problem, making the videos is just another part of my interest in mechanical things.... it's always good to hear they are useful to someone. I believe the Series 2 has a slightly different arrangement for the clutch cylinders, there are various different set ups; though plenty have been fitted with Series 3 running gear. The grommet is a good idea, I used a standard cutter so finding one suitable should be easy. Cheers, Phill.

+steamwally Hi Phill, Yes I believe the clutch slave cylinder is on the other side of the transmission housing to that of your Series 3, but I would think a similar process to replace. I inherited my Series 2 project and all of the pedals were in a box in the back. Will be fun to finally get this all back together again. Cheers!

+Adam Gamble Hi Adam, sorry to hear your having trouble. Firstly, is the new master cylinder a quality item? I have heard a few tales of faulty new Britpart cylinders for example. How was the the system bled? It is possible to damage the piston seals by pressure bleeding if too much pressure is put on the reservoir, although it's rare. You could always try bleeding the system again, I have used the normal method in the past but a pressure bleeder on about 8psi works well. What sort of symptoms does it give - is the pedal firm or spongy or no resistance at all? Have you tried adjusting the master cylinder push-rod? If not, remove the clutch pedal box cover and have a go, measure where it was first so you can always put it back how it was if that isn't the trouble. Do you know that the slave cylinder is OK? It's generally good to replace both cylinders at once, some say that replacing one cylinder tends to take out the other. If the system is losing fluid then there is a good chance the seals have had it. After that, the only thing I can think of is to check the slave pushrod, I believe it's secured to the clutch release fork by a plastic clip - having removed the slave cylinder, you should not be able to pull the push rod off the release fork. If you can, it's a gearbox out job to put it back. Good luck, hopefully it's nothing more than simple adjustment required. Phill.

We changed the master because the guy that works on it for him told him both never go out at the same time, I told him BS, it was both. we are rebuilding slave and having trouble with installing the plunger, Thanks.

Best replace both together, or so I was taught anyway. I didn't install seal kits, just changed the cylinders. If you are talking of just re-fitting the slave cylinder to the bellhousing, it should just slide over the pushrod without any trouble. Can you give any more details of the problem?

You should use red rubber grease with hydraulic cylinders and rubber seals.

@@steamwally Thank you, very much appreciated 👍

Fair enough - though the tape isn't on the taper. The clutch hydraulics on Series 3 Land Rovers can be a pain to bleed and eliminating air leaks at the threads during the process can make a difference. I have tried with, and without but each to their own.