Found your video while I was installing my balancer on my GTO and you saved my evening thank you.

Thanks for Ati assembly a day install videos. A video is worth thousand words. Both videos were clear, consise and extremely helpful 👌. Thank you very much

ATI states to use red Loctite on bolt and RTV on the washer sides. I don’t know how you can use ARP lube and RTV/?. Previously just used ARP lube on factory balancer.

Man your videos are golden, thank you so much for the details.

Just to clarify -- I'm reading the ATI Installation Instructions at their website and it says in step 1, " Save your old bolt for installation in the last step. (OEM bolts are a 1-time use only bolt - do not reuse as a primary bolt!" And then at the end; "1. Use your old bolt to install the damper and torque to 240 ft/lbs, then remove it. This is to seat the damper completely. 2. Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs. We recommend Blue or Red Loctite here if you are doing any high performance driving with this engine. 3. This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten. 4. Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs starting point and you are now tight." So, basically, after the OLD bolt is used to fully seat the damper at 240 ft/lbs, the new bolt is only torqued to 37 ft/lbs at three different points.

You know after the installation threaded rod, you could've just used the ARP bolt and torqued it down? Using the GM bolt to torque it to 240ftlbs and then using the ARP bolt to torque it to 235ft lbs is basically the same thing.

helpful video series. i'm doing all the same stuff on an 01 LS1.

Interesting, most of us will put on the new damper with the engine in the car!

The ati dampener has timing marks on it. If you were keying your balancer. It would probably be a good idea to set the engine to TDC 0 first right?? So that way the key is also a marker for TDC. In case you had to remove the balancer again.

Okay now how do you remove it?

i have a 6.0 LS and ive removed my oem dampner several times and reinstalled it using tools from ICT billet,im installing a super charger from torque storm and my engine is in the ride,im having hell seating it all the way to the crank so i can pin the crank with a drill,i use toe straps or crank straps to hold the balancer from turning but good lord this new ati balancer is super tight,im scared im going to break something,usually one tow strap works but its stretching it,so tomorrow im going to put two straps on it then tru using my old oem bolt my ICT billet tool is black steel but im not sure how much it can handle,guess i can look,any tips on keeping the balancer from turning while in the car ? anyone ?

Can you show us how you kept the crank from turning? I'm assuming there is a lockout tool, but, how did you do it?

I was waiting to see a measurement of the snout to see how to check that its pressed on far enough into factory specs. Guess we arent covering that

Great video! Thanks!

If the balancer comes with a keyway in the hub and the crankshaft does not why would you install it

That area He is pointing to at sec: 15 is the area we all should know area where the oil pressure thingy, if you look at Yamaha and most other YZF-type there is an oil clear meter to view on the left-hand side on most models, don't forget Honda Goldwing only one of that reverses only. Very funny that Pepto-Bismol has silicate which may yield silicone Puddy for harmonic balancer dampner. I'd rather use the silicone gel and usually most often as a mechanic blue lock tight. Just kidding but it allows for the elimination of parasitic drag. Did you forget to put the gel on there? Notice He states it is an LS, so you would have the LT1 which was an iron block, then LS1 is the aluminum block engines. Haynes Manuals have the torque-spec, but you must call with your manual to ask a tech live. Thanks Scruf for inviting me to comment. Nice dialing on the torque wrench. #McCuistonAutomotiveSciences #SiliconeForSeatingBalancersDampners

Can you use the Oem harmonic balance bolt for this application? Also is the stud you used & the washer & nut are those a special tool that you can buy somewhere ?

Did you pin it down?

Liking your page, lots of cool info. Just curios if you ended up pulling motor from top with a hoist and If so what needed to be done. I hear that it was designed to all drop out from below but I don't have lift a home and would like to remove from above if possible

How did the crank not move how did you fully seat the balancer you cut out everything thay was needed to know

The ARP crank bolt requires a 12 point socket. May I ask what size 12 point socket?

After you had the damper fully seated and before you put the arp bolt in. Did you happen to notice how the close to flush the bore of the damper finished in relationship to the face of the crank snout. I put mine on today and it fully seated about 4mm out from the face of crank snout, after removing and reinstalling twice, panic, phone calls and research I finally found where the tolerance of that relationship is 2.2mm-4.8mm per the factory LS service manual.So I'm just curious what you have, if you checked ?

Hey thanks for vid, I’m reading the ATI instructions that was included with their super damper, it says we gotta measure some things to get the correct, measurement from the tip of the snout to the washer surface when the damper is fully on the crank, I didn’t see you do this or mention it, is it required for proper installation ?

So you install the balancer with the tool, seated it with the old bolt at required torque and finally ARP? You don't be scared to reuse the old TTY bolt for this procedure?

Are they zero balance for the new LT1, LT4 motors?

Very good video. Where do I get that tool the threaded piece to put on the damper initially.?

Is the dampener supposed to be fully seated?

So maybe I missed it what is the significance of the new balancer !?

I dont have a notch on my timing cover seal, what is the point of putting rtb on the key notch of the balancer it self? Thanks

my 2005 vette lost power steering and charging.. So i shut car off and only thing i found is harmonic balancer bolt was finger loose.. But balancer visually seems to be still on all the way.... Forum member said ill need crank if it spun on it... But i feel crank is alot harder than balancer so i may luck out...( Hope so i just bought and financed the car 4 months ago) Getting ready to order balancer... So what your thought on if i may need to pin mine, and if so whats a good kit and how hard is it to do.

I have a stock corvette c6 automatic 2012 with a harmonic balancer needs to be changed, if i consider installing a supercharger in the future can i pin it now while I'm at it instead of gluing the keyway ?

My arp bolt has come out twice 15-20 min after driving. Do you know why this can happened if is installed correctly?

Where do you buy the balancer installation bolt?

The oem bolt is TTY. I know it’s not safe to use it for the final install. But Is it really all that safe to use it to get that balancer on? It could snap no?

Well damn, I just use an air hammer to run that crank pulley down

How come some pampers are thin like they don't have a pulley for ac

Are you supposed to use Red Loctite on the ARP bolt?

Hi, I´m from Sweden and I own a 99 Corvette with harmonic balancer problem. I have bought a ATI 917266 balancer. Is it better if I put all three pieces together myself and then let the garage do the another job. The ATI manual says that the different parts should be installed piece by piece. Sorry if the language is not correct, but I hope you understand my question.

Torque to yield bold are only used one time because they stretch so why would you risk the chance of using that old bolt to install the harmonic balancer, your taking a big chance of braking the bolt 🤦🏻‍♂️

How did you keeps the motor from turning over?

Cough drops!

Do you have any engine oil getting past that arp bolt? I'm assuming that your engine is in your car and running. I'm thinking about getting a new GM bolt for my install.

Did you let the rtv cure before Installation?

just use a hotplate and push in on by hand lol

Bs they have to be honed

What’s the benefit of this over stock ?

Put it in the oven first Jesus