Just started shooting some footage for V3 of the clock. This time instead of 3D printing and wood turning, I'm using a CNC router to create the main clock parts. It won't be a step by step how to because I'm only just learning CNC, it will be more of a look at what I'm up to now.

Stephen Ludgate Hey Steve, thanks for the kind comments, and glad you like my clock. If you go ahead with building one, let me know how it goes. Maybe you will make some improvements.

Steve Manley will do! Will be using an ESP8266 no doubt to give some control and iot 'stuffiness'. Video to follow eventually!

Stephen Ludgate look forward to it 😀

Thank you and your welcome

Thanks Abhijeet.

sejal patel Thank you 😊

Adahop Thank you😊

Necro Nemesis Thank you, and very nice of you to say. Your comment is very much appreciated.

You're very welcome. Thanks for providing the files. I am sourcing the materials to build one after I put finishing touches on my largely 3d printed Perspex block ws2812b Arduino audio light bar project. I'm thinking of attempting to pour clear cast resin into the LED cavities of the print then sanding to a mat finish to see if I can obtain similar optical qualities of the Perspex blocks to propagate the light. Resin may also form the basis for the frame in my case as I don't readily have access to a wood lathe. I will conduct a little experiment to see how well clear casting works in this application.

Necro Nemesis Very interesting idea, please let me know how that goes.

Necro Nemesis I'd advise testing on a smaller section so as not to waist led rings if it doesn't work out.

mily Isack Thank you sir!

Mike Pepper Thank you

Fohab Electro Thanks, glad you like it.

Gracias

Thanks Ben, I'm blown away by other clocks I've seen. Code will be posted in a day or two. Been a bit busy with other things the last few days.

+Ben Posner Ben, Here is a link to the code as promised: www.dropbox.com/s/epkd4fks3vb7fg6/NeoPixelClock_V2_With_MSGEQ7_V3.0.zip?dl=0

awesome, thanks very much!

F. Medina M. Thank you, and good luck.

dmawzx Спасибо вам

Nice idea.

Johannes Klamann Hi Johannes, thanks for your your kind comments, and pleased you like the project. The clock in the video has additional electronics and PCB holders than those shown. I’m not entirely sure I have all the original files as the clock design has been tweaked over the years. Can I assume you just want a PCB holder combo for the Arduino Nano and Real Time Clock module, which I do still have, but is slightly different than that shown. The power distribution board has had a significant design overhaul and I probably don’t have a copy of the original file, but I will check.

Hi Johannes, Here is a link to the Nano and RTC holder: www.dropbox.com/s/asyxprxgr8kunpp/Nano%20and%20RTC%20Holder.stl?dl=0 Unfortunately I'm unable to track down the original power distribution board holder. I think it was transformed into something else, and my backups don't go back far enough to retrieve a copy of the older file version. Sorry.

Universal Peace Nice of you to say, thanks😊

Thank you :-)

Hi Andrew, glad you like the clock. I wired the rings in series outer to middle. I did try wiring them separately but when you want to update all the LEDs at once it is slightly more efficient to do so as a continuos string than 3 separate ones.

+Steve Manley .. Thanks for that now all I need to do is change the code to work with my Ds1307 RTC :) oh joy !!

Seth Cummings Hi Seth, it was all my own work using the free version of Sketchup. Links to the source stl files and blogs are in the video comments. Though I didn't do a blow by blow how to on this one. If you check out the blog links you will find a link to stl files that will print 2 whole parts rather than 2 sets of 5 parts. Just make sure you use the Adafruit rings as other suppliers are slightly different sizes.

Steve Manley *embarrassed* thanks so much for your kind reply, it's all right there!

Thank you 😊

Manuel Levi Thank you, very nice of you to say so.

It really reminds me of stained glass panels in some churches and mosques. I really like it. It must have taken you a considerable amount of time, good job!

Manuel Levi Until recently I didn't see the clock as resembling a stained glass window. When the clock is turned off, it's just a plain white face in a surround, which a friend of mine pointed out to me, and suggested maybe a brass overlay to hide the unlit portions of the display, so I was messing around with some ideas and suddenly I saw the stained glass window resemblance. Still yet to cut out the brass version though.

You don't think the brass overlay might make it look too heavy to have it at home? I don't doubt it would look good in a different setting.

Manuel Levi For the clock in the video I would agree, but I have some Mahogany that might work better. I also have additional led back plates with the addition of a centre dot and reshaped hands and brighter whiter LED's.

Manfred Böck Hi Manni, glad you like the clock. As it stands, I’ve not done a schematic yet. The connection details for the original design (the one in the video) can be found in the Arduino sketch header. The clock has evolved since making the video, and rev 3 is currently in development. Once complete, I will create a schematic of that, which will have a few extra features.

Tom Gray Thanks Tom, The clock face is 190mm, not counting the wooden surround. Most of the files you need are in my Dropbox, links are in the description. The LED rings do vary in size depending what and where you get them, which means the clock back plate and clock face parts sometimes need to be customised to suit. One Guy recently found a way to mod the STL files himself without my help. If your Ender 3 can handle larger parts, then there is a set of STL files for a whole back and a whole face, rather than having to print 10 separate parts. Good luck with the printer and let me know how you get on, or need help adjusting the back and face parts.

@@stevemanley3685 thank you very much Steve. ❤

your link for the 15 individually addressable neopixel directs to the 12 led version, didn't see a link from the same siite for a 15 led version

mailblitzer Hi, thank you so much for the kind comments, and sorry if the link is wrong, I'll look into it. In the meantime, just look around the vendors website and I'm sure you'll find the items. As for the mic/eq breakouts, well the clock can do more than just tell the time. If you bounce over to my KZfaq channel and look in my playlist, you will see the clock being demonstrated by my good self, filmed by Clive Maxfield, a good friend of mine. If after watching the videos and decide you didn't like the audio modes, you could simply leave the boards out and edit the code accordingly to remove the relevant code sections, or add some cool stuff of your own.

Cheers Steve, thanks for the reply

Sergio david Montes rodriguez Thanks for your kind words, and there is always the possibility I might make some to sell, but not at the moment.

Seth Cummings Thanks Seth, very reassuring to know that someone would buy one. I am working on V3 which I may make available to purchase.

Steve I hope you do. this is definitely a product which is special and cool. In a bar, restaurant this would be a talking point and instant success. really like its originality. Amazing.

Steve Manley awesome, even more fun would be a kit; especially since i have just taught myself to solder! check out my channel.

red kurawa Thanks, nice of you to say😊

Hi, Thanks for your kind comment. I have just uploaded the Arduino Sketch which contains the Simblee bits, which you can download from here: www.dropbox.com/sh/jw3r5gjnw6xxogw/AABW4qcvbAYi_31rK6h9WEjaa?dl=0 The Simblee Sketch has been available for a while and is located here: www.dropbox.com/s/crymisw5b3b1acn/Simblee_Clock_Control_V1.1.zip?dl=0 The Simbee needs GND & 3.3V, and GPIO3 to Nano D5, and GPIO2 to Nano D6. You will need to download the Simblee App from where ever, according to your mobile device (if its still available). With the Nano & Simblee Sketches uploaded accordingly, and with Bluetooth enabled on your mobile device, run the Simblee App and select "Simblee, Neo time", you should have 3 basic buttons for controlling the clock. The Adjust/Test button effectively presses both Mode Up and Down buttons simultaneously. When in Time, Date or the very first Audio mode, you can set the Time, Date, or enter an LED test sequence accordingly. Once in Time or Date Setting mode, you will set the (Hours, Minutes, Seconds) or (Year, Month, Day) with each successive (Adjust/Test or both physical buttons) button press. One final press, will set the new Time or Date. Your English is better than my German by the way :-)

Great! Thank you very much. @@stevemanley3685

+patprop74 Hi, I just uploaded the STL files to DropBox: www.dropbox.com/sh/vxi5b4cutua4pgv/AAAVNIbd0v5E99qXO_wXz7LDa?dl=0 There are 2 zip files, one contains the clock face and back plate as whole parts, best if you have a larger high quality 3D printer. The other zip file contains the clock face and back plate as multiple parts, ideal for smaller printers. I recommend printing in PLA plastic if you have a choice of PLA and ABS like I did. I achieved much better results with PLA (less bowing).

+Steve Manley Thank you Very much Mr Manley.

Thanks

Dmax Thank you

Hi Mirko, the STL files are available, and a link to them is in the video description. If you mean the original SketchUp files I used to creat the STL files, then I’m sorry to say that I don’t release those to anyone. This issue has cropped up several times before as the led rings used do vary in size. I have created custom STLs but I’m reliant on accurate measurements from you guys, and it can be time consuming for me. One guy managed to tweak the STL files directly. I’m not sure how he did it. I am working on a clock kit that consists of a custom (and consistent) led back plate and clock face as a whole piece. It all takes time, effort and expense to get it all done.

The STL files I created for a couple of guys are available, just follow the link in the description. Being I’d rather spend time creating the new version of the clock in a kit form, I don’t have time to create custom STL files, I’m sorry to say.

@@stevemanley3685 Hello Steve, thanky you for the fast respond. No Problem for that. I will find a way to edit the Holes in an other Software

Hi, thanks for your comment. I have placed the STL files available for download should anyone want to 3D print them for themselves. Unfortunately my printer is to slow, small and of insufficient quality to go into production with, which means going to someone else to make the parts, and that could be quite costly. Do you have Any suggestions?

+Steve Manley Sure do! Kickstarter, Indiegogo & Patreon. I'm sure you'll be able to crowd-source your idea very successfully. Best of luck!

+Omaha nine your not the fist to suggest Kickstarter, and maybe I could be onto something, but for me it is just a hobby project, and because I can and did make all the parts myself (excusing the actual electronic modules) without the need of others, then I'm happy with what I have done. I have seen many other clocks and some are way better than mine anyway.

Your clock is exceptional Steve. I can't imagine any cooler than yours. I'm only 60% complete with my RGB Cube and I find myself thinking of ways to convince my wife I need a 3D printer. Hmm, soft music, bottle of wine, candles, her favorite dinner ...... Any help would be appreciated.......

Ron Dumas Hey Ron, thanks for your appreciation re my clock design. I'm working on V3 and using a CNC router to create the clock face etc. (yup just got a new toy), which means I can machine the face in two parts rather than 10. I'm no expert in marital relations especially someone else's. Personally in my relationship so long as the major bills are covered, I tend to get away with the odd purchase, plus my wife likes the cool things I make with them. Plus I generally hold back how much an item costs even if asked. If a 3D printer is what you want, then I'm sure you will find a way to get one. For info: if I were to invest in a new printer, I'd personally go for the Ultimaker 2 (advice passed to me just the other day from a trusted source).

Thanks, nice of you to say.

Brian Vo Hi Brian, regrettably not at the moment, possibly a revised model if/when I can finalise the design and build methods.

Hi, Sorry to say that I don’t currently have a circuit diagram for the DS3231 and Arduino. After I made this video, I revised my clock design and started using the DS3231, but with Teensy LC’s and I haven’t used Arduino since. The clock design and build have gone through several revisions and enhancements since this video was made and is currently on hold because other projects have got in the way. I did do a Teensy version of the original clock with custom LED PCB and control board PCB with DS3231 and the MSGEQ7 circuit. The LED PCB included an extra LED in the centre and all the LEDs were of the RGBW type. It works very well. The latest version is still in development and does away with the MSGEQ7 audio circuit, which has been replaced by a more complex but more versatile Audio Codec chip. To drive the audio chip, it requires the more powerful Teensy 3.2. The LED PCB has been updated even further and has multiple LEDs in most of the display segments. All these developments are not ready for sharing.

Robert Batchelor Hi Robert, glad you like the project enough to build your own clock. Personally I'm not keen on the audio side but see that it would be of interest to others. A friend of mine has already started a project to do just that. I also have ideas on various display options, in fact I have a v3 of the clock with a centre dot and modified shape of the 12 led inner ring segments, plus a slight mod the the hands. This time I used a CNC router to create the parts. I have also swapped out the Nano for a Simblee which I can control from my iPhone, all still a prototype. Also got some cheaper led rings from China that are way brighter and whiter. I already tried the auto dimming but my implementation was rather poor, so can be improved. I have also considered using a GPS chip for more accurate time keeping, but to be honest, the RTC chip I use is here good. I have a Nixie tube clock with GPS and another clock with radio time sync, and my clock keeps better time without the extras. Keep in touch. Steve

Hi Neil, thanks for your comments and glad you like the project. I have checked the links and they are all working for me, so I’m unable to explain why you’re unable to access them. Presuming that you were able to access the files, I’d have to say that you are Likely going to have difficulties using them. It is very unlikely you would be able to get the LED rings with exactly the same dimensions as the ones I used, which would mean the 3D printed parts would have to be customised for your rings. In addition, the Simblee module for remote controlling the clock ( not actually shown in the video ) is now obsolete with absolutely no support for it. After the IOS 14 update on my iPhone, I can no longer remote control my own clock through the Simblee App, which has been withdrawn from the App Store. So I should really remove those files and links. Simblee aside, the code if run on a Nano and wired to the correct Real Time Clock module, should still work though.

@@stevemanley3685 Thank you for your reply I will keep trying the links to see if I can get them to download Just tried a couple time before the and still connection refused again thank You

Funny thing I went to your other video and was able to download it with no problems Again Thank You

@@NeilHodgsonDARKHOURS Fantastic, glad you were able to get hold of them eventually.

Hi Randy, Thanks for you comment, and I'm pleased you like the clock enough to want to make one. Since making the video (and that clock), that clock has gone through a few hardware updates and improvements. Going forward, I will also be using i2c and a DS3231 chip. I have found it to be very accurate, in fact my current development clock has only drifted about half a second in several months. It's good that you can program, and if you choose to use my code as a reference to create your own version, then you will find that it is by no means perfect or even efficient. I retired recently and will be working on further hardware and software improvements myself, now that I have more free time. In fact I'm waiting for a control board PCB I designed recently to arrive from China. This board incorporates the Micro-controller (going forward will be a Teensy 3.2), the DS3231 and its battery, the buttons, plus some other doodads. I have also added a centre pixel. I wish you all the best in creating your clock, and hope the Adafruit rings are still the same dimensions as per the original ones I used. If they are not, then some adjustment of the back plate and clock face will be required. Take your time and enjoy, and please let me know how you are getting on, or if you have any difficulties.

@@stevemanley3685 I just printed one of the back plate STL files and I should have checked the dimensions. The outer groove is close to being right but slightly too narrow for my 4 piece ring. The 2 inner grooves are way too big of a diameter for the 12LED ring and the 24LED ring. You have a couple of files and I printed the most recent one. I probably should have printed the earlier version one (that had all of the round holes for pressing in the face plate). I will try it and if that doesn't work I will probably just design my own clock files.

nc2010vettef55 Hi Randy, I did wonder if you would have problems, as has been the case for a few others, thus I ended up creating specific parts for them. The last time I did this it took ages and several reworks, because I was supplied inaccurate dimensions. If you have the ability to attempt creating the STLs yourself, then you will probably get more satisfaction doing it yourself. If you have difficulties, then let me know the inner and outer diameters if the ring PCBs, and the diameter of the LED centreline, as you can never rely on them being exactly in the center of the PCBs. Belts and braces, the width and thickness of each PCB is also useful. If you are doing this yourself, I’d eliminate the need for the square holes in the clock face, and just have the shape of the hands go front to back. This makes the face a little more universal for ring size variations. Hope this helps.

@@stevemanley3685 I can do the redesign myself, no problem. It may be a while before I get this project finished but it will get done eventually. I really like your clock so it is getting done for sure. I will let you know when it gets done and may post a video on KZfaq. Of course, any display or photos of mine will reference yours and give you all of the credit for your clock. THANKS for the help and inspiration! Randy

@@stevemanley3685 Where did you find the round glass that you are using? Also, the plastic diffuser piece?

Artur Schreiber Hi, glad you like the clock. Unfortunately I never got around to drawing the circuit because I have not yet finalised my design. Im currently working on version three which may have a GPS option for more accurate time keeping (not that the current design is so bad that it needs one anyway, but why not) plus a dedicated PCB to tie everything together more neatly. The Header in the current Arduino sketch has the connection details for the various modules used. Once V3 is is done then I can make a proper circuit diagram available.

Hi, As your not alone in wanting the circuit diag of the current clock, I will be doing a rough sketch in the next few days and placing a copy in my DropBox. I'll let you know when Ive done it.

It would be great if you could share this information. I'm looking forward. Thank you.

Having to re-learn Eagle CAD as I haven't used it for a couple of years, may take a little longer than I had hoped. Please bear with me on this.

Hi Artur, You can now get the Schematic here: www.dropbox.com/s/abdfuevxvb3jjg4/Steve%20Manley%20RGB%20LED%20Clock%20V2%20Schematic.pdf?dl=0

Hi, You will already know that my Clock design works with a Real Time Clock (RTC) that uses SPI, not I2C. Can I suggest you get a SPI RTC module.

As you are probably aware, the ADMP401is a microphone and I use it to pick up audio from the clock surroundings (i.e. music) which feeds into the MSGEQ7 graphic equaliser chip, then the clocks additional software displays a couple of audio mods that respond to the music. You can see a demo of the clock modes here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bdp2p9uUvcyyYJs.html&frags=pl%2Cwn

Hi Mario, I just looked and hit the same issues as you, so looks like support for Simblee has unfortunately been withdrawn. Which is a shame, as I found it a really useful device. The last time I used Simblee was in Jan 2016, and I was using the Arduino 1.6.5r5 IDE (as recommended) at that time. My current Arduino install does not recognise the board, and the libraries are not showing, so I would have to go back to that old 1.6.5r5 install to do anything Simblee related myself. Sorry to say that I have no knowledge of how to extract the files needed from my install, they are buried deep inside the Arduino package contents somewhere.

OK, thank you for your support. @@stevemanley3685

Yippeeee, i found it. Here an link to the board driver i found. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aJyJq8l72pfWk4U.html And here the Simbleeformobile library. github.com/OpenHAK/Simblee :-)

Sorry, i put the wrong link in the message above. Here the right board driver. www.slinq.eu/package_simblee_index.json www.buntsoft.com/simblee/package_simblee166_index.json

I tested only the buntsoft link.

Hi there, glad you like my clock. Not all time pieces have numbers and at the time I couldn't think of a nice way to add them, so I made it without. Originally it didn't have hands, just dots, but now you mention the numbers, I have had a couple of ideas for future revisions. Trouble is, its beyond the capabilities of my current 3D printer to do what I have in mind.

hi steve... that is alright and take time... get the numbers from the hobby lobby store or michael's craft store

bestamerica Hi, and thanks for the suggestion, but if or when I do place numbers around the clock, it will be done to the highest possible standard I can achieve using either a 3D printed component or by engraving using a CNC router. In fact I already have a piece of brass plate that can be cut out and used for such a thing.

Hi Steve A couple of years ago, I did some Glass engraving works, I also made a Clock, but not so amazing like yours. For the numbers, what when you cover your clock, with a Glass plate, in witch the numbers are engraved. When the light comes around the engraved number, it will brake the light, so the number will comes more visible. It depends how fine the line is, what you will see if the light is of. Don´t look at my English, it is a long time ago, I used, to speak or write in English. Greeting from Germany

Zebulon 60 Well your English is better than my German lol. Engraving the glass with the numbers sounds a neat idea. I'll give it some consideration for another version of the clock. Cheers 😃

Hi, Sorry to say that I am not familiar with the DS1307 RTC device. I have a number of projects on at the moment and do not have time to advise on code or hardware I have not yet had experience with.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it.

Thanks for letting me know and I'm very please you like it. Also fantastic you made one yourself

the leds ive got need a small index modification. btw im using white window foil which is working pretty awesome

lilcwn yes I’ve used a da3231 on a different project, and it is a good option. Glad to hear your able to adapt the design.

lilcwn When you say the LEDs you are using need an index mod, what exactly needs tweaking? Are you using the 2 or 10 part version? Are you using white window foil as the defuser, if so, do you have a link for it? I’m always looking for better alternatives for the defuser

index 0 isnt the first led, its led 1 for all rings! -> void resetArrayIndexes() { // reset the ring index arrays, audio mode 3 & 5 changes them during rotation effects for (byte index = 1; index < 60; index++) { ref60[index] = index-1; } ref60[0]=59; for (byte index = 1; index < 24; index++) { ref24[index] = index + 60 - 1; } ref24[0] = 60 + 23; for (byte index = 1; index < 12; index++) { ref12[index] = index + 84 - 1; } ref12[84] = 84 + 11; }

Hi, thanks for the comment. Yes, you can omit those items, but be sure to edit the code so that it doesn’t try to enter the audio modes.

@@stevemanley3685 i will. if i get error , hope you help me fix it. thank for the reply :)

@@MerleyAilme Hi, The simplest way to block the audio modes is to change just one line of code. It's near the top in the "includes & definitions" block. Change: #define MODE_LIMIT 6 // upper mode limit To: #define MODE_LIMIT 1 // upper mode limit All the code for the Audio modes will still be there, but you shouldn't be able to activate them using the mode up and down buttons. All you will get is the "Time" and the "Date" displays. Hope this helps.

​@@stevemanley3685 hello , today i got all items. i go to test code.i edited your code as you told me.all leds were displayed but it didnot flash :( i pressed all 2 buttons but got nothing :( please help me

Vinh Đồng Đức Hi, Without seeing what you built and how you wired it, It is difficult for me to advise. If all you did was omit the audio hardware, wire the RTC as per wiring schedule, then I would have to replicate the same thing and test it for myself, and I don’t have the spare parts to do that without ripping apart my own clock. Are you able to post photos or a video on-line so I can try and see what you have done? I’d also suggest you post a copy of the code you edited. Please recheck your wiring to make sure it’s correct. Do you have access to any test equipment like a scope or multimeter? If you have, see if power is getting to each item accordingly. There should also be a 1Hz signal coming from the RTC module, and it is this that controls how often the time is read from the RTC and updated on the display. If you are into programming, try placing some debug lines into the sketch that writes to the serial port, and see where the code is getting to, but if you are not a coder, then this will not be very easy for you to do.

Thanks for your kind words and glad you like the project. It has evolved a bit since making that video. I had the 3D printed parts laser cut in MDF in the end. Mind you, speaking of 3D printers, I can and will whole heartedly recommend any of the Bambu Lab printers. My first printer was an Up Mini. Okay for its time but the build plate was too small for my needs. My next printer the TiVo Tarantula (which came highly recommended at that time) was definately a tinkerers printer and I had mixed results with it. Loads of mods to try and make it work better with little luck. Bed adhesion being the biggest issue. I then went for the Creality CR10 Smart. A much better printer all round but still not adequate. You think you've dialled it in and then you get an unexpected failed print a week later for example, printing the same part too. Again bed adhesion and warping being the main issue. I think it may have been poor filament choice in the end. I soon became fed up trying to dial in the printer all the time. Just recently I bought a Bambu Carbon X1 and this is the printer I’ve always needed. It just works with no tinkering unless you want to. Even old filament that had failed me previously, printed just fine on this machine. Don't get me wrong, there are failures sometimes, mostly my fault. Bed adhesion is really good and no warping. I have only used PLA mind. The Carbon with AMS (a must add on in my opinion), can be purchased at the moment for just over £1100 in the UK. I’m actually considering a P1S or a A1 as a second printer, permanently set up with a 0.2mm nozzle. In fact, the A1 would be perfect for that. Small parts requiring fine detail. Bambu’s slicer is a dream to use, it is based on PrusaSlicer. Plenty of very good documentation to back up the printer and slicer. The comb is a dream to use by comparison to all other printers I have experienced. Other 3D printer manufacturers are playing catch up to Bambu now. The only downside to Bambu is that you are hooked into their eco system. Although you can go off grid with it if you are happy to use SD cards rather than wireless to transfer printer files. A mate of mine has a P1S and loves it. He used Creality Ender 3’s before that and says Bambu is streets ahead. Go Bambu and thank me later ☺️

PS. I’m going to try printing the clock parts on my Bambu just to see how well it prints it. Not thought to do so until this moment.

PS again. Bambu has its own MakerWorld. Also very good. You can download models others have made straight to the printer, even via a Bambu Handy App from a mobile device. Oh and I forgot to mention, Bambu printers are faster than most other printers, and still retain quality prints.

@@stevemanley3685 LOL. 😊 I'm Currently Considering that Bambu Carbon X1 as a choice (Scary Coincidence, or can you read minds ??).. ( I like what I see) and now Reading Your Recommendation .. It Gives Me great Confidence that it May Be a good choice. Plus very nice that Someone with (Hard Knocks) Experience (Such as yourself).. Is a Big Help with making a Decent Choice.. (Thank You Very Very Much) .. and yes I expect some print failures (At first because just learning) .. Perhaps Bad Filament.. or (Many others I can imagine) The list can be long (for a Reason Why 😕).. But, the X1 as a Choice.. Should Eliminate Half of the Potential Problems 🤞🤞 (Thanks Again Cheers)

@@x_CrossHair_x 🤣 No I can’t read minds, I wish though. Just a pure coincidence I’m afraid. Glad I’m able to help with your choice. Bambu have produced a printer for the masses and not just another one for those who live to tinker under the hood. To many machine makers have left their customers to figure things for themselves or rely on those who are willing to tinker to step in and help via KZfaq etc. The build quality is excellent as are most prints. Firmware updates are a breeze. The printer will self calibrate on first use, and before every print. Adds a bit of time to each print but the reliability makes this acceptable. Just start a print and let it get on with it. Check the first layer for sure, as this is always critical to successful prints. Keep the print surface clean using dish soap and warm water. Or isopropyl alcohol. I use the smooth PEI plate from Bambu almost all the time. It needs NO clue for PLA, holds and releases well. Printer comes with a cool plate. Bambu recommend glue that’s supplied with the printer even for PLA, but I could print PLA without glue most of the time on the Cool Plate. A lot of folk like the textured PEI plate. I have one but prefer a smooth rather than textured bottoms to my prints. Please let me know how you get on.

Hi Eric, Glad you like the clock, and enough to try build one yourself. Sorry to hear that 2 of the rings are somewhat larger than my original design, they do vary a bit, and usually a little bit of fettling is required, but way to much in you're case. I will admit I'm not keen to share the original files, but I might create custom STL's for you. The originals were created in Sketchup BTW, and its quite a bit of work to modify them. Where did you get the rings from. I know I got some cheaper ones from China that were different sizes to the Adaruit rings (much brighter and whither as well actually). Did you print the 10 smaller parts, or the 2 larger parts? If I do this for you, I recommend printing the pack parts and see how the rings fit before I mod the face, thats going to be quite a chore. I have recreated the clock face for CNC machining in 2 parts using a StepCraft CNC router, and using Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF in the UK). These are much quicker to produce, and the design software makes it easier to customise and tweak the design, but a little more of a fiddle to machine, plus the dust created is terrible.

Hi Steve, thanks for your so quick answer. You don't want to share your original files, and I can understand your point of view. (on the other hand I wouldn't have uploaded your files saying it was my job, I only want to build this wonderfull clock to put on my wall just in front of my desk). Creating custom STL's just for me is very kind of you, it's just a pitty you're up to spend some of your precious time for an unknown guy (me). The links you gave in your PDF's parts list (coolcomponents.co.uk) are dead, so as I'm a french guy I bought it here with these specs: - Ring 60 Ultra Bright WS2812 5050 RGB LED + Integrated Drivers (4 quadrants) - RGB LED Ring 24 Bit WS2812 5050 RGB LED + Integrated Drivers - RGB LED Ring 12 Bits WS2812 5050 RGB LED + Integrated Driver The medium ring's outer diameter is 86mm wich is bigger than the back plate and the face hubs, no other choice for me than modifying the 2 larger parts. Of course I'll print the modified back and confirm it fits like a charm before you begin modifying the face (I can imagine it'll be much more time to spend, thanks in advance!) No CNC here... I'm just an ordinary guy, not a factory or so. Thanks for all. Eric

Hi Eric, I've not used Skechup for a while, but it would be good to try it again as I like using it. Could you send links to the rings you purchased, as I'd like to see them. Maybe I'll get some being the rings are slightly bigger, which might be worth trying myself. I still need to know if you need the 10 part version or the 2 part version, the 2 part being the better choice if your 3D printer is big enough. It might take a few days before I can complete this, and with the 2 rings being bigger, I might mean I have to re-shap or re-position the hands as well. As you will have seen from the back plate, there are some holes for the connection wires to pass through. Does it look like they will line up with your rings, If not, it might be difficult for me to work out where to put them in the re-designed version, and It might be better if I left them out for you to drill yourself. The LED rings I got from Adaruite via Cool Components were plated through hole, while the ones I got from China were all surface mount pads. What do your rings have? Steve

I Steeve, I purchased the rings in a store in my town. It's called SFJ Electronique. They haven't got a website so I can't give you links to the items. Here is a picture of these: xtremist.free.fr/ws28125050.JPG If you want to purchase some I can buy these for you and send these to you in England. I've allready answered that I need the 2 part version, as I wrote in my previous post: "The medium ring's outer diameter is 86mm wich is bigger than the back plate and the face hubs, no other choice for me than modifying the 2 larger parts." My printer is a Dagoma Discovery200 which prints 200mm x 200mm. Don't worry for the holes, I will drill these by myself. Sorry but I don't really understand your last question (my english speaking is so so) but perhaps a picture of the back of the rings will give you the answer? xtremist.free.fr/ws2812back.JPG Thanks for your help. Eric

Eric Cattelain Hi Eric, Thanks for the pictures, and yes it does answer my question, the rings use surface mount solder pads, which are not as good as a through hole pad, but all good if you take care not to over heat the pads when soldering. I will start on the back plate this weekend. Steve

@ Balvinder Narwal:- Thank you for your request for a new video on the circuit diagram and programming. Although I agree such a video would be useful to some people, these videos however take quite a lot of time and effort to create, and regretfully I've not found the time or inspiration to create the one you have requested. Creating a schematic is relatively easy, as the circuit is just modules connected together, but a Video describing the code isn't something I'm prepared to do. Watching a video of me droning on about code, would probably send you to sleep or despair :-) There are links to the Nano and Simblee sketches in this video's description, and both contain some reasonable comments, but will lack detail as to why stuff was done the way it was, or how something specifically works. However, the code headers and pin declarations are reasonable enough to determine most of the module interconnects, so it is possible to figure out how the clock is wired. I will however admit that a schematic diagram would probably be very useful though, and I will knock on up and make it available in the links. I will let you know when it is done. Every now and then decide to change something on the clock to improve it, and this is partly why I've not drawn a schematic as yet, as the project it is still very much a development, all be it a very slow development. If you have any specific questions, then please post a comment here, and I'll do my very best to answer it for you.

thank you sir

​@@@balvindernarwal6941:- Must be your lucky day. I just found a Schematic I drew a couple of years ago, and uploaded to Dropbox then. Not sure why I haven't made a link to it, but here it is anyway, Enjoy: www.dropbox.com/s/abdfuevxvb3jjg4/Steve%20Manley%20RGB%20LED%20Clock%20V2%20Schematic.pdf?dl=0

Steve sir I have check diagram but sir pls make a video pls when I a better understand

@@balvindernarwal6941:- I'm very sorry that the Schematic diagram is not enough for you to determine connection information, or for you to determine the circuits functionality. However, if you check out the below link to the Parts List, you will find a picture of the current V2 clock all wired up, which should give you some idea of how it could look if you were to build a clock yourself. I would suggest you ignore the Simblee though, as these devices are expensive and hard to find now, A shame as I thought they were great devices, and intended to make a V3 of the clock using just this device for the micro controller. You can of course do things your own way, as my method is just for guidance, and the video's are just one method to produce a clock like this. You don't have to build it exactly like mine: www.dropbox.com/sh/1uthw4znj5bmmzl/AAAQTtSBu77NFdbMbMgWu2dea/Electronic%20Components%20Parts%20List/Steve%20Manley%20RGB%20LED%20Clock%20V2%20-%20Parts%20List.pdf?dl=0 It is still with regret, but I will reiterate, I will not be making the Video you have requested, and for reasons I have already stated. I will however provide you with a brief circuit description. This clock is based on a Arduino Nano V3 micro controller, and the Adafruit 60, 24 & 12 LED Neopixel rings, cheaper rings can be purchased from China via e-Bay at your own risk, as can cheaper Non genuine Nano's. For accurate time keeping, the micro controller requires a Real-Time Clock (RTC), hence the Sparkfun DS3234S RTC breakout module, with a battery backup, so the time is maintained when main power is removed. This particular RTC communicates with the Nano via the SPI Bus, which is a multi wire 2 way communication protocol, which I will not explain as there are many videos and web sites that do explain it well. The RTC also has a 1Hz square wave output that once a second, interrupts the Nano to say the time has moved on 1 second. The Nano then reads the new time and date from the RTC, and displays the new time. The clock can also display the date by pressing the Mode Up button once. The date display is hard to read if you don't know how its represented. The date is hard to display on a clock face, but I did manage it, so please check out this video which provides some explanation: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bdp2p9uUvcyyYJs.html). The clock has a couple of audio modes where sound is broken up into 7 channels via a MSGEQ7 Graphic Equaliser chip (conveniently mounted on a breakout board I got from eBay), and displayed in a couple of ways. The sound is detected by a Sparkfun MEMS Microphone breakout, which I mounted directly onto the MSGEQ7 breakout (after I removed the jack socket), and feeds into the breakouts left audio input channel (you could use the right channel if you like as it makes no difference at all). The MSGEQ7 needs 3 wires for the 7 channels of data to be gathered by the Nano. In essence, the Nano sends out a Reset, that forces the MSG chip to start a download cycle, the Nano then pulses the Strobe pin, which tells the MSG chip to present the first channel of data on its OUT pin, which the Nano then reads as a analog value. Each subsequent pulse on the Strobe pin sets the MSG chip to present the next channel, and this goes on until all 7 channels have been read by the Nano. Some processing of the date is then carried out, and displayed on the clock face accordingly. I suggest you Google "MSGEQ7 Data Sheet" if you need more info on how that chip works, plus study my code to see how the Nano deals with controlling the MSG chip. The various clock displays are accessed by pressing either the Up or Down Mode buttons. With the Time displayed, yo can set the time by pressing and releasing both buttons at the same time. You will then be able to change the hours by pressing the up or down mode buttons. Press and release both buttons again to set the minutes, then again to set the seconds. Then one final double press to commit the new time. Setting the date is much the same. select the Date display and press and release both buttons, First you will set the year, then the month, then the day. The clock does attempt to shift the time for the UK daylight and UK summer times automatically. It works fine in the spring for the clock going forward by one hour, but in the winter, there is a software bug that sets the clock back one hour every hour, so gets stuck between 1 & 2am, until you manually reset the time, so this bug needs sorting. If you don't need the time shifts wherever you are in the world, or do not conform to the UK time shifts, then you can edit the code accordingly or remove that functionality. If you press and release both buttons on the first Audio Mode (2 presses of the Mode Up button when the time is being displayed), the clock will then run a test sequence on the LED's. There are 2 audio modes, each with 2 variations. One mode varies the brightness of groups of LED's according to the 7 channels, and the other displays a graphic equaliser representation. Both modes can have the display static, or rotating. One final mode is the colour changing PacMan. One note about the Audio modes, the Mic and how its presented, does affect the higher frequency pickup. Unless the back of the clock is directly in front of a speaker, the high frequency activity isn't that great. The code is still a bit raw, and could do with some tidying up and bug fixing, and additional comments of course. Other than that, the Clock on the whole does work quite well, and mine has been running for several years and keeps very good time. I hope this helps.

Shyam Baboo Thanks

+TheDevil666inside Thanks for the kind comments. The code is still unfinished but I could release an early version, warts and all provided you realise it isn't perfect. I will need to tidy it up first and add a few comments before I'm prepared to share it.

+Steve Manley Thank You so much! And where can i find your code if you are ready?

+TheDevil666inside please give me a day or so to sort it and I'll post it on DropBox and I will reply again with a link.

+Steve Manley oh, do not rush. Thank you! Kind regards from germany...!

+TheDevil666inside Here is a link to the code as promised: www.dropbox.com/s/epkd4fks3vb7fg6/NeoPixelClock_V2_With_MSGEQ7_V3.0.zip?dl=0

Please look in the description of the video for the link to the circuit diagram.

Hi Neo Maximus, Thanks you for your kind comments, and really pleased you like the project enough for you to want to make one of these clocks. Normally I'd create the STL files no problem, but they take time, and I will need more accurate measurements of the actual inside and outside diameters, and where the solder pads are, so that I can add relevant cutouts in the backplate. On this occasion, you have caught me at an awkward time as I'm developing V3 of the clock with a custom made backplate PCB and laser cut clock face (the clock face could be 3D printed, but I've not done the design for that yet). I can draw up what you ask, but it will be a couple of weeks before I can set aside the time to do it, plus I would need actual and more detailed dimensions of the 3 rings.

@@stevemanley3685 Hi Steve. Thank you so much for your kind reply. Please take your time and i really anticipated to see V3. Exact dimensions are : 60 pixel ring, Outer Dia - 158 mm and Inner Dia - 148 mm ( solder pad is exactly in between two pixels - bottom of PCB ) 24 pixel ring, Outer Dia - 86 mm and Inner Dia - 74 mm ( Solder pad is exactly under the pixel ) 12 Pixel ring, Outer Dia - 50 mm and Inner Dia - 36 mm ( Solder pad is exactly under the pixel ) Single pixel in the centre of plate - Dia - 10 mm Please let me know if you need further details. Thank you Neo

Neo Maximus Hi Neo, thanks for the info. I will also need to know which pixel on each ring is the first pixel in the chain, so that I can make sure they all align at the top. They are not always where you might expect. Is your 60 ring a complete ting, or is it make up of 4 parts?

@@stevemanley3685 Hi steve, Please download the images of the neopixel ring from the link below photos.app.goo.gl/YGkB1VUVAakz1Qca6 Also please note that the 60 pixel ring was made by 4 quadrant ( In the picture all quadrants were joined together by jumper wire. But later I will disconnect the loop ) Thank you Neo

Hi Steve, Have you checked the images i sent ?. Please let me know if you need further details. Thank you Neo

Владимир Архипов Hi, Please could you post your comment in English. Thanks.

Very kind of you to share the revised code, Thank You!

Very cool, I like it. Well done 👍