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There are luxury watches I just cannot buy. Patek Philippe's 5016, for example, is the apple of my eye and a watch I cannot buy. Price is the problem. After discovering the 5016 firsthand during the spring of 2017, I was confident that I'd found the ultimate watch. This Patek Philippe and other watches are featured tonight in an episode all about the watches I can't buy!
More than any Patek Philippe Nautilus or Rolex Daytona, the unassuming 36mm Patek 5016 is a watch I simply cannot afford. Produced in roughly 200 examples between 1993 and 2010, the Patek Philippe 5016
is no secret; one example in stainless steel briefly became the most expensive watch ever sold in 2015. Paying over seven million dollars for a 5016 isn't necessary, but paying close to $1 million definitely is. In either case, this is a watch I cannot afford.
Why is the 5016 such a desirable Patek Philippe watch? It's not just the rarity; this is a masterpiece. First, there's the minute repeater. A minute repeating Patek Philippe is like a V12 Ferrari - it cuts to the core of the brand's identity. Jean-Pierre Hagmann's famous Patek Philippe case with integral repeater slide is a fundamental part of the 5016's appeal. And the tonal quality of the repeater chimes is peerless.
Any perpetual calendar is special, but the Patek Philippe 5016 adds a retrograde date display for additional dynamism. There's a moonphase that requires only one correction every 122 years. And the calendar itself need not be reset until the year 2100. All leap years, odd months, and quirks of the Gregorian calendar are handled until the next century.
Tourbillon regulators are not considered "complications" by many watch collectors, but they certainly complicate a watch. The rotating tourbillon carriage of the 5016 makes a single circuit every minute, and it's driven by an extraordinary 14-karat gold third wheel. Each 5016 tourbillon has a free-sprung Gyromax architecture and an overcoil hairspring for more precise timekeeping. For good measure, and to prove its timekeeping accuracy, the caliber R TO 27 PS QR has been submitted to the COSC for chronometer certification. Sure, you can get that on a Mido, but few haute horlogerie brands subject their flagship watches to the rigors of the COSC test - many simply wouldn't pass! Patek Philippe had no such fears concerning the 5016.
To Tim Mosso, the Patek Philippe 5016 remains the ultimate watch - with the ultimate price. As a result, it's on his list of watches he'll never buy. See it and all the rest on tonight's show!
All of this plus live discussion and watch collector wrist shots appears tonight on "Watches Tonight!"
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