Great video! I changed out the valve and didn't realize a lot of the ticking noises I had were because of this part. My original one was still intact but must have been leaking.

For anyone doing this job: the hose needs to be heated before pulling ! Also the guys solenoid is toast , if the cap is dirty dark yellow like the one in the video then it needs replacement.

Now I have ordered the valve and the elbow. I will change both. Thanks a lot

This is great! Such a simple component that just break because of the age of the engine. Expect worse on the new engines, so much plastic... Great video, even though I run a M112 it was yet another thing to keep track of!

it helps a lot in the finture, e63 touring in Germany

Good stuff thanks I’m a check mine tomorrow.

Hey man appreciate the video. I think this is a problem in my 2014 E550 W212 M278 I really wasn't paying it any mind now I see it's an easy fix. Thanks also for putting the part number out.

awesome video man

Great video thanks dude 👍🏻

Good video, did you flush the oil in the hose? I check mines today and it’s missing the whole orange disc in its entirety. As soon as I pulled the hose oil leaked from it 😢

Hi.. great video. Do i need to by two or one? I have E63s w212 M157

I’ve got a question not regarding this issue, but by any chance would you be willing to make any more of those intakes??

About to perform this replacement today. Hopefully it solves my issue. M278

How do you installed the blow off valve?

@brian@red can we have Mercedes part numbers for both please.

Most of those replacements have a cheapo rubber valve inside. It basically seems that if the valve is black, it's the cheapo one. Not sure how long they last, but my issue was sealing. They don't seal well because the valve is not very flexible and it's flat. The surface it seals against is not flat, it's convex. In order for the stiff flat one to seal it needs to have enough delta pressure and flow to force it to seal. That reduces the vacuum your turbo sees. The good ones, like the oem orange one, are a much thinner, wider and softer, plus they're shaped to match the sealing surface. In short, they seal right away, no delta pressure needed so you net more vacuum. Does the cheap one work well enough? Maybe. Most people who have this engine bought it for the power, and that valve is very important for power. You can disconnect the vacuum line to see how much power you lose with no vacuum, which is almost half. So just an fyi, if netting the peak power is important, don't use the cheapo black chinese crap. Also, many of the ads on ebay that show the good orange valve in the ad, are actually the black one and they'll hope you won't notice. Ask me how I know... Classic ebay scam, so be wary.

Can you tell me which one can fit a 2014 CLS Mercedes-Benz

will this show with a smoke leak test?

Mine was super oily when I took it out, wondering whether this is normal.

What’s that large piece on top of the engine? Looks like a catch can? Something?

I have a 2015 GL550 and my wastegate arm does this on startup for about 5 seconds then stops and also does this when brake applied. I have check engine light for Low boost pressure on turbo 1. Can the check valve be the culprit?

I think your pump is not working well or vacuum line is blocked with oil or turbo wastegate actuator is filled with oil, your wastegate actuator moves very slow, I had the same problem as but but i replaced vacuum pump and the response is way faster than yours

What do you mean boost issues with my car some times it seems I have more power then other times . When I first drive it in the morning then it fads later in the day

Can i get part number?