Machinist jack?

Hi. Your the reason I'm taking draw and design for production in highschool. I want to be an engineer when I an adult. Awesome video.

@@hunterlilmanallenWish I had done that in high school. Good luck

Slitting saw arbor?

3 ball bearings? 1 axial and 2 radial bearings? Make a grinding spindle so you don't abuse the old hand grinder?

THE CANISTER OF CONTEMPT

@@Unstopapple THE BIN OF BANISHMENT

@@UnstopappleTHE BARREL OF BLOTS

The Bucket of Blunders

...where to put the bigger container if it is scrapped?

I also watch her channel

Blondi

What channel is that?

@@Cactusape blondihacks , the best machinist on KZfaq

I always liked how Applied Science edits his videos; first show off the thing he made, then show the prototypes that didn't work and how it was made. For machining videos presented in "start with stock, end with part", I never quite understand what everything is going to look like at the end. So the videos where they show you the parts first, then make them, make a lot more sense. (Sure, when you're making something yourself, you don't get the actual part to work off of. But, you did model the part and plan the order of operations, so you start with a lot more context than KZfaq viewers get.)

Glad you agree grin 😁 Some folks prefer not seeing what I'm making, but I feel like if I didn't show at least a glimpse, no one would bother clicking the video 🤷‍♂

@@InheritanceMachining It does ruin some of the surprise of the finished item, but it does add another aspect to the video. Seeing a glimpse of the finished item and wondering "how in the heck did he machine that bit of it?" leaves me eager to see that particular operation

@@corey_nz that's always my hope!

​@@InheritanceMachiningThanks for these videos

Underrated

How us it sad, it's amazing

Nah, He's one of the best machining channels on here definitely reasonable to get excited. Not many get visual, content, and audio quality all in one.

Soothing and informative narration, inclusion of mistakes, and great production value. One of my favorite channels, for sure.

Nah, it means that you're a rational human being

not sad, but perfectly reasonable

You know me well 😂

So basically 1mm metric pitch, just 0.023mm off.

You’re mistaken, BSC/BSA is 24tpi, however Raleigh used 26tpi until standardisation and persisted for a while after to save changing their tooling in one factory. So 26tpi is Raleigh-thread

@@emilcarr7190Wikipedia disagrees, and also other sources. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Cycle?wprov=sfti1

The bicycle connection makes a lot of sense, the clutch mechanism reminds me of a pedal brake

Your talking about old bike stuff and even then there were lots of proprietary, so called, 'standards' . These days the only standard in the bike industry is that there is NO standard. The majority of modern bikes use M6x1 or M5x.8 small hardware. Bottom bracket 'standards' can be almost entirely non/standard. Even back in the day before modern press fit garbage and its idiotic QC and manufacturing issues, We had BSA threads, Italian, French, Swiss, Raleigh's proprietary threading, and many more. Old French bikes have a whole bunch of odd standards making them very difficult to find replacement parts. Fortunately BSA has become an accepted standard, 1.370" x 24tpi. T47 is a larger diameter variant on threaded BBs and a very few Italian manufacturers are stuck in the old days. There's also numerous headset and steerer tube 'standards. Old style threaded hub axles (higher end bikes now use 'thru axles') might have used 3/8x26 or 24, also 9mm or 10mm x1 and undoubtably others. Campagnolo used all sorts of weird proprietary threading back in the day. Thread tolerances can be so loose and sub standard (on cheap bikes) as to make the 'simple' cone adjustments not just a little frustrating. If you really want to be confused, look at the vast array of tire size standards! For such a simple, supposedly reliable machine, modern bicycles are often proprietary, complex and unreliable. The QC on overpriced bike junk is shameful and they're constantly trying to 'reinvent the wheel' to impress those fooled by marketing BS. As a lifelong cyclist, retired machinist, inspector, turned small business bike mechanic, this is all rather shameful in my point of view. Quality and engineering is extremely bad on overpriced production bikes in general. Even the most expensive. This has all been brought about for reasons of marketing BS, corporate profiteering, Asian manufacturing and modern consumer's intention to create landfill and always the 'upgrade'. Ironically, cycling is known as a 'green sport'.

Thank you very much, sir! It all comes with the territory so why act like those things don't happen? 😁

I'm glad to hear that, man! And thank you so much!

Just the voice as well! The voice is calm and assured. Brandon, do a podcast.

Right back at you my soldier friend!

He is the only machinist who explains what is being done from the "break it down to stupid level" all the way up to the calculus-based knowledge to design a project to see it completed. That is why I find his videos so entertaining and relaxing. I LOVE MATH and calculus, ohysics, and sciencey stuff.. However, one of my daughters is directionally (north, south, east west) and math challenged says, "Apples and oranges were never meant to be added or multiplied; they were meant to be SEPARATED!" She can write and edit papers like somebody who has a PhD is writing!

Much appreciated, man. And thank you for your service! 🇺🇸

There is a fine tradition of machinists in the Army, still a few around. An instructor I met at former FT Lee was a military vehicle restorer. Got bored of Jeeps etc & was building out a WWII Mobile Machine Shop. All the tools were commercial off the shelf, in fact the military TMs are now some of the better manuals available. And if course the tool set included a shaper. 🙂

Much appreciated, Robert!

You saw that too! 😂 It's the end result that matters

Nah not really. Both can be both but you can get descent result with a die if you just take a couple of passes with a single point cutter before hand

Yes, split dies to cut a new thread, the split gives the ability to adjust the thread somewhat, or do a couple of passes. The die nuts should only be used to renovate an existing damaged thread.

I've heard people say this, but otherwise have seen no evidence elsewhere to support it. I've used both types to cut threads with no issues.

Dies are used for both creating new threads, as well as cleaning or repairing dirty or damaged threads. Dies designed for creating new threads are made with high speed steel, as opposed to re-threading dies, which are made from carbon steel. Thread dies are available in the split round adjustable, or hex varieties.

Correct, hex dies are for chasing threads not cutting, that's why they're Hexagonal in shape so you can use a wrench on them. To the ppl who will say "well I've used hex dies for cutting threads and it worked just fine yadda yadda" well you can also use a pair of pliers to pull your nose hairs or a Deburring tool to cut chamfers or use a wrench as a hammer but that doesn't mean that's what they were Designed for.

My pleasure! Thanks for following along!

I really like that

I've heard about that technique but never took the time to try if out. I really need to though because 80% real time in single point threading is the last few thou getting it right 😆 Thanks, Bruce!

@@InheritanceMachining Indeed. Also: this is a valid use case for hex die nuts. It is not widely realised they are not intended for cutting threads from scratch, and it is risky doing so in anything stronger or tougher than mild steel.

I'm glad you agree! 😆

I'm more worried about that little m6 thread snapping off 😂 Thanks!

@@InheritanceMachining It's like a shear pin, just a much harder to replace one.

@@ADBBuild exactly. I discovered the same intentional failure point on my mill's quill handle a while back 😂

You are very kind, Dave. Thank you!

Thank you sir! And that's a great tip. I used to do that exact thing but came to prefer just using my hand though i see now what you mean about possible up/down deflection causing error. I should do a test to see how much that affect it!

Momma says that only

You are very kind, but thank you. Scotchbrite works wonders 😂

Honestly not a bad idea 😂

Hey a lot of this stuff is pretty broadly applicable if you have an open mind 😁 Glad your following along!

@@InheritanceMachining thanks for replying and always providing great content! I recently designed a computer monitor mount made of wood and I got to apply some of the engineering principles I learned in your videos. Many thanks and keep up the great work!

Thanks Bruce! A longer handle would most certainly help but I was honestly surprised the little M6 thread at the base didn't snap off with the force i needed to hang onto it as is haha

Ok, so how does it work? I can't figure it out

@@samwise098 So, the die-holder assembly spins freely on the shaft, but when the handle is pushed or pulled the cones move outward and the die holder stops. The part I didn't get was that because you're putting forward force on it, it feeds the die into the part, making the cut. I . . . Huh. Do you run the lathe in reverse to get it off? Otherwise I guess I don't understand it. Point is the clutches just stop rotation, it's the operator pushing forward that actually begins the cut.

That's alright 😂 First time I saw the mechanism (in Jonesey Make's video) I didn't quite get it until I saw it in action. Also your description is exactly right. And I do have to reverse the lathe to back the die off. Probably could have made that a little more clear

@@InheritanceMachining You're making a machining video, not a reference manual. It's all good, I just nerd sniped myself. :D

Much appreciated!

I've been in your shoes! Glad they can be helpful

You're going to have a lathe before you know, it, Sally 😉

Sure thing. That board actually doubles as a drop protection for when I'm swapping heavy chucks. never actually dropped one, but would hate to damage the ways!

😂 I'm not gonna lie that's pretty awesome. I do appreciate you spreading the word while you could though!

I was just saying how a lot of this stuff is still applicable in a lot of other areas! Glad you like it man!

Woohoo! Thank you very much

haha nice. I might need to incorporate that in my vernacular. also same on the mechanism. had to find a video of it in action the first time I came across it. I think it was a Jonesey Makes video

Thanks!

Thank you, sir!

Thank you, sir!

Pythagoras was da man

Thanks, man!

Thanks man! And yeah probably not a good idea now that I think about it 🤦‍♂

I didn't even know that. Thanks!

And for our next trick, a new center less handle for the tailstock so a drawbar can be installed to pull the MT tight. 🙂

@@ronkellis769 Doesn't matter in the tailstock because the load is axial (and torsional) which MT is very good at. It's only once you start applying "wobbling" side loads that you can run into problems, which basically means that the taper has to be rotating. A drawbar for the _headstock_ is totally feasible though (I have one, though I think I've only used it once).

@@ronkellis769 Myford ML7 lathes have a hollow tailstock barrel with a large diameter external thread; it's the only lathe in common use I know of which can accomodate a drawbolt, and about the only thing about them which is better than the more refined Super 7 which shares the same bed and many parts. (Having said that, the S7 tailstock is far better in every other respect)

I think that's a bit of a stretch, i just have a good editor 😂 But seriously, thank you 🙏

Thanks a lot, Ron!

Thanks, Joe!