Got to say we use it and it’s so much better than the other stuff that hides issues keeps the underbody looking good, would recommend it on newer vehicles especially

Thanks for sharing this. I've been wondering what it was like.

It does a grand job doesn’t it - I’ve been really impressed but great reminder to re-treat in March 👍 All the best, David 👍

lanolin is the oil in sheep's fur that keeps them dry when it rains. in the woolen clothes that we Norwegians wear in the winter, there is also some lanolin left. It transports moisture from the body and out when you are physically active in the winter. I have a Herman that we call Hedda Hymer and is the same model as yours. I've considered doing the same, but haven't gotten around to it. thanks for videos.

Sorry boys and girls but Wayoyl has the edge, spray or brush it on, inside box sections, on exposed underbody parts(other than discs!) and once on, forget about it, otherwise done! It smells ok too, it’s just a bugger to spray on in winter because it’s like lard. It has been around since the Stone Age, and I believe Fred Flintstone used it on his passion wagon! 😊

Ordered a kit now. Thanks for the useful info. Looking forward to using on my 1991 Hymer and 2023 Transporter.

I got advisories about coatings obscuring parts, so do it after the MOT not just before

Good to see this follow up. I did mine with Lanoguard about a month ago. Pleased so far. Must say I avoided jet wash and used a churn brush to clean off as much as possible before applying Lanoguard on to dry but not spotless surfaces and sections. Water is the enemy - especially in box sections! I’ll reapply in a couple of months doing a light dry brush over first and then going straight on top of what’s there from last time. This year I’m taking the van out for a good 30 min run approx weekly whenever it’s dry weather (and preferably warm!) - keeps the damp off the underside! Sprayer quality was my only complaint, but I was using old Lanoguard and their advice is to use it fresh if possible. The box section 360 spray wand was great before it blocked but useless after unblocking. Fortunately I’d done all the key sections by then. Echo the suggestions about getting mudflaps/guards sorted and I’d suggest making sure your bonnet is water tight and not letting rain get into the front end to cause rot whilst sitting - another reason to get out for a good run to dry things out!

Thanks for the update. Appreciate it. 👍😀☘️

Going to have a go with this stuff. Looks great. Thanks

Both lanoguard and Bilt Hamber are excellent products. Personally,I am quite happy to get under my camper van once a year and check it all out, repair whatever is necessary and redo the Bilt Hamber that I use. Light fluid film products like this allow you to see whats going on below the surface and dont trap moisture as waxoyl can do. Your truck looks in good shape underneath. Its easier to keep it that way than to deal with rust once it gets a hold.

Don't forget Lanoguard is a annul application, needing to be done every 12 months. Personally I'd would rather do away with all the rust area's and cover with a good rust eater, red oxide 3-4 coats the zinc cover and of course a rust protection paint. Lanoguard is a bit on the expensive side is my personal view. Another option is barn chain oil, thick and does great. Hand garden sprayer to apply, last 2-3 years. Great to see Herman is still on the go, and I do hope you both enjoyed the Ireland trip. Pity you didn't venture to the north. Stay safe and enjoy.

You can treat the wood as well, lanoguard actually make a timber treatment. I did a test patch on my garden shed and it's still waterproof, I think the wood treatment has a fungicide added but it's basically the same. I gave my old motorbiking leather boots a good soaking as well, the goretex lining ripped and now they stay waterproof! Lanolin is a key ingredient in skincare moisturisers, it's amazing stuff 😁

Hi mate. I'm sure lanoguard is supposed to stay a bit oily. If it feels dry,. I would definitely retreat it. Also, I would lanoguard inside the chassis members through the drain holes. You can get moisture inside them and the lanoguard will help prevent further corrosion (apologies if you did this - it's a while since I watched your vid). I used Bilt-Hamber XB on my underside and whilst its very good, I need to reapply too 🫤

To say that Herman is 5 years older than Nessa he is in better nick underneath. I had to used a needle gun to remove large areas of rust to then treat and then paint over. Once we finally get her back from having her Gearbox fitted, which came in from Mercedes Germany just over a week ago, so should hopefully be soon as I have missed the old girls. I will be looking at Lanoguard to give additional protection to the underside. Will also be interesting to see how my rust removal has held up over the last 6 months. I will be putting her in for an early MOT as well as it always got a bit close to the bone with going away for our main holiday.

❤I think some mud flaps would help, front and rear👍👍

Been looking at lanoguard for my MH as the chassis is very good with no visible signs of flaking rust, it has the odd spot of surface rust but not much which for a 2005 shows it has led a good life in its 23,000 miles If I derusted those parts I would use POR15 as I’ve used it before with good results

It is interesting to see that there is nothing behind the rear wheel to stop mud or water spray to go all over the floor of the vehicle. 🧐

Im a waxoyl fan however i also have a twin motor compressor (that i run on low pressure so i dont fill the garage with waxoyl vapour)and im a fabricator so i remove all rust before the first application. the key to getting waxoyl smooth and nice and thin is heat..... buy a huge stainless 18L cooking pot and a propane cooking ring. Half fill pot with water keep waxoyl and waxoyl sprayer (metal type not the flimsy plastic one) in the warm water, bring to the simmer and keep it simmering during application, on each refill of the sprayer let it rewarm the metal body for 5 mins in the pot, also keep the garage warm and have the vehicle in the garage for a few days with a heater on if poss..... follow these steps and your first application will be a good start. you must now every year check and remove any bits that flake and recoat with a thinned down coat....for this either use 20%white spirit in your melted waxoyl or buy Carplan WaxOil that is thinner from the start. if you get the waxoyl thin it creeps into tight gaps, however dont expect miracles, its not fix and forget, water traps on a land rover are usually seam welded and have a pu sealer applied then etch primmed, primmed, and top coated all in 2k paint and always scotched between coats, my land rovers are daily drivers and get abused, some give them bad press for being rusty crates however they are a glorified tractor like many van/motor homes there are many water traps and as in the case of a land rover they are maintenance heavy. there is no harm in once every 3 mpnths getting on your knees and taking a look, if you catch rust early you can beat it. my 1985 land rover proves these steps work and our new transit custom (now 3 years old) didnt see a single wet mile until i had stripped every componant from the underside and done the steps above in 2 k and waxoyl, also added huge mudflaps and inner mudflaps behind the front wheels, had a look under her the other day....not a single speck of rust on the chassis or the running gear and she is a daily driver for the wife. put the hard work in and it will pay off Wayne😉

Can you fit some kind of mud flaps to to back wheels to stop the road spray hitting the body?

Hi Ads. Really surprising how the underside of your motorhome is in such good condition for its age. I wonder if its worth treating all those small areas of rust before applying your next coat of Lanoguard?

Hi Ads. We enjoy your Vlogs because like you we also have an older motorhome. 'Pippin', a 'Swift Sundance' on a Fiat Ducato chassis will be 20 years old this year. She has 36k miles on the clock from new which is amazing and she runs like a dream. We had the underneath cleaned and under-sealed last year. Any advice on timing belts ? Despite low mileage I guess that age can also play a part in deterioration ? I also guess that it's a belt and not a chain. Any advice ? Love to you and Zoe, Dave and Soph x

Would be interested in a follow up video after it’s been her washed. Wonder if dirt etc sticks to the lanoguard?

Old engine oil and diesel works, kills rust dead. Can’t produce new metal but will stop any advancement of the bug.

What's the advantages of lanoguard over waxoyl?

I've only been doing about 2000 miles per annum the last few years. I apply lanoguard every two years, seems to stiil give good protection over that time.....water still beads off.

Not sure its worth doing to new new m/h but I might well be tempted to spend an afternoon applying some to the old VW.

Sorry if a stupid question, but how and/or where did you jet wash the undercarriage? Where I come from almost every petrol station has a maintenance pit, but I don't remember ever seeing one in the UK. How long did it take you to clean it and long long did you wait between cleaning and applying the solution? Thanks.

Why did you not clean areas of rust of and treat the areas with cure rust first prior to spraying with this lanaguard are they also sponsoring your channel sorry if l have spelt product name wrong

unfortunately, chassis rust from the inside out, spraying the outside which obviously has no or very little rust on it is just a waste of money, you need a product like waxoyl or morris anchorwax spraying on any visible rust outside, but more importantly, inside the chassis boxes where there is no paint or protection! Phil

would you not treat the rusty areas then paint and treat with Lanoguard

Give it a wire brush, paint it with stone chip, then Lanoguard it 😉

Karcher pressure wash before lanogard i think would work

As I’m not there I can’t be exact. But the outriggers are normally bolted to the body.? Some you show have bolts upwards however some have no bolts mounted to underbody. “Any” corrosion within 30cm of load bearing point is a fail or should be at least down as advisory. Interesting video and product seems worth a go👍 Please delete if needed.

I'd rather use Bilt Hambler stuff and do it once

ads if you fitted mud guards you would have no muck thrown up

Axle stands man...

Not impressed TBH, even Lanoguard don't claim it treats rust. It comes across as another KZfaqrs Ponzi scheme. I'll stick with what I know works, Waxoyl and their related products.

I read it attracts rodents but have no idea if this is true. Anyone know for sure?

Lanoguard is a complete gimmick, Do Not Believe It!,, as advertised it is easy to apply but don't let that fool you there really are much better products out there at similar cost if you are prepared to put a little more effort in. It may be slightly better than doing nothing but not much imho!