just a couple but its all good

These are pretty cool, thanks for watching!

I love these things! I use them on almost every light, thanks for watching!

Yeah, I looked at the Rigid module for quite some time before finding this one. Thanks for watching!

Something like that, makes it a nightmare when wiring 6 of these into a control box. Thanks for watching Chad!

I've got a bunch of them that are going into a switch/control box for the Wrangler. Kinda' like a big Spod, but with more switches and strobe capability!

This is what i was also asking, im looking for the same setup application, ever figured out where to find that module to do like you said? Thanks

@@marin0ujka You need the strobe module and 2 relays. I don't remember who but I've seen someone on tiktok is selling just that but in a self contained box you can tap directly into your fuse panel with for the running lights, Personally I wired my own box up. I did it years ago so I no longer have a diagram and i'd have to think about how I wired it up because I wired 50 3/4 dot lights into 2 junction boxes then I wired my relays into their own box with the flasher and then tied the two together so I have a lot going on that id have to try and remember what all I did, but it's just the flasher and 2 relays, been running strong for years.

@@marin0ujka I'm pretty sure first relay is normally closed and gets main power feed from running light switch, So long as running light switch is on the relay feeds power to the running lights, from there the signal wire is switched by the strobe switch, when you turn strobes on first relay opens and therefore running lights are no longer powered, the second relay is normally open with main power coming from running light switch again so it only functions while your running lights are supposed to be on, the signal wire is your strobe switch and the output goes to your strobe module, from there you can use the strobe modules outputs to feed your lights. If the strobe module doesn't have enough amperage output to feed all your lights (you have too many or you are using non led) then you would need a 3rd relay to amplify the power output but I'm not so sure how long that relay would last with constant cycling from the strobe module, you'd probably want something specific for that task. Now this all needs to take place inside of a junction box so you can have multiple wires than can be feeding power (relay A output and strobe output) I'm not 100 percent sure but off the top of my head I imagine that's how I wired it and I don't think I've had any problems with backfeeding from relay a to the strobe module or vise versa.

@@marin0ujka I take that all back, ignore the complex shit I said in the last comment, I did that because I utilized both outputs of my strobe module for different patterns but you can only do that on separate lighting circuits, if all your lights are wired together I see no reason why you couldn’t use a single relay and make 30 your output, and 87 and 87a your running light and strobe light module inputs. And make the strobe light switch your signal wire to switch the relay from one to the other, running lights will be your normally closed side and strobe your normally open side, when you flip the strobe switch it will turn on your strobe module wired to that switch and it will switch the relay to the normally open side which will be your strobe module outputs. This will make all lights flash together and it will override your running lights, and will work with running lights on or off so long as the relay is wired to constant power, I’d choose an ignition circuit for that.

I'm not sure how this module would work with hazards as it would just cycle the module on and off. This would reset the module everytime the hazards blinked. I'm sure there is a way to do it, I just can't think of it off hand.

So if i connect to my hazards although i will not be able to control flash pattern will it do all cycles like on default mode when i turn on my hazards ? Thanks

@@JoseOrtega-xn4mj I honestly don't think this would work out how you want it. Your hazard lights would just turn the module on-off-on-off and not really stay on long enough to cycle through any flash patterns. The module needs a constant power to go through the patterns.

Thanks 🙏

I have a bunch of these that are being used for a new switch box for the Wrangler. When I change all the lighting on the Liberty from incandescent to LED I will definitely add one or two. These modules don't work the greatest with regular lighting, but are great for LED's. Thanks for watching!

I need to do an update on these. Mine to have failed in the last 2 weeks. I spoke with the company and they said these are a new design and that they don't seem to work well with some LED lights because of some "start overload protection" I guess most modern LED lights are triggering this function and doing exactly as your's and mine. It's a huge pain!

In theory you could, are you just wanting to have flashing brake lights or are you wanting to have different "hazard" light patterns? If you just want flashing brake lights I have a video on a different module specifically made for that purpose. It's also a lot more simple to wire and it's considerably less expensive.

You are correct, they can be wired that way and I have done it in the past. I just found this to be a cleaner alternative, much less wiring and easier for most people to understand. I'm sure I'll have a video of how to wire and bypass the other type modules in the future. Thanks for watching!

@@RockyXTV yea, you looked like you know whats up. I cant imagine flipping a switch 14 times to get AUX beam. I subscribed.

@@pillormark Thanks!

@@RockyXTV Hi, I came across your video when trying to figure out how to do this exact thing. Did you ever make anything on how to wire up a light to have one switch allow the lights to be solid on but also have it set up to do strobe functions. I have tried to wire it up but seems like one would always take control. Either the solid on switch would only work or the strobe box would only work.

This module had 2 positive and 2 negative outputs, so ideally you would run a set of lights. The manufacturer states that this module can support 10 amps per "channel" so 20 amps total. If this is true you would be able to wire multiple LED lights to this module. You would just have to figure out what lights you want as left and right "channels" and just wire them together. Thanks for watching!

I may be able to put something together, it will be a while though, things are pretty backed up around here. It is really simple to use with a relay, you just wire the relay as normal and put this module on the 12v+ wire for your lights. Just make sure you install it after the relay not before, this would cause the relay to strobe and relays don't like to strobe. Thanks for watching!

According to Maxxima, 20 amps total, 10 amps per "side". You would have to do some simple math to figure out how many lights of your choosing you can use. WATTS divided by VOLTS. I'll use easy numbers just to keep this simple. You'll need to look up your own numbers. Figure out how many Watts your lights are, let's say one of them is 24 Watts & you have 12 Volts (24÷12=2) this means that light is 2 Amps. Each side of the flasher is rated by Maxxima for 10 Amps. This would in theory allow you to run 5 of those lights per channel. You can see how this changes with your light choice. If the light were 48 Watts (48÷12=4) now you could only run 2 of those per channel without going over 10 Amps. I hope that all made sense. Thanks for watching!

Unfortunately I do not, I don't know much about RC so I probably wouldn't have the best advice to give anyway. Thanks for watching though!

I am not the one selling them, they just sell through Amazon. The link to them in the description is my Amazon associate link so if you bought it through that link I get a few cents, but I don't work for this company in any way.

I think it's just the way they have the photo on their listing. The side with 2 Red wires should also have 2 White wires. It looks like the White wires were cut from the image because they were the same color as the photo background. I hope that makes sense.

You can get it on Amazon - goo.gl/rDmkFw Thanks for watching!

These modules are rated at 10A per light for a 20A total. You would be fine with 90W LED's but I would not recommend going any higher in wattage or using more that 2 90W lights. I have to say that these numbers are provided by the manufacturer, so I can't back this statement 100% as I have not tested these with that high of wattage. Thanks for watching!

Thanks sir.

I have not looked at the ratings for these in a while, but they used to be good. Companies are always changing things though, make them cheaper and sell more of them and sometimes you end up with a bad product. I can speak for the ones I got a while ago and they work fine, but as I said, they could be made a little cheaper now...

I think the module would be fine, but the flash pattern is so fast that it would burn out the filament in a regular style bulb. I could be wrong though, I've never tried it.

Okay I might try it and I might just replace the Flasher bulbs and turn signals with LEDs just to solve that problem but I'd like to try the regular filament bulbs first I'm on a fire department so I just got okay by my chief that's is why I was wondering

The module is rated at 10 Amps per "channel" and it has 2, so I don't think the module will have any issue. Let me know if it works or blows the bulbs, I'm really interested because you're not the first person to ask about this.

Link for this product is in the video description. Thank you for watching!

If you want the front and rear to do the exact same thing at the exact same time, you can use only one. Just be sure your lights are within the amperage range listed on the module (10 amps ?) If your lights are pulling more current than that, you'll need two modules. Thanks for watching!

You will definitely have those kind of people out there giving us off-roaders a bad name. I get a lot of the same kind of people diving cars, AKA BMW drivers. I also see a lot of people with lifted trucks and Jeeps that just fail to adjust their headlights after lifting their vehicle, I agree with you, those people are jerks. I have a very bright set of lights on the back of the Jeep just for that special kind of person, just in case I need to let them know they are a little to close. I hope you don't think all of us lifted truck and Jeep drivers are like that. Thanks for watching!

@@RockyXTV Wow. I gotta say, that was one of the most respectful and professional rebuttals I think I have ever seen. Lol. I mean It. Usually when people comment that type of stuff, they are looking to start an arguement or get a rise out of the poster/commenters. You shut that crap right down haha. I always try to use the whole "kill em with kindness" when I can. Other times not so much. And I'm not saying that the person who wrote that comment did so with the purpose of being a troll or anything like that. In fact, I can agree with him to an extent but their are idiots that drive all sorts of vehicle, not just trucks or jeeps or BMW's. I havent even watched the video yet but I'm hoping itll answer some of my questions. I just bought a curved 52 inch lightbar that is going to mount on my windshield, to compliment my 52 inch bumper lightbar. I bought a United Pacific led flashing module(damn near identical to the maxxima one) and I want to wire both of them to the module. I already have a 2 switch board with separate switches, one for each light. I took brought both lightbars, module and 12 volt marine battery inside my house to try and hook them up so they flash together but only one lightbar comes on. I also want to be able to just flip the switches and have them come on independently from the module, and have a momentary switch for making them flash. If you're video doesnt cover these questions I have above, do you know of how I would go about getting this done? Sorry for the really long comment btw. Oh, and for the record, I only use my lights either off road, back roads or sometimes on a regular 2 lane(for bright lights only, I mean c'mon, who wants to hit a deer? Lol) when no cars are coming or when no houses are directly in the path, aka on curves.