I'm having this exact issue. 1943 Quality Hardware, USGI everything, all either original or arsenal rebuild. My Carbine was one of the Royal Tiger ones. It spend the last 70 years in a goat bar in Ethiopia, and it showed. The metal outside the wood was dirty and a little corroded, but under the wood it was pristine, and a little polish fixed the rest right up. First time I shot it, it went through 50 rounds, with 15 light strikes. I replaced the hammer and recoil springs first, knowing that 80 year old springs wouldn't be as good as new ones. Even opted for higher power ones from Wolff. This brought the issue down significantly - from 15/50 to about 2/50. But the issue was still there. I then pulled the bolt out, cleaned all the channels thoroughly, re-oiled it all, and tried again. About 4/50. So I disassembled the bolt, cleaned every part of it incredibly thoroughly, polished surfaces. About 4/50. So I replaced the firing pin. About 8/50 - a significantly worse situation! But after a little while it went back to 4/50. But that issue was still there. I checked headspace, since that can potentially cause light strikes as well. It passed all 3 gauges with flying colors. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS IF YOU HAVE THIS ISSUE! I am now waiting on a friend with a dremel to finish up work on my bolt. I will report back after testing this fix to see if it's worked. UPDATE: I've put about 600 rounds through it since applying this fix. Went from light strikes AT LEAST one every fifty, often more frequently, to none out of 600. I've had no out of battery detonations either. Had a couple of different issues since then, but they're mag problems. This fix confirmed to work on USGI carbines.

Was having similar issue with my Plainfield M1 Carbine, rounded out that sharp surface by the firing pin channel and it has been flawless since.

As a genuine carbine owner and builder, great video for these AO rifles. I own 2 and switched both out with USGI WWII flat bolts, hammers and sears and only use USGI magazines. These rifles then run flawlessly.

Definitely fixes the light primer strike issue. Now if I could just get past the FTE issue.

Excellent trouble shooting. I'm impressed.

Nice "gun talk". Found this very interesting. I feel lucky that I've never had a problem with my M1 Carbine though I've only used Sellier & Bellot ammo. Glad you were able to correct your malfunctions though it sucks that you have to buy a gun and then fix it.

Thanks I will look into this it seems the same. My other issue is it will eject the round fired but the next round won’t ramp up into the chamber and the bolt comes back forward into the side of the brass and jams.

Great! I had the same problem 👍🏻. I started immediately pushing with my finger the fire pin until it was all in from front to back and then held it with tape at the end to see how much material I had to grind..it was more than a few millimeters like 4-5 in my case until it each side was flush with the fire pin and keeping the same angle…Put some new primers in empty cases and bom,bom, bom, all pointing downwards. It worked like a charm!!! Thanks a million 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.

WARNING - If you are experiencing this issue, DO CHECK YOUR HEADSPACE FIRST! The design of the rear of the bolt is a type of fire safety; it prevents an out-of-battery fire situation. This fix can effectively disable that safety PERMANENTLY. If you apply this fix, and you have a headspace issue, YOU ARE POTENTIALLY MAKING YOUR CARBINE UNSAFE TO FIRE. ONLY APPLY THIS FIX IF YOUR CARBINE PASSES ALL HEADSPACE GAUGE TESTS!

I had the same problem. Point the barrel skyward then lower and it would shoot. Point at the dirt and raise to level - no shoot. 1944 Winchester with a Saginaw barrel mix master. I pulled the bolt and found a burr on both inside slots where the firing pin sits. I found the notch on the hammer did not fit into the slot on the back of the bolt (where it should) NOT allowing the hammer to hit the firing pin. Remember the free floating firing pin sits proud when pointed skyward and inside the slot when pointed earthward. I filed (jewelers file) the burr off both inside sides of the slot then back to the range. Still not enough. Filed some more and 100% solid primer hits.

Thank you! I really appreciate your excellent video. I did have a failure to fire early on with the rifle and haven't experienced it since. Next time at the range, I'll try tipping it forward between shots to see if I can induce a failure. In the meantime, I'll polish (not grind) the contact surfaces on the hammer and the bolt. The casting on these rifles is a little rough and some polishing might give more consistent lock up. I might be able to help with rifles experiencing failure to feed. My new Auto Ordnance Carbine went back to the factory for failure to feed, even though I was exclusively using GI and KCI magazines. I was told by the factory that the KCI mags lock up too low in the receiver causing feeding problems. They test fired the rifle with Hornady ammo and new Auto Ordnance mags and experienced no feeding issues. When the rifle returned, I was skeptical, but the factory was correct. GI and GI spec mags cause jams and the new Auto Ordnance mags did not. The GI spec mags lock up so low that the rounds cannot properly feed into the chamber. No matter what is implied online, my Auto Ordnance rifle, bought new in 2019, is absolutely NOT compatible with GI or KCI magazines. Likewise, I can't see Auto Ordnance M1 mags working in an original G1 rifle, as they are different.

I sent mine back, about two weeks and they sent it back. Works good now. Good video though thanks

Hey partner, I also have a Auto ordnance M1 the first thing I did was to change out all springs to GI springs and I have never had any issues. Thanks for the Vid and good luck with the riffle.

Nice M1 carbine from WW2, if the barrel be cut upto 6 inches to be shortened, may it possible to affect its reloading capability? Tnx for the answer

Thank you. I was having the exact same problem of alternating light primer strikes. Almost anything can be fixed.

Does this apply for M1 Grands also? I have this exact issue with mine.

Can this solution be used on Springfield M1A rifles? My M1A has been having the exact same issue you mention. Finally got it taken apart, including the bolt, and made sure no burs or metal shavings were interfering with the firing pin. Put it all back together, tried firing three rounds. *click* *click* *click* Nothing.

Had the same issue with my Springfield m1a.

I just ordered an Auto Ord..m1...and ive seen 3 similar videos of the same problem and fix. What nobody said in their videos is...is this defeating any safety in it? It wont bump fire or go off? Also wonder if it would fix itself after cycling it a few hundred times or firing it 50-100 times....cost of ammo being a detriment.

My carbine will close with the go headspace gauge But not with a round in it WHY!

Buckeye: you didn’t show clearly exactly where on the rear of bolt you dremeled it… was it on the inside diameter or on outside edge diameter? Was it only at one specific point: such as 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock points? Pls. Advise. Thanks,

You are describing a headspace problem.

The earlier reproduction M1 Carbine you had "back in the day". Who was the manufacturer, if you don't mind me asking

Great video. Auto Ordnance is junk.

Did the bolt get stuck forward also, I literally had to bang the bolt to eject the unfired round

I don’t agree with all your procedures simply because of the imprecise method you’re using. I have a Rifle Factory Certification in repair of M1 pattern rifle and this exposed me to the technical issues unique to this design. The receiver bridge when what is known as 1/2 Battery Bolt position. Gauging that position determines “end of service life” and proper firing pin retraction for the M1 pattern rifles. There is a fine interplay between striker/receiver bridge/bolt lug locking headspace position on these rifles. Some Investment Cast Receiver could be prone to more manufacturing challenges. That’s not to say this is the case in your Auto Ordinance. Problems like failure to fully lock and headspace related problems can occur with a Forged Receiver and are always a challenge. Eliminating the Firing Pin/Receiver Bridge timing issues consider this. The Operating Rod “pulls” the Bolt forward and the Lug/Bolt establishes Head Space as it rotates and locks in battery. I would look at simple remedies such as Greasing the Bolt Roller/Receiver Lugway to aid the rifle to fully lock in battery. Next I would deal with Hammer Inertia/Hammer Spring as a separate issue as Firing Pin Protrusion. Simply because you did not have the proper Factory Gauging/Specs and critical dimensionally checks. Remember, the M1 Carbine uses the same theory and design as the M14 in the Receiver. The same holds for M1/M14 systems. Always best to see what that rifle made it past final inspection. I am sure Auto Ordinance would make it right. No manufacture is immune from problems but you need to deal with Factory Service. Merely second guessing and attempting to hand fit your Bolt is a direction I would avoid. That repair correction is a job for Auto Ordinance Service and unfortunately you even conceded you may have compromised the rifles safety. I wouldn’t abandon sending the rifle to Auto Ordinance for correction.

You have to check head space

Can the hammer be polished instead of the bolt? Thanks

Great tip, but i stayed away from auto ordiance

Auto Ordnance there's your problem, get a GI Carbine

U had head space problem killer this video is bad advice

NO NO NO..I built/rebuilt dozens M1carbs..As you showed, bolt extractor was NOT closing over cartridge rim..DO NOT ALTER as you suggest..1>check headspace. 2> check headspace again..3 Buy the tool and take the bolt apart & look for grime or rough moving parts & oil or moly light grease.> THE EXTRACTOR IS NOT RIDING OVER RIM, CAUSING LIGHT STRIKE from being just out of battery; safety not ruined by your method..FIVE>>>remove extractor, plunger & spring.. POLISH face of extractor where it overrides the cartr. rim..Clean spr/plngr hole & sprg assy.. Assemble & test..You were attempting to fire OUT OF BATTERY.. weight of op-rod facing down was just enough to override extractor.....If headspace correct, polish/oil contact surfaces to assist riding over resisting extractor...Age old problem; no lube, rough mating surfaces, too stiff or too long spring, kinked spring..What the chambering assembly HAS to do is NOT being done././NEVER, NEVER alter a working part..Call Dirty Doc @ 828-507-3148. Western North Carolina..Muy hands are mostly paralized and Email is a real chore..DOC