Yes, they're STILL using the same old lame CHEAP potentiometers

@@lancelnce Does anyone make high-quality potentiometers that can be used in controllers?

@@cameronabshire1195 Why potentiometers? Hall effect sticks is the future in pair with gyro aiming

@@pawes7418 I have no idea what Hall Effect sensors would be like in analog sticks. But they would be more expensive to produce, so it would probably only ever be done as a homebrew solution, if that's even possible.

@@cameronabshire1195 Check sega dreamcast controller. There is 4 magnets under analog stick. Even xbox one+ and steam controller have hall effect triggers. Also first ps3's sixaxis controller have hall effect analog sticks.

they could not sell us more controllers that way.

That's not a real fix - the input voltage is altered by the potentiometer wear, so calibrating with the new voltage as center just stops involuntary movement but the loss of precision is still there. This kit is correcting the input voltage, so there should be minimal loss of precision. Autocalibration would be great as a cheap band-aid though.

@@KillahMate Are there not potentiometers that can be adjusted by input voltage or something? It could at least be done automatically in the controller itself.

@@NotSoCheezyYT That might be a solution, but I'm not an expert and I can't say if implementing something like that is viable on a large commercial scale.

Even the Wii U does that, it’s such bs that it’s started to happen now

I agree, the saddest part is that this can be easily fixed in software...

It is that way by design. companies have gone from building a name through quality to relying more on planned obselence. As long as customers want to play their game, there will be money to burn on replacement controllers. It is also a double edged sword for the companies though. In the last 5 years or so, thanks to my Guilty Gear enthusiasm, I have gone through 7 or more controllers that had to be warranty swapped because of the shit conductive rubbers in the Dpad. I haven't had to spend a dime but it is annoying having to break in and get to know a new dpad every 6 or so months. I also hate the stick drift when it happens too. Thanks to supply chain issues and Sony being Sony it is harder to get my warranty swaps these days.

@@danieljimenez1989 it can be "kinda" fixed in software. Sometimes resistors dont have same response as they should. They can use lasers like ones in a pc mouse thou

the exact same method shown here could be used by sony and microsoft as the potentiometers are on the back of the controllers, they could add holes so you could recalibrate without opening them.

​@@cuiff62 Agree. Many things can be done. Unfortunately sometimes there are non-engineering challenges like strict request from people up top

They could put a dial on the back that allows you to calibrate with out taking the controller apart. That would be nice

Manufacturers don't even want you anywhere near their PCBs or tearing down their stuff.. don't expect them to make it easier for consumers to fix their own stuff.

@@flymanous They could/should redesign the backshell to have a port that allows you to get a small screw driver down to each of the calibration pots.

100% agree. I personally use a razer controller that costs $200… I’m a heavy gamer so my controller tends to break faster. The average lifespan of a controller is 6 months, mines roughly 1 month until I start getting drift as well as RB problems. That being said I’ve been gaming for about 12 years and I’m 21 years old now. I’ve bought probably 10 of these controllers. Costing me $2000 for just these controllers ALONE. Not to mention all the other controllers I had before this at $60 a pop. All because of the same fucking issue.

This would not be bad as a pinned comment.

Thank you so much!

If is your first time opening a controller you should pay attention and go slow to not have headache

Thanks dad

@@BRlGADE_KINGPIN you're welcome, son!

I would like to see them make hotswap sticks without the need to solder like how some keyboards have Hotswap switches or maybe something like gulikit kingkong pro 2 has with electromagnetic Sticks that's aren't never supposed to get stick drift

Sony has clearly shown to be purposedly exploiting the shitty analogs to gain more money. their pro controller has the same identical analog parts. they're modular, but do you know how much one costs? 20$. when all you'd need to replace is one potentiometer, that you can find for a few cents online. I bought 10 for less than 5€ (including shipping costs). there's full of idiots with money to waste that just keep buying new controllers when the current ones start drifting. because yay for consumerism, right? I'm never gonna buy another one of their controllers, and maybe of their products at all again (I don't have the ps5, I bought the controller to play on PC).

@@JAS0N_M00RE They do. Look up DualSense Edge.

​@@JAS0N_M00RE gulikit really has quality issues with it's controllers though

The joystick in a joycon is all one piece connect by a ribbon cable to the PCB. If you can take a part a joycon it's an easy replacement. No soldering involved.

J P it’s they’re easy enough to replace with the right tools but it’s not a reliable fix. The new sticks will do the same. Just a matter of time.

Nintendo repaired mine for free. Didnt had any waranty or recipe. They dont advertise it. Germany.

Joycon are easy to fix, I disassembled one and is only clean it with alcohol and bye bye drift.

Just buy replacement kit from iFixit or other supplier and instal new stick to your joy-con. I bought my for only 5$ and it works perfect!)

Tienes razón aunque en menor medida Microsoft, los controles son mucho mejor en ese sentido

To be fair any joystick potentiometer will eventually wear out. The only real solution is to move joystick tech over to Hall effect sensors. That will make the joysticks last for decades or longer.

@@Leclaron Hall effect sensors still develop drift due to changes over time in their magnetic field. And the only hall effect thumbsticks I know of cost $100 each, are big, ugly and only rated for half as many cycles (and are also probably horribly imprecise, but I am not willing to drop 100 bones to find out). Hall sensors are not a real solution. There is no real solution. Thats why everyone uses the same thumbstick, because it is currently the best solution electrical engineers have been able to come up with. Do you really think electrical engineers are just so dumb they never thought to use hall effect sensors in a thumbstick?

@YoRHa UNIT A2 Whats the part number of the better potentiometers you have found? Anytime I have tried using different potentiometers they have wound up being much worse than the originals.

Why wouldn't they give us an option to manually calibrate the joysticks like Nintendo did with their 3DS circle pad? I mean, how hard would it be?

they sell both on their website, but for unexperienced modders like me, this seems a lot less daunting

So how do you go about the variance in resistance in the replacement pots? As far as I know there aren’t any software to calibrate new pots

@@No-oy7we the circuit is not concerned with the amount of resistance directly, it is observing the amount of current flow. The original circuits would had to have been designed to tolerate slight variances in resistance by looking for a current value between two predetermined values that fall within the expected operation of the selected potentiometers(even with variances). Lets pick two range values to demonstrate: 4mA to 20mA. Assume the voltage applied is 5VDC. To achieve a current flow of 4mA the potentiometer needs to increase it's resistance to 1,250 ohms (4ma=5vdc/1,250 ohms). At 20mA it needs to decrease it's resistance to 250 ohms (20ma=5vdc/250 ohms). If a potentiometer selected can vary from 0 ohms to 1,500 ohms, that leaves 250 ohms of room for deviation. Most potentiometers will give 0 ohms regaurdless(as long as it isn't completely open or broken). The variance would be in it's maximum resistance; so instead of being exactly 1,500 ohms at high end, it may be 1,550 ohms or 1,400 ohms and it would still function to vary the current in the circuit between 4mA and 20mA. The potentiometers could actually lower the current below 4mA and above 20mA, but as long as they can achieve those two thresholds, the circuit could be designed to acknowledge anything above 20mA as the same as 20mA(high saturation) and anything below 4mA as the same as 4mA(or low saturation). The problem with potentiometers(or variable resistors) is that they are mechanical devices that wear and or break. The most typical way they degrade over time is the wiper inside rubs down the resistive conductors which creates conductive metal dust shorting internal parts(decreasing resistance) or the wiper wears through the resistive conductor all together resulting in an open(seen as infinite resistance). If the potentiometer shorts in a section, it creates a range of motion that will not vary the resistance(resulting in a deadzone in responsiveness). Soldering in another resistive load in parallel will merely lower total resistance and during said deadzone, the resistance will still not vary. If the potentiometer opens in a section, soldering in another resistive load in parallel would create a situation where total resistance will be lower than usual while the wiper is in contact with the portion of resistive conductor that still functions, but the total resistance would just instantly jump up to the value of the parallel resistor the moment the pot wiper was no longer making contact with it's resistive conductor. Neither situation is suitable as a repair. Just desolder the original pot and solder in a suitable replacement. If the original potentiometers were 0-1,500 ohms, then seek out a 0-1,500 ohm replacement pot. Potentiometers come in all different shapes, sizes, and values. I assure you, one can be found to replace the original pot almost perfectly.

@@exisfohdr3904 Im sure i could find a perfect replacement, just sucks that I’d have to buy 50 of them to find the closest one. I hope someone one day will be able to create a way to adjust the values stored on the controller so we can calibrate it that way because the amount of e-waste caused by this is just unnecessary

@@No-oy7we you would not need to buy 50 of them. The pot in a controller is a very specific one, with a part number and everything.

Gotta get one quick! I’m sure he’ll be making plenty more

Anyone offer a service for soddering? I don't have a kit just laying around

@@cleftboywonder I can do it if you have the pcbs already on hand. I also clean the controller and replace the thumbsticks (only xbox for now) free.

@@MachoNachoProductions do they work with the elite V2?

You’re most welcome dude! Glad you enjoyed the video! Cheers!

true but the cost for one of these is going to be less than buying a new stick module every couple of months

@@noIies If you're getting stick drift every couple of months you're doing something wrong. I've experienced stick drift, but typically only years down the line.

There is one type of stick drift that it can’t fix and that is when the spring wears out and does not properly recenter the stick.

@@meatsafemurderer7743 And how do you suppose one would do something wrong when using a controller? Obviously if you play Anno for an hour a day on your controller, it will get a lot less wear and as such take longer to develop stick drift than the sticks of someone playing CoD for 4 hours a day.

Thanks for the update.

Hey weird question, I haven’t soldered before. Is 30 watts okay for this job?

You’re most welcome! Man that stinks, this mod will definitely help though. It’s strange that drift is such a big issue nowadays. Should be a problem for new controllers. Cheers!

You should develop this with some partners. You'd make a killing.. Cuz this mod, no doubt, is going to make the creators very wealthy, I think

just use ds4windows. u can adjust easly the deadzone

DS4Windows allows you to apply deadzones to all games

If only the people who made the most popular OS in the word also made the most popular controller in the world. Oh wait, they do. Microsoft clearly wants us to have stick drift since they could solve it in one day if they wanted.

Thank you dude!

Both a repair and a mod

If you want pics of evidence feel free to reach out and I can supply them , idk the best way to show them here tbh 😅😅

It’s their way to make easy money

@@jaimito.__3877 it should be criminal. So much e waste from busted controllers

@@vgamedude12 I agree but what else can you do 🤷‍♂️

How is it overpriced? He isn't going to sell millions of these. The right price is "the minimum price to convince an entrepreneur to bring the product to market". Nobody is going to sell something at material cost to make a hundred bucks by shipping thousands of them. I view the price of $15 as a steal to repair my elite series controller. Which every shop I went to quoted $120-150.

@@levigoldson4242 I mean you could get like 5 pairs of original alps sticks for that same price. If you see it that way, they are kinda expensive. Hopefully in the future with enough sales and production they will become cheaper. I have bought used controllers for the price of this kit lol, if you want to fix a couple of them it will add up.

In my experience soldering with lead free solder is kind of a pain, if i remove the old solder with a solder wick or de-soldering pump and just then apply leaded solder after removing it. would that be enough?

@@GenesHand You would need to use lots of flux and clean the pads well with wick to remove any trace of the lead free solder. Then yes, the leaded solder would be fine.

@@GenesHand The cost of replacement pots isn’t the issue; the issue is calibration. In order to calibrate pot replacements properly, you would need to painstakingly bend each of the three pins a few millimeters at a time, a few dozen times, before soldering them in place.

I have the same problem man

How were you able to access the board? On my Prestige the wires and conductive tape from the paddles were blocking the spots for the stick drift fix? Would appreciate any help.

Yes, that is because is an XBone Controller and not an Xbox Controller.

Also, this only addresses deadzone issues, not actual drift. Actual drift manifests as inaccurate readings at the *edges* of the analog stick's range, not at the center. It's like the analog stick has permanently rotated in place. Additionally, drift causes inaccurate readings when your analog stick snaps back to the center, causing it to either move back too slowly, not at all, or overshoot it. So this isn't really a solution at all.

You replace the potentiometers. TronixFix has a few videos about this. If you can install this flex, you should be able to swap the potentiometers. EDIT: Looks like Helder is also selling said potentiometers. Grab the potentiometers to replace them, grab the flex PCBs to reset the deadzone, good as new.

@@mjc0961 I watch him and am capable myself, however MachoNacho advertised this as a permanent fix, when it is most definitely not one

@@mjc0961 Correct, but that means that the fix in this video is not the fix we are looking for.

Nice!!

Thanks for the update.

Update?

update??

😅

Because they consider it a consumable item and want you to buy a new controller every time.

The issue seems to be coming from the signal the joystick is putting out, and I'm not sure that could be calibrated in software. If you have drift and set the zero point in software to where the controller naturally rests, then you change the drift to the opposite direction. Because it's still registering the stick as tilted. If it's a small drift you could make that part of the controller a dead zone, but then you lose precision. If you compensate for the tilt by assuming the opposite of it, you've changed the range of tilt for the joystick. The new maximum amount of tilt in the direction with drift becomes the old maximum tilt minus the amount of drift. Now since potentiometers can be adjusted to correct the issue with full range, it would be possible to create a hardware / software solution by putting some digital potentiometers in the controller for the firmware to calibrate with. But that's a lot of hardware and dev work which would increase the price of the controller for a problem that affects a subset of people. Maybe it'd still be worth it to be able to fix controller drift? I could see it both ways. But realistically as things are now the best thing to do with controller drift is make sure to return the controller or use the manufacturer's warranty if still available. They don't make money off returns / warranty claims so if enough of those come up they'll start making choices on how to make sure fewer controllers are affected by drift. All of that said, I work in software and am only a hobbyist in electronics so there might be more to it than that. But from a software perspective that's how I see it.

@@XMorbius All you need to do is make it a deadzone. It's so small most of the time, only the biggest tryhard, mlg nutcases would care.

Nintendo has been found by Japanese. Others are found by European/Asian employees. Difference is like Earth and Saturn. Let’s be honest.

@@createdshocked4700 2 of the 3 major console devs are Japanese, as well as those 2 being the biggest ones in the world. Xbox even borrowed some design advice from their Japanese employees when the OG Fat Xbox controller (nicknamed the "Duke") failed massively way back when. It's not about race, rather whether devs want to try or not. Nintendo has been doing this since the N64 days. Sony and Microsoft just have to either develop their own analogue sticks, or ALPS needs to make sticks more durable.

@@createdshocked4700 lol sony and nintendo both have been literally sued for having this issue

Would it work on GameCube ?

This might work too. If potentiometers are the problem you can still use this board. It won’t fit as nicely but you just have to solder it using wires. As Tito said only those 6 solder points matter.

This would in theory work with some shell mods, I think they use the same resistance. The Gamecube controller PCB rests directly on the rear plastic for support, so you'd have to shave off where these pots are. What I typically do is desolder a joystick mechanism from a lightly used Wii Nunchuck and solder it into the Gamecube controller, this is to provide a snappy responsive part.

@@othertonywi1son I figured there might be a way to mod these. I am also curious about another application in a Japanese Hori Wii classic controller I have which has some drifting (the one I have is baby blue -- a very cool controller that is awesome when paired with various adapters). Seems the joysticks are similar to the Hori Battle Pad ones; it might be easier to just harvest a replacement from one of those.

This will for sure fix it

wierd, I have one I've used almost all the time the last 4 years and it's fine

@@MachoNachoProductions I love watching your videos man, thanks for hearting my comment. I would attempt to install this but I'm scared, I will make it worse since I've got no experience opening my controller. 😀😬

Nice!

@@RetroLodge if you take it really does you should be ok. just watch out for the bumpers and triggers cause they will fall off easily and send those tiny springs flying. it's not too bad, and if you watch a good video showing you how I'm confident you'll be fine! good luck

exactly

Did it broke after 1yr

This thing now u can buy off AliExpress for 1 dollar per pcs

I'm pretty sure it'd work in a 360 controller...hell I think it'd work in a PS1 controller! They all use the same basic analog assembly with all the same pins in the same places. Analog stick technology hasn't changed since the 90's (which is part of the problem).

That wouldn't work cause then you wouldn't be able to input full right if the offset is to the left for example

@@frogg4711 Yea, you could train the model for your resting + full LRUD directions. This is my point; an intercepting device is flexible because it's software operated. Anyway, it's all theoretical, to the best of my knowledge no one makes anything like this.

@@StephenArsenault No, it wouldn't work. The controller itself takes the resistance and outputs data in the range of 0.0 - 1.0, with a center of 0.5. If, at rest, your stick is at 0.8 then you lose the full range of movement with a software solution. The centering has to be done in hardware, either automatically at power on by the controller itself, as the PS2 / Gamecube controllers did, or manually with a potentiometer.

​@@meatsafemurderer7743 The controller architecture knows "0.0 - 1.0" is the desired full range and we know that the aged controllers present less (e.g., "0.0 - 0.8" to continue the original example). To address this short coming we would use an intercepting device between the joy stick to divide the joystick output into 512 steps between "0.0 - 0.8". This provides the opportunity for the interceptor to use the "0.0 - 0.8" as an input and map the output to 512 increments of the desired output (e.g, "0.0 - 1.0"). Your joy stick would no longer independently produce the full range of motion but with the assistance of a device to intercept and re-interpret the signal as a new output to the controller architecture, it would restore the experience of a full range of motion.

@@StephenArsenault You misunderstood my point. If the center point is 0.8 then the range on the pots is 0.3 - 1.3. Since the controller clips the output at 1.0 that means that you have an effective range of 0.3 - 1.0. Since it's centered around 0.8 that means that you have a precision of just +/- 0.2 (0.6 - 1.0). Even if you normalise that to + 0.5 it's never going to regain the lost information because you're doing the correction after the analog to digital conversion, all you're doing is stretching the values out. Pushing it to hypothetical extremes that could result in an "analog" stick that has only 2 speeds.

He does PayPal Checkout.

@@kaibaman1350 Only after forcing you to create an account and fill in all your information. I said easily checkout with paypal, you know like most websites. Where you simply click the paypal button select your shipping address and you are on your way. But frankly he should just be selling through a reputable 3rd party website like amazon or ebay.

I hope so too

There's got to be bigger issues with your controller then, because most drift is cause by the conductive surface inside the joystick module wearing away and changing the resistance values. Replacing the whole module should have fixed that and I can't see how this flex pcb would fix that.

What I have heard about Xbox controllers maybe this applies to switch pro controllers as well is that the sticks inside the controller comes calibrated from factory and this data is hard coded into the PCB. So when you replace your sticks you actually need to adjust the new pots so they line up with the values the controller is expecting. From what I can see this mod looks to be a very good way to fix this issue.

Yeah I been having trouble also with the newest ps4 controllers I switched around 1000 controllers alaredy but every single ps4 jdm-055 controller I have done has not been fix so there has to be something else that we have to do because everything that I've read no one has been able to fix the newest ps4 controllers

better than forking over another $70 for yet another controller, no?

Serial connection. Additional pots used are there to supplement the required resistances, that the original pots lost, due to degradation. Parallel connection won't be able to accomplish that. Total resistance will be lesser than both the original and added pot.

guess helder and gulikit should have a conversation. :) and please, folks, use a bit of hot air to peel the stickers off instead of cutting into them... looks much neater when finished.

Yeah, it extends the life by 2x maybe, you can invest in hall effect modules when it gets cheaper though plus it's reusable, just remove it from older gamepads you don't need. As well, hall effect stick modules do have natural drift, because it is super sensitive and needs springs or something to center the stick solidly.

Or wait a few weeks till ZedLabz get them to sell over in the UK and Europe

To be fair to @@Angryhelder, it's probably far cheaper to send large batches to Zedlabz to stock as opposed to individual separate customers. That's unless they wish to setup their own UK warehouse and want staff to run it. 😉

@@ToxoRetro that is what the plan is, he sells from a large batch to UK and European customers

@@Angryhelder 🤘😎 From my experience, Zedlabz are quick, reliable and have a great customer service (I had one faulty product in which they got on and sorted). If they can support companies with a good reputation (such as what I've heard about your products from US KZfaqrs) whilst keeping prices tags sensible for UK/European customers, that's win-win-win. Thank you for looking after us in 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿, 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 & 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿! 😁🍻

Did it work for you ?

Thank you!!

I don't doubt that what you're saying might accelerate the process, but it's really just degradation of pots with use. Another fix is to just replace sensors in these pots, which won't even require you to solder anything, unless you fuck it up, that is. The actual solution will be the use of Hall sensors, instead of pots. Those things are much better suited for this task and will probably never malfunction.