excellent job, love it

Nice build!!! Concerning the Tamiya decals I'm really surprised how few experienced modelers know how to use them correctly. I'm not that experienced myself as a modeler, however, I started with some Tamiya builds after hearing what awesome kits they make. I was then hit by the surprise of people saying how bad the decals are. It just didn't sound right to me so I decided to really look into it. I was glad to find some information on these decals that does not seem to be common knowledge. First they are of an entirely different make up so, all of the chemicals you may be use to like Micro Set and Micro Sol will actually destroy them. If you do want to use something like that you need to use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer. But these chemicals are not really needed. The true trick to Tamiya decals is the use of very hot water. Most decals do not require hot water, but Tamiya decals have glue that is activated by hot water. If the water is not steaming, then you will just keep pushing the decals around all day and it will never stick. Hold a Tamiya decal is steaming water for 30 seconds, place it where you want it, push out any extra air and let it try. Don't move it around a bunch or the glue will just re-dry while you are moving it. For Tamiya decals it's all in the heat.

Very awesome

Looks really nice, had something similar happen to me with an Airfix bf 109 with the same small mottling on the sides. Hated how it looked at first but once it was finished I ended up really liking it with the decals and weathering.

Very nice build!!👍👍.. I always use a combination of airbrush and hairy brush on my models.. they complement them selfes. Glad the tamiya decals worked great. The problem with tamiya decals is storage...when new, they work fine but if stored for some time they just break apart in the water...had that problem on a P-47 kit a had in the stash for some years. Best regards.

Интересная техника, впервые вижу. Прикольно.

Nice ,👍

Actually, I think you are the MVP of the paint job. Well done! 👍

Brilliant job! I was thinking that I could paint the very fine brush strokes and then smudge them with a larger brush or (makeup?) sponge afterward to blend them. Do you think that would work also? Not so much for this particular paint job, but other types of mottling.

what the stencil you used

Just the initial 'mottling' looks great!! Fantastic job sir. Thanks for posting. It's very informative.

Uhuh, i used AK paint once. And never again. It cloged my airbruish so much that i spend a week cleaning it and the paint cracked on the model surface which was catastrophic because i painted a Tiger tank interior. I still wonder how i saved this model.

Wow, a real "expert" at work. The interior of Major Wick's aircraft Bf 109 E-4 was painted in RLM 66 and the camouflage pattern consisted of RLM 74 and RLM 75 upper surfaces, with RLM 76 on the fuselage sides and undersides. The spots werte applied by brush in probably either RLM 71 or RLM 02. It's an ineradicable legerd that all Bf 109 E's during the so called Battle of Britain were finished in RLM 71/RLM 02 on the uppersides. Oh, by the way, Major Wick flew this aircraft, Werknummer (W.Nr.) 5344, since spring 1940 till his death in November 1940. But I suppose you know it all better...

Zelensky will take it!