The governments controled by companies and companies like this to turn over cars

You are so welcome!

Glad you liked it!

Yup. Most wear mechanisms tend to exhibit that runaway behaviour.

Many thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks!

Let me see wha I can do.

@@LubricationExplained ..many thanks for you

Thanks!

Wow, 4500km on synthetic ? Most likely a bit of overkill. But 6k km that's more reasonable. Anyway, most past 2000 engines are prone to oil burning. Our favorite is the 2.4L in CR-V, we change or re-ring them by dozens.

@@pliedtka Aren't the oil consumption problems with the Honda K series engines almost always caused by the rings sticking from poor maintenance and possibly poor driving habits? I've never seen a well maintained K series burn much oil regardless of mileage. I have a K24A2 in my 04 Civic and it never burned any meaningful amount of oil, but I only use top tier fuel and top of the line synthetic oil changed every 4-5K miles with plenty of long trips and full throttle runs up to redline.

@@averyalexander2303how many miles on the ol’ Civ if I may ask? Another question, do you mean every 4-5 kilometers or miles? K would indicate kilometers but I know people use it in place of miles as well. Thanks.

@@MrRedHotChiliMan I bought that K24 used for my swap, so I don't know how many miles are on it. But before I installed it, I tore it down to the bare block to thoroughly clean and inspect everything and replace all the gaskets and it was pretty clean and showed very little wear, There was some carbon in the ring grooves as always, but I don't remember anything excessive. As I said in my original comment, I change the oil and filter every 4-5K miles and only use top of the line oil. It's currently filled with Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30. I forgot to mention that I did add the OEM K20 oil cooler though, so that may also be preventing oil consumption by keeping the oil cool enough to not break down and burn off excessively. I have seen reports of fairly high oil temps on these engines under certain conditions, which may or may not be a factor in the oil consumption problems that some people are having. I also deleted the balance shafts while it was apart, which may or may not have any effect on oil consumption.

The fuel will cool the cylinder wall and also any unburned petrol will lubricate for the combustion stroke and during the intake stroke too.

Not easy. In refineries this would be the solvent dewaxing step and is reasonably complex, I believe the way it used to be done was waxy oil was mixed with naphtha and filter aid (fuller’s earth or diatomaceous earth). The mixture was chilled and filtered, and the filter aid assisted in building a wax cake on a filter cloth. You might be able to try something like that.

Definitely could, although the quantities may not be high enough for it to have a meaningfully positive effect.

This is likely a leaking valve stem seal overnight.

Yeah. there's a lot to it. I didn't even really talk much about the effect in reverse, where the crankcase oil ends up in the exhaust.

@@LubricationExplained Nah, but that's default, don't not really needed to mention.

What does PEA stand for?

@@martinlang9615 polyetheramine

This cleans the top of the pistons mainly. Might help but will take time.

The only thing that fixed your problem was driving at high rpm's. Nothing you add to the fuel will reach your oil control rings, for that you'd have to add something to the oil.

You should have made a video for that. It's a very good idea but it needs further explanation

Thanks!

After engine flush I'm having excessive blow by..any idea on what to do..

@@bijucarcare3811 Possibly start using non-synthetic oil .

@@bijucarcare3811 Or maybe AT-205 Re-Seal in case your seals are worn . As this swells them up to reduce oil leaking , etc

Hello, Have another mecanic diagnose your problem, need a compression test,a endoscopic camera to look at the cylinders walls and valves. You can have a differential pressure test done on each cylinders, it could reveal a leak towards your problem. Always ask for a second diagnose, there are severals ways to get to pinpoint the problem. Tigo.

Sounds like you may just need new spark plugs. I would start with that to see if it fixes the problem. Cheap, & you can easily do it yourself.

B12 berryman soak can work according to the internet.

@@TonicofSonic YMMV - 1.6 GDI Kia I followed a TSB for high oil consumption. berrymans is what I used. was using 2 quarts per 1000 miles, now no oil use at 1,100 miles. I did piston soak overnight, then again in am, then oil change, idle to warm. then added Liqi Moly engine flush 1dle 15 mins then final oil change. Had nothing to lose.

Yamalube Ring Free Plus.

Really, in most cases I have seen, the only solution was to pull the pistons out and re-ring them.

@@pliedtka true depending. The TSB came from NHTSB and if the TSB does not work then an engine is installed under warranty. This worked for the one time tried this. Out of warranty, So far about 4 000 miles before a quart is needed. The issue is the owner does not maintain well.

Good question. Unfortunately the answer is “it depends”. If the rings are stuck because of oxidised deposits, then a flush with a high solvency oil will help dissolve them. But if it’s more like dirt you would need something with high detergency. The problem is that high oil consumption could be for another reason as well, like bore polish, liner scuffing or valve seal wear.

@@LubricationExplained All true. I've also known people who had good luck with the Italian tune up for freeing up stuck rings. Running the engine hard reasonably regularly is at the very least good for helping to prevent stuck rings, more than one manufacturer released service bulletins on that. But obviously using good fuel along with a good quality oil of the proper viscosity and changing it at regular intervals is most important.

Try BG EPR at your next oil change, it helps clean the deposits around these rings helping to restore lost compression etc. It really works.

​@@Weareeverything2023This is true. This stuff made my f150 run smoother and have more power by increasing compression and reducing oil blowby with a single treatment.

Unless the rings are stuck, they are going to rotate as the engine runs and the gaps are going to end up wherever they want anyways. It would be ideal if the gaps would stay 180 degrees apart, but there is no practical way to accomplish this without causing other problems.

Yup. It probably won't be a lot, but it all counts!

So is that a good thing or a bad thing?