The more you work with lego parts the more you start to think maybe the designers spent MONTHS on a single part and its compatibilites

“This is going to be mathematical” yes this is exactly what I’m looking for

Great information! I'll have to watch it twice to fully understand it...and then still probably rely on good ol' trial and error because I was an art major.😂

Excellent little class on Lego geometry. Very handy. Well done.

Ok, thank you so much. I am watching and rewatching. I am still needing some help. Just getting stared in building so … Looking forward to some SNOT examples.

This was immensely helpful. I'm a fan of IB...I mean, LBUs!

Brand new to Lego and I love them.Having a blast. Your videos are very helpful and informative for learning.Thank you!

This is like lego university 😂 Would love to see a similar vid on 45 degree and other non right angle connections

This is invaluable information and explains a lot of my struggles to figure things out. I tried to put a curved 4x4 macaroni tile sideways onto a wall, and could not figure out how to give it two attachment points. It seems like the maths is just too complicated for it to work comfortably. I may have to do some working out.

I have needed this so much! Thank you for making this!

the headlight pieces work great in combination with the 1x1 brick with snot when creating a ramp out of the cheese wedge pieces to make it a smooth ramp.

Thank you for the great information, love your videos!

I wondered what LBU was! Thank you.

I had no idea. This is VERY useful. Thanks.

Very interesting glad i found this channel ! Making a base for an house modular would be very intersting.....

Brilliantly explained. Like and sub!

I was always bothered by tandem seating in Lego cars. I've built a couple that aren't. I've got a four seater monster truck that's got an eight stud wide interior. 10 studs at the walls. I based it loosely off an actual Lego monster truck ( the one with the tent and two mountain bikes) and at the length of the one from the set was short. But I added a beefy hood with a futuristic engine inside and it made it like 22 or 23 studs long. The bed looks short in a goofy way. But it seats 4 just like a real car and the front looks quite normalish until you look at the engine. I changed it's wheel structure to just one in front because I wanted to build another monster truck and didn't have enough wheels. I did use the same rubber band suspension as the set model but used bigger bands. So, when I mess with it again I'll extend the bed and return it to four wheels and it should look like a realistic king cab truck. Especially if I add two more doors. One of these days! What about suicide doors? Where both front and rear open in the middle. Hmmm.

Once again thank you!

Super interesting. Thank you

Incredible. I always learn so much from your vids. Will refer back to this so much in the future I know it. Thanks for sharing!

Very useful video! I personally prefer to talk in terms of "Plate" units instead of LBU. Fewer syllables, less abstract. For instance "two and a half plates" or "plus or minus a half plate... But otherwise, for the SNOT beginner, this is exactly the lesson people need :)

This is brilliant for beginners, well done! The key is understanding the relation between the numbers 1, 3, and 2.5. I'm used to calling the "LBU" the "height" (or sometimes the "thickness") of a plate, not the "width". The width for me would be one "stud", or "module" as I have heard the official set designers say. I use "brick", "plate", and "stud"; 1 brick (the height of a regular brick) = 9.6mm = 3 plates 1 plate (the height of a regular plate without the protruding stud, also known as a tile) = 3.2mm = 1/3 brick 1 stud (the width of a regular brick) = 8mm = 2.5 plates Going into finer details. A "stud" is useful as a measure of length because they are easy to count on top of pieces, for example a 2x2 or 4x8 etc, as well as over entire assemblies. But the measurement of 8mm is really the distance from the center of one stud to the center of the next one, not the overall physical width or length of the piece. Pieces are always 0.1mm smaller, so that they can be placed side by side every time without pressing against each other sideways. So for example, a 1x2 would in reality be 7.9mm x 15.9mm, not 8mm x 16mm. This can be noticed if you place a few 1x1's right next to each other on a plate and then twist them incrementally. That would be impossible if there was absolutely no gap between them. Also I believe the height of the actual protruding stud is half a plate, as you say, or 1.6mm. But the LEGO-logo on top adds another 0.1mm, so technically you can only build sideways over them if they are hollow or open studs and therefor lack the logo. This is why official sets always use some pieces that might seem weird when they do that, because they must use a piece that has the studs without the logo on top. Another cool thing is if you throw jumper plates into the mix. Since a jumper makes a half stud offset, or 4mm, if you combine that with the half plate offset created by SNOT-bricks you can actually get down to 1/4 plate offsets! (Or 1/4 LBU if you like). That's next level advanced building techniques!

super helpful video, thanks!

Great talk! :)

Great tutorial. Mahalo!

Great video! I have heard the term LDU....lego draw unit, but never LBU either way snot can help with NPU for AFOLs and TFOLs. You should do a video on Lego part relationships. I am constantly finding new ways to use parts and incorporate them into my mocs. I am sharing your channel information with some of the groups I belong to. You are putting out awesome content, and I hope I help you get more subscribers.

Thank you for helping explain what all these slightly different bricks are for, and giving me a framework for classifying them. 😊 I’m just puzzled as to why the plate thickness was chosen as the basic LBU rather than the stud height. Wouldn’t it be easier if everything measured a whole number of LBUs?

LBU is actually already defined as LDU - LDraw Units. There's a bunch of parts that have odd dimensions that require extra accuracy. Lego is better defined as Imperial units simply because the Lego group copied the design of the Kiddicraft brick, a British tooling which still used Imperial measurements. And I failed to detect any sand red. ☹

What a great video! I’ve been getting back into my Lego hobby the past few years and this is definitely a great intermediate concept that I’ve needed to learn to advance my builds

Great info! Hopefully it won't be like that one rare piece I know I have, just can't find when I need it.

Great stuff. Thank you.

Almost to 1k!

a Lego brick stud is 8mm x 8mm x 3.2mm .. or 0.314961 x 0.314961 x 0.125984 inch 0.125984 is NOT 1/8th inch, and 1/8th of an inch is 3.175mm since Lego bricks are made to within 0.005mm ... quality control would be utterly broken before your statement was true

I love your videos but your audio is so quiet and inconsistent in volume making it quite hard to hear you, which makes it rather discouraging to watch the video despite being interested in the topic. Might be worth getting a better mic, and/or at least boosting and "normalizing" the audio so that the volume is not just louder but consistent in volume too.