Great to hear! Always cool to learn something new and do it yourself. Have fun with your project! Mike

Cheers! Sometimes you just have to get creative. Mike

Yep…. Those bolts are one-time use and are Torque-to-Yield. He mace fun with your build.

Glad you found the series useful. Have fun with your build! Mike

I really appreciate the comment! Some really cool stuff! Thanks!!!!

Thank you Austin. I appreciate that you took the time to share with me your feedback. It was really a fun project and there are so many options out there for these engines. Have fun with your project. Mike

Sometimes it pays to be a little creative... Cheers!

Both of my boys had fun getting their hands dirty and learning how all of this stuff works. We spent many hours between activities talking about how it is all connected and how items are timed and work together. Cool project.

Agreed👍

This guy is the best.. and the music just gets you hooked

I'm trying to figure out of to make the protractor

I miss the corona virus

Sounds like a great project... Have a blast with it!!!!! Cheers... Mike!

I have TIME on my side. Because I am not in a hurry, I find myself spending too much time on it. Not trying to create a show vehicle, but I am very proud as to how it has turned out so far! Thank you!!!!!

Glad you found it useful! Your build is coming along nicely Dean!

Thank you... Glad you are finding the video series useful. Cheers! Mike

Thank you Anthony! Glad you enjoyed them.

These are the George Lucas series videos. Baahaahaa! Cheers to you in Montana!

Thank you!

Nice tip I was a little worried about doing it

Thank you Braidyn! Have fun with your projects!!! Mike

Good stuff.... ehhhh! It was a lot of fun!

Awesome…. Enjoy the process!!! Mike

Awesome! Thank for following along! Good luck with yours!!!!

Now that is what I call "Thinking outside the Box". Can you cay Free Tool! And I figured you might like the Beer comment!

Thank you Ron! I love projects that require new tools. But only when the tool is something you've been wanting for other projects. The Angle Gauge is not one of them!!!! That little tool cost me nothing. What household doesn't have a few old crappy CDs laying around! Cheers!

Thanks! Have fun with your build!!!

Have fun with your project! When I look back, I clearly stated (for my own benefit), that this was a relatively stock build with the exception of the CAM (and related items) swap. The machine shop that I used does build a lot of race engines and therefore offered some upgrades that I chose to take, but probably should not have. Money was not really an option, so I allowed for the upgrades. The 2 that I can think of are Piston Rods and Stainless Valves. This engine is going in a "Streetable" old CJ7 Jeep. I'm looking for badass sound and reliability. The original rods and valves would have accomplished that. Great question!!!!! Cheers and enjoy your build.... Mike

Sometime it pays to think outside the box! Cheers!

At the same time its not that hard to VERY accurately turn a wrench 50, 60 or 90 degrees just by eye lol but you guys have made awesome videos of the correct way to rebuild an LS. We all appreciate the time, effort, and teaching put into your videos!

Thank you Bob! I think it will make my ole Jeep a lot more reliable and allow us to take it on longer trips. I have owned it for 34 years and ran out of fingers on the number of times I had some issues. Not complaining.... it's all worth it. Love Jeep rides!!! Cheers to yo Bob! I always enjoy your comments! Mike

@@UCanDoIt2Mike Anytime Mike !.............The LS swaps are a big upgrade for the Jeeps and they add a ton of power and torque, which prompts you to upgrade the drive line accordingly (which you've done). I've researched the stock LS computer and wiring harness (which I have from the donor truck), but instead of modifying it and then having to program it, then maybe having to make changes to the fuel & timing, etc., I've decided to spend the money and go with the Holley Terminator setup. I can tune on the fly and set up econo/sport/performance modes, as well as see real time readouts on the control panel inside the vehicle. It's around a grand for the manual trans one, and comes with it's stand alone management harness........plug & play. I figured by the time I modified the harness and sent the computer out to have the software tailored, then maybe having to do it further, I was better off the other way. The Holley system isn't cheap, but it's way more user friendly.......the initial setup is "grade school" easy

Cary glad the you enjoyed the process. Thanks for following along. Mike.

That's really cool... Thanks for sharing!!!!

Dang!!!! Has it been 3 years?? What a fun project! Thanks for the compliment!!!

UCanDoIt2 LS swapping my 2 door Tahoe as we speak haha

Finally! Someone that understands. It is not always about "How fast can I get it done". We had a lot of fun

I just binge watched a bunch of your vids, great job.

Thank you Drew! We have had a great time with it so far! Another video coming out tonight or tomorrow.

Sometimes you can come up with some really good stuff when you think outside the box!!!! Cheers

Thank you Drew! Enjoy your White Christmas and please stay warm. It looks cold up there!

Thank you Cary! It worked as well as expected and super simple to create. Thanks for watching.

Highly recommended by my machinist! Can't wait to hear them sing!

Absolutely! Cheers.... Mike

Sometimes it pays to be creative!!!! I hate buying "Special Tool Number #@#&*^@#%". Cheers!

We are hoping this engine will sound similar. Cheers!!!!

Thank you for taking the time to leave your feedback! Cheers!

That is awesome! Just looked at Part 1 of your 72 Camaro teardown and have marked it. Plan to go through the other parts after this busy weekend. I subbed you back, cause things you will be going through are things that might apply this, Project Rowdy and a future The Mistress (68 Camaro) project. Thanks for the message and looking forward to sharing some information.

Thank you Sir!!! Cheers Mike

Gracias por el comentario. Feliz de que te haya ayudado a solucionar tu problema. Diviértete con todos tus proyectos. Miguel

Para calibrar los balancines solo tiene que poner el Pushkin rod hacia abajo???

Glad you like them!

Very cool! That is such a light car! We have a 2000 328i and the thought of a Gen3 in it makes me shiver. Thanks for sharing. There are so many options for these motors....

Logan Penland -Who asked u?

How does the Muncie do? Are you able to shift fast in that car? I have one in my truck and it is a dog to shift.

Cool stuff... Have fun with yours!

Glad you found it useful! Good luck with your project....

Can you recommend a book to help me put my motor back together not forgetting a ground of any sort and what bolts go where, Meaning reinstalling into car? I need to put my oil pan, front and rear cover back on and worried about the alignment procedure without having to buy alignment tools thanks.

I believe there are book about LS Swaps that may provide help with getting it back in the car. Check Amazon. I didn't buy any alignment tools. In Part 5 of this series, I show how I aligned my covers. Once tightened down they were perfect. Very Very simple.

UCanDoIt2 Thank you I was just watching that video and showing my wife as a matter of fact of how helpful that video is. I'm very greatful for you excellent tutorial as I'm sure many other are- Cheers

Thank you sir!

UCanDoIt2 I watched a lot of your vids before and during the reassembly of my 5.3. I unfortunately had the dumb DOD lifters stick in my 2007 so I deleted them and put some performance parts in. Thank you again, I really enjoy the videos.

I really appreciate you taking the time to leave me a message! It makes me feel good that sharing this information is being enjoyed by someone and excited that I am reaching Russia. What a wonderful platform to share with the world! Cheers to you my new Russian friend!

Now that's what I'm talking about! Cheers... Mike!

Now that's using your noggin!

That's certainly another way to go if you feel confident with it. You have the possibility to have under-tightened rockers where the Cam lobe was engaged in the Lifter. This would be the case unless you are running weak valve springs in which case you would be OK.

It's all stock springs....but just like any bolt that you torque, you retorque. Run the engine for 2 minutes and then go back and retorque. Gm precisely engineers there bolt length to tighten up all the way so that the lash of the lifter is basically a set point. The torque spec is just a set point as to how tight you should go without the bolt comming lose, or stripping the threads out.

Older engines you'd loosen up the rocker till it taps, then slowly tighten until it stops at zero lash. Then you'd do 3/4 of a turn to set the lash at operation. Try that on a newer ls engine and at 3/4 of turn the bolt bottoms out. They have it basically set to the point where there's no guess work. It's just tighten the bolt and go. Everything engineered perfect for ease

I agree with you that just a simple Torque setting or sequence is easier. I assume that once these Torque to Yield bolts start to stretch, that the measurable torque amount doesn't change much, so they have you torque to a minimal/measurable amount then apply the stretch! Cheers... Mike

Sounds great! I agree the object is to tighten on the base circle no matter how you do it. This is just one approach. Cheers!

UCanDoIt2. One question. Why did you guys do the additional 90 degrees double turns? You have a turbo setup application?? Or am I missing something here??

@@theozman38 So it is important to understand that starting with the Gen 3 engines, GM is using Torque-To-Yield bolts on the Heads. They should not be reused! And they require you to torque to minimum amount and then rotate a set amount in two separate passes.

UCanDoIt2. Ok. Thanks. I’m New to ls engines. I’ve seen other videos of doing the same thing but never understood why. Ok. Just learning. Lol. It’s not the turn of torque but the tension. When torque is applied, torque is lost due to friction from turning the bolt in the threads. Thus, applying the two amounts is reassuring good application of what you fastened. Hmm ok. Learning something new today. Thanks guys

Love this Comment!

Thank you. That makes sense since the valves would need to both be closed at that point. The key would be to know with the heads on, whether you are TDC of each piston and if that was the Compression stroke. Thanks for sharing!!! There appears to be a handful if good ways to accomplish this. Cheers!

Always more than one way of doing things. If you put both rockers on number one. rotate the motor while you hand tighten them. You will get to a point to where the cam is not longer lifting either rocker. that's the compression stoke. torque them, mover 90 degrees rotation and follow your firing order. Either way works though. Not being critical, just throwing it out there

GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD

You can't beat a free Torque Angle Gauge! I made it while watching TV. Just about to have the engine buttoned up, and then I am going to tackle the wiring harness. It need to be thinned out. Removing all unwanted wires like the ones for the Auto Trans. Thanks!

Thank you for the feedback. Glad you enjoyed it. Have fun with your projects!!!

Gracias!

I think you need to do a little more research. That was the process for older engines. (1) The Manufacturer Comp Cams, (2) The Manual that I was following, and (3) my Mechanic... specifically mention that you should not soak the lifters. If you soak them, then immediately install and rotate the engine, you can ruin your valves.

No particular reason. LIke your truck, this will be naturally aspirated and as I am putting it in an older Jeep CJ, I really am not looking for mega horsepower or high speed. Like your Truck Cam video, I also went with a 408-11 cam as it appears to match my intended driving style and requirements. Cheers... Mike!

@@UCanDoIt2Mike Good stuff. Going through videos on your channel, really good info! Stay safe out there!

I'm really not sure what caused the lifter binding. Every one of them reacted the same. It had to either be a slight buildup of carbon on the end or some build up in the sleeve that they ride in. All I know is that the new ones slid right in, so I know that the new pairings should work without issue. Cheers!

Hello Cruz... In the Description section under each video is a link to a PDF document that has a complete list of the parts I used for this build. Something that you can use as a reference and print out. Enjoy and have fun with your build!!!!!

Gregory Hiser hard to see the marks on the bolts through my non transparent sockets.

I f you are talking about me home made angle gauge... Google: Compass Protractor Image.

@@UCanDoIt2Mike I'll print one today.. thank you for your videos ..

Ouch! That doesn't sound fun. Hope you have better luck with your next run through! Cheers and good luck!

Hey brother! Got the driver's side reassembled using this method, but when I started the passenger side I stripped the intake rocker hole on cylinder 2. I believe I had everything in the right position but perhaps you can correct me if not. To start the passenger side I rotated the crank until the exhaust push rod on cylinder 2 started to lift and therefore the intake push rod was at its lowest possible position. When tightening I still seemed to be getting too much load on the push rod/valve spring and I think that's what caused it to strip. Either that or the quality of the heads I have been receiving is poor/inconsistent. Any advice you can give on the matter would be greatly appreciated :) cheers!

The only oddity on the Passenger side is when starting at cylinder 2, you are going to install Rocker position 2 then position 1. Intake is always on the Left. As far as it buggering up, wonder if 1) there was any contaminant in the threads or 2) if it was a head that had been rebuild before and slightly abused. As far as fixing it, I would find and talk to a machine shop and get a suggestion. I bet they could put a helicoil or insert in there to fix it. It will need to be a good repair as those threads will get some abuse when the engine is running.

Thanks for the quick response. I definitely accounted for the intake being on the left, that's the one I started on and stripped. Was I starting correctly with the intake push rod on cylinder 2 at its lowest position? Sorry for all the newby questions.

The process on the Passenger side is the same. (especially if you were to start with Cylinder 7). Rotate the crank until the Exhaust push rod just begins to lift. At this point you know that the Intake Lifter is sitting on the Cam's Base Circle (Lowest position) Then install the Intake Rocker arm.

I'm going to say No! TDC and tightening Rocker Arms have nothing to do with each other. The other problem with your suggestion is that you would be tightening some Rockers where the Cam Lobe is raised and that could throw off your Torque measurement. I followed a Guide that had me rotate the engine for each rocker to ensure that the Cam Lobes for that cylinder where not lifting and that they were on the base circle (no Lift).

UCanDoIt2 thank you for the fast response

Heck yea I'm going to see this! That is a very thoughtful question. It depends! You can deck the block to a point and still use the standard thickness gasket which will reduce the cylinderhead displacement increasing your compression ratio. You could also deck the block too much (to remove issues) and then use a thicker gasket to manage the displacement. Cheers... Mike!

Thank you Sir! The book that I used applies to all Gen3 and Gen4 GM engines. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD

I do not recall purchasing a dowel pin. If you are referring to the alignment pins between the block and the heads... I reused the original ones. The machine shop removed then to do their work and then I re-installed them. I'm sure you could Google LS head alignment pins (or something like that) if that is what you are referencing. Hope it helps.

I did not reuse the old Rocker Arms. The trundle bearings on the old ones would be considered a consumable item and would need to be replaced. I elected to purchase new original style Rocker Arms. My machinist obtained them for me through his supplier. Hope this helps!

It was either Milli Vanilli or Twisted Sister. Both haven't been used too much lately.

Sam I Am ))9

The Machine Shop did it for me. They ground the new values to custom seat then in the head, ground them to proper length and installed the new Springs, Seals and Keepers that came with the new CAM. All of this is covered in Part 3 of this series. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fp-Glsim2LW1ZY0.html

Another great question! I looked into it and fully understand the concept. While it is a good idea when installing a custom CAM, but it is my understanding that the main purpose is to (1) Ensure that the Grind is correct and (2) make sure that my new Timing Set (Gears and Chain) are configured correctly. There are many people that do it and many that don't. With great trust in Comp Cam and great success from my Machinist with this Timing Set, I did not feel the need to do it. Mistake???? Maybe! Are my assumptions incorrect.... Maybe. Your thoughts???

GM has changed to a Torque To Yield (TTY) approach on some of its fasteners. I believe the theory is... Torgue to a lower measurement can be done accurately, and then rotate to a set number of degrees. This possibly creates a more uniform clamping pressure on the surfaces. With this, the TTY bolts stretch to also help with uniform pressure. Because of this... the TTY Bolts are One-Time Use Only! Hope that helps... Mike!

@@UCanDoIt2Mike OH! I see. Never heard of that before. Thanks a lot for your input on this. If I may... I don't remember what bolts you used for the rebuild. Was it oem or upgraded bolts like ARP? If you used ARP instead of oem, would you use torque or TTY? Thanks again! Cheers!

@@Martin210670 I just used some GM replacement parts. If I was building a high HP boosted engine, I would probably consider the ARP option. Anywhere in between those build extremes, it would be up to the builder.

@@Martin210670 arp bolts are not tty they are tightened to a specific torque in 3 steps

@@CruisinComPTon Thanks for the info!

Agreed, I would have used ls9 head gaskets

We did not install new Value Guides. We did install new Value Seals that interestingly came with the Comp Cam Kit. Not sure about the ARP Head Bolts. I used a GM replacement (RockAuto - FEL-Pro ES72173)

Yea, my heads had the 3 different length bolts. You have to make sure you are getting the correct Bolt Kit!

Kendal Hall The 862 are the better of the stock 5.3 heads. The 706 have a problem of cracking around the inner head bolts.

I reused the original ones. They were all in good shape and the New Rockers that I installed did not change the ratio that would have caused the need to change the length of the push rods. Cheers!

That could get you into trouble on Torque To Yield (TTY) Bolts as during the last portion of the rotation they are stretching and the torque changes at a slower rate. But you are free to do you!

To be honest, I do not recall if he surfaced the heads. He did not while I was there. With the minimal amount that was removed from the block, I was able to use stock length pushrods. A standard thickness Head Gasket was used. Possibly increasing the compression due to the slightly smaller combustion chamber. I re-used the lifter trays. As far as Deep Sockets and Extensions when torqueing fasteners..... We could have a very long conversation on that topic that would not turn out very fun. Cheers.... Mike

@@UCanDoIt2Mike In this type of application, I wouldn't argue it very much. My background is for high pressure/temp equipment in corrosive environments...I love your process/details.

It is the standard FEL-Pro gasket for the LS line of engines. My Engine has not been installed in the new vehicle yet. I believe they have a good reputation.

I am going to anwser this from a logical perspective, not through experience or training. TTY is the new direction of GM, but in the end, the heads need to be secured to the block via an Evenly secured fastener. If ARP has a Head Bolt replacement and can proved a Torque (3 steps) that create the proper compression of the head to teh block.... I believe that would be just as good of a solution. TTY is just GM's new method of obtaining that compression. My Wooden Nickles worth. Cheers!

UCanDoIt2 thanks

That sounds like a good alternative.

I was told from 3 different sources not to soak the Lifters. (1) My mechanic mentioned it, (2) the Manual that I was following, and (3) the CompCams Documentation. I believe that installing them full of oil either caused some bent pushrods, or was giving false reading on Rocker installation. So it is now recommended not to soak them, but to coat the outer surface with oil like I did. Great Question!!!!!!! Thanks for watching.

If you pump them up the lifter pre load will be wrong.