The biggest question I have is how to know that a shoe is the right fit for you. I'd quite like some tests that you can do to see if a shoe is an appropriate fit for your foot. What are the parts you need to squeeze and tug at to properly assess? And what are the spots you don't need to worry about being too tight because they'll loosen, versus the spots that if they're not comfortable on day 1 then they'll never be suitable? It feels like getting a shoe that is the perfect fit is probably more important than one that absolutely satisfies the style of climbing (e.g. I can climb edges in a well fitting soft pair, but not in a poor fitting stiff pair, or I can heel hook in a basic shoe that fits me well even if the heel cup isn't massively designed for that).

Another awesome video. And great timing too! Currently looking for a pair that's pretty versatile..

Fantastic video! You covered all the topics!

An excellent guide, i wish I'd had this when i started

I'm surprised you never got into different foot-shapes. That was something I didn't know about in the beginning and it seems really important! Some shoes just do not suit me at all and it's purely because they are too wide and the toe-box is wrong for the shape of my feet. One size doesn't fit all, and I think probably a lot of people just read about how good a shoe is and expect it to work for them when it might just not be a shape that suits them.

I'm climbing/bouldering for 3 months now and finding the right shoe, that fits my foot was the biggest challenge so far... I started out with a pair of Tarantula Boulders and now moved onto something more aggressive, more precise and more soft. The biggest problem is: I have a very small heel, prelly low instep, but regular/wide forefoot and long toes with a heavy egyptian/roman profile (after the second toe they curve down a lot). So with most shoes I tried, I ran into the issue that either the heel is too baggy (like there was no shoe where I had no dead space in the heel at all) and felt horrible when heel hooking - or the heel was kinda ok, but the toe box was so excrutiatingly painful (especially on the big toe, jamming into the upper toehook rubber patch) that I can barely step on a foothold without pain. Right now I wear the Ocun Havocs and I like them quite a lot -> rather soft, great for smearing, the last is shaped heavily towards the big toe (most other shoes I tried from LS, Scarpa and Ocun were shaped more towards the second toe and for my feet that is not optimal), moderately downturned, decent performance when clawing into very overhanging footholds. This shoe is surprisingly comfortable, can wear it like for almost 1h straight without too much pain - only taking it off occasionally to let my foot breathe. But sadly, the heel is not as good as I would have wished for - it's still a bit baggy and if a route demands for a solid heel hook, then it always feels kinda bad with this shoes. Other than that I can use this shoe for anything - except maybe slab with microscopic footholds - since the Havoc is pretty soft and spending a lot of time on very small holds quickly becomes painful on the toes - I guess this will improve with more experience and stronger toes. But still the heel hooks are the main problem with this shoe. - whenever I know a heelhook is crutial, I switch to my Ocun Bullits - way more aggressive and painful on my feet, the last is just not centered around the big toe as much as I would have wanted it. But it's a great shoe for clawing into holds at overhands and provides significantly more support on small footholds. Wish I would find something similar to the Havocs, with maybe a bit more downturn and a more narrow heel - so I would feel better when climbing overhang - but which still feels good enough on the toes that I don't need to take the shoes of after every boulder, but maybe only after 5-7 boulders...

Perfect timing, I currently need to change mine

Great informative video, as always. Addendum: resoling is caring!

The full plastic bag method has it's use - when you have a hot (painful) spot on a toe or your foot because the fit isn't quite perfect for your foot, the reduction in friction the bag provides really helps with that. I wouldn't suggest climbing this way, more, sitting with them on at home to give the shoes a bit of stretch to get used to your feet. Another classic is having a shower with your brand new climbing shoes on, not something I would recommend for natural (leather) uppers, but it can help mould the shoe to your foot a bit better

I currently use the vapor with straps and really like the fit. I mainly boulder indoors. Can you recommend shoes that are similar and would act as a good alternative?

Exactly what I needed, just put a hole through the leather of my first pair, despite being aware of not wearing through the toe caps so I could have them resoled. Oh well, time to buy another pair!

My favorite shoes untill now are the Scarpa VSR's and the madrock Drone HV's. Other shoes is tried are the evolv shamans and some random off brand shoe i dont remember ;p

for the fit, I usually suggest "not confortable, but definetely not painful". my "life hack" for shoes (helps with fit, stink etc.): classic foot powder from your local drugstore / super market inside the shoes after each session.

this is really comprehensive I love it. I am at a point where I put a hole in my beginner shoes and I am just looking for guidance for new ones really so this was perfect

What cameras do you guys use to shoot these videos?

I was literally looking at new shoes to get when this notification came in

Climbing shoe rubber treatment? After a while the rubber gets polished and looses a bit of grip. I ‘ve heard of using alcohol and 60 sanding paper for this. Any idea’s about this?

another awesome vid madudes

What are the shoes at 6:14

Where might I ask are the UK’s best shops for range of technical outdoor climbing shoes? I live in Scotland, and have found few aggressive shoes in the retailers’ ranges (plenty of ‘soft slippers’ for jumping around on volumes). I prefer to try on shoes in store. I will be driving through London, Birmingham and Manchester…

Where I could find information when to use Drago vs Furia S vs Chimera :)

I have got a pair of vapour Vs. I really like the fit in the front and the overall size but when I stand up on my toes, the heel plastic kind of cuts into my archiles tendon. Is there anything I can do about it?

Robbie Phillips beat you guys to the punch!!

Do you have any tips for people with hallux valgus? ( deformed foot shape:)) I just keep climbing but sometimes my feet really are in pain after a session, especially after stepping on small foot holds where I need the toe

I have weak toes, bunions, and a longer 2nd toe than big toe. Most soft shoes are out of the question for me. I bought a pair of Vapor VS because the Internet says they are the most comfortable intermediate shoes. They hurt my first 2 toes like crazy. So I tried climbing all the warm up routes in Mythos and only use Vapor V for the hardest route. After 2 years my toes are stronger and can handle the Vapor V for 2-3 routes per session. I have tried on Scarpa Instincts Lace before. They feel okay on my feet if I am not climbing. When I tried to climb in them it feels like my toes are on fire. Probably need another year or 2 before I can climb in "advanced shoes".

For technique training (especially on foot work) would you recommend to already wear aggressive shoes or go for more comfortable ones? (Climbing on sight lead up to 6c/7a in- and outdoors)

Can anybody recommend some women's climbing shoes for VERY narrow/slim/slander but long feet, that cannot be compressed very easily in a shoe? So far, only flat beginner shoes did the job, as soon as they get a bit downturn, there's just too much air particularly on the top of the foot. Any ladies with long feet here?

What about the shape of the foot. Some shoes just don’t fit a foot where the middletoe is the longest.

I'm always looking for new brands and models just to try them and see what's new on the market. Witch brand is Tom using in this video? Never seen those before. Thanks Thomas

Hey Tom, how are you finding the UP line up compared to 5.10?

I have pretty small heel and generally low volume feet at size 43.5 EU street shoe size. I’d try women’s shoes but some brands don’t go up to that size (correct me if I’m wrong) but it’s just what some shops have said since I’d rather try on rather than order online. Currently wearing Madrock Drones HV (no LV’s available) which have a comfortable snug fit at the toebox but still some dead space in the heel. Not looking to upgrade any time soon but any recommendations for a different kind of shoe?

One thing that wasn't covered is the degree of asymmetry in the shoe. I understand why "performance " shoes are downturned but never clear on why so asymmetric. Can someone explain to me?

I did not know the plastic trick, usually I use chalk so my feet are dry and it's easy to put the shoes

Wait you mean if I don't buy the same shoe as Adam ondra I won't climb like him? Better tell all those people who climbed for 5 weeks to not buy a pair of la sportiva solutions then

Some pairs of my shoes were painfully tight when I got them. But now they become too loose. I’d hope they can be half to one size down. Any tips? Can resoling help reduce the size?

How do you wear tight shoes without your toes hurting like mad. I tried with the Katanas (not laced), I cannot stand on my toes cos they are being crushed.

Great video! Any tips on how to manage sweaty hands/feet?

10:52 was so innocent

I'm quite a heavy climber due to my height. 83 kg, 2 meters. I often have very painful toes when standing on small edges. Especially when using the outside edge (middle toes). Also sometimes after finishing the route. Is there a type of shoe that could mitigate that?

anyone always get bruised toenails on their big toes from climbing shoes/climbing? idk why i always get them

Advice for skinny feet? Can’t fit my long toes in mythos and the heel is way too big on scarpas.

Are those Unparallel? They look like it.

Buy la sportiva solotions, climb 9c easy

This gives me GCN vibes

what a pain buying climbing shoes, my local that has climbing shoes barley has any in my size trying to get the fit just right is a second job

Im a beginner climber I'd be very grateful if you could help me out. Trying to buy my first pair of shoes, everyone says get a comfortable pair...every single pair I've tried on draws blood on my big toe they are so so painful. Does anyone know a way around this ? So far I'm incapable of evening walking towards the wall without crippling in pain. Even in the taranulas and "more comfortable" shoes. I do pointe work in ballet..im used to pain and tight shoes...but this is too much pain! I've tried on loads, any advice?! Thanks :)

Also construction. Need to know that so you don't buy shoes that last 2 months

"No one shoe is the perfect shoe". Sorry but La Sportiva Skwama! :p

Dont wear solutions, those are for adam only! hahaha! Classic noob move! Im not saying this. This is what everyone is telling me haha! ok i get it! 60 bucks not well spent. Just kidding, their good for climbing, just not for upside down crack climbing. So i get it tom! sheeit, ill get a new different pair of shoes for crack climbing specific. jeez hahaha.

-Should I use the plastic bag? -no slip it in there right away! -Ah it is so stiff, it even has a little downturn -Yes it's a perfect fit! your welcome, perverts