At 2.55 he talks about matrix metering, do you know how to do it with a full manual lens? WIth autofocus lenses it's very easy, you just half press the button and it gives you the value, but TS lenses have no autofocus so how do you meter?

Metering with the PC-E is straightforward. Whether you use spot, centre-weighted or matrix, the camera does it for you regardless of it being a manual or autofocus. I suspect you may be getting metering and depth of field confused. Pressing the DOF preview button will show you what is in focus, or you can use the button on the lens, but make sure you know how to use it. In all honesty, this is quite a special lens mostly used for architecture, and sometimes for landscape. It can work to either increase or decrease DOF, depending on what you want to achieve. If this is a lens you have, then please do some research before using it - if it is one you are yet to buy, ask yourself if you really need it. For most landscape work a prime Zeiss or the astonishingly good Nikon 24-70 will be a better option. Regardless of what you use, remember to avoid going any further than f11 if at all possible. Use f8 where you can and hyperfocus. Look at the work by Johnathan Crithley produces using this set-up.

I think you meter for the ground and th sky will take care of itself because its matching the ground metering with the filter on.

@@ColinDerbyshire thank you.

Jürgen Riß I wish you'd got an answer to you question as I'd have liked to hear the answer. I use two systems, the Cokin where the polariser is behind and a Formatt Hitech where is in front. I tend to use my filters only on my cropped sensor 7DII and I bracket and focus stack with my 5DIII, so I can get away with 85mm filters. This is because I started collecting my filters when I only used a crop sensor and I tend to use better glass on the 5DIII. Although I use a Cokin system my filters are a mixture of Cokin Nuance, Formatt Hitech and Kood, but it's a Cokin polariser when it's behind my filters and a Formatt Hitech when it's in front. Now I don't know if it's the quality of the polariser or where it is situated, but I seem to get much better results with the polariser in front. I seem to get better definition of the light.

karlg I see a lot of photographers combining the polarizer to the lens, then the holder attached in front of it with the ND. Especially for mountains. Polarizers should only be used in certain circumstances and for myself, sometimes I’m tempted to use them all the time, but in darker lighting conditions, it’s my opinion to avoid them

Watching this video and seeing Joe Cornish use hard and soft filters - then I would suggest to have both filters in your bag.

@BurrowingBunny Nonsense. Comparison shots with a number of different maker's filters have shown that Lee filters are only average in terms of color cast, some worse (much worse) and some with less color cast. The core point is that the high cost of the Lee filters does not mean better in terms of color cast. There are other systems out there which cost somewhat less and have better color, and there are some which are no worse than Lee products and cost a lot less.

+Von Blitzkrieg Gitzo of course