Hey thanks man. I really appreciate the comment. I think passing on the information I have learned will help some new shooters see results a little faster and the goal is it will help the sport grow.

Ya a good 2.5 inches more makes a big difference

Hey thanks man! I actually almost passed on this one. But I got so many questions about it I did it anyway. Thanks for the feedback man. I appreciate it.

Thanks for watching Darrell. I figured it was time to shoot a video after getting asked the question so many times. Now I will just send the link instead of trying to explain it all through test. Hopefully it wasn't too boring of a video.

My pleasure man and thanks for the feedback. Let's me know I am on track.

Thanks man.

Thanks man

Ya I was happy with the sound on this one.

Thanks. Im glad you enjoyed it Tij

Thanks man.

Thanks for watching

Thanks Tim

Thanks

Lol it seems to work well. I just have to find a place to clip it where I don't bang into it all the time. Lol thanks for the tip.

Thanks!

That should make a big difference. That's why many shooters use microfiber pouches because they are lighter. The whole goal is to reduce the overall weight of the pouch.

I have an app designed for airguns. Hawke Chairgun. (It can also be used for catapults.) Anyway a JSB Exact pellet, 8.44 grains at 800ft/s has muzzle energy of 12ft/lbs, the same pellet at 400ft/s has muzzle energy of 3ft/lbs. So double the speed you get 4 times the energy.

Lol thanks man. I will

Just wondering if you have Merch, hat, shirt, hoodie?

Yes precise bands are great.

Well the .7 is heavy and feels heavy. Do you know how to check the elongation of the bands?

@@ATOMark Yes. My band length is 6 inches from 30" draw length.

@@northeastslingshot1664 you see I only ask because my draw is 30" too. We use inches up here in Canada but I learned all my measurements for bands in metric inch talk throws me off lol. Is 6" the total length of your bands? Before the pouch and fork attachment?

I like to mess with band length too. I like to try to get my draw weight down as far as I can while still shooting 265fps for target shooting. It really helps my accuracy with the light draw.

@@ATOMark i add a quarter inch for my last set for the clip. Thanks bub!!

From my past experience 0.55 is the best if you set it up right. its the perfect combination between speed and accuracy for an 8mm. Just my opinion

If you are just target shooting all of them will work fine. .5 I have reviewed before. It has a nice draw and lasts pretty well. I never tried .55 or 6. But the lighter draw the better for accuracy.

@@ATOMark appreciate the input Mark and Eman. Will probably try 0.55, just because I prefer yellow color over amber.

Really it's all about how you tune them.

Thanks man.

@@ATOMark I forget a lot that some of our viewers are fairly new to the sport

Ya me too. I had just been asked this question alot lately. So I figured it was video time.

Snipersling. It was made to attach to a belt. I just took the hook off and added a lanyard.

I have a few reviews with 6.5, 7, 8 with 9.5 and 11mm steel.

I order from the site.

Oh okay thank you

Omega slings, wasp, snipersling, cattyshack, simpleshot sometimes.

There are many people that are concerned about longevity. Personally if I get 200 shots I am happy. I basically did this video because because I had some comments that said they get 1000 shots with max speed. It's just not true. I will be releasing a video about that very topic soon. Min is right 100% the draw weight drops and so does the speed which can mess with accuracy. He is not the only one how does that. Gaspar Acron a top shooter from Spain changes them every 200 shots.

Do you reuse the pouches on a new set of bands?

@jimmynich4791 yes

@@jimmynich4791 I have pouches in daily use that are at least two or three years old. I use three hole pit pouches and some kangaroo. My pit pouches likely have at least 3,000 rounds each on them. They are soft enough to get a quality feel of the ball. When I introduce a new pouch I carry it around for days and during idle times twist and bend it several hundred times before shooting it. With the Roo I soak the pouch with a ball inside and bound up with thread. Let it soak until there are no more bubbles, then let it air dry. When the binding is removed I work the pouch in my fingers until it is soft. The pouch now has dimples like a broken in pouch develops only after weeks of use. I never shoot a ‘new’ pouch until it is at least manually broken in. Pouch release is 90% of the accuracy equation and having that “feel” minimizes ‘speed bumps’ and fork hits. Jerry in Alaska

I tend to change my bands around 200-300 shots because I tune my bands for performance. I reuse pouches all the time. The older they get, the better they get. I have tested it, and you do see a drop in speed as the bands get to that shot count. Gaspar Acron, a world-class shooter out of Spain, does the same thing

Really depends on what I am doing. If it is just target shooting I would use light bands like .45-.5 and cut them with a little extra fat on them so the draw is nice and light but I still get around 250-260 fps with light steel. For a hunting set up I would use .5 taper 22-12 maxed out to reach over 300fps with 8mm steel. 9.5 I would use snipersling yellow tapered 25-12 or 15 with 5mm extra to my active for a little added longevity but still in the 250+ zone and it will lighten up the draw a little for accuracy. Fastest speeds I have ever achieved with 9.5mm steel was snipersling black .7 24-12 taper

​​@@ATOMarkThe fastest I recorded was 410fps with 3/8 lead, approx 29ftlb. Double theraband gold 30-10 taper cut at 260mm, lasted about 20 shots then failed at the pouch. I shoot intuitively half butterfly, the bands stay warm since I have no sighting aim to hold. I have not experimented with the newer latex, though I have not shot in years. Just getting back into it.

Thanks man.