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I’ve used Lanoguard on my disco and it definitely helped slow the rust. What is good about lanoguard is you see the corrosion. Some rust paints coat the area and as you look under you think, that looks good but under the heavy paint your body or chassis is being eaten. I’m going to give rust bullet a go this week. My disco is a couple years off 20 so who knows how long more she will last. Rust bullet if applied correctly looks like a good job. The one thing about land rovers and early discos was that they are very solid. Compare the body and chassis to a Land Cruiser and there is no comparison.

In Australia, many of us use fish oil - aka Fisholeum - which is actually a fish-lipid / acetone emulsion. The acetone keeps the fish oil super runny, allowing it to flow into all the nooks and crannies. However, the acetone then flashes off, leaving just the fish oil, which eventually skins over and forms an impervious layer. It stinks. Quite a lot, actually. But then it settles and doesn’t smell at all. We don’t salt our roads here but I do have older Italian cars, so I can attest the fish oil’s efficacy; treated areas do not rust.

Used Lanoguard for the first time on my 300tdi last summer - previous to that for five years have used Dinitrol. I live in the Highlands and probably the most salted roads in Britain. Rust comes back on both products and the truck needs to be treated annually. Don't know what to use this summer, but I am edging towards Dinitrol. I dont think that the lanoguard application reaches all the box cavities and as we know, they rust from the inside-out. I know after using Dintrol, though, I haven't needed to do any welding!

My ocd mate did a full chassis off rebuild. He had his chassis acid dipped and treated then painted it the same silver as the body (blenhiem iirc). He regularly washed and polished the car, even underneath. He had to continually use touch up paints because it still rusted. After 10 years he was using waxoyl and still ended up patching the chassis. He got fed up fighting rust and sold it when the bulkhead started to go around the windscreen and door hinges.

Great update cheers. I plan to use Dinitrol penitrator rust proofing cavity wax on the back of my 90 my cross member then seal it with Lanoguard grease. To stop the crud I’ve bought some Gwyn Lewis mud shields. Hope this helps cheers.

I would say that the Lanoguard has not really done a great job (nothing against the product personally). As someone experienced with rust proofing (I do have an 27 year old Jaguar!), a regular annual application of underseal does quite a good job at keeping the rust at bay. At risk areas such as subframes are best wire brushed clean, rust treated and then an application of POR15 (or similar) - and that generally makes things pretty bullit proof. Even so, it is not good enough to just spray it on - subframes need removal and parts dismantled to ensure everything is clean and painted.

Once rust has started it's almost impossible to stop. One of the best treatments is to apply gear oil in the same way the Lanoguard was applied. At 9:49 in the video the pinion leak demonstrates how effective an antioxidant gear oil is. Some mix with grease and spray heated to reduce viscosity this method is commonly used in Canada where salt is used on reads.

Great video and content. As a landrover owner for more years than i can remember is that all these products that work on the visual outside of the chassis is fine but the demise of a chassis is the corrosion inside the chassis, basically rotting from the inside out, due to to water/condensation that cant escape, mud build up, etc. Thats why its so important to try and halt the corrosion inside and apply your preferred wax.

I worked on the 'Defender line' for 20 years, about 19 of those welding the right hand number one outrigger (thats the one right behind the right front wheel) if it has one continuous weld both sides along its seam, I welded it lol. Your 90 chassis has a higher carbon content than the previous boneshakers (leaf springs).

Everyone has their own view on what works best, but I think it all depends on how you treat your Defender (mud wading, stream crossing etc) and how well you maintain it after extreme condition trips. If it is just used for general day to day driving, most treatments will be fine.

No wax will be effective on top of rust. To spray on a new vehicle’s chassis and underbody paintwork, inside and out, it is very effective at sealing the paint for long term protection. The other major benefit can be found by stopping mud and salty road spray from getting to mud traps, such as the rear crossmember and into holes in the side of the chassis adjacent to the tyres. Use grommets and rubber silicone adhesive for the holes and galvanised tin sheet to create mud guards for the rear crossmember. I did all this on my 1984 110 HiCap which spent its 22 year life literally in the cow shìt. However I avoided submerging the chassis in water of any kind as there was almost always a drier route that could be taken. The chassis, including the rear crossmember was almost like new when the vehicle was mechanically worn out and recycled. Only the mid outriggers were getting a bit crusty at that stage. Currently I have two Ford Rangers, a 2014 and a brand new one. Both have been thoroughly treated with a Bilt Hamber wax from new and holes blocked off in the wheel spray areas of the chassis. The 2014 looks great still, where others run in similar conditions by friends are red with rust by their third birthday. I intend to spray some oil on the 2014 soon to re-activate and soften the original wax coating and provide further protection to see it through to its 20th birthday if diesel is still a thing by then.

I have tried many products over the years to protect both new and classic cars and Waxoyle has proven to be the most effective for me. For example, we have a 1996 Range Rover and a 1971 long wheel base Land Rover which are used all year round where the roads are salted in winter. Neither show any signs of rust nor have they ever been welded. In fact, the underside of my old Series 3 looks better than under your Defender as it stands now. Applying Waxoyle is a messy process but once the chassis is thoroughly cleaned, panels and chassis cavities spray injected, chassis and underside components sprayed, it is not difficult to maintain with a little diligence. Periodically, and especially with the Land Rovers, I will scrape and clean any patches that may have rubbed or worn off and re-treat with a brush. So, I certainly recommend trying Waxoyle next time you treat your Defender. Good luck.

'98 Defender 110 that I used a needle gun / wire brush on to remove surface rust, painted with Corroless S2 (Red) rust inhibiting primer, then painted with Corroless QDR3 Glass Reinforced Black rust Inhibiting Paint, then sprayed it with Lanoguard which I top up It holds up really well

Dinitrol all the way 👍🏻 used dinitrol cavity wax and it gets into every single little area you could possibly imagine as it spreads slowly…great for a vehicle that has some early stages of rust on the chassis.

I used Lanogaurd for the first time on my TD5 when we had the first hot spell and had a good few weeks of warm weather. New springs shocks fitted and while the old ones were out a good clean , de-rust , rust converter, paint , left to dry and then a good going over with the Lanogaurd. I thought it was never going to dry and didn’t use the Lany for over two weeks! It has dried to an extent but feels very tacky and road dust , grit is sticking to it. The shiny new springs and shocks have gone dull but I wanted to try it on something that had never seen rust!! I’m interested to see how it is going to look after the winter. The chassis and axles look nice and black and are not coated in thick crap that you don’t know what is going on underneath the mess. Just a quick pointer for wax oil, my friends Defender has just failed its MOT on a rotten rear X member !!!! So called wax oiled from the dealer less than 2 years ago and advertised as being so from new every year .

I used it on my Range Rover. It appears to never dry and the chassis now has a coating of dirt stuck to it. I have used it on internal panels where it will creep into seems and folds in the metal. I think that this is a better use for it.

I have a 2004 bmw e46 m3. I re applied my Lanoguard today as it’s now been just over a year since first application, the tub I bought did 2 applications which was great. I found as I pressure washed and cleaned the car the other day underneath it was still beading water, some orange rust had became visible again in parts as it’s maybe wore off over the past year but that being said it isn’t ideal doing on axle stands but it’s so easy to apply. My car doesn’t do a great deal of miles either roughly 2/3k at most per year, I think I’ll just do it every year regardless, cost, ease of application and finished look is fantastic.

Your steering box is leaking from the seal where the new drop arm is fitted, you can see it drip oil from the ball joint as it runs down from the steering box to the lowest point when you were looking at the front diff, and the dampness you put your finger in on the diff housing is the power steering fluid spraying back onto the diff when your driving. You may have damaged the seal when fitting the new drop arm. As for the lanoguard id say its not done a good job, i use the old tried and tested method of old engine oil mixed with some grease and sprayed on with an air gun, do it every year and get plenty inside the chassis so it runs out and you'll not have too much to worry about, and its free as we all have old oil from your annual oil change.

I drive a 2006 XC70 P2 / Car is a fishing car, so often ends up in fields and grotty tracks. Cannot emphasise the importance of a full clean and de rust prior to application. I cleaned off rust and then applied Vactan painted on to hard use areas, then over painted that with smoothrite, once all that was done it got Lanoguard. As I venture into the car doing various jobs, ie panels off into the crevices, they get cleaned out and a quick spray of lanoguard. I’m old school and always used the heavy black paint on stuff, lano is really easy to apply.

Used the stuff on mine got it through 2 mot as I had advised rust on mot . Worth the money as had enough for 2 applications

Hi Marcus. I have a 1997 Defender 300 Tdi and have removed a lot of rust over recent years. I’ve tried most treatment options, BUT not Lanoguard, and I’m still looking for the perfect solution! I remember the video of you treating it last year but not in detail. My first thought is that preparation is the key and pressure washing the chassis alone is not the answer. You need to remove as much rust as you can before starting any treatment. I use a hammer to get rid of the large flaky bits, then a paint scraper, then a wire brush. Give the area a wipe over with degreaser or similar, let it dry and then 2 coats of Jenolite Rust Converter. After that some etch primer or red oxide and finally a coat of Hammerite Smooth or Satin black. It’s a costly exercise and very time consuming but seems to work.

I find it's definitely best to give it an early top up after the first time you use it, maybe after just 6 months. That way the second layer really thickens up the first layer. After that, annually should be enough but it does of course depend on what sort of usage you do. The beauty of it is it is so easy to apply and it only takes an hour to do a Land Rover chassis inside and out.

I purchased enough LANOGUARD for a Lorry as I wanted to cover Defender 110 and a Delorean. The Defender I did 1/2 of the rear cross member and I can see no sign of it less than a year later. The Delorean Chassis was a full restoration and it was superbly sticky/tacky when done but again I see no sign of the Lanoguard now. They also say you need to treat it EVERY year, if you did that I guess it would be ok but that is a big ask to do each year.

I have always used Waxoil and from this evidence I will continue to do so. Have just used Lanogaurd on my 100hp but will revert to Wax oil. Its also a fraction of the price. I would get some rubber bungs into the holes on your chassis

I thought Lanoguard would last better than that but maybe as some have said a 6 month recoat first time around a good idea. I've just had mine Dinitrol treated again and pleased with how that's protecting my now 20 year old Defender.

I've always found spraying below with waste engine oil, maybe thinned with a little desiel gave the bast results on an already surfaced rusted car.

Back in 2010, I bought a 97 300tdi 90 county from a "horsey lady" in the Midlands. I must say, she was into horses big time, and the underside of the Landy was absolutely encrusted with ...errr horse manure (to be polite) . It had the customary delaminating of the crossmember so I feared for the state of the chassis. No need to though, after I had bribed the kids to jetwash underneath....it was like new..! Even had a couple of stickers intact from the factory. For 13 years the horse muck had kept it mint, apart from the crossmember which needed replacing. So I pondered the idea of using the stuff to protect my beloved. .... but opted instead for a galvanised chassis and stainless steel exhaust on my latest steed.

Have used waxoyl for decades and it works brilliant stuff

Lanoguard in my opinion isn’t the best product but it’s probably because a lot of people don’t prepare their vehicle properly before they apply it and they don’t realise that it’s something you do have to repeat every few months ( they say 6 months but with the new road Salt/Brine solution they use I found 3 months was better ). I own a few LandRovers and 1 is under seal the old fashioned way. 1 is Lanoguard. 1 is Waxoyl. The key to any of them being successful is in the Detail :- A Proper under Power Wash with a Steam Cleaner ( not cold water ). Allowed to Dry. Rust removal and then treatment. Allowed to Dry. Finally the Treatment. So from start to finish about a week and you need somewhere warm and dry for the vehicle to Dry out completely between each phase of the process. Personally for me:- Waxoyl is No.1. Then Underseal. Lanoguard is last I’m afraid but that’s my opinion 🤷‍♂️.

I did my Mitsubishi pick up underneath with about 5 cans of motorcycle chain lube which has a solvent in it which helps it penetrate and spread until it then dries to a fairly thick / robust layer of grease / oil and it has been very , very effective !!!! and pretty cheap ...

I have just used lanoguard on my Nissan Navara (2012). I have used waxoyl in the past and found the lanoguard much easier and actually less messy! I have no special ramps or lifts or other equipment to get under my truck, so it is always bit of a chore but I can cope with the smell better than the tar like blobs I had before! Also the fact that I didnt need to use my dads pressure system to deliver it was also a huge bonus. I will be doing it again in lanoguard after the winter - so twice a year - just in case I missed some! in reality it is probably more about what equipment you already have which will deliver the stuff to the chassis. Early days, but in terms of application, lanoguard wins out for me.

I've tried all sorts in the past and currently i have a Range Rover and Defender...... the Defender i used Lanoguard but i came to the same conclusion as you, the spray is great for inside boxsections etc but a little weak, i brushed the grease on to the axles, chassis rails and all the heavy wear areas. I mean it took a while to do but it's been on two years and i would probably get one more winter out of it. As for my Range Rover i used Rust Buster products, i steam cleaned the whole underside thourghly, gave it a good wire brush to get all the loose stuff off then sprayed on FE123 converter and left it for a ful day (middle of summer), i then aplied there Techshield waxoil thourghly. I'd say it was three times the price but it looks the same now two years later as it did when i put it on. Btw both cars are everyday drivers all year round in Peakdistrict.

What was the product from buzzweld you used. Love the finish on the cross member. Think I’ll be going with the lanoguard on both my defender and t4 dub. #moneypits

Be interested to know when you do a 2nd treat how a appears 6 months later especially in the areas that have shown surface rust again after the first year. Maybe test those areas with the grease for added protection.

Can remember 30 odd years ago a chap I met on my post round fabricated a STAINLESS STEEL chassis!!! Bet its still goin well...

With rust proofing it’s simple the more you put in the more you get out of it but I think for the amount of effort it takes to apply you can’t really beat lanogaurd it’s almost enjoyable! re applying is also just as straight forward. Un like alot of traditional products.

Just watching your video about lanoguard. Think Youd be better off using Bilt Hamber spray on wax. I used it on my Land Cruiser and it does not come off. Gives a really nice satin black wax finish.

Hi. I’m not sure if it’s just the camera angle, but it looked like the lock tab on the drop arm has only been bent up around the nut. The other side of the washer needs to be bent around a flat part of the arm, otherwise in effect the nut can come lose and the washer simply rotates with the nut. This was picked up on a MoT test to me. You definitely don’t want the arm coming lose or dropping off😮

I'm not too impressed with the results, I personally think you would have been better using Waxoyl, you can also do inside cross members with the wand they supply. You will find it lasts an awful lot longer than 1 year.

The lanoguard doesn't look to bad, but I'd definitely say it needs a top up after every 6 months. Road salt & mud will strip most spray on protective materials.

I use indasa Black underbody spray its all you need to protect land rover chassis and hydraulic oil spray inside the chassis

The problem with all these proprietary finishes is exactly the same they are a finish and finishes have to be reapplied and that has to be upon a prepared surface. It is the nature of the problem. That is why on working vehicles for my lengthy lifetime many people sprayed old engine oil underneath. It is not pretty but it penetrates , does not wipe off, gathers dirt but has a residual function when hosed off and can absorb another similar coat without having to revert to bare metal. It is also relatively cheap can be done at home with a cheap paint sprayer or paraffin sprayer but will take some surface preparation of the ground you are working on. If you want your Rover as a city car probably not for you but if you have a working machine of any sort a view still worth considering. Remember, vintage and classic vehicles survive best in areas where oil coating protected them. The advantage of the type of products recommended is not for the customer but for the manufacturer of the patented item and process.

Sikagard-6220 or 6220S Sprayable, high penetrating cavity wax is a superior rust prevention product that is my 'go to' rust protection.

I've been looking at Lanoguard and trying to decide if it's worth trying it on my, erm........LandCruiser....Ooer Mrs!😂I Waxoyled it when I bought it 18 years ago and wish I hadn't bothered. These days I treat any surface rust with Aquasteel which, so far, seems to be doing a good job. I also use aerosol motorcycle chain lube in exposed areas. It's cheap, transparent, sticks like STAB and doesn't harden and flake of like some products do. I might try out the Lanoguard inside the chassis rails/members.

I did my Discovery 4 with it, not overly impressed, it seems to stay sticky , I left it for 4 days to dry and still sticky, I would use it inside the chassis but not on the outside.

Have a look at Buzzweld UP or their new one which i think is called chassis guard. UP goes hard, and is clear so you can see what is going on. I wasn't a fan of lanoguard, attracted mud to my chassis and was a real pain to clean off. Really like the more 'permanent' buzzweld solutions like RE and WAR, but their budget options are on point too.

The best bit you showed was the rear done with Buzzweld, 3 years ago. Maybe the answer is right there for under your truck?

hi, back in the day i used Waxoyl which kept rust a bay, my vehicle was hardly used off road, pre 1970 the l/rover chassis were stronger, since BL took over the Rover car company thats when troubled started

The problem is the quality of the steel these days. I bought a 20 year old series 2 1965 from the isle of wight, company owned workhorse, no love or attention. Most of the chassis still had its original black pant in tact. Where it was missing paint, surface rust formed but then stopped to proceed to deep and flaky corrosion

you would think landrover would actually be bothered to protect their rotting chassis from the production lines, after spending £££££ on these rust buckets

Whatever happened to good 'ol 'Ziebarting' My 1980 TR7 was Ziebarted from new (ish) and has never had any welding, always dry stored. Only last year I went to town on the back underneath to smarten it up & refresh. (I know Ziebart is a brand of waxoyling)

Honestly, if you want to protect your front outriggers and rear crossmember take a look at the inner arch guards that Gwyn Lewis supply, keeps the weather and stones off both areas, protects your footwell as well, not even expensive, Tersbaek TV have a video on here showing instalation. As for crossmember paint, try Jotun Jotamastic, it's epoxy and is made for boat hulls, it's really forgiving where prep is difficult and sticks like mad ,can be brushed or rollered, being an epoxy it won't let rust spread underneath if chipped , just done a 130 chassis with it, very impressed. I don't reckon much of the Lanoguard, you'd be better off cleaning the chassis, using a good rust killer and either painting and Dinatrol or just Dinatrol, my 93 chassis looks better and I just touch that up with waxoyl when needed. 👆

I have used Lanoguard on machinery and motorcycles and I think that it has worked well but it does need topping up. Loose rust crust or dirt crust is never going to work with any product as the treated area falls off with the crust , one thin coating wont soak right through thick rust. Areas which are 'gritblasted by roadspray might need fairly regular topping up. My biggest success was a Suzuki Bandit 55k miles of all weather commuting alloy getting those little white spots soon after cleaning every time and the whole bike just looking tired even after polish etc LANOGUARD was a revolution bike looked a millon dollars hot pressure washer after a few months , off with the the dirt and the lanoguard then retreat. Simples.

Bought my 110 Utility new in 2015. It was Waxoyled by the dealer before I took delivery and redone by them every year for another five years. I used Lanoguard on it myself last year and it’s virtually rust free. I’ve also liberally sprayed inside every nook and cranny I could find with some other stuff but can’t remember what that was.

climb under your car and if it is reasonably clean and rust free forget these coatings, paint it, brush and spray, Some areas can be clear coated when you want to keep the appearance, IE coloured coil-over springs, cloured callipers etc, but sway bars, drop links, wishbones, floor pans etc paint is the best and you can keep spraying a bit on now and then, a lot of these new coatings are impossible to clean off and won't allow paint and other coatings to adhere, today's materials are tomorrows problems, if it was that good the fourth bridge would be coated with it and not paint. your dif seal is leaking

Needle gun the rust, flat disk it a tiny bit, phosphoric-acid it until you get back to rust free metal, etch primer, and then brush on two or three layers of paint. The rust on the bottom outside of the chassis rail is the worst because that’s where they rot through from the inside. The only way to stop the inside rotting is a primer coat of engine oil. (And to be honest that works best if the chassis is upside down.) lanogaurd and waxoil and all of these only work on paint as a very good sealer and they don’t work at all on rust. The only thing that ever did was red-lead paint :o)

Any product washes off. We've tried them all. You have to top up all the sharp edges twice a year depending what conditions the vehicle is exposed to. We now use a chain grease spray can which is just £6 by Granville. My 2003 Rover 75 has 210k miles and still clean underneath. 😊

i done mine with dinitrol 2 years ago it looks the same as it did when i put it on mot man said it looks like new lol

In my teens a very long time ago I took a job in a garage, serving fuel mainly, remember those days?! In the workshop there was an old and very skilled (by the standards of the day) mechanic who at every MOT would spray the undersides of the cars with old engine oil then let them stand to drip dry over a graveled area created for the purpose, a lot of old cars used that garage. I build steel yachts, you need to look at the paint systems they use, owners would get mighty pissed off if rust showed after only a year!

I'm moderately impressed as this is an honest review without sponsorship BS. I treated my 25yr old 300tdi (then) with dinitrol about 3 years ago and not impressed. The external treatment flaked off despite proper prep and cleaning. This lanoguard stays greasier so it is already ahead on points. I may give it a go..

Some chassis are galvanised and that is good for a few years. Paint from the factory is not done very well and therefore not worth doing. I sprayed the chassis of my Sprinter Motorhome and now need to check to see if it has done anything at all, it was a dipped paint job and it was new when I did it.

Did you get the truck up on a ramp, or just rolling around on the floor when you did yours? I was going to lanoguard mine but still umming and arring…..Lanoguard looks easier to apply without needing a ramp though?

Lanoguard is all hype & advertising,, it's easy to do and I've tried it but it's really not that much than doing nothing other than easing your conscience for a while when it looks clean initially. if you want to protect exposed chassis from road spray & debris you need to clean it up properly, remove scale & wash off salts then use something like Dinitrol 4941 or Bilt Hamber UB for exposed external chassis and 3125 or Dinitrol UC or similar for internal sections.. Lanoguard really just covers it up for a short time & washes away with road spray. I'm Not sponsored, I tried it but found Dinitrol & Bilt Hamber are miles better products esp if you take time under your vehicle prepping why not do it properly for a little more effort & ££ it will look a lot better after years than this.

the oil off the sheep is called lanolin hence the brand name lanoguard. it smells odd but is great for your skin i know first hand as a New Zealand farmer

I like the idea of a product from natural materials, should leave your hands nice & soft too. But I'm not sure I would be that pleased with the result. I would have expected Waxoyl to fair better.

Its the next best thing. If i had a defnder on its original chassis thats what i would do

Fluid film seems to work well. Like Lanoguard but much cheaper.

Been thinking of doing this to mu jimny but does this not just seal the rust in?

I don't think its worked that well TBH, i'd use something else next time!

I won't be using Lanoguard again, i drenched the underside of my Capri and ancient 911. Within less than 3 months both cars were showing signs of the dreaded corrosion getting worse than ever. I prepped religiously and applied on a red hot summers day, left to dry for a couple of days, it looked great at 1st, but it just doesn't do what it says does. Went back to Dinitrol

Great video. Thank you. I just finished applying Lanoguard to my 4x4. Easy to use but the spray nozzles all blocked up. Lucky I managed to finish the job. Has anyone got any tip re: nozzles?

Great video

What Landy's need is a sacrificial anode - or a chassis as it's known in the biz?

Galvanised chassis is the only cure. The rest of the alloy to steel corrosion is just built in. They've never heard of dissimilar metal corrosion.

TBH what I do every year is buy three tins of cavity wax I prefer 3M ,at the end of the summer I get under the car and power wash it and tackle any small rusted areas then spray everything with Cavity wax spray it contains Lanolin anyway, this year I did not need to do the car absolutely zero rust from the previous year 2021 still a strong thick coating of wax thats doing its job £28 spent vs the cost of Lanoguard £100.

Looks to me it has evaporated away in a lot of places. Probably good if it's done annually, but is that what you really want. Still need a prouct that stays moist

1991 Def. Orig rails . Rear x member replaced , all ouriggers replaced , 2020 and 2021whole shooting match sprayed with used engine oil , 2022 used Lanoguard for the 1st time . Mid 2023 Lanoguarded again and there was sod all corrosion apparent . Vehicle used every day only goes off road up a short track to horse's field , personally think how and where they're used has a lot to do with it . Not averse to trying summat else but have loadsa Lano left.

Lanoguard have done a great job of creating a viral product through social media marketing, targeting people who wouldn't have used anything previously. My experience though is that it just isn't that great. It's telling that they now call it an 'annual treatment', whereas before they used to suggest it would last significantly longer. Personally if you've got a brand new car something like Dinotrol is a good option because you're not putting it onto rust (which will always limit staying power), but my preference for not-new cars is Bilt Hamber Dynax which just seems to work so much better than Lanoguard despite being a 'similar' lanolin based product.

I used it once 7 months later it had washed off, now using marine grease applied with a paint brush.

If it’s already rusty you’re going to get benefit but the best thing to do is to properly treat the rust then maintain.

Old engine oil......gloves and a rag and wipe all over the chassis......you will be impressed and its a great way of recycling some of your waste oil. Ever noticed why the chassis never goes rusty where the engine/gearbox oil leaks are! If you do re lanoguard it, dedicate a small area of the chassis and leave it untreated....then at a later date you can check to see if the Lanoguard really is working or not.

Presumably it's basically lanolin and works by excluding air. Oil-based stuff works the same way.

Won’t be using Lanoguard on my Grenadier. Whilst it’s still new and clean, I’ll have it professionally steam cleaned and Waxoiled (or similar/better product). Lanoguard, in my opinion, is more snake oil than proven prevention. As previous comments say, preparation is key. A good grit blaster (and I mean good) can clean all the underside, including nooks and crannies in under half a day, then spend an hour blowing out any remaining grit, leaving you with clean bare metal for lots of coats of your desired primer, paint, rust preventer, wax oil etc. I blasted a fleet of salt spreaders for a local council. Grit blast, etch prime, zinc phosphate base, two pack paint (three coats over two weeks, then as much Wax oil as the chassis would take. Nothing removed from the vehicles apart from taping up lights and sensors.

I prefer waxoil have used it since the 70s

I’d say that the answer to that is a big YES - I wouldn’t bee happy with that level of re-rusting against what they claim it does- was thinking about buying it but this has put me off

Fresh engine oil or gear oil every time and don't wash all the dirt off; the dirt soaks up the oil and forms a coat that is not easily dislodged. It lasts a long time. Avoid rubber bushes and hoses etc. It generally attracts an MOT advisory : 'under side coated' which is better than: 'underside severely rusting'

I have been doing annual Lanoguard for 8 years and my Landie 110 is rust free underneath.

I had a brand new 2WD single cab Hilux 240D in January 2004 . The paint started dropping off the chassis within the first 12 months. After 262,000 miles , 1 broken Torsion bar , two sets of front wishbone pans rotted , 1 alternator due to worn bearing at about 245,000 miles , 2 new batteries at 210,000 miles . Unfortunately tin worm rotted the chassis which cost £1000 to get it through its MOT . I kept it for another 2 years until 2021 . It had all its original exhaust, brake discs ,drums and rear shoes. It had regular oil changes and never let me down . The engine was as sweet as a nut up to the day I sold it . Unfortunately I didn’t cavity wax the chassis . I don’t think it’s just Land-rovers, the paint that manufactures put on the chassis of new vehicles is just a token protection and is not meant to last years unfortunately. I have a new 2021 single cab Hilux and have heavily coated the underside and all of the chassis in Bilt-Hamber clear cavity wax . It remains to be seen if it stops long term corrosion, unfortunately I think a lot of the corrosion is already in the steel when you buy the vehicle, in the form of impurities.

Maybe a couple of treatments will build up and be more effective. It looks like you use the car for its purpose so there will be more material hitting the frame than the average

The best and cheapest alternative to dinitrol , lanoguard , fluid film etc is Bar and Chain oil. It is tacky ,so stays on , and contains a rust inhibitor.

I have never tried this method before, but I have heard good results can be had with regular brush applications of old engine oil. I guess that is not great for looks or the environment though. Lanoguard seems decent but sadly not a cure for the rust scurge. Shame.

land rover chassis rust from the inside out ,,,, im not sure if lanogaurd is fireproof or not , I use acf50 as it wont catch fire when your in welding . rusting is the one thing land rovers do better than anything else.

What sould I use in a 27 years old Mercedes? I dont think it has ever had eny sorts of un-rust treatment.

A good power wash and a spray coat of burnt oil

Dont bother, wire brush and paint it. Underseals form a crust layer that disbonds from metal and the water lives between the two and rots in silence.

My farmer friend told me on good authority years ago, that when he’s been working with sheep, there’s something in the Lanolin which got the farmers wife ‘going’. A well known ‘fact’ apparently. Not sure if you’ve experienced any problems with being harassed in car parks?!

I met Mark of Lanoguard the other week: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6dkgs11zbTNmmw.html

My 24 year old Isuzu has less rust than that. I have been using lanoguard for 4 years and it's working perfectly, I've just gone over the dry looking areas every 6 months or so. I do wonder why people pay cash amounts of cash for any LR, given that they are slow, heavy, not the best offroad, and rot away in no time.

Lanoguard is only temporary, it's just an owner putting off the real problem, i'd rather just do it properly and get rid of the rust once and for all..