No magic was used during the making of the video. With my DRO you program the number of holes you need + 1. The last position takes you back to the start position.

Tt

Try using a fire extinguisher(co2) to chill the mandrel while keeping the chuck warmer ! Note that the mass of the chuck will take awhile to warm so use somethine like a hair dryer on the chuck plate ! If no success then blow co2 from the back n chill the mandrel !

My lathe spindle has a 1.125 dia 8tpi thread. I bought a backplate with this thread already machined.

I figured I could do that but It's actually better than my 3 jaw which is worn. i just chucked a 16mm silver steel bar in this 4 jaw and measured the runout. it is 0.05mm which is exactly what is specified on the description.

The chuck had a chamfer on the outside of the locating bore so no undercut was needed.

Good point that out! Tnx myfordboy for the chuck adapter machining video. Liked a lot your metal casting and lathe machining series 🙂🙂🙂🙂

No I just used it as it was. I am pleased with the chuck and it stays on the lathe in preference to my 3 jaw.

Thank you.

XXCoder If it moved it would be because I forgot to lock the table. One advantage of videoing your work is you can look back and see where you went wrong.

What about making your own stub drill though?

yeah i saw it tip in the chuck on most of the holes on both the mill and the drill press.. was it being held on the taper in the 3 jaw chuck?

Not held on the taper but on the round part of the adaptor. looks like i got away with it this time.

There is a place for both types. self centering can quickly hold square, round and hex and hold rectangular shapes for drilling in the centre. Also 4 jaws give a better grip than 3.

myfordboy I was wondering too, thanks.

I would have thought metal contact would be better.

The oil cups are the ones that came with the lathe. They will drain if there is oil in them and the lathe is not used for a while. Do you mean oil runs out from the bearing in use? That's fine, I have an O ring pushed over the front of the spindle and it stops it fling about.

Thanks David! I’ll try an o-ring in the front.

840rpm and the tip is a Sumutomo with a 0.2mm radius tip.

thank you

I believe it's stainless steel. It came from Chronos ltd.

Thanks for the reply, they must have changed their supplier since I last bought one from them.

It's actually better than my 3 jaw which is worn. i just chucked a 16mm silver steel bar in this 4 jaw and measured the runout. it is 0.05mm which is exactly what is specified on the description.

0.05 is quit OK for a scroll chuck

The backplate came from a model engineer supplier. You can buy pre threaded ones for most popular lathes. I did not have backgear engaged, I rarely use the backgear.

The backplate looked like steel. Are some of them cast iron? Which is best?

When you took off the chuck from the lathe I thought you had it in back gear so you could unscrew it

The way the backplate machined makes me think it's stainless steel. I cant see it makes much difference whether it's steel or iron. I know that some unmachined iron ones cost the same as the pre threaded steel ones.

I saw that too! I was yelling at the screen for him to catch his possible mistake before spotted his second hole(point of no return) LOL I have learned SO much from him over the years....

With my DRO you program the number of holes you need + 1. The last position takes you back to the start position.

Oh oh, a little bit confusing. Great video, Thanks.

Or you could program it for 3 holes with the start angle at zero and the end angle at 240 degrees. Although I use the same method as you. It takes all the math out of it. 😉

I realy only have experience with my own mill. It's at least 50 years old now. You would probably have to go for a Chinese one if you want to buy new.

@@myfordboy yeah I have been looking at older ones but my problem is space, one of the Chinese ones are probably the way forward, maybe a sieg or warco, I like the warco wm 14 or 16, they are compact and pretty capable by the specs, only problem is they seem to never have stock, So keeping my eye out. Is a belt driven mill better than a gear driven? What’s the best?

@@Darren_Barclay I belive belt drive is prefered as it is quieter. I have read of of owners modifing their gear drive ones to belt drive.

You would normally use a thread gauge to determine the tpi and thread form. See if you can find your lathe here it will probably tell you. lathes.co.uk

@@myfordboy thx

Backplate came from Chronos

It's a manual mill, no CNC. Display shows position of the bed instead of using the handwheel graduations.

@@myfordboy I understand what you mean. You're setting positions with the DRO which I believe is more precise than the readings on the hand wheels. Right? I wanted to buy a DRO but wasn't sure how to use it. I've asked a few, but they stay tight lipped 😶 about it, as if it's gold being discovered. 🙄

@@mickcarson8504 I have since replaced the display with this one ban.ggood.vip/V9Ec video here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fJxnhsuS19zHj5s.html recommended if you are looking for one.

@@myfordboy Hey, thanks for the suggestion and video (the one with the wobbly pointer LOL) but, is it What it does on screen. If so, it's great. However, it's only AU$144., whereas on eBay they sell them for 350-400+ AUD, a real rip off. Do you think this nice DRO will be okay for my new Sieg SX2LF mill machine (Google it)? If so, what make and model is the DRO please? Thanks. Also, from what I see on your video (the video with the wobbling pointer) I see some nice settings that you have done to drill multiple holes and slots on that sheet. Does that mean you have auto feeders connected to the DRO, or is that all manually done? I find these whole videos of yours very interesting, Paul. Er, sorry, is your name Paul? I am a bit mixed up 🙄

To drill the holes for example you program the DRO with the number, spacing and angle. Drill hole 1, then select hole 2 on the DRO and you move the table manually until the display reads zero, then drill hole 2 and so on. This suitable for any milling machine or lathe. You buy the scales separately according to the length required. Not called Paul!

Not sure I understand. You would have to thread the backplate the same as your spindle thread, if it is threaded.

I am very pleased with the chuck.

Спасибо. Может я и себе такой закажу.

Steve Jordan is also satisfied with Sanou chuck

Wayne D yeah i notice that too... He should modify that stoping mechanism

4x4 skoda

Kodiak skoda4x4

Yes it would, it fits my ML10.

Thanks!

It was checked and it is more acurate than my worn Pratt Burnard 3 jaw.

Алексей Абрамов Верно, особенно мне понравились кадры с выбором координат при разметке отверстий!

высший пилотаж))

Алексей, а в чем пилотаж по электронным линейкам координаты выставить? Пилотаж это циркулем разметить с первого раза и попасть.

я вот не умею электроникой пользоваться, поэтому меня это и восхищает, ожидал увидеть разметку обычным способом круговую риску и кернение через 120 градусов, не знаю зачем вам циркуль

Алексей, бонжур. Какую круговую риску? Можно по 120 гр отложить, если есть делительная головка. Если ее нет, то транспортиром градусы не выставить. Поэтому условно берут окружность, равную диаметру посадки шпилек, внутри ее строят равнобедренный треугольник (квадрат), и считают длину между вершинами фигуры. Отбив одну точку на круге, чертят искомые две, или три для квадрата в местах пересечения линий. По электронным линейкам все просто, точность до сотки, электронщиком быть не надо. Но цена девайса для большинства из нас великовата, и стремиться иногда к соимости самого станка.

You measure it with a dial indicator.

Oh. Ok then. :) Seriously though. You have to admit that from the video it looks like you're looking at the number, saying 'Eh, it'll work' and just bumping it and getting the right amount. :D

If the work is say 0.003" oversize the hand wheel is turned 1 1/2 divisions which advances the tool 0.0015 and removes 0.003"

@@myfordboy Makes you wonder if they ever worked on a lathe?