Great video, clearly explained. For those like me who are electrical dunces, I have only 3 Peco electrofrogs on my layout and they are simply wired for those who might think that they don't need to modify the points as you have, even though your method is the best. Insulated joiners on the inside straight ahead and diverging rail and a wire soldered to the rails immediately following the insulated joiner. Obviously this is required where the point leads to a dead end siding, otherwise there would be no power supply to one of the siding rails. So far-touch wood- I have had no issues with electrical continuity forward of the points.

it is worth having a go at making points, copper clad sleepers and rail is the cheapest way - either a kit that comes with a template or using Templot and printing. its not that hard, and it is cheap, also it makes adding longer check rails, conductive checkrails etc easy. also can save a bit of space as its suddenly a lot easier to start points on curves or have say a three way both going the same way - this can be huge in fiddle yards etc the main cost is time, and needed some sort of motor or rod actuator to lock it, the time issue should not be underestimated - nor should the fact the sleepers will typically look different to ready to run track unless you also buy track with correct sized sleepers, which can then look "wrong" and slightly narrow gauge. this is something I've done with success before, however the planned upcoming OO layout (your RFID video convinced me in the end) its PECO electrofrog throughout due to time concerns. and thanks for a very simple, but very clear overview

Hi Rob, an excellent video, love the graphics which help with seeing what’s happening re the current flow in the point and the frogs. Hope all is going well re your layout; any sneak peaks yet!!! All best Marc

I use servo motors to move my points and to swap the frog polarity, I 3D printed a couple of little brackets and put microswitches on so when the servo changes direction, it switches the microswitch over to change the point polarity. Works quite well for me :)

Very well explained. Now I actually think I got me head around frog juicing! :)

Thanks for this video Rob. I a few moments you explained something I'd been struggling to get my head around for ages - wiring electrofrog points.

Peco now make Unifrog points - which can be used "as-is" and will be insulfrog by default, but can also be use as electrofrog by cutting and wiring correctly. I am buying their bullhead track, which has prototypical sleeper spacing and is absolutely lovely to look at, although the points are frightfully expensive (I pick up used finescale flatbottom rail points for hard to see locations to save money).

Very informative video Rob, well done keep up the great work! 👍

Nice explanation, I'm using both inulfrog and electrofrog points on my layout. I had quite a few insulated points so have used them on my DC section but all the DCC section is electrofrog bar one of the two crossings. One I adapted myself but the other I left as its not an easy task and Peco unfortunately don't make electrofrog crossings in code 100. For frog polarity I used small relays that switch the polarity along side the point motor operating, I made a video on this myself a year or so ago.

Thanks for sharing the info in this video. The MERG kit circuits look to be the bee's knees and I would enjoy building them too. So I must get one to test out myself, but if you need a hand to build any give me a shout.

Another really useful video. Thanks, Rob. When I watched there was piano music in the background that I found intrusive.

Great video mate,what do I do about the frog polarity if I am throwing the points manually and not using a juicer or point motor etc

Excellent video, I’m just at the point of layout point work so this has come in handy

If you're using Arduinos and servos you could always use relays to handle polarity, that's the route I've gone down and it's just an extra couple of lines in the sketch. Bit of a click when they switch but it's lost amongst servo and train movement.

Excellent vid. I have to wait to get insulating fish plates but instead of that and everything else what if I wired up the siding track to the connecting box that has the loop track wires attached? I am terrible at electronics

All very interesting stuff

Well this is an informative video 📹. Enjoyed it.

spot on matey

I also use servo motors with the MERG mount and microswitches but although initially I would remove the spring I stopped doing that as the blade would start moving away from the hinge and wouldn't close properly on rails. Charlie suggests a remedy for this but I just kept the springs. The servo motors have no problem in switching the point and the sound of the blade switching over is feedback for me to know that the point has switched properly.

A very good video. I am planning to use Peco electrofrog points on a small dcc layout, but I am not going to wire the points to any point motor. Therefore am I correct to say fitting the plastic joiners at the frog is all I have to do and the points should work just fine?

Can you point me to anywhere that shows the varuious codes for peco track I am utterly confused and have searched high an low. Some speak of code 100, 80,75 SL 100 etc ???

Great video, thank you! I do have a question though! I have a double loop that has 2, two-point crossovers. I'm using the hornby standard insulfrog point. They join the loops on either side of the board - so a train can run around part of the inside loop, out to part of the outer loop and back in to the inside loop again, continuously. the smaller locos seem to handle the points fine but larger locos don't like them at all, and stall or stutter over the points. i've tested the conductivity of the points and they seem fine, so i'm left a bit confused. i have used insulated rail joiners where the points join each other (on both rails). Any ideas welcome!

Where did you get the mount for the servo motor or did you print it yourself? Thanks for a very informative video.

A good video and well explained. Although I am still confused over frog juicers. I understand the mods required to the points and presently modifying all my points prior to installation, approx 40 in total. If I use for example, seep or peco, motors, with a switched frog supply, do I still need a frog juicer, to prevent shorting. The cost of juicers would be another £300. Any help would be appreciated from yourselves, or any reader of my problem, Regards, x The Bigfella x

Hi Rob, I’ve got standard Hornby Insofrog points. Unfortunately my train stops moving when I flick the points to steer the train onto the inner circuit. I’ve tried link power clips but they don’t work. What should I do? Matt

Peco will be introducing unifrog points (such as on their Bullhead range) to the code 100 & 75 streamline ranges which simplify things even further. They can be used out of the box as insulfrog or electrofrog points and won't require insulting rail joiners. I like jazz, but found the levels very intrusive on this video. Sorry :( I'd sooner not have the music at all.

Just thinking 🤔and wondering 😔too.....do you need one of those frog detection things for each 👉 point??

Any thoughts on unifrog Rob?

I need help I've got a set of Electrofrog points and the blade has broken off one what do I do

Useful information but why the background music? It's like trying to have a serious conversation in a lounge bar.

Actually, yours is the best description on points I've seen. Better than Chadwick. 👍

So.. you say you don't need to modify the points .. but then you modify the points and then need £££'s of other equipment to modify the modification! Am I missing something?

Interesting comment that I appreciate but your background piano noises way too loud have a good day mate

Good video but the background jazzy piano music drives me to distraction

Please don't recommend 'frog juicers'. We should not be doing anything on our model layouts that causes or relies on the side-effects of shorting. If designed properly, a layout should not have any shorts. Shorts can cause all kinds of unexpected behavior and interference issues on DCC layouts. Wire properly and use a conventional switch attached to a point motor. The only justified use of 'frog juicers' is turntables.

Hi great and useful video, but too fast to give you time to absorb the points you are making, which is annoying because they are good points! And the background music is distracting!

Get rid of the god damm music