Locking Carabiner Showdown

  Рет қаралды 39,234

HowNOT2

HowNOT2

2 жыл бұрын

We broke 8 carabiners in a bracketed system. They all broke above MBS or Minimum Breaking Strength that is printed on the spine of the carabiner. It's fun to watch things break! This video focuses on HMS carabiners or the pear shaped ones and most of that type if not all, are locking carabiners. These carabiners have different gates and we show them to you before breaking them. It's a hybrid between a buying guide and teaching what HMS lockers are and just pure edutainment. I think it helps trust carabiners you trust your life to, when you see HOW they break, not just a number printed on the side.
Watch the first video at • Guess which carabiner ...
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Introduction
00:36 - Ronda vs Nautilus
03:58 - Wild country vs gravel
05:42 - Madrock vs Edelrid
07:28 - Climbing technology vs black diamond
08:24 - Nautilus vs Gravel
10:15 - Climbing technology vs MadRock
10:41 - THE FINALE
11:35 - The olympics of Carabiners
13:34 - Outro

Пікірлер: 120
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Check out our other locking carabiner showdown video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p7eWf82JtbeacXU.html Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
@Austrialpin_
@Austrialpin_ 2 жыл бұрын
Hi guys! We were very well entertained again :) Thank you very much. We would like to clear up the "mystery" of why the AUSTRIALPIN HMS RONDO SLIDE AUTOLOCK got a "strange coating" after it was destroyed: The reason is as follows: the HMS Slide Autolock you used in this video does not have a "normal" anodised coating, like all the other anodised carabiners in this video - NO: The HMS HMS RONDO SLIDE AUTOLOCK is hard-coated, a specialized anodized coating. Thanks to its double strength and higher base-hardness, this coating offers higher robustness and therefore a much longer lifetime - perfect for frequent use. 💪 So these stretch marks come from the fact that we use a special double strength coating here on this carabiner. No powder coating! But we also like the theory of the "love between carabiner and hydraulics" :) 🥰 Greetings from Austria ! 🏔Thanks for the video - was again very entertaining 😆
@joeyebeling7681
@joeyebeling7681 2 жыл бұрын
I like this style of comparing the carbiners over the chain style you've done in the past. It gives you a chance to talk about each before round. Otherwise you're only talking about the ones that have broken.
@lucasbelknap6470
@lucasbelknap6470 2 жыл бұрын
It’s cool to see the solid gate on the Grivel slot into place as it stretched giving max strength!
@janhorak360
@janhorak360 2 жыл бұрын
I am a mountain guide and climbing instructor using the Grivel biners every day and find them the best. Its easy to get to use them one hand, its quick and you don't have to worry if the beginner ( client, kind) locks the screw. Just love them!
@mrwildman2607
@mrwildman2607 11 ай бұрын
Which one of the grivel beeners is your favorite? Looking to buy mega, lambda or plume for my belay device.
@will2918
@will2918 2 жыл бұрын
My vote is for the bracket system. But why stop at carabiners? Cams vs. cams. The black Totem vs the pink Tricam. Offset nut vs regular nut. Hex vs. cam. So many options. I'm sure that would be pretty difficult to orchestrate, but it could be interesting. Thanks for everything you've broken!
@johng5185
@johng5185 2 жыл бұрын
I feel you, I wanna see the roll n lock vs micro trax , I know the roll n lock will win easy but I could be wrong..
@AdamEdington
@AdamEdington 2 жыл бұрын
I prefer this style, Right at the end it looked like the second gate actually did engage under tension. Waiting for the steel biners show down.
@skymaze777
@skymaze777 2 жыл бұрын
I think the only reason those grivel carabiners are really useful is for ice climbing. That way, you can still get a locking carabiner when screwgate or auto-lock carabiners would freeze shut, and then the double gate makes it so you still have a good strength in the rare event that the standard gate accumulates ice in the nose and gets pushed slightly open. In any other situation it's just way overbuilt and cumbersome to use.
@ashmaybe9634
@ashmaybe9634 2 жыл бұрын
I actually love the action of the Grivel double gates. They have their uses and after very little practice are very quick to use.
@geoffsandvoss3127
@geoffsandvoss3127 2 жыл бұрын
I was literally about to say the twin gate is fantastic for ice! Definitely feels way less janky as a belay carabiner to use with climbing or belay gloves. I swear by using it all winter
@bennettzug
@bennettzug 2 жыл бұрын
other reason for it would be something needing super lightweight locking biners, as they are the lightest ones
@thatcrazydutchguy9824
@thatcrazydutchguy9824 2 жыл бұрын
I've been using the twingates since they arrived, I love the way they don't get stuck in colder situations. And when you get used to them they're quite fast as well.
@lordofnothing.
@lordofnothing. 2 жыл бұрын
i like the format as is. also loved that cheeky bedroom look when you held up the next candidates at the end.
@WillWillisIV
@WillWillisIV 2 жыл бұрын
I like the chain style. As each breaks, shorten the chain and go again. This way for each test you are guaranteed that all carabineers being tested at a time have had the same history.
@MI-wc6nk
@MI-wc6nk 2 жыл бұрын
great vid, really liked the format. keep up the great work!
@cal1776
@cal1776 2 жыл бұрын
I like this format. Thanks
@alexworks9659
@alexworks9659 2 жыл бұрын
Great test! One test I’d love to see as an arborist is a side loaded carabiner against say an 8” dia. Log. It’s frowned upon but have never really seen any testing in this specific application. (Basically a cinched anchor for srt) I personally have used an ansi gate DMM boa for this. That ending had a very onlyfans vibe!😆🤙🏽👍🏽
@BlokeOnAMotorbike
@BlokeOnAMotorbike 2 жыл бұрын
those DMMs are bloody bulletproof
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
I'll do the wrapped around small diameter and cliped with biner test for sure
@smooticus1691
@smooticus1691 Жыл бұрын
I love how you showed the busted Grivel in the video thumbnail so that we were all truly surprised in the end when it won. I still have an old Grivel Lambda and I love it for caving! I had an incident last year where I was unable to open a BD screwgate carabiner due to mud, I was mid-rope and miles deep and had to pour out some of my precious water onto it to get the screwgate to open. I learned that day to never again take a screwgate carabiner caving, because things could have gotten interesting if my water didn't get it open. I replaced it with my Grivel so I never have to worry about that issue ever again. I would love to see your testing on Grivel's newer gate designs and/or hear if they are more resistant to the flutter fail-case.
@MrPacobolo
@MrPacobolo 2 жыл бұрын
Great video, like the head to head format over the chain of death. Word of caution regarding the Edelrid, with the steel wear plate. A few years back Petzl tried something similar in the Croll chest ascender and as it wore down from use in sandy environments it turned in to a rope knife. Not something that’s easy to inspect with the naked eye so user beware.
@enjii
@enjii 2 жыл бұрын
Super informative as always. As an Australian I'd love you to do some tests on carrot bolts and bolt plates! They're pretty damn scary to climb on!
@sobertillnoon
@sobertillnoon 2 жыл бұрын
I am so glad that you guys made a follow-up with locking carabiners. The original carabiner video is the first video of yours I ever saw and it's what hooked me. (Pun intended)
@bjarki_rafn
@bjarki_rafn 2 жыл бұрын
These are stupidly exciting, I'm on the edge of my seat already and it's only the intro!
@1STstream
@1STstream 2 жыл бұрын
I so wish I would've started climbing 5 years ago and found this channel in time. Easily among top best channels on climbing. Gear nerds love this :D I guess I am one of those now.
@daanverhulst2656
@daanverhulst2656 2 жыл бұрын
Great test! But looking at the Grivel, when not under load it indeed only locks with one gate, but looking at the slow motion, you can see the second gate engaging when its loaded. So the strength really comes from the two gates. I'd be interested to know what happens when there really is only one gate engaged by removing one of them.
@ryansmith7605
@ryansmith7605 2 жыл бұрын
Great stuff. Like the bracket style more.
@bottomowashington
@bottomowashington 2 жыл бұрын
i like this bracket system more than the chain. thanks for the content as always
@FallLineJP
@FallLineJP 2 жыл бұрын
Just dropped some coin over at extremegear. Will always go there first to support your great work. Thanks for all of the amazing content, education, and chuckles. 👏
@kareno8634
@kareno8634 2 жыл бұрын
VERY Interesting! Thanks
@chrissonnenschein6634
@chrissonnenschein6634 2 жыл бұрын
it is interesting to note the different curve profiles of the test results ... presumably it is mostly the difference in load/breakage of new carabiners (sinusoidal) vs ones that have already been pre stressed from prior tests (linear)...
@joanbono6825
@joanbono6825 2 жыл бұрын
Definitely, 1 v 1 is more interesting than having all of them chained. Great video!
@DanielThakur
@DanielThakur 2 жыл бұрын
This is basically the hydraulic press videos but in the opposite direction 😂
@markp8295
@markp8295 2 жыл бұрын
Love the style. It reduces the number of high repeat loading cycles making it more realistic as if I manage to permanently deform a karabiner, I'm retiring it.
@davidseslar5798
@davidseslar5798 2 жыл бұрын
Definitely prefer brackets - more informative and still fun!
@ashmaybe9634
@ashmaybe9634 2 жыл бұрын
This style is best!
@harvey_the_rabbit
@harvey_the_rabbit 7 ай бұрын
I'd like to see a brand new Grivel pull!!!! Fully locked, 36kn! :)
@sobertillnoon
@sobertillnoon 2 жыл бұрын
With respect to which format I like better: I kinda like the repeated stress of the chain causing chaos better but I like the more informative nature of the head to heads (at least when it comes to round 1)
@joelmulligan2866
@joelmulligan2866 2 жыл бұрын
The grivel's make for fantastic caving carabiners, particularly for cowstails. As easy and quick to open as a non locker and doesn't get gummed up with mud like every other auto locker.
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 2 жыл бұрын
I do like the 1 vs 1 commentary, but the "chain of death" style had an awesome energy and was way more fun to watch.
@gotta-jibboo9139
@gotta-jibboo9139 2 жыл бұрын
those metolious bar stock lockers are the best for rappelling! I've only burnt thru 4 of them in 12 years.
@imahuman1996
@imahuman1996 2 жыл бұрын
All in line
@robertzarfas9556
@robertzarfas9556 2 жыл бұрын
I think you should do a fresh carabiner at each tier
@ilanvega5496
@ilanvega5496 2 жыл бұрын
I like the line but still fun at the end of the day
@shurdi3
@shurdi3 2 жыл бұрын
The 1v1 showdowns seem better, but you defo need a better graph at the ending showing what's what
@andrewhunter6536
@andrewhunter6536 2 жыл бұрын
The grivel is very easy to clip to things you just push the outer gate then clip normally. Easy as any autolocker. Does have a wide nose though
@kevinhoober1863
@kevinhoober1863 2 жыл бұрын
like it this way!
@timhoffmann9160
@timhoffmann9160 2 жыл бұрын
I have to say I personally love the Bullet Proof from Edelrid I use them for my anchors.
@soopersooper3291
@soopersooper3291 2 жыл бұрын
My thirst for destruction has been sated for another day
@stevecoxe3716
@stevecoxe3716 2 жыл бұрын
This style is great because it entertaining. It's better than the chain style. You could also use short slings or rope between them to bring it closer to a climbing scenario. To take it to the next level of informative would be to compare breaking strength to weight. Steel is super strong, but no trad person is going to be crazy enough to load up a rack full of them. While it would be awesome to take it to the extreme by measuring deflection of the carabiner at various loads during the break tests, the number of variables is likely to much to manage in a reasonable timeframe.
@WilliamPandaHough
@WilliamPandaHough 2 жыл бұрын
Haha we need a workshop projectile camera
@Kevintherubiconjeep
@Kevintherubiconjeep 2 жыл бұрын
This is great way. Wonder if you used a new one each time how that would change. The repetitive stress factor removed.
@Profixt
@Profixt 2 жыл бұрын
Let's go!
@DieKenyDie
@DieKenyDie 2 жыл бұрын
In line it seems to be more entertaining!
@outdoorwoodchipps3107
@outdoorwoodchipps3107 2 жыл бұрын
You should do a video together with the Slow mo guys. Would be interesting to see the breaking of gear in Detail.
@lleberghappy
@lleberghappy 2 жыл бұрын
I like that at 12:38 the broken gate actually closes again.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Built in safety feature haha
@KennyYehYeh
@KennyYehYeh 2 жыл бұрын
I've been thinking about using a ultrasonic cleaner on my carabiners to clean out the dirt and grit that have been building up. But I don't know if they affect the strength of the carabiners. What are your thoughts on whether ultrasonic cleaners weaken carabiners?
@equipeadrenalinaa
@equipeadrenalinaa 2 жыл бұрын
you breaking carabiners and me trying to buy them to assemble my rappel kit..😭😭😭...send some to me...😀😀😀
@deapthought1156
@deapthought1156 2 жыл бұрын
Showdown!
@samsonmihaly6139
@samsonmihaly6139 2 жыл бұрын
Can you do a test on the Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner with both ropes in the big loop? I think it would be very interesting.
@BlokeOnAMotorbike
@BlokeOnAMotorbike 2 жыл бұрын
that first biner break actually made me wince.
@joshrich507
@joshrich507 2 жыл бұрын
I thinks it’s a lot more run as far as video entertainment goes, if they are all in a line, and not this way, as it keeps you guessing which one is about to break
@dannyswayze2133
@dannyswayze2133 2 жыл бұрын
As a climber, both Trad and Sport, I prefer screw gates. Fool proof, everyone knows how to operate them, and I have yet to come across one undone.
@1995blooper
@1995blooper Жыл бұрын
Conspiracy theory: HowNOT2 intentionally ignored that the Grivel was re-engaging the second gate so we'd all comment about it and the video would get better engagement
@MegaBCAD
@MegaBCAD 2 жыл бұрын
I prefer them all in a line more suspenseful
@charles_513
@charles_513 Жыл бұрын
You should do non climbing carabiners
@oiyo5124
@oiyo5124 7 ай бұрын
please try the cheap 12kn no name ones with autolock
@pastelambong
@pastelambong Жыл бұрын
Do you have a test on rope chokes using carabiner as an anchor ?
@crazyskiier3989
@crazyskiier3989 2 жыл бұрын
Heads up. That can from the Lost Arrow Spire is likely considered a historic item and is protected by the National Historic Preservation Act. Anything over 50 years old is protected by that act on Federal lands. It’s tricky because things we often might pick up and throw away thinking its old garbage, might not be.
@ottard
@ottard 2 жыл бұрын
What happens when the steel isert is worn through on that edelrid? Will it leave sharp egdes?
@dirtbikevids
@dirtbikevids 2 жыл бұрын
Love the channel. Not sure if you have done a video about the following scenario. When I was young I went to the gunks and was climbing when a guy on the climb next to us decked from pretty high up. He was evacuated and from what we could tell the bolt side carabiner broke allowing him to hit the ground. The bolt he fell on had the hanger twisted sideways so you could either clip up or down instead of from the side like normal. Apparently he clipped the bolt down which made the carabiner hang on the nose and explode. I have talked to climbers who have been climbing forever and they never worry about which direction they clip when a bolt is twisted. Seems like it would be interesting to see if it is indeed as dangerous as is seems and to what degree the hanger being twisted sideways matters.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
interesting. i think i see what you are saying. we did stacked carabiners in a hanger but not improper clipped. Happens on pitons too.
@jackberdine
@jackberdine 2 жыл бұрын
This seems like more of a fair test for the participants 😂
@andrewwolfe8189
@andrewwolfe8189 2 жыл бұрын
I would love to see a video on the strength of hangers bolted into wood, we use ¹/²" lag bolts that are 3 ¹/²" long pre-drilled with ¹/⁴" drill bit and they always feel super solid and safe but no way to test
@davidwarren719
@davidwarren719 2 жыл бұрын
I would like to see this as well. I actually encounter bolts in trees/wooden structures all the time. I’ve also always been curious how a glue-in would perform if placed in a tree.
@tobiasbrewin4355
@tobiasbrewin4355 2 жыл бұрын
What model of rope is being used to to 'catch' the quick links after each break test?
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
8mm dynamic
@jackphilp7057
@jackphilp7057 2 жыл бұрын
I would love to see a video on locking carabiners AFTER they've been exposed to mud, dust, dirt, etc. I do a lot of spelunking in old mines and have to clean and oil all of my lockers after a trip or they will no longer function.
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 2 жыл бұрын
Send him your stuff, he'll break it no charge. Lol
@Teafoam
@Teafoam 2 жыл бұрын
I like the chain style better. Because 8 feel more involved like my beener is in every round. Until it wasn't 😛.
@Grethko
@Grethko 2 жыл бұрын
Real talk though: it would be great to have a review and a little info about different versions of carabiners. We aren't getting that here, it's great to have your informed opinions, but there are actual details you could be including for people interested/deciding what gear to get.
@hjeffcoat42
@hjeffcoat42 2 жыл бұрын
He's kinda done that if you go through the old climbing vids. Talking about shape, nose size, strength, all that stuff. He may not out right say, "here's what carabineer to buy." but he's gonna share what he likes and why in each scenario. More reason to go back and watch 'em all!
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
What details would you add?
@expierreiment
@expierreiment 2 жыл бұрын
This is funny and I like it. Not really scientific, but who cares. They are all super good enough
@tylerjbellows
@tylerjbellows 2 жыл бұрын
Surprising how many 'shortened' and bound up at the top of the nose. Recoil?
@dinyourmouth-rl9lk
@dinyourmouth-rl9lk Жыл бұрын
Don’t climb, but am totally here for the destruction
@LoveAndClimbing
@LoveAndClimbing 2 жыл бұрын
6:43 Ryan and Bobby showdown.
@MegaBCAD
@MegaBCAD 2 жыл бұрын
Would allso like to see how damage can weaken them maybe dropping some rocks on them
@stephanhuet2421
@stephanhuet2421 Жыл бұрын
don't know how many US reknown brands there are but I'ld love a USA v/s Europe league. Like a best of 10, or at least of 5.
@MikeDCWeld
@MikeDCWeld Жыл бұрын
I was hoping that the pair that were both rated the same would have broken simultaneously.
@himpcreations6715
@himpcreations6715 2 жыл бұрын
snap crackle pop, wake up call to the climbing world
@skjetnis
@skjetnis Жыл бұрын
Kinda wanna see cheap vs expensive carabiners etc. same rating i guess for it to be more fair
@JippaJ
@JippaJ 2 жыл бұрын
I missed Bobby
@derekatwood6236
@derekatwood6236 2 жыл бұрын
Sooo is he reaally tall or are you reaally short? 😂
@carterherrell5740
@carterherrell5740 2 жыл бұрын
Can you break test a hammock
@traininthebutt7215
@traininthebutt7215 2 жыл бұрын
I think it would be interesting to see you guys test copperheads, I find it strange there is very little information on the strength of copperheads.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
That would be fun to test, I don't see them for sale often though.
@traininthebutt7215
@traininthebutt7215 2 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 I, and many others, usually make our own. Generally with pieces from the hardware store.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Makes sense.
@slarpec6456
@slarpec6456 Жыл бұрын
Dudee, What happened to the guy with yellow jacket in the intro who jump of without rope and parachute?
@tomenright9
@tomenright9 2 жыл бұрын
This episode was so quiet! My volume was cranked but could still barely hear some stuff.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Check the youtube volume too, not just the phone or laptop. It's normal audio on my end
@dylanbistany6498
@dylanbistany6498 2 жыл бұрын
I found the video interesting, but this was not direct comparison due to strain hardening.
@johnboling
@johnboling 2 жыл бұрын
Haha Bobby dropping the pain with I still don't watch the channel.
@voltsoftruthBSbuster
@voltsoftruthBSbuster 2 жыл бұрын
Hey guys I have a question for you. I have not watched all of the videos you've ever put out, so maybe you already covered this specific topic and I just missed it. But I'm curious if you guys have ever tested Titanium carabiner and what are your thoughts on them in general. Typically they are really expensive and most are extremely small and made for recreational use and not for climbing. I however have few Titanium carabiner that (despite not being specifically designed for climbing) look sturdy and strong enough to APEAR to handle climbing task. I'm wondering if I send you some of these Titanium carabiners, would you mind testing them and posting the results. I don't want to ask you to purchase them to test them, since its a topic I'm curious about and perhaps no one else is, so it wouldn't be fair. But I'm willing to sacrifice up to $40 per carabiner to see the results. I'm curious to see if they actually are strong enough for climbing tasks, despite not being rated for it. And I can't stress that enough. I'm would not use them for climbing and would never recommend for anyone else to use them. This is strictly for curiosity reasons. Even if your tests demonstrate they are strong enough, I would still not recommend for anyone to use them in such a way, simply because of liability reasons. If they fail, you couldn't hold anyone accountable, cause they don't go the same quality control to make sure there are no flaws or micro fractures in the metal. But if you guys are open to the Idea of testing them, please respond back, and I'd be happy to ship you couple of my Titanium carabiners to be destroyed. Money wasted in the name of science. Ok ill wait for your response, thanks.
@IanGacek
@IanGacek 2 жыл бұрын
How does Bobby feel about the Grivel carabiner now? Haha
@bobbyhutton1989
@bobbyhutton1989 2 жыл бұрын
Opinion unchanged. Overbuilt doesn't mean good or useful. All the easier to use carabiners met the relevant standard which of course has a safety margin.
@andrewhunter6536
@andrewhunter6536 2 жыл бұрын
@@bobbyhutton1989 Have you played with clipping it much? I find it more usable than any triple action locker. All you need to do is open one gate then clip like a normal none locker. Also I think it’s safer than a screw gate when clipping in to the middle of the rope if you are the first of two seconds on a climb. Can’t come unscrewed from the movement of climbing or pressing yourself into an off width. Any thoughts on that?
@IanGacek
@IanGacek 2 жыл бұрын
@@bobbyhutton1989 Good insight, sorry just starting to get into climbing that's a super helpful tip. Overbuilt != good. Thank you!
@russellstetzer
@russellstetzer 2 жыл бұрын
I like this style. All in a line didn't really give us a chance to understand the differences.
@ermabeka97
@ermabeka97 2 жыл бұрын
I want to see what would happen between 2 maillons !!!!!!!!!!!! 40kn??
@satanaz
@satanaz 2 жыл бұрын
I see a trend on this video - Ryan's face is always framed at the center of the video and half of the other guys' forehead is cut 🤣
@phoenix21studios
@phoenix21studios 2 жыл бұрын
bruhhhhhhhhhhh I use 45 kn beans and they all screw lock
@merc8639
@merc8639 2 жыл бұрын
I prefer them all in a line. So all carabiners get the same amount of force till their end. In this "elimination till final pair" form there may be a weak group which gives one side an advantage.
@BrodyYYC
@BrodyYYC 2 жыл бұрын
"Check out our video on counterfeit products that we just recently made" I dunno about that phrasing :P
@jarodlojeck5150
@jarodlojeck5150 2 жыл бұрын
Bobby needs to project from the diaphragm...or get mic'd.
@BigSmartArmed
@BigSmartArmed 2 жыл бұрын
Is there a list of results or I am stuck skipping through all the talking?
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