Macintosh Color Classic STEREO MOD

Рет қаралды 1,735

Күн бұрын

Want louder sound with stereo separation in your Color Classic? I walk you through the entire mod, with teardowns of the LC575 & Performa 630. Mouser Cart below.
🔎 INDEX
0:00 - Intro
1:07 - Parts List
3:03 - LC575 Teardown
7:15 - TDA7052A IC Extraction
8:17 - 2nd Speaker Acquisition
11:22 - Performa 630 Teardown
16:43 - Speaker Impedance
18:31 - INSTALLATION
35:35 - Testing
42:25 - AppleDesign Powered Speakers
46:24 - Closing Thoughts
🛒 BUY THE PARTS
• MOUSER cart (does NOT include RS2, Speaker or IC): bit.ly/3e3ayhq
(Move existing RS7 to RS2 pads.)
• Speaker (8Ω, 70x30mm, p/n: MCABS-235-RC):
1) element14: bit.ly/3ASqDOS
2) Farnell: bit.ly/3Bp5kWO
3) Newark: bit.ly/3RMFZvi
• Amplifier IC (p/n: TDA7052AN):
1) EBAY: ebay.to/3Bl31DU
2) AliExpress (fake?): bit.ly/3RtC32w
3) UTsouce:
• TDA7052AN: bit.ly/3RMkURC
• TDA7052A/N2: bit.ly/3qjcvJt
• TDA7052A/N2,112: bit.ly/3x7CUxL
⚠️You also need WIRE, male & female connectors, and heat-shrink tubing:
• Heat Shrink Kit: amzn.to/34Cwzzj
Either of the following are a matched pair of 2-pin male & female connectors with 22AWG short 10cm long wires attached on Amazon. You'd need to lengthen the wires with your own wire:
• amzn.to/3SqIS7T
• amzn.to/3vQmhsy
Alternatively, you could buy this 50cm wire & 2-pin (male & female) kit and then solder wires to the female connectors:
amzn.to/491nvjb
🛒 BUY TOOLS
• 10x Loupe: amzn.to/3tW1lf0
• 5x/11x Magnifier: amzn.to/3lGogXI
• Hakko Soldering Station (Fisher Price colors): amzn.to/3ArxBJ6
💁‍♂️TIP: Use 350°C & Leaded solder.
• Solder (Leaded Rosin Core 0.8mm): amzn.to/3GzJbVl
• 2-spool Solder Holder: amzn.to/39hIMbt
• AMTECH 559 "V2" Flux (flawed plunger): amzn.to/3Muf4C2
• MG Chemicals Flux (great plunger): amzn.to/3kuAcsZ
• Desoldering wick: amzn.to/3iMAnA5
• DE-5000 Handheld LCR Meter: amzn.to/2ScttJz
The best handheld meter to check capacitor ESR! Includes all 3 accessories: TL-21, TL-22 & TL-23.
(If Amazon is out of stock, please check EBAY.)
• Fume Extractor: amzn.to/3MApWyb
• 99% ISO Alcohol (Spray Bottle!): amzn.to/3ae4fG6
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/3NoFkxN
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/2MkjS3h
💁‍♂️I gave you 3 alcohol choices above because it's often out of stock. 70% will work, 91% is better, but 99% is best for electronics cleaning (fast drying & no residue).
🛒 BUY MY POLO SHIRT
• 8 Bit Tees (Mine is size L. I'm 5'9". Fits me well.): bit.ly/3d0BVbX
🤘 KERO'S MAC MODS Store (Japan): en.infinityproducts.co.jp/shop-1
(Kay Koba didn't pay me to mention this. I just like his stuff!)
📷 MY CAMERA GEAR (used in making most of my videos):
• Panasonic GH5: amzn.to/39TAGtK
• GH5 II (newer version of my camera): amzn.to/3brSTyJ
• Olympus 60mm F2.8 Macro (used for all closeups): amzn.to/3u805Xb
• Olympus 12-100mm F4 (great all-around zoom lens!): amzn.to/39WJAGN
• Olympus 40-150mm F2.8 (fast glass with a long reach!): amzn.to/3Af3GqB
• Sony Tough 256GB SD Card (amazingly good!): amzn.to/3OyKwjO
• LAV Mic (BOYA by-M1 Pro): amzn.to/3bzfb1G
• Tripod (carbon fiber!): amzn.to/3QVuz8Q
(Tripod video review is here: • DiC&MiC P303C (now INN... )
💵 NOTE: Your price on Amazon (US only) is the same even if you don't click the "amzn.to" Affiliate links above, but if you do click & purchase within 24 hours, Amazon may pay me a small commission on qualifying items in your Cart.
📚 REFERENCE
• 3D Printable Speaker CASE (⬇️file download) by jagmn: bit.ly/3cTGtRh
🧔‍💰Send a THANK YOU to the creator, jagmn: bit.ly/3Bkg48L
• TinkerDifferent thread (detailed, accurate info): bit.ly/3qhcKF8
• Datasheet for Amplifier IC: bit.ly/3ezmYhy
• Instructions by Stuart Bell & Alexey Danilchenko: bit.ly/3Db2HZN
• Instructions by CCFAQ (⚠️WARNING! Errors!): bit.ly/3KZlTvE
• AppleDesign Powered Speakers MANUAL: bit.ly/3BwTV7m
💾 SOFTWARE
• Snooper 2.0: bit.ly/3cmz0tg
• Duke Nukem: bit.ly/3NztnpS
🙏 MY SINCERE THANKS to these recent Paypal contributors (Sept. 2022):
• Mauro Acciaccaferri (monthly supporter)
• Gavin Maxwell (new monthly supporter)
• Philippe from France (new monthly supporter)
💰HOW TO SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
(If you do very kindly donate, please let me know if I have permission to use your full name, or use something like John in Texas, when I give you public thanks in a future video. Pronunciation help is also appreciated!)
📺 Please SUBSCRIBE:
kzfaq.info?sub_c...
🎶 Music Credits
• Smooth Bed 2, CC BY-ND 3.0 by Anders Enger Jensen: bit.ly/3JPllrk
• Other music is CC0 from: bit.ly/3RAgHkh
#Macintosh #ColorClassic #Stereo #JDW

Пікірлер: 51

@cemc.852 2 ай бұрын

Is this stereo mod only for CC with Mystic (LC575) logic board? How about original logic board? Will this mod enable stereo on default CC?

@JDW- 2 ай бұрын

The logic board is irrelevant to the Stereo Mod. If you watch my video, you will see me modify only the Analog Board, which is the same if you have the stock CC motherboard or an LC575 motherboard. So yes, the Stereo mod works for stock CC's too. That's why I didn't put LC575 or Mystic in the video title. With that said, the stock CC is a real pain to use. "Excruciating" is not overemphasizing how I personally feel when using the stock board. Believe me, it's nothing at all like using a 16MHz 68030 B&W Mac like the SE/30, which has a rather zippy and quite usable UI. Color makes that 16MHz '030 super slow on the stock CC. Plus, you're limited to only 10MB! I can upgrade my SE/30 to 128MB! Even if you only swap out the motherboard for an LC520, it's still much faster and more usable than the stock motherboard. The LC575 is faster still. I strongly recommend all CC owner's swap out the motherboard with something better. Trust me, you will overcome your desire for a "stock" system REAL fast when you have a better board in there. Apple should have never released the CC with a 16MHz CPU. The CC II (and LC550) was a vastly better machine in terms of speed and maximum RAM.

@cemc.852 2 ай бұрын

@@JDW- Thank you very much. I must have done it not properly then because stereo option is grayed out and not selectable in sound management. I'll check. I'd like to buy 575 logic board but they are not easy to find or quite expensive unfortunatelly.

@JDW- 2 ай бұрын

@@cemc.852 The key to making the stereo mod work is the TDA7052A amplifier chip. If that chip is missing, bad, or install in reverse, then there won't be sound out of the new speaker. As to buying an LC575 board, most sellers of the board only are rip-off artists. I was advised by a friend here in Japan to just buy a super cheap LC575 computer that is basically falling apart (not hard to find). Usually they are almost orange they are so yellow, with plastics so brittle they almost fall apart just sitting stationary. But normally they have a good logic board. I was able to get an entire machine like that for less than $100 shipped from Yahoo Auctions Japan. Buyee makes purchasing via Yahoo Auctions easier for people outside Japan, but shipping charges make make such cost prohibitive. Even so, there are a lot of damaged LC575 machines in the US. One guy who lives in Europe bought an LC520 (same problem with brittle plastics) from Yahoo Auctions via Buyee and upon delivery to Buyee, the machine fell to pieces. He wrote to me asking if he could donate the parts to me, since he wanted the entire machine, not just parts inside. I mention that only to say that most of the LC500 series get damaged during shipping, even when carefully handled. And as a result, you can sometimes find deals on the entire machine. Meaning, a price usually less than the price of the motherboard only -- as strange as that sounds.

@cemc.852 2 ай бұрын

@@JDW- I checked, desoldered and resoldered everything again but no luck. Both speakers work, but in mono.

@JDW- 2 ай бұрын

@@cemc.852 While I'm glad to hear you got sound out of both speakers, I am terribly sorry you are not getting true stereo. I never checked my stock CC motherboard because I already did the VGA mod which is not compatible with that motherboard. After reading your reply today, I did a little online research and found information that suggests the stock CC and some of the early LC series too had only mono sound: 68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/stereo-mod-for-color-classic.30391/#post-324984 Later in that 68kMLA thread there was a discussion about stereo, and it seems that "Tim S" embarked about doing that mod in order to get stereo, and while he doesn't specifically say "I got stereo," it seems that he had some success but the joy was reduced when he discovered the volume was lower than expected. Not sure if "Tim S" would reply to a PM in light of the fact he hasn't been active in that forum since 2018, but it's worth a shot. And I would recommend that even if you aren't yet a 68kMLA member. Because it seems there really aren't any better options out there. The only other alternative is to post in your preferred forum or FaceBook group, linking to that 68kMLA discussion and asking for the experiences of others. Who knows. Maybe someone else has tried it with their stock CC motherboard. But at some point you probably will want to replace that motherboard with a 575 (Mystic), and I know from personal experience that board works. They are just hard to find unless you buy the entire machine. Because this is an important topic and because you are the first person to discuss it, I am making your comment a pinned post for others to read.

@pocketscience911 Жыл бұрын

Another great video - nicely done James!

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

Thank you, Gavin!

@Mr.Fahrenheit_451 Жыл бұрын

Awesome video, James!

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for your kind words!

@BigBadBench Жыл бұрын

Super fun mod and incredibly thorough video as always!

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

Thanks! 🙂

@SatanicMac Жыл бұрын

"2 speaker louder than 1" should be a t-shirt itself

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

And on the back that T-shirt should say: "...but not much louder." Because unfortunately even with two speakers, the maximum volume still isn't enough to satisfy. Apple addressed that in later machines like the LC575 by putting the two speakers in their proper place -- firing straight at the listener. Even so, two are better than just the one, and I think the Stereo Mod is worth it as a result. Besides, you get stereo separation too, which is really the point. You can't take advantage of that from System beeps, but games like Duke Nukem are more enjoyable. And since most vintage Mac owners tend to play games on them, rather than do Word, Excel or Photoshop work for one's job, that's important.

@ymkdevices4052 Жыл бұрын

A very nice walk-through, well done! I wouldn't want to carve up the chassis for the second speaker either. The flat sides of the CC make me wonder if stick-on exciters would work well mounted to the inside.

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching! I wouldn't recommend an exciter to use the plastic chassis as a speaker because I only recently discovered the cause of the "screen flutter" I mention at 37:59 -- vibration! I found that I can cause the CRT to flutter like that (much more pronounced when viewing it with your eyes instead of in my video), just by tapping on the top of the machine! With each tap, it flutters a bit. The reason why it flutters more for some sounds than others is because some sounds are louder and vibrate more than others. So deliberate vibrations caused by exciters would be a constant source of CRT fluttering. Not sure if that is normal on every Color Classic or just mine.

@95Comics 3 ай бұрын

before gutting that machine even further, could you have installed the original color classics board and made a usable vintage mac? what about installing a mac mini instead of the old logic board? could you make a core2duo lc 575 mac that way? or does the monitor require the original logic board?

@mcbeav 22 күн бұрын

Love your videos! Thanks for the great information! I'm fairly new to all this, how can you tell the polarity for the MLCC caps, or does it not have a polarity? I am finding conflicting information online, and the case itself doesn't seem to have any markings, and the board doesn't denote it either. I'm assuming the orientation doesn't matter, but I just want to be sure.

@JDW- 21 күн бұрын

Thank you for your kind words. MLCC caps (aka ceramic capacitors) are not polarized. They work properly in either orientation.

@mcbeav 21 күн бұрын

@@JDW- Thanks for the quick response and helpful information! I really appreciate it!

@tombarber8929 Жыл бұрын

Great video(as always) James! I wonder if there's a way to hack the OS so it will give the stereo balance slider? I just got a mystic board for my color classic, so definitely planning to do the VGA mod and possibly this one too, plus I get to use the wonderful Spicy O Clock that Kay gave me a while ago.

@tombarber8929 Жыл бұрын

Maybe something as simple as using the Wish I Were control panel and choosing a computer that actually has stereo

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

@@tombarber8929 Interesting. I will have to give that a try. But if that doesn't work, then I would absolutely love to see a hack to make balance adjustment possible!

@cosmokramer4585 6 ай бұрын

Getting ready to start this mod. Have amp chip ordered and about to place my order with mouser. Any chance you can guide me to a good connector to use? Both male and female variant so I can remove the speaker. Any help with P/Ns would Be fantastic. I like your setup

@JDW- 6 ай бұрын

Mouser might seem convenient since you're planning to place an order with them, but their connectors are rather expensive, and they don't include wires. The cheapest and best solution overall would come from Amazon because many kits offer the same 2-pin connectors I used, and they have wires crimped and attached to those connectors. Wire length is only 10cm on some of the kits, but I did find one kit that offers 50cm long wires. I added links and all the details in the text description under the video just now, so please check the "🛒 BUY THE PARTS" section where you see the "⚠️" icon. For the power levels we are talking about in the Color Classic, 22AWG wire will be fine. Just make sure you twist it like I did at 34:39. If you aren't satisfied with 22AWG wire, then you would need to buy thicker 18AWG wire (also on Amazon), then shorten the 22AWG wires attached to one of the connector kits on Amazon, then solder your thicker wire to the short wire stubs, then overlay your solder connector with heatshrink to prevent shorts. Doing that would slightly reduce the overall wire resistance (thicker wire has lower resistance). But again, I don't think that is necessary as 22AWG should be sufficient for the low power used to drive these speakers.

@tenminutetokyo2643 Жыл бұрын

The Apple Design speakers were the bomb back in the day but now seem sort of cheesy.

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

They sound good, which is why I included them in a comparison. As you could probably hear, they sound significantly better than the dual internal speaker set up inside the Color Classic. The two big problems that I see with them are that the speaker grill is metal and my grill is slowly rusting, and it’s pretty much impossible to desist a painted speaker grill because you would need to remove the paint and repaint it which would be just a mess. The other thing is the case is plastic which means it has the potential to yellow overtime making it bothersome to de-yellow. I suppose another big problem, and perhaps the biggest of all, is that they are no longer made and becoming extremely hard to find as well as expensive.

@davidn5013 Жыл бұрын

Why re solder? Can't you connect the old speak to the new cabel connection and vice versa?

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

No I cannot because I used connectors I had on hand when building my new twisted pair cable for the new speaker, and those connectors were of a totally different shape. So basically, I ended up with two incompatible sets of connectors. I later swapped out the stock twisted pair cable with a new handmade cable of the same wire thickness as my first handmade twisted pair cable (thicker than the stock cable was), and I added the same type of connector on it as my first handmade cable. I then swapped out the stock connector on the stock speaker for the correct mating connector my handmade cable required. That allowed me to switch the speaker connections, which resolved the problem of the L & R channels being reversed. Overall, I'm pleased with this solution. But of course, if you make your own cable and have the means to use the same exact connector as the stock connector, that would be best. But the most important thing is to just keep in mind that when you do this stereo mod, for some reason the L & R channels will be reversed, so you need to wire the speakers accordingly.

@davidn5013 Жыл бұрын

@@JDW- Thank you! Put very well.

@1BitFeverDreams Жыл бұрын

I'd love to do this for my CC but I gotta make sure my Japanese unit is voltage level accurate in Canada. The CRT colors have come in and out at times after a full analog and logic board recap

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

You are telling me that you did not have any problem with colors whatsoever before your recap, but then after the recap the problem with colors began?

@1BitFeverDreams Жыл бұрын

@@JDW- I'll post an update on tinker different. The behavior is not consistent between sessions. Not ideal.

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

@@1BitFeverDreams I just checked on TinkerDifferent but see you haven't posted anything yet. I look forward to reading more about the color issue you're having.

@1BitFeverDreams Жыл бұрын

@@JDW- just updated the thread now. no rush, thanks for taking an interest

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

@@1BitFeverDreams I see your new post here, thanks: tinkerdifferent.com/threads/mu0ns-color-classic-thread.1252/page-3#post-16117

@michaelmullett7327 Жыл бұрын

James is there anyone, you, K. Koba, that would be willing to attempt a Color Classic TAKKY Mod? I have the 5500 Board and the Sonnet 500MHz card I just need help with the case and the rewiring work to get it to work!

@JDW- Жыл бұрын

Kay Koba is the foremost expert on that in my circle of friends because he has done it before, more than once. I would highly recommend sending him a PM on TinkerDifferent or FaceBook or sending him an email if you have his address.

@michaelmullett7327 Жыл бұрын

@@JDW- thanks JDW that’s good info to know

@whatever000whenever 11 ай бұрын

Just switch the speaker connectors?

@JDW- 11 ай бұрын

No, that would be too easy! 🙂 BTW, have you don't the mod on your machine yet? If not, I'd highly recommend you give it a try. It's not a huge improvement over the single speaker, but it is noticeable. I think it was worth the effort.

@Fred_Raimer 11 ай бұрын

@@JDW- James, can you recommend someone selling the 3d printed speaker enclosure?

@JDW- 11 ай бұрын

@@Fred_Raimer Fred, that is answered in the REFERENCE section of the text description under the video. I actually include more in the text descriptions at times than I do in the video. So when you watch any of my videos, always be sure to check there for a load of extra info. But here's the answer that will save you some time right now: 3D Printable Speaker CASE by jagmn: bit.ly/3cTGtRh

@Fred_Raimer 11 ай бұрын

@@JDW- 😀Unlike my last question, I actually read all the wonderful detail you take the time and incredible effort to provide! I even went over to 68mla and read the entire thread. The problem I have is that I don't have a 3d printer nor do I know anyone who does. Now James . . . do you want me to get in even *more* trouble with my wife by having me buy one? She already blames "that guy" I watch all the time on KZfaq for the 8 compact Macs I have purchased LOL. Do you want her flying to Japan and clobber you over the head with the Thunder Scan you "made" me buy? OK, enough kidding - you have a new video to work on and I can't wait to view another masterpiece by "that guy!" Thanks again for all you do for our community!!

@JDW- 11 ай бұрын

@@Fred_Raimer Fred, I don't own a 3D printer either. The good news is the various online services will print the 3D file. A lot of people I've spoken with who do PCB work have recommended JLCPCB because they offer a 3D printing service here: 3d.jlcpcb.com/3d-printing-quote Upload the "tabless" version of the speaker case 3D file here: 68kmla.org/bb/index.php?attachments/cc_speaker_notab-obj-zip.45452/ After uploading, choose FDM(plastic) and then click on the ABS tab. Then choose Black or White as the color choice. Type in a product description such as "speaker enclosure." Then on the right side choose USA as your shipping destination country. Shipping is expensive compared to the price of the plastic case, but DHL is fast. Seems like the total cost will be about $20. You could choose other plastics, but ABS is what the original speaker case was manufactured in, so it makes sense to choose the same plastic for the new 3D printed case. I hope this helps!