Thank you for the compliment RJ McCee. You are too kind. Dino

@@bike_build_wander thank you, glad you enjoy the content.

thank you for the feed back Dino

Thank you, I hope it helps out others. It's fun to put together. Dino

That's great to hear, I'm glad the information was helpful. Dino

I like the video idea, thank you Dino

Thank you for the comment. Dino

Glad it was helpful! Dino

Thank you glad you find it usefull

Thank you Mal, I think many will "tweak" the free play to get the feel where they want it but I hoped this would be a good starting point. as always, thank you for the comment. Dino

Thank you very much, I am glad you enjoy it. Thank you for the feedback. Dino

Glad you like them! Thank you for your feedback. Dino

Glad you find it useful, thank you for the comment Dino

Thank you very much!

Glad you think so!

Sometimes that will happen, and I should have mentioned that. I find also that if you shift with only one or two fingers the clutch may drag a bit because the clutch is not pulled right to the bar because of the remaining fingers grasping the bar and stopping full articulation. Not sure if this is what is happening with yours but I should have mentioned this in the video Thank you for the great feedback. Dino

@@DinosTinkerShed It's still not 100% perfect, but 75% better. My friends 2011 with 20000km (mine is a 2018 with 12000km) shifts so smooth its ridiculous, up and down you can barely feel the gears. On mine sometimes its silky smooth, sometimes I feel like its a bit rougher than I'd like (and I make sure to fully pull the clutch and I've ridden over 300000km on motorcycles so I'm pretty sure it's not my technique hehe). Maybe it's been used for hardcore offroading and clutch has been abused more than normal for the km...

@@Speedytrip Mine is brand new and has similar issues.

Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed it, and thank you for following the channel. Dino

Glad to help out Dino

Awesome, thank you! Dino

I don't disagree with your philosophy, I actually run mine with a little less that 10mm myself, however I wanted the video to reflect the way the manual specified the process so new riders would have a baseline to set the clutch up with repeatable results. I think as a person rides more they will come to a point where they will fine tune the lever to their liking. I am hoping the video provided the foundation to make more refined adjustments in the future for those who choose to do so. Thank you for the great feedback. Dino

@@DinosTinkerShed Agreed, best to show the manufacturers recommend setting in the video.

Glad you like the content, and thank you for the kind words. Dino

Thank you, I'm so happy you enjoy the videos, so far the guards are good. I have not really put them to the test yet but will do a follow up once I get some more miles on them. Thanks again . Dino

Yes, that is a great suggestion, thank you for taking the time to make it. Dino

Thank you for the comment and question, I always point out I am not a mechanic but will put in my thoughts. I would think you have something not assembled right inside. I did the same thing when I did my clutch and it would not release. I would open it up and check to make sure all the friction and steels are tight to each other, there should ne no gaps in the pack once assembled. I hope this helps. Dino

@@DinosTinkerShed I think when I marked top with sharpie it was rotated out of synch. Id swear I turned it and this would not have been wise unless was also marked on case. I also figured I had moved the throttle cable. After unhooking the cable from both sides lever and case link .. I then reconnected both and now clutch actually feels normal with slight play before engaging... thanks!

Thank you for the input for sure, this is true but most new dr650 owners still have the hand guards in place which makes the gap method difficult to do without removing the hand guards. Again, this video was the basic factory method for new owners to get rolling, as they ride more they will undoughtabley learn more sifistocated methods. Thank you for the comment. Dino

When I installed my clutch I started with motul full synthetic oil and the clutch was really grabby on engagement. I switched to shell Rotella t4 and the clutch is operating much better. I would try a different oil and see if that helps, you could also add a bit more free play but then you risk the clutch not fully disengaging.

@@DinosTinkerShed Seems that the adjustment did the trick though i will change oil and use the same as you... rotella t4. I just backed down the adjust a little bit and added in the free play you spoke about in the video and its perfect.

I think each clutch is a bit different, but my clutch starts to "drag" and engage About 1-1.5cm off the bar and fully engage once all the free play is taken up. Dino

Yep, that's how it should be, that's your free play, great question. Dino

@@DinosTinkerShedthanks Dino! You’re the man!

Can you take the actual arm off of the clutch case and move it over one tooth?

Ron, I am sorry to hear that you are having issues with your DR. I just want to say that I am not a mechanic so take my advice with a grain of salt. When I have issues like this (take something apart, clean it, reassemble and it does not work) I always retrace my steps and also try to eliminate potential causes from sub systems (like the cable). To eliminate the cable, I would disconnect it from the clutch arm down at the case cover, you can then cycle the cable and feel if there is any unusual resistance or friction. If the cable seems to move freely then I would suspect the clutch pack is assembled incorrectly. I did this in my video on changing the DR clutch, when I re assembled the clutch the first time I did not seat the basket correctly and ended up with one or two of the friction dicks being "pinned" between the two halves of the basket. This meant that the clutch could not fully compress and there were gaps between the plates. I noticed this before I reinstalled the pack so I do not know how it would impact clutch pull, but I do believe that if the clutch worked correctly before you took it apart then most likely something is not assembled correctly. I hope this helps, if you still need more help, I suggest posting the question on DRriders, this forum is full of smarter folk than me and they love to help out with issues like this. Eather way, please let me know how you make out. Dino

@@DinosTinkerShedThank you for sharing. A wrongly installed pack seems highly likely. *cries* Plus point is that I can check if the #2 steel is inserted correctly. Bummer because The Netherlands has a big problem getting a proper gasket for a '92 since Europe hasn't sold a DR since +/- 2008. I'm not against liquid sealant, but they require a long dry periode, especially now in the winter.

I agree with the sealant, I prefer to use it only as a bonding agent for the gasket but if needed I will use it alone if I have no other choice. Good luck, please let me know how you make out. Dino

@@DinosTinkerShed Hey Dino, Well the DR is back from the shop... and boy did I mess it up good. While trying to fix the sticking and heavy clutch, I probably moved the timing chain and possibly the gears as well. My whole timing was 90° off and the bike would have never started. I thought it might be the carburator, so I send it in for a tune-up and tire change while it was already there, as I was at my end guessing what was wrong. Oh boy, the cost of repair was almost what I bought the bike for but I choose to let them fix it. Otherwise I'd be throwing away too much money anyway. I'm now officially married for live to the DR. I damaged the starter clutch with the timing being off. Apparently it was already worn, but I gave it it's final push. A lot of expensive gears grinded and they eventually tore open the entire bike fixing and cleaning it, properly aligning the timing and valves, changing gears and what not. The liquid seal didn't hold as the damaged edges I caused (I overlooked a bolt and started hammering and prying the lid off) were too deep and they caused a hundred meter long oil spill after they serviced the bike and used some liquid seal together with the gasket while riding the bike. They used liquid metal to fill up the gaps. Luckily I was spared the cleaning costs. Carburateur was fine though! Yesterday I took it out for a spin. Slapped MotOZ RallZ tires on and did some stretched of sand. All good now!

WOW, that is terrible, I am glad your DR is repaired but that is not fun at all. I hope this does not turn you away from home repairs. I have retimed my DR before when I had my head off to re-ring it at around 40k, just curious, did you have the lower cam chain gear off? Dino

Correct, I should have mentioned that, thank you for catching that. Dino