Well I didn't have to soak test it for long. My wife (Julie, by the way) used it for a few hours this morning, but as she was sending an email when it suddenly went blank, then came back on with narrow multicoloured vertical lines all over the screen (looking like a duff GPU). I unplugged the monitor power and powered it back up again but now it doesn't come on. Julie's PC had not crashed, I connected a spare monitor and it was working.

Reminds me of a LED TV I got in a couple of years back. The error was that it stopped working after 15-30 minutes. So the guy loaded it up in the car and brought it over. I opened it up and checked for any visual cues.. nothing. Then I just put a movie onto it and did other stuff while it was playing in the background. Worked perfectly. So the guy got it back and it worked fine for him too. A year later I got a new call. The TV had worked perfectly for almost a year until the error appeared again. This time it didn't start at all so time for round two... I opened it up again and now I could see the problem, a burned connector for the power going in on the main board. The connector showed a brown spot on the plastic. I quickly stripped the wires and soldered them straight onto the main board and the TV worked again. Apparently the connector had a thermal issue and failed open when it got hot. When I opened it the first time it was enough to break the oxide layers and create a better connection, allowing it to work until it eventually failed. So nowadays I check the power connectors if I don't find any other fault. The first sign of an overheated connector is the tin plating turns gray and dull compared to the pins around it. In extreme cases the plastic of the connector turns brown or even starts to char.

Hi Rich, I fixed a few monitors recently. I find old plastic cards (like credit cards or loyalty cards) very useful when prying open the back cover. Stiff enough to do the job, but also flexible and won't snap. Just be careful as the top layer of the foil peels off and particles can stay inside the monitor. Cheers!

My dead monitor was a broken track on the neutral input to the board. Took it out - working, put it back in - not working. This kept happening until the break on the track became visibly noticeable. Blob of solder and some wick fixed it.

I really like that the manufacturer has clear, descriptive silk screen printing on the PCB and printed different dash and cross marks on the outgoing flat cable. This makes it much easier to track continuity between boards in case there is a twist in the cable on the way to the connecting board.

Those metal pieces on the pcb top are cheapo heat sinks soldered really close to the tabs of the smt mosfets on the bottom.

Intermittent faults are the most annoying. I’ve had some success with freeze spray revealing dry solder joints in the past. Yes, soak tests for things which fail during use are worthwhile but if something doesn’t start without tinkering (TLC?) I’m not sure burn in testing would necessarily reveal the condition. Maybe a warm air / freeze spray ? Hopefully it will return for a part 2 😀👍

I had a similar issue and it turned out the physical push button was defective. Everything was fine after replacing it. It was the first I've seen these little buttons breaking causing a loose/intermittent contact

The fault diag vids are great. Showing us some smd and ball array soldering techniques is very apealing. BUT WHAT WE ALL WANT TO SEE is you giving the wife the repair bill!!!!

I had this kind of problems with my computer many times, and other things. This is so typical! Great video! I think I learned a few new things.

Your right ! most people would correctly go straight to the power supply with these TVs...cheers.

you are such a nice and honest guy. I like you and your clips.

I have a few monitors, where the fault is on the driver board. What would happened, is it would not turn on straight away and this was due to a faulty cap. After replacing, it would work and the after an hour would suddenly go blank screen. It turned out that there is a component 3 legs/pins with a heatsink ( I don't know the name of the part). What was happening is due to lack of air flow in case, this part was heating up and the shutting down when it became too hot. I applied some fresh thermal paste and it worked semi ok for about a month and then died completely.

The saying 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it', is better stated as 'if it ain't broke, don't break it', in my opinion. If I only heeded my own advice on more than one occasion, it would have saved me a lot of time and effort lol.

Resp Sir! Excellent Class Sir. -- ChinnaRao Paderu Visakhapatnam Dist Andhrapradesh

i have an acer 19 inch 4.3 monitor working 8 hrs a day at works more than 20 years. Only repair i did is changing failing capacitors on backlight power board. it has cold cathode lamps.

Hi Richard, you mentioned it many times now (and we've seen it) that the humidity and salinity of the Island's environment causes a lot of corrosion. It really could be as simple as that the power button and other contacts got a bit corroded hence increasing the resistances and causing the intermittent failures.

power switch??

Wish me luck I got me a 4k monitor for Christmas was so happy to game on it. Then when I was cleaning my setup my monitor hit my other monitor and fuck up the screen. So imma buy a new panel and replace it myself

Maybe when the processor got warm it shuts down, when it Cools off it does working again. Or you just had to reseat the screen connector, sometimes it's just that and will solve it like laptop's issues with no screen but backlight on as long as the 3 or 5 volt is presenceb 👍.

Hi, I have this Dell LCD 2709W for some time now, but about 3yrs ago it stopped turning on, took it to a technician and they could not fix it but suggested i change the board, which we could not obtain anywhere in Nigeria. I packed it up, after about 4mths I plugged it, power it on and voila its working, i used it for sometime and it stopped working again. So i packed it again and after a month tried to power it again and it did not work, so i left it for longer like 3mths plus and power it again and its working. It stopped working last year and i packed it again, i tried powering after a while it did not work, so i left it again for longer, i just powered it on today and its working. Is there any explanation to this? What could be done? Thanks

Intermittent faults are the worst 😡 my old boss was quite often seen armed with a can of freeze spray in one hand and a heat source in the other to hunt them down 👍

I had an acer monitor that didn't work with intermittent power led light Every time I disassembled it started working again for a while until it didn't In the end it was defective electrolytic capacitor even if they looked fine

Maybe take a look at the control panel. There may be a problem with the switches.

have you ever repaired LCD display of DECT phones? the panasonic ones are always prone to blanking out

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There is a very small change that there is a short on the led because the leds are in series and therefore the high voltage

Similar troubles with intermittent power button

Maybe it thinks youre pressing buttons when youre not ,caused by slightly conductive dirt in the switch contacts

No fail 😱 How dare you , you evil monitor. 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Job well done , good video thanks

Hi Sir. thks a lot for you vids ! Could you make one about how to use an oscilloscope ?

We call it "chicken foot". You shake a chicken foot at it and it works, lol.

Typical nothing wrong with me but i wont work situation, i have seen one in one of sockets a pin was creating high resistance with pin itseld n sockets pin cuz of that device wasnt turning on cuz there was no enough voltage. Probably this one had that problem, when you pull them sockets out and put them back thing started to work again.

either one or two LED open circuit in LCD panel

I hate those intermittent problems..How in the world am I supposed to fix something thats working

Did you try thumping it on top ? 😅

I would say the power button?

Spending time watching this video I really hoped that there would be an accurate diagnostic to the problem followed by a how to solve it but no sad ending and an total waste of my time!! Epic fail!!! I suppose you wanted someone else to solve it?? Should have called Colombo!!!

never heard of that make of monitor before

Timestamp 1:47 I'm Guessing its the diodes in the power section...

Probably same as laptops. Unplug the screen and plug it back in lol bad connections on connectors

What software do you use for your video

I had a cpiple of samsung LED monitors with corroded power button.

Still you are not making short vedio for learner

BNC in/out connectors... security monitor?

richard, how can i contact , regards clyde

Heya oh wouw you have magic fingers lol

What a disappointment. I was expecting to watch another episode of “the butcher of Las Palmas” and instead you used a plastic spudger. 🤣😂 I’m partial to guitar picks, 5 quids for a box of 24, including a metal box.

The problem is it's a qvis monitor😂 designed to work, 1 day more than warranty 🤣 their cams are much the same Dicky.

Hi @everyone #everyone My aoc monitor is flickering same as this video. Also I'm using a different power supply can any one give me a reason for this.. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g7d-jJCfmtitlKs.htmlsi=G7ylWyWwGyzzT3uG

You should check the basics such as is there power to the device (fuses, loose connections etc.) and does the internal PSU have an output before diving in. You can waste a lot time and effort with your approach and is not a good way to teach people.👍🤫 (edit typo)

First ...

Let me discharge the capacitor, since 13v is extremely dangerous... 🤦

Love your repair vids👌👌

It may be an oxidized pin or a dry solder joint

What is that machine behind you ? Looks like it has a joystick controller?