Next time take the time to clean them and remove all the grease ,as you mentioned you have hot pressure washer ,the result will be much better ,great video as usual 👍👍👍👍

watch out for blokes in grubby overalls in the household cleaning aisles now!

I have found good results from a couple of sessions with wire brushing between. So much better than molasses as I don't even need to remove paint or light grease/oil. Also works great for sharpening old files and rasps. Treated parts will have rust/oxide forming in minutes if left exposed once cleaned. Easiest and cheapest rust removal I have come across.

Brilliant as usual and thanks for the update. You are quite right, my 300 tdi just needs everything from the door handles downwards replacing, but as usual the chassis is mint. My axles are not too bad, probably a side effect of the amount of oil it throws out. However, I do have a series 3 and the axles on that are utterly Gipping, so I shall be looking forward to watching the vidlog you make on that one.

I used this process on a tow bar and all the fittings including bolts, nuts and washers and they came out mint. Cleaned them all up with diluted fairy liquid and a tooth brush but I found they cleaned up better if you don't let them dry between processes.

The series one chassis was done in a pit dug in the ground with a heavy duty tarp liner in it. Cleaned it up good after four days immersion. After chassis the springs. Axles and running gear were done. Made way nicer to work on. Working on clean metal just a much nicer way to go!

one of those herb dryers loaded in from the top with neg wires down a central core would work for loads of small parts.

Nice vid! FYI, I use rain water to eliminate the blackish oxide substance that remains on the part so you don't have to brush it off. Different shape of parts require different shape of cathode, that is why the spring holder did not come out so nice. Next, I have moved from electrolysis to vinegar. It takes much more time but the results are far more superior.

I believe the electrolysis process doesn't actually remove the rust, it just reverses the oxidization by sacrificing the anode. So the "anode" will oxidize by absorbing the oxygen that is freed up from the "cathode" (i.e. the rusty object). So I guess it's important to have as large a clean anode area as possible and also it probably is important that the rusty object is not covered with other material, such as dirt.I wonder whether the rust that accumulated on the anode actually stopped the electrolysis (rather than the absence of rust on the rusted objects or the saturation of the solution). So perhaps by scraping off the rust on the anode and then re-immersing the rusted objects back in the solution (perhaps a fresh solution) you would be able to continue the electrolysis.Of course, this process only works on the surface of the rusty object so if an object is corroded through it will lead to whole bits of the rust coming off i.e. you'll lose material from the corroded object - inevitable I guess due to the pressure created from the escaping gas. You might want to think about that in advance if you try to apply this method to some artefact of historical significance (land rover calipers probably do not qualify for this - yet!).

Nice job bro, I will also try that

Great as normal.

........it has to be the hydrogen produced at boundary of rust and virgin metal that reduces the layer of rust at that point and attached rust falls away , freshly generated nascent hydrogen which is hydrogen atom on it's own is more effective reducing agent,, in microseconds it becomes h2 after linking up with another atom of hydrogen. Its been noticed that when applying an oxy hydrogen flame to Rusty steel that the rust disappears also.

Pretty good for no effort really. Going to change all then oils and filters on my D1 today. Might even try and find out where the horrific bang comes from when letting the clutch up as well.

I think a quick go around with the wife's electric toothbrush and jobs a goodun

Thanks for the video. The type of metal for the electrodes is important right? what kind of metals did you use that I didn't understand correctly?

Cool little hands free experiment, gice you plenty more time to work on other things thannspend houra wire wheeling and scotch brite pad buffing

Nice work, will the cathode steam clean up or is it consumable? Are you going to try some plating next?

I've had success with this process too. You don't need a high concentration of Soda, a few spoonfulls, and it doesn't get used up, the same solution will last forever.