Gavman's Workshop hey mate. What motor is the sx92 based off? Which husky? I need to put a better carby on mine. I can not get it to run right no matter what i do to the H and L screws, except for just prior to the tank emptying... which says its rich.... but lean it out and it runs worse again. Cant win !

I have heard they can leak between the case halves (joint). Pull it apart...chain and bar off etc. Clean it down then fill the oil reserviour with some fuel like kero. Put the lid back on and shake it. As it is thinner (less viscose) you will probably see if its leaking between the cases. If it is the cases would need splitting then wet and dry surfacing on a sheet of glass to get them true. Take some video and upload up there are some good people online that will help.

EvoJigger thanks for the positive addition to the video. The more we know the better the repairs. Cheers for the great information

If you ever need really cheap parts for one of these saws, as they are a carbon copy of a husqvarna 372, Huztl.net is the best place to get spares, some outer bits might be orange and not white, but they will fit and keep a saw working.

You can't beat getting a brand name. Clones are just that. Clones. I hope you didn't hurt your arm with the throwing.

I will go have a look at the saw over the next few days to be sure its slotted on one side or just plain both sides(after all it is a copy chainsaw). I see your point if its slotted on one face then that should point outwards to prevent wood dust building up between the sprocket and clutch then moving fowards to the chain and oil delivery. Great catch. So glad to have other wise people on here helping out.

@@lynpatnat :) I've been running chainsaws and cutting timber for over 40 years. Had that problem over 25years ago when I switched over from spur sprockets to rim sprockets.

@@aldredske6197 Thanks. It's those little details that are so easy to overlook. Thanks for pointing out out. You are helping a lot more people than just me with that tip.

Thanks Gavman. I had a look at your videos and got lot of info out of them. It looks like we are on the same page with these chainsaws. Interesting how they are Husqvarna clones. Yes... They are rich out the box and I agree its best to run them for a couple of hours like that letting them "4 stroke" at higher loads/revs. I also like to run them for a couple of cuts then let them cool down for a while as they bed in. The clutch spocket needle bearing needs oil right from the start. They must assemble these without lubing any parts.I also like to check that the oil is delivering before I put a chain on during my pre first start. I used mine to cut down a tree yesterday in our back yard that was more than the 24" bar length. It ran like a dream. I had to start it before climbing though as I was 6m up a ladder and it feels like a big beast when lugging it around. It would be nice to see them spend an extra $50 in the factory to make these perfect. Maybe over time they will see the benefits of a bit more quality in the minor details.Untill then we will keep doing the minor mods and share the info to help others. Cheers.

good tip

You could clean it all up then use a very thin oil with a bit of food colour in it. If you get lucky and use a torch you may be able to see where it is leaking from before it makes a mess everywhere. They could be right that it is the oil pump but it could just be excess clearance allowing oil past somewhere else. If your do find the problem let us know.

@@lynpatnat Thanks so much for your reply and help and good idea's,, Cheers

they are around 70 cc there stroke is shorter then a 372 i have talked to couple poeple and they checked bore and stroke and the 92cc is a 70 cc and the 82 is a 70 to and they will not ship to usa and they a guy on ebay is a scam but i being trying to buy 1 , and idk what its call but there is a black 92cc not a baumr its a 390 clone

If are getting kickback on your saw. Make sure you have Semi-chisel chain. Google see what that is. Keep the chain at correct tension. Make sure you cut right where the bar meets the engine. Never too cut. All these same things apply to any chainsaw. Look at some KZfaq clips about kickback.

Just re-read your question. I think you are asking how to replace the pull start cord. There are lots of clips on youtube for replacing cords they are all similar in design. I can do a specific clip if needed but I think you should be able to work it out without one. Generally speaking: Remove Side cover with pull cord and have a look. Do not dismantle it or remove the central screw. The cord can usaully be fitted on most saws without dismantling that spring. 1: Buy a good quality cord (ebay or similar) 2: work out using your old cord as a guide how much you need plus about 100mm more then trim it down later. 3: melt the ends on a flame so they are sealed and have no free stands. 4: Tie a knot in one end...very tight. pull it with pliers so its tight. 5: Thread that though the hole in the part that holds the cord (just like you can see the knot is ans the cord is. 6: look for a notch in the plastic cord reel. Turn it clockwise until it lines up so you can pull the cord through at at right angles to the reel (90 degrees). 7: Cut cord to the correct length using the old cord as a guide then seal the end again with flame. 8: Put the other end of the cord through the hole on the side cover where the cord goes and attache the handle. Now you need to put tension on the spring so it recoils. Look on youtube for how to tension pull cord on chainsaw, whipper snipper lawnmower etc. You will find one that shows you You hold the cord in the slot and wind clockwise (usually). When you get the the tension that feels right (its not as tight as it can go...just the amount it needs to retract well) you find the place that allows you to move the cord to its correct pull start place and then let the cord retract. If it is too tight or loose you can adjust it buy a turn or two. You may need a pointy hook to get the cord out for the adjustment but dont use a knife or anything that can damage the cord fibres. Cheers

Thank you kindly for your information. I have decompression problem with baumr ag sx62 chainsaw. Hard to start and it's keeps on breaking the code. New chainsaw comes with decompression button, but not in this model. I don't know how to fix it. Can you help please

@@progreen9370 If your model doesn't have the decompression button to pull out then I think you may not have a way to fix the problem. The only suggestion would be to use a good brand name of pull cord and then learn to only pull your arm back to your shoulder. If you pull the cord too hard or too far you will break the cord and the spring inside. I have seen that many times. It may be possible to fit a decompression valve but I think that would be difficult and probably not worth it. If you are gentle and dont try to rip the pull start out you should be able to start it. Try using good quality cord. The cord it comes with is very weak but so far I have not broken mine so it must be your technique or how you start it. Maybe got someone else to try to start it and see what they do differently to you.

Yes. Very true. I used Petmatex Ultra Black #82180.Maximum Oil Resistance. Gasket Maker. I googled to make sure it was the right one. There will be other brands suitable.

That's very true. A good brand saw is much better over time. These chainsaws copy the basics of the saw but will never be as good if you plan to keep them for many seasons. They are always let down by detail and fitment of parts. If you just need to cut a few trailer loads for the winter and then buy a better one next year the economics do stack up ok. I favour the 16" Chinese saws as price and reliability seem to fit just right. The larger saws have bars that are too thin and flex too much so as soon as the chain gets slightly blunt they will cut a curve. I then spend too much time keeping the chain perfect. So yep. I agree. Dig deep and buy the best when you can afford it.

I'm not sure how you could fix that. Adjust the spring length so they engage easier but you have to be careful not to changed them much. Take the clutch of and spray the surfaces with brake cleaner so there is no oil or write debris on the surface then gently Emery the surface of both the clutch surfaces and the metal clutch drum. Clean and extra friction may be enough. If they springs have lost tension from overheating then you would need be springs but that is unlikely. Comment on here of you find a solution so we all know. Cheers.

thanks guys , i think i found the problem , the oil is flooding inside the clutch drum and none going on the chain, now i gotta work out a fix

I'm not sure about the screw but the common reason chain brakes lock on is wood dust builds up between the brake band and the drum. Pull the bar off so your can see the band and see if you can move the brake back and forth to loosen the band. If you find a solution post it here so we can all learn from you.

@@lynpatnat thanks it’s brand new just out of the box and the brake is stuck, in discussions with eBay about a resolution but I suspect I’ll have to fix it myself

Give it a good pull backwards or bump the brake handle back towards the rear of the saw. Sometimes chain brakes can be tight. There will be a cam near the lower area that locks the handle forward. It's a detent to keep it in the locked or unlocked location. I've never encountered what you are describing so can't help.

@@lynpatnat I’ve just made a couple of videos visible on my profile if you have a few minutes to see

I just had a look. Try pulling on the start cord. That looks looks like the crankshaft is locked/ bound up or siezed in place. The brake handle looks like it is working right to me. If you can wriggle the band sideways when the handle is pulled back then the next thing you need to know if that the crankshaft rotates.

I haven't. I'm not sure if these run a reed valve on the intake if they do make sure it has not got wood dust under it. The other thing to check is all the hoses. A cracked hose would also cause mixture problems. I haven't had the problem myself but those would be the things to start with.

Thanks mate. Will check and go over, yeah runs sweet for a while then I'll get a loud pop or backfire. Then it will nearly stall, but will still cut, and rev. No problem. And another question I have is, I've had the pull cord break, fixed that but now I have no recoil on pull start? Any ideas? Thank you for you're response and fast reply Matt

@@matthewpaterson2499 the pull cord. Have a look for KZfaq clips on for to wind the pull cord so your have tension on the cord. There is a little notch in the plastic spool and you put the cord out through that then give it a couple of winds then drop it back down onto the spool. Its that it else you have not engaged the spring correctly. There are lots of clips on KZfaq that will show you the idea.

@lynpatnat. I've checked a few out thanks for the help, that little notch is were I have gone wrong thanks for the help. Appreciate it heaps mate thank you