When r you coming to my house to shoot some pool?

So is it a an actual parallel shift of the entire cue? -or- does the cue butt pivot on that diamond over the pocket while the tip of the cue shifts over the ball (-1/2 the distance only?

Sharivari, where can I purchase those rail sight add on markers?

​ ❤ to see Rd

Ok, Peter McKinnon.

Where are you in Indonesia.?

Indeed, that is one issue not mentioned. Another related issue is that a big adjustment is necessary if the object ball is touching or fairly close to the rail. That is because the object ball will not be rolling into the rail but will tend to have spin that affects the rebound angle in a way similar to using a faster speed (assuming no double kiss). In any case, whatever the speed of the shot and distance of the object ball from the rail, I have found the recommendation of some good bankers to use some side spin to counteract the effect of cut induced throw and spin does improve consistency. That is especially true if you must (as I try to avoid) play bank shots on unfamiliar tables.

And left/right spin has cut induced throw, deflection, spin induced throw, etc... 🤣 people be like, "oh this sports is so easy and doesn't even make you sweat"

@timothybolshaw And there's the difference between a worn and a new cloth. On a worn cloth playing the cueball with sidespin will influence (its easier to control) the object ball the most, while on a new cloth the speed of the cueball has more influence on the object ball than playing with sidespin. Like you said, the distance of the object ball to the rail also influences the bank. Its a big difference whether the object ball slides or rolls when it hits the rail.

There is nothing in here that will teach you that. This shows you how to aim a shot nothing about speed. BTW Speed into a rail can and will change the angle so its still a learning process and no matter what you have to learn how to delever your cue perfectly to get better. There are many many varibles in a bank shot and you have to have an understanding of how they all effect your shot.

stevenwilfong12 A good way to learn how find the right speed is to shoot a couple of these standard banks with your medium stroke, adjust your speed and go from there. Like bill here says, there's a lot of variabels that influence the bank. Like when the heat and humidity in a poolroom goes up when it gets more busy, the banking angles will get smaller. To adjust for that, you could shoot slightly softer than your standard medium stroke or use sidespin or both, depending on the age of the cloth.

There are easier

Yeah you don’t have to know any of this. Pool is the same shots over and over, confidence and experience is ALL that’s needed.

@@kevinbeazy hmmmm confidence 🤔😁 I have a friend who says about me," RL isn't always right but he's never in doubt"🤣🤣

Yeah, many years ago the measurement was much easier from what I can recall, but I just don't remember how to calculate it.

@@ghvxgaming Dr. Cue aka Tom Rossman can help you out with his parallel shift method. Its very easy

​@@billpii6314 I'll be writing a pool book for beginners. In it I will show that Dr. Rossman's M and M method gives exactly the same point as Mosconi's X method for finding the equal angle point on the rail.

The age of your cloth, worn or new will still influence the bank a lot. After you have your cloth replaced you'll find that the banking angles have changed (for the same speed). They also change with heat and humidity. At home you can 'feel' how the table is playing and adjust to it pretty quickly. Not so easy in the pool hall.

Is that the crab nebula btw?

shallowed*

When I want to add speed to the shot then I use what I would call the 2/3 system. So instead of 1/2 distance as Sharivari shows, what I do is reference the same spatial distance in one third increments. When using fast cue ball speed then the aiming point I would use is going to be 2/3 over versus one half. This makes for a decent approximation 99% of the time both short rails and long rails.

Diamonds are not necessary. Just use your cue stick to measure out and find the angle and then transfer the angle using parallel lines to the object ball. This will mean your object ball will need to hit a set place on the rail so if you don't have diamonds then use the nearer-in felt location (e.g. the bumper edge) and keep your eye on the location on the felt you need to hit in order to pocket the ball using medium speed center ball.

Do yourself a favor and get Tor Lowry's system. You will become a better banker and kicker IMMEDIATELY.

To widen the angle just hit the object ball softer into the rail than medium speed.

Don't aim at the rail, aim at a point on top of the side of the table like where the diamond is. He has subdivided the foot between the diamonds into smaller parts. You can do the same but in your head.

@@robdetuinman2but that's exactly the problem. If you aim at the diamond, you hit the rail a ball width besides the intended spot it and end up short of potting. In order to hit the center you need to aim a ball a ball width away from the diamond. You can line up the balls at a table or use virtual pool simulator, going from the corner pocket to the side pocket aiming at the diamond to confirm that it will miss the side pocket a ball length to short.

With what speed are you shooting? And is the cloth new or used? Temperature and humidity play a big roll too

It's actually pretty simple, and he does explain it but not in plain words. Basically the angle at which you're sending the ball to the diamond point or any rail point, the ball will bank at the same angle, but the angle can also vary depending on speed or spin on the cue ball.

Do you even play pool?

He explained it!?

Good question. Imagine the angle you'll get between the pocket and the aiming spot (the four diamond and the two diamond). If you shift down towards the pocket without splitting the difference, you will get the exact same angle, but now that you've shifted down you'll hit the head rail long of the pocket. So how to compensate for that? You're going for a 2 to 1 ratio, so if you just aim at the two diamond in the example, your angle will be off by 1/2 of the difference you should have split, and you'll hit the side rail short of the pocket. To maintain a 2 to 1 ratio you need to halve the angle. Another way to think to it is to envision half the table as a square, and ignore the rest of the table. If your object ball is perfectly aligned between the 4 diamond (side pocket) and 2 diamond, draw the angle, and you'll see that it is 45 degrees. Now measure the angle between the 4 diamond and the corner pocket (0 diamond). You'll see that it is 90 degrees (a 90 degree line splits a square). Now think about what a 45 degree angle will do - a 90 degree angle goes straight to the corner, but you want the opposite corner. 45+45=90. So, when you are shooting from the 4 diamond (side pocket) to the 2 diamond, you are creating that 45 degree angle you want. Now look at an object ball aligned between the 2 diamond and the 1 diamond. If you hit this at a 45 degree angle, it will go straight into the corner pocket. Instead, you want to go half of that, and so the angle between the two diamond and the one diamond is 22.5 degrees. Note that the two diamond to one diamond line splits a rectangle, not a square, which is why the angle is shallower. Now picture an object ball that does not neatly line up on the 4-2 line, but is slightly towards the pocket you are aiming your bank shot at. If you just move your cue over, you maintain a 45 degree angle, but that no longer works, because you are no longer splitting a square, but are splitting a rectangle. If you just shoot the object ball at the two diamond, what angle are you creating? The answer is that you're creating an angle that is half too shallow. In order to maintain a 2 to 1 ratio, you have to split the difference. So one way to conceptualize this is to look at the angle you'd need to hit the ball at to put it straight into a corner pocket, no bank shot. If you are just slightly below the 4 to 2 line, the angle from the side rail to the pocket could be 88 degrees. You'll need to shoot at half of that angle to make a bank shot. When you put your stick on the 4 to 2 line, and move the stick over your object ball, you have created a 45 degree shooting angle that only works within a perfect square - 45+45=90. You want 44+44 = 88. Now if you shift your cue to make your aiming point the 2 diamond, you've changed the angle to 43 degrees. 43+43 = 86 so again you miss. By splitting the difference, you keep the 2 to 1 ratio you want - 45 degrees is too much, and 43 degrees is to little, so by splitting the distance you get that 1 degree you want, 44+44 = 88, and you make the shot (depending on 5,000 other things going right, but that's the basic idea).

Same system just all measurements are 1/2 of those that would have been calculated on the long rail

Yes it does. To change the angle you can also use top ( decrease) bottom ( increase) as well. Hopefully this helps you out. Happy shooting 😃

Use your stick to measure ie measure 1 diamond length, then you'll see from the first into the pocket. It surprised me a bit where it was.

Yes the diamonds along the long rail and the diamonds along the short rail are all equally spaced and you can then find the "corner" diamond where these two lines intersect. Usually this diamond will be located at just about where the rear of the pocket is located.

Spin also affects it.

Biggest problem on every table speed differences

Distance to the object ball, will it slide or roll when it hits the rail too. Also temperature and humidity.

Simple math. Since the ball makes the same angle as it goes into the rail, it’s always the half measure. (If you play from diamond 4 into diamond 2 cushion you get diamond 0 (since it makes the same path twice - going into the rail, and coming out of it) Let’s say that in the example the actual “axis” was something like 3.8 diamond - 1.9 diamond. If he parallel shift his cue from the 4-2 axis to the 3.8, he will parallell 0.2, thus finishing jn a 3.8-1.8 instead (which is not a 2:1 system). So you split the 0.2 in half, and you get a 3.8 - 1.9 axis. When the ball is already in a diamond axis it’s easier, of course, no calculation needed.

To make it more visual, put your cue from the middle pocket to the opposite 2nd diamond. Now put a 2nd cue from diamond 3 to the middle between 1 and 2 (1.5). Now compare those lines. If the object ball is exactly in the middle of those, the point to aim for is exactly in the middle as well.

A couple of banks and you'll know and can adjust

If you watch till the end, you will see that you are wrong.