This is extremely helpful for my current project. It answered so many question I had that I could not find without a significant investment of time on forums waiting for replies about a specific issue with specific conditions. I believe I need to invest into a more expensive ECU so that I have access to a higher level of modification/control and information gathering. Thank you very much for such thorough and comprehensive videos. I enjoy your content very much and I am quite grateful for how much I have learned from you in the short time I have known about this channel.

Hi , it 's interesting to listen to your lessons, especially for a person not particularly dedicated to this, but trying to figure out the setup, I have to use subtitles with translation , since I'm in another part of the world, having a certain equipment of the ECU from Japan and the engine is the most popular 2J in the world , I would like to hear general information about the setup of this engine , maybe you already have a webinar or a narration about the setup of this engine ! Your webinars about the concept and strategy of setting up the internal combustion engine ECU are very clear and give an understanding of where to start!

Excellent! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Andre! My only question would be if there are more advanced ways to increase the signal/noise at high power levels when noise is much higher? Does knock always occur at one frequency or could monitoring multiple frequencies together increase the signal without increasing false knock?

Very well explained, cheers

I noticed that when you lifted off, your knock numbers went above the thresholds. How can you stop that registering, if you get the margins right for accleration? Do you remove base timing, or increase the threshold on zero/low throttle?

Is it worth having knock sensors for a drag car that runs on E85?

Andre do formula one engineers set up their ecu the same manner?

i have a knock sound at around 3000 rpm at like 30% throttle, engine at normal temp, (stock hyundai sonata (theta 2.4L) 2010), since it was brand new it's doing it, now it has 90k km, and still doing the same thing. if it occurs, i will change the throttle amount immediately, i can't figure it out ! no fault codes, the car was brand new, i went to the dealer, they tested it ... no clear answer, what do you think is happening ? Oh, i also tried to put some octane boosters ... same thing. it's not a big problem, but it's frustrating me, note that the car is very quick and nice on the road.

Was it the cracke/ rustle noise? Never heard it before and didnt knew who knock sounds like. Thx for showing us

Hey mate, having a look at my friend's ELITE 1500, there doesn't seem to be a long term ignition trim... Is there something i'm missing?

How set knock threshold for turbocharged car's? Like if my boost target is 30 Psi..

Would you change knock frequency when running a stock block with forged internals? (MQB platform)

2.07 is a very old software version, knock control has been revised multiple times since then..

This is CONTENT

How about intake temperature? In turbo cars, the flow true intercooler is highly impacted by speed and pack / drag effect driving close to someone in race. The nock limit is by my understanding inpackted which intake temp. Is there a way to tune the spark advance faktoring in the intake temp?

What's the difference in sound from pre ignition and det ?

Maybe you should wire that Haltech for more precise Window Control...