If they that far out of spec I'd return and get another brand

Slight is not abnormal. A couple tenths isn't bad, but .0007-.0008" is a mile.

Cleveland block won’t split….

Most brands are. Just not that many companies make cleveland rods.

I bush all the lifter bores.

Depends on which cam bearings you use.

@@lykinsmotorsports the depth isn't for the cam bearings per se, it's so the clearance between the bearing edge and the thrust plate acts an oil meter for the oil squirted from the port exiting between 3 and 4 O'clock at the chamfer.

Yes, I fully understand what it's for, but it also depends on how the cam bearing is made.

@@lykinsmotorsports could you elaborate on that please? I'm from Australia and have been playing around with Clevelands since I was 20 and am now 58 and haven't heard about different bearings needing to be installed at different depths because of the way they're made but am always willing to learn. What type/makeup of bearing are you using in this build? I've always set the depth depending on how large or small the chamfer is (and they vary a bit down here). On a block with a larger chamfer, I set the depth closer to the 0.005" end of the spec. On a block with a very small chamfer, I set the depth closer to the larger end of the 0.020" spec but would never go deeper because all that does is expose more of the oil port wasting pressure and flow in an area of the Cleveland that is already a bit more complicated than most as far as oil flow and control is concerned. From the video, it appears you've set the bearing back 0.040 or 0.050". Sorry for the long post but am just interested in some possible new knowledge. Maybe in your next video for this build you could include a short segment on your methodology for installing the front bearing for all of your followers. Regards.

Both sides.

No, it's not common.

@@lykinsmotorsportsfantastic education, thank you! Would you just send the rods back and tell them to do better? Seems unfair for you or the customer to pay to have to resize the rods…poor QC!!

@@lykinsmotorsports one more question Brent do you bush the passenger side lifter bores only when you run solid roller or both sides, I misunderstood sorry.

No sir, an aftermarket rod should not be out of round with no bearings in it. Back in the 60's, this may have worked with junk factory rods, but it's not how we do things today.

@@lykinsmotorsports maybe you don't but that's how we do it, and so do many top-flight builders. We adjust our bearing eccentricity by adding up to .004 more for various applications when we can't get enough eccentricity from the bearing manufacturer. I suggest you read some scholarly articles on bearing eccentricity and its relation to time, oil pressure, load, and rpm to understand how it affects the hydrodynamic oil wedge. Bearings are designed to be out of round and it varies from bearing to bearing within the set and across lines like P vs V vs H vs King vs FM vs ACL. A stock bearing in a .001 out-of-round rod will have zero effect on bearing life in a low rpm engine and if you are concerned just measure the shells for eccentricity and put the lowest one on that rod. it. In reality, a .001 out of round rod or crank journal in a low rpm street motor won't affect engine life in any way. It's not a 10000+-rpm Cup/Sprint engine. PS I don't send my rod to the machinist cause Im the machinist. since 1985. I just walk over to the Delta cap cutter, cut the caps, number the bolts to the rods so they go back in the exact same hole, measure the free length and record it, clean and lube em,, stretch the bolts record the torque required and hone them on the Sunnen power stroke.

Not necessary unless the rods are so flimsy that they will pinch the bearing. I have >1200 hp pulling truck engines turning over 9000 rpm with perfectly round rod bore housings. If that was the trick, then Oliver/Callies/Carrillo/Lentz/Pankl/etc. would send them out of round. Rod housings should be round. Bearing bores should be out of round. Have a good day.