That new Fluke was on capacitor measurement as diode measurement is the second mode for which you have to press the yellow button!🤣👏🏻Great video nonetheless!👏🏻

Ron, thank you! I admit missing that connector makes me a noob to fixing these games, but hey that's why we have guys like Ron and Joe that DO know what they are doing, thank you guys again you rock!

That white oxidation on the new lead-free solder joints is because it had an active flux in it, that has to be completely cleaned off because it's corrosive. If they used no-clean flux it wouln't have corroded. And it-s not a problem with lead-free solder, but with the type of flux. Even leaded solder will corrode with active flux, but it is more common with lead-free solder.

Ron, I don't care what anybody else says, I watch, like, subscribe, and share your videos because of your knowledge, experience, and the quality of your repairs; as well as the quality of your videos. I've been an "amateur" electronics engineer since my high school days back in the 80s. I made the "Heath Kits" do things they weren't supposed to do. Just because someone doesn't know the technical terms, or why it was "engineered" a certain way, doesn't mean that they don't understand why or why not it doesn't work. Your knowledge, experience, and expertise is far beyond what you or others may say. Electronics/electricity makes sense to me, and it seems to make sense to you too. It's LOGICAL! So are you! I love watching you diag electronics. You are a very talented individual. PLEASE keep making these videos. You always seem to arrive at the correct conclusion. I would be interested to see if there was something that you couldn't diagnose. We're all learning. Nobody, but an idiot, knows everything. The day I quit learning is the day I'm dead! LONG LIVE RON!

It's pretty much the simplest thing that causes the most problems! Good vid!!

The customer is gonna be a very happy with his machines. They both rock now. …. a nice long video on this one too.

Great job fixing this one. I must say that even though I've never been too interested in pinball (the Jurassic Park table is the only one I've ever played), these videos are very engrossing and it makes me very impressed not only by the remarkable engineering skill it takes to design these machines, but also by the smarts and experience you must have to be able to fix them. Awesome work!

Nice meter! You need to press the yellow button to change modes of the selector switch. Capacitor measurement, Diode mode is in yellow. If you had it on mVAC, the yellow button would change mode to mVDC, Ohms to Beep, etc.... Thanks for another great video Ron!

Yeah you're so entertaining don't let it bother you most of us enjoy watching you repair pinball machines and other video games and clocks and radios and record players

Something about circuitry and electrical engineering always tends to brings out the know-it-alls. Lol

One of the things I loved about Williams pinball of that era is the little green arrows telling what to do next! Live those machines!

When the glass breaks it rips a hole in the spacetime continuum that some of the pieces go into. Then the bits randomly re-appear back in our universe which is why you cannot find them all and they show up later. 😅 This is vaguely related to how socks disappear from the dryer and come back as coat hangers. 🤥 Another good repair of another really nice game! Thanks for letting us hang out in your shop! 😃

I’m a snooty EM purist, but you make fixing electronics look very doable. Great video.

I have a Road Kings with a power supply (Data East) that has a burned out connection. Great video for learning more about my machine. Thank you.

nice job , those connectors should be color coded

Another great game! Thanks for filming it for us!

This game looks awesome. Great job on demonstrating your knowledge of repair and these systems.

Your videos always brightens my day. Thank you!

Ron you are so good at fixing arcade equipment ... you do it with one hand tied behind your back. (Well holding your camera).

Absolutely a fascinating video. Ron, you have great troubleshooting skills as well as the patience to see “the fix” through to the end. Great instructional videos! I am working my way through your entire fascinating oeuvre. Thank you for taking the time to make each one. Kudos!

Another great watch! Regarding the lead-free solder, the other commenter is right about the issue not being the lead-free aspect, but the fact that they used solder with corrosive flux in it and didn't clean it up afterwards. This can be avoided with lead-free solder that has no clean flux in it. I'm not an expert in solder chemistry, but from what I know, mixing leaded and lead-free solder is likely to lead to cracks down the line, so if working with modern electronics, it's best to use lead-free solder. I have a double spool with leaded and lead-free on it for this reason. I don't like to have a combination of leaded and lead-free on the same board, especially if someone else might need to work on it after me. If you're looking for a great lead-free solder, I'd recommend AIM Glow Core. You can get SN100C or SAC305. These are standard compounds, so you can read about them on your own. I prefer SN100C, but it does require a little bit more heat than SAC305, so you'll want a good iron and a good tip geometry for whatever work you're doing. Most people that complain about lead-free solder are usually trying to use equipment that just isn't up to the task. I've never had a problem with proper gear (I used to work for a high-end boutique ribbon microphone company that makes all of their products by hand, so I was soldering with SN100C 5 days a week). Metcal irons are my irons of choice, but there are plenty of great options out there as I'm sure you know. Funny enough, I've actually found an example where replacing what I assume was leaded solder with lead-free made something more reliable: Sylvania DE3175 festoon bulbs (common in dome lights in cars). I've had several of them develop cold solder between the endcaps and the contacts that go to the actual bulb. Once I figured out what was going on, I desoldered the bulbs, resoldered them with SN100C (have to be quick about it or the glue that attaches the endcaps gives up), and those bulbs never had a problem with premature failure again. Keep up the great videos! I've never worked on a pinball machine before, but the I watch, the more I want to!

Yeah that's a good one. Lucky-lucky that didn't connect the two worst things together! Never trust that internal connectors are properly keyed! I've done it myself too! But that was because they put the red stripe on a 14 pin ribbon cable... not on pin1 but ON PIN 14!! That cable had power and data to a small character LCD display; and I actually burned my finger on the driver IC when I touched it. So I plugged it back in the wrong way and everything was fine. Must be made of good stuff! Also, these pinball motherboards are very interesting looking.

I'm not sure if your camera can accept it or not but a polarized filter can help with the glare on the glass when you are shooting your test play video.

Man forget other people we pinheads love your videos. Keep up the good work.

AWESOME game great job RON

Rectifier diodes like those often dead short with no visible sign of failure. Very few 5V components could take a high current hit like that and not totally fry, so I would have assumed a connector issue or a wire shorted to ground. Just a side note, I used to take the ground lead of the DMM and tuck it under the ground braid to free up one hand (you only need to probe with the + lead)

Yellow shift button on the meter will select the other options for each dial setting. Default where you had it set is capacitors, press yellow to get buzz.

The best thing I saw in the older GE and Maxon two-way radios for vehicles was to put in Diodes between the hot and ground right inside the case. They had a fuse in line and another one inside the case. If you accidentally hooked up the power and ground backwards the In-line fuse would blow instantly. Sometimes a person would bypass the fuse and it would blow the fuse inside the case. Back in the 90s I picked up a bunch of VHF single channel and 2 channel crystal radios that people had hooked up backwards. And they bypassed the fuse in-line and it would blow the fuse on the board. In a few cases I found the Diodes were cracked because of the dead short backwards wiring. I was able to easily replace the Diodes and fuses and special ordered the fuses from a company in NJ. Krystal's are very unique and every different radio had a different frequency that it ran at so you needed to have a crystal that was specifically made for the radio that you were going to use it in in order to get the correct frequency Thinking back to the way it was in the 70s, everything was crystals The 80s were just starting to get solid state digital I remember seeing the first Rhelm VHF radio that was 16 channel solid state that you could program it on your frequency and no crystals were needed Seeing the 30 dollar full band Chinese radios, 18 mhz to 1.3 ghz, AM and FM, it is a fantasy of people who were alive in the 70s I keep begging the same factories to design a digital DMR phase 2 scanner The ham radio companies sold a trip band radio for 600 dollars and then 8 years ago China can on the scene and it was the end for all these companies that were making a 10 dollar Radio and getting 590 dollars in pure greed If they start making a scanner the Uniden that costs 900 dollars would be replaced by a 90 dollar Chinese scanner I keep hoping It can be done by using 2 RTL SDR sticks and a computer but I want a real scanner that is handheld to replace the Uniden

Whatever the cost of this repair was worth every penny, this is the type of repair that can get costly for armatures just throwing parts at it. Sometimes you just need to take it to the shop and let the pros do the repair before you replace half the machine trying to find the problem.

nice job. i own the same machine, i will add fuses to my bridges. thank you.

Great video! Like your troubleshooting methodology!!!

Your video's are very entertaining and Road Kings is my all time favorite pinball machine, I finally own one again! But, the ball should be stopped above the lanes at the top of the playfield, not go right through there to the left side of the playfield. Only when you have multiball and time lock, so you can make the all round shot for mega score and or extra ball. And is has lane change hehe.

nice repair..excellent job!

Great video!

I love watching and learning from these pinball videos 😍

OOoh love my Road Kings! Classic simple early Sys 11 machine! Was my entry level drug for pins. Of course that followed by the Banzai then the F14 (Your fault - I even created an "It's broke" list for that project!) and now added an absolutely mint High Speed. All your fault I'm telling you...... ;)) PS Xpin make a grey clear sheet to put over the displays which covers the "white segments" so that you can't see them at all.

Kind of lucky that it looks like the 5V on that plug was going straight to speaker ground, so it didn't have a chance to cook any components on the board. They didn't spend a few pennies to key the connector, but could have saved a few pennies by using a 3 pin plug instead of a 4.

Awesome thanks

There are many LED Displays for Pinballs now including XPin, Pinscore, PinLED, Rottendog, and others.

I thought the capacitor looked bad before you started..... I don't think you cooked it.... You are a good diagnosticator!

I repaired a Funhouse years ago. Every PCB was blown. I got the boards running in a shop tester game and when the techs brought the boards back to the customer's game, they raised the back box and pinched wires fried it all over again

Hi Ron, Nice video. I see this machine had also left the store before I had a chance to play it. Really enjoyed visiting with you last week and looking forward to the upcoming videos you talked about.

This machine took a lot of my money at the bowling alley. I can't afford to sip that expensive $#!t so ya, we played at the bowling alley arcade a lot. We always had the bartender turn up the volume for us to hear the biker gangs tauntings. I assume he hated listening to it all of the time, so he probably turned it down as soon as we left. This game is really fun. One of my favorites. Thanks again!

Why does the flipper coils have a separate flipper power supply board?

I repaired this machine for a friend.The black plastic ramp was warped from heat and the clear detour left or right ramp was damaged,so he made them out of stainless wire form.Looks the part now.

Ronnie, I feel like you need to apologize to the sound board for accusing it of trying to murder the power supply.

Use 2nd Fuction... Yellow is Diode, Default white is Capacitence.

Looks like a fun pinball game, would love to play it one day.

Great video Ronnie, I would be nice from the factory if they would label the wires so would know which spot it goes into. Looks great fun and fast. See you on the next video.

What kills me is when the younger generation talk very highly of the Digital Pinball setups😂. I have played them as well, but nothing will EVER beat a older pinball machine. Sure more to maintain and keep going, but we'll worth it in the long run.

I always use a marker and draw some lines, so i don't mix them up.

It's not really relevant to this video but I just got back from playing a cool old Seawitch machine by Stern from 1980. It was fairly simple but it was fun and played fast.

How great is this back to back repair videos of games that I own and love! Space invaders and road kings. Look forward to every new repair video. Thanks Ron for filming them.

Its like a detective story, tracking down the short

Looking at the schematics, I see why it blew things. The audio plug is made for carrying extra speaker current. Each side of the speaker uses 2 pins. There are 2 pairs of wires connected together. So if the power is on the end of the power plug and you plug it into the speaker socket, that current will never reach the circuit because the plug itself is shorting it. So you don't even get 5V upstream to the audio amp. There are power dividers upstream, so that might have at least partially mitigated the harm, but the current never got that far. I don't quite get why the capacitor vented itself since a short circuit should mean the capacitor cannot charge. Capacitors would blow from overvoltage or being powered in reverse.

one of those lightbulbs are brighter than the others. You should get one of these 10,000 dollar nasa light meters and check each one . only takes like 15 minutes each bulb to run the diagnostics :)

I killed the clock board on my Twilight Zone by accidentally plugging the connector in shifted one pin over, it didn't have a key in it either. It sure has a key plug in it now!

ron, i see an aztec close by, did you do a video on that one?

If you cannot remove things and you have a short, a sensitive meter would help. Like on an Apple clone computer that had a flaw from the factory. That was a shorted trace. The traces were too close already and then the aging/bending of the board drew the traces closer. So, what can be done is to use a sensitive meter and catch the trace at different places and measure. So if it is more shorted over here than over there, then you know that this end of the board is closer to the actual shorted trace.

Hi, I purchased a working restored blackout and several months later it stopped working. I replaced the MPU, driver board and power board. It worked for a few minutes and stopped working again. On the Pin-pcb board all lights are on except one LED that says blanking. Is there a short im looking for or is it an issue with one of the boards I bought?

Ah. The borrowers swapped the cables. Obvious! It would be nice if they colour coded the connections. I think I've seen that before... maybe in fruit machines?

Hey Ron!!

What about relocating the battery?

It took me a minute, but this music reminds me of music from Road Rash, and oddly enough, they are both motorcycle games

Its magical smoke.

I did love the vid heck the nay sayers

Great job Ron! Thanks for doing what you do.

Are you a bad enough fuse to save the circuit? I have a potential distant memory of once playing this game.

This one is going to be a brain stormer

That looks like a high temp capacitor. I am thinking a 5 volt regulator is blown

Thank you for yet another great video! I'm learning a lot and fixing my first pinball (a beautiful JP1993 like the on you fixed earlier and that was singing at the beginning of the video). May I ask a silly question and ask you to show how to remove and reinstall boards, especially those in the top-left corner of the backbox? They're super hard to reach! I know that it's as easy as "unplug, unscrew, remove" but I think I'm missing something silly on how I should phisically approach the backbox on those hard-to-reach places. Or maybe I'm just too short I guess.

How do you remove the humming sound on the audio ?

Fuses are like people hugh!

8:43. BATTERIES !!!!!!!!!!!!!

1:50, Wavy mylar/paint. In the body shop world, we see a wavy body panel or paint job, we call it a "Friendly panel" or a "Friendly paint job". "Hey, its a friendly paint job". We'd wave back at it as it drives by.

Couldn’t wait to click on this. Saw this one in the wild but never put any quarters in it sadly.

The shiny parts are too shiny... can you hold a sunglass in front of the lens... =P Great video, very helpful for all of us who suffer from where does this dohickey-go-itis... Nobody is immune to random acts of whoopsies...

LOL the whining complaint voice!!!!! LOL

With the new meter, the diode check setting is also capacitor check, and the primary function was capacitor check (it did show nF on the display). If I recall you press the yellow button to get the second function, but it's been a while since I used a Fluke.

Ron has the power!

Don't some of the pinball machines have a magnet to shorten the games?

WOW, I think you answered my question about my Tales From the Crypt machines display not working, which I couldn't get a straight answer out of anyone so far yet, until watching this vid now! I'm now certain that battery corrosion is what screwed up the traces or chips that run the DMD... I suspected this, but couldn't get a reply from anyone really, as to which area of the board would cause this sort of thing. I really didn't want to, but I guess I'll have to take that whole board out and clean it up, and see what happens from there. It was cutting in and out when the problem started, then it just completely crapped out the one day and never worked again... Anyway, thanks for the vids man, they are AWESOME!!!

Why don’t they mount the batteries off the board?

"Wine drinkers". 🤣

Well you know, if you adjusted the right doohikkey, then the left whosiwhatsit would be fine XD

That surface looks like maybe someone did an epoxy pour on it?

Yodelayheehoo

Get yourself a pair of multimeter probe to alligator clip converters if you can. Will make your life easier, especially with camera in hand.

Try your best to ignore these cry kids do what you do best, know how and what works

One of these days Joe is going to surprise you Ron...He's going to leave a 10 page ultra detailed list of "issues"...and it won't be "It's Broke". One day...one day he will.

Back in the 80's, I was an audiophile, and built car systems that were 3000 watts of pure thump! My last car system had a speaker box that was isobaric and filled the entire back seat. It had 4-18" dual wound low impedance subwoofers cranking around 127db. This thing had way to much to list here, but I will say that it would flex the windows on the car and roll down the windows. No I am not black LOL!

KZfaq Comments rule #1: Bitch and complain about everything even though they would likely screw it up royally. Rule 2: Tell the KZfaqr that you are incompetent and that he/she is better in every way even though they would foul up a 1 car parade. Rule 3: Just shout insults at you right before their shift at McDonalds if they even work at all.

So it looks like someone overdid it with the clear coat on the playfield. I know you don't want to show how you apply it to your machines, because you think it is so simple it needs no explanation. Then you are also sick of all the negative comments from those that would say "I wouldn't have done it that way!" But this is what I am terrified of doing -- applying the clear-coat wrong or too heavily so that it ruins the machine. Please ignore the naysayers and show us at least once in a future repair how YOU apply clear-coat to an area of the playfield. Pretty please! I come here to learn how YOU do things, not some random on the internet criticizing everything.

To survive on KZfaq you gotta let some of the wackadoodle background noise just roll off of you. There is no way to please everyone. Just stay true to your core style and audience.

Die Duracell Batterien sind der größte Sch...s!

You lied, it wasn't fried

Jesus... buy a tripod 😮

Aztec should not have all those 455 bulbs in the title though.