That's very good to hear. I am glad this and other videos have been helpful and thank you very much for letting us know!

Thank you! The big Burgmaster is gone, a friend of mine took on that project. I have the little benchtop Burgmaster as well and hope to get that running soon.

Thank you for watching

And thats just a quick overview. We have found some new tools lately I want to do another video on.

Shars has been good and been getting better, CME has worked very well for us, there are good vendors on eBay but I suggest doing a small test order with them until you confirm the product is good.

sierraamerican.com. they are the best I have found. I like the plastic ones because you can just drop the tool in the pocket with no worry of wear on the taper. The metal ones make me worry.

Thank you! I have had a new set from CME sitting on the bench for months waiting to be tested. I just haven't gotten any holders for them so no good way to check them yet.

Generally a sharp fly cutter is the best. For faster production il use a face mill with aluminum inserts. If you want the face mill to do an even better finish I sometimes will grind the face of the inserts so thry are razor sharp. Jusy be sure to do this on a surface grinder or some way to ensure you grind the same amount off each insert or it will vary your tool length at each insert.

Yeah but you can't remove that pin if you are doing heavy milling. Might depend on the power of the machine you might be using but that pin is critical for our work. Bench top machines yes I would probly remove it for speed and convenience.

@@TigermothRacingTV That pisant little pin won't hold any torque. It is only for preventing rotation while installing with the drawbar and that is all. It's not there to resist cutting torque. I removed it from our Bridgeport years ago and it works just fine without it, even though we mill almost exclusively stainless steel and push the machine to the limit. The proof is on all the tooling you showed. There is not the slightest trace of wear in that pin slot on any of your (or mine) tooling. Look at the pin slot in the center where the pin resides and you will see no marks from the pin resisting torque. If you do manage to overcome the friction of the taper that pin will just shear off. Because the pin resides in a reduced diameter part of the collet, if it does shear off it is a LOT of fun trying to get the collet out again.(ask me how I know).

I keep the pin/key so I can have repeatability as my spindle has runout.

Thank you! I never used the TTS but if you are going to cnc I would try to get to CAT40 as soon as possible. Thats the biggest series of tooling there is.

​@@TigermothRacingTV many tanks for your answer, unfortunately my machine is small, oly can handle R8.

I have not come across any bad brands of face mill but I like the one piece integral shank options from Shars.

I shop around. Ebay, Shars, Banggood, be careful and watch the concentricity tolerances but most are quite good.

Hi we are a factory for machine tool accessories from China.We Could offer R8 collet,ER collet,collet chuck,drill chuck,end mill adapter,shell mill arbors and so on. If you need welcome to contact me. Thank you.