Thank you for your feedback. "Constantly trying to eject" is NOT normal behavior. As I mention at 12:44 though, mismatched ROMs and 400K drives will result only in a Sad Mac, not a constant eject problem. Most likely, one of the black plastic IR sensors is dirty or otherwise blocked. If you watch from 21:45, you will see me remove a plastic piece from the middle of one of those IR sensors (aka "optical sensors"). That moving plastic piece must be removed for inspection and cleaning. Also, that IR sensor near the front of the drive detects whether or not a disk is inserted. A different IR sensor pertains to the eject mechanism. I would suggest you inspect and clean all the IR sensors, then test again. If the problem is gone, you're done. If the problem is not solved, it could be anything from a jammed mechanical part that requires lubrication, to a fault on the circuit board. But when investigating problems like that, it's often helpful to have more than one vintage Mac in which to test, to ensure you can rule out issues possibly caused by the Mac itself. I don't think the Mac is causing the problem in your case. I am just trying to speculate "what ifs" right now, assuming your IR Sensor cleaning doesn't work. I suspect it will though as such has worked for me in the past.

@@JDW- Thanks for your reply, regarding the black Sensor, I cleaned the sensor and nothing is in the middle of it. The behavior is only when no disk is inserted. Any other Idea?

@@user-xp8yl5pk7w When you said there is "nothing in the middle of it," I assume you mean there is no dirt there, but if you mean there is no plastic piece there, it's a problem. Because as you can see in my video, there must be a moving piece of plastic in the middle part of that sensor. If you have no dirty and you also have the correct piece of plastic (which slides) in the middle of your sensor, and if you have indeed inspected and cleaned all the IR sensors, not just that one, then like I said in my previous reply, the problem could be related to something frozen up on the drive. Your opening post indicates you fully cleaned and lubed the drive, that would point to another problem. But those problems are rare. In the vast majority of cases, "constant ejection" problems pertain to the optical sensors. The other problems are problems indeed because they pertain to either the ejection motor or the circuit board itself. And that's why I said in my previous reply that having another Mac of the same type is useful, so you can try the drive in that other Mac to see if it has the same problem, and if it does, then you know the problem is absolutely on the drive, and the problem has nothing to do with the Mac at all.

@@JDW- Yes no dirt, sprint is working and the plastic arm is there moving perfectly. Maybe the Sensor is bad... The question will be if I can get a replacement, part. The one on the left must be the issue.

@@user-xp8yl5pk7w Your best option is to find a cheap or free junk 400K drive for the purpose of using its parts. Most likely, the junk drive is just mechanically frozen and has a good circuit board and sensors. In fact, if you had such a drive, you could swap the PCB to see if that made a change. If not, you could then resort to swapping only that one IR sensor. I do this sort of thing myself. I usually have working devices and then junk devices as spare parts. I know this isn’t the type of fast solution you are seeking, but I’m afraid that you’ve already tried cleaning the sensor and found that didn't work, and you’ve cleaned and lubed the drive itself, which is why the only explanation for the continued troubles must be either a bad sensor or something wrong on the circuit board.

Thank you for letting me know. I have updated the Mouser cart so there are no more backordered items. If your question about the RIFA pertains to the one on the Analog Board, that is contained in the Mouser Cart I provide in the text description under my Analog Board video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hM1oecKCu83FhJc.html

I'd argue it's the best calculator ever made, even for technical people who can't program. Alas, most people have a Brain Cloud that prevents them from learning RPN. And yet, RPN is what great HP calculators are all about. Therein lies greatness!

Lamentablemente, HP no se ha mostrado entusiasmado con sus productos de calculadora desde hace mucho tiempo. Y, hasta donde yo sé, ningún proveedor externo se ha ofrecido nunca a ofrecer este tipo de piezas de repuesto.

Thank you for your kind words. MLCC caps (aka ceramic capacitors) are not polarized. They work properly in either orientation.

@@JDW- Thanks for the quick response and helpful information! I really appreciate it!

Sometimes, but not all the time. It could be that your backlight simply is not working, and to confirm that you need to power on the machine and then shine a flashlight into the screen. If you see something, the backlight is the problem. If you see nothing, it’s the graphics card.

@@JDW- do i need to also renew the thermal paste or not, when baking the GC?

@@Mikey_Official Absolutely positively REMOVE all the existing thermal paste BEFORE your bake! Then after the bake and after your card cools, you will need to apply new thermal paste. I recommend K5 Pro on the memory chips because it is a thermal pad replacement paste that can be used without need to measure anything. I recommend Arctic MX-4 paste on the GPU chip, not only because it has good thermal transfer, but because it has 8-year durability. Use 99% or 100% IPA to clean off the old paste. Yes, 70% will work, but it has a lot of water in it. 100% IPA has no water and is a more powerful cleaner, and it won't harm your PCB either.

@@JDW- how much does all of this gonna cost me, and can i just use a regular thermal paste on the chip and the gpu instead?

If the replacements are properly chosen, in terms of the capacitors, the answer to your question is yes. But it could be that another component within your CRT TV might fail in the next 30 years. Specifically, the flyback transformer is often a point of failure.

It seems that you are talking about something else other than graphics card applications because I read and reply to every comment under all of my videos that pertain to the Bake, and not a single person has reported anything like you have about K5 pro. I also swapped out the card for a 6970M in April 2020 and that machine is still in service today without any problems whatsoever. Remember, K5 pro is not intended for CPUs. And I didn’t use it on my GPU either. I used it for the VRAM chips. They don’t get nearly as hot as a CPU or GPU. For heatsinking VRAM chips it’s perfectly fine. If someone is trying to convince you that K5 pro is unsuitable even for a 1 mm thickness, then I would argue that thermal pads themselves aren’t suitable. That’s because K5 pro is a thermal pad replacement paste. So if those people who you read about who are complaining about K5 pro are trying to use it on things like a CPU and GPU then of course that is not suitable. That goes outside its intended purpose. And no, I’ve not heard of K5 pro boiling either, probably because it is a thermal pad replacement paste, not a CPU or GPU paste. For the application shown my videos on the video card bake, where I used K5 pro exclusively on the VRAM chips, it’s perfectly usable, and I have the years of experience to prove it. So I still highly recommend K5 pro regardless of what somebody out there on the Internet has said about it. Nobody pays me to say what I’m telling you now. I’m simply giving you my experienced opinion about a product that I myself have confidence in, and which I’ve seen others use with success too. By the way, I know that you’re not complaining about my videos or K5 pro. You are merely reporting to me things you have heard on the Internet and you’re asking my opinion on it. And I’ve given that to you. So please don’t misinterpret my words as being directed at you. I have come across many people who claim that the Bake itself is bad, but those people don’t know what they’re talking about. And again, I and countless other people have experienced to prove it. If you go through all of my Bake videos and count the number of comments you’ll see just how many people have tried it was success. And it does last a surprisingly long period of time too. So I think most people can proceed with the Bake in confidence and use the pastes that I recommend because I’m not just recommending something that I have not use myself. Many other people have been using them too with success. That matters far more than any number of expert opinions you may have heard out there. Because at the end of the day, what is an “expert opinion“? I myself feel it is not simple an opinion from people who merely sound to know what they’re talking about, but an opinion from people who are experienced in using the paste for many years in an application that I’ve been talking about. When use it properly,K5 pro works well. And it lasts a good number of years too. Below is the video where I changed my graphics card to a 6970M, and I replaced it at that time, using K5 pro on the VRAM chips. AMD 6970M upgrade for 2009 iMac 27" [Video Card] kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8qApqti36-1fac.html

Thanks for your thorough reply (and great videos!) I ended up ordering some K5 Pro and will do the bake. I read a discussion between users and the manufacturer of the paste on Reddit, that's my source.

Thank you for replying back and letting me know about the source of your information. I honestly think you’ll be happy with the K5 Pro paste. And as far as I know, it’s still the “paste” substitute for thermal pads. And the reason I use K5 Pro is because it’s extremely difficult to measure the exact gap between the top of those the VRAM chips and the heatsink. A paste eliminates any worry about getting the wrong thickness of a thermal pad, but you cannot use regular thermal paste to do that. You need something like K5 Pro which is intended to be used in situations where a greater thickness is required and that thickness needs to be maintained over time. So long as you don’t use it on very hot chips like a GPU or CPU, it should work fine, just as it has been working fine on my 6970M graphics card VRAM chips since April 2020.

@@JDW- Just reporting back to say I did the bake and my 2010 imac is again up and running. Thanks for helping out!

@einargoksyrasen7636 that’s wonderful to hear. Thank you for making time to let me know your success! Best wishes.

Not sure what you mean when you say "time with heat on component." I can only assume you were saying I applied heat for a longer period of time than you would. Even so, I can say that the end result was good. The board worked the very first time I flipped on the power switch. Nothing was damaged by heat. No scotch marks either. However, removing the chips with hot air left me rather unsettled. I now have a Hakko FR-301. That would have made the chip desoldering job much easier, I think. Hot air can warp chips, and even though I have much experience with it, it still worries me more than a soldering iron or desoldering gun.

If you enjoy soldering, this is certainly a fantastic project for that. Also, Kai is still active on the Tinker Different forum, and you can interact with him publicly or privately there if you like.

Well, thank you for checking out this video and commenting. I actually followed up with the winner, but he still hasn't started on the SE Reloaded Kit he won yet. I don't mean to be harsh, but I must admit that I was disappointed in that, especially because I did the Giveaway in the first place to spread awareness of the SE Reloaded project. I wanted that awareness to spread so more people would give it a try. Anyway, that's why I've not done another giveaway since. I tried to make it fair, and it was. But should I do another in the future, I believe I'll be a bit more selective. Picking folks who will do the projects rather than shelve them is a key consideration for me. When we actively use, repair and work on our vintage stuff, I think the hobby has meaning. But when we merely acquire and closet the stuff, letting it collect dust, we become little more than hoarders. Again, I don't mean to be too down on the winner, and hopefully he embarks on the project soon. I just want to encourage folks to remain active in the hobby, and when the time comes that is no longer possible, we ought to give or sell the stuff back to the community who will love and appreciate it. I therefore am excited to hear about your own interest in rebuilding an SE. I applaud your efforts and hope to hear more about your progress. Please consider joining us on TinkerDifferent, if you're not on there already: tinkerdifferent.com/forums/compact-macs.34/

With the Yen being 156 to US$1 right now, you absolutely should come to Japan soon. Your Dollars have more buying power now than they have in the last 38 years. It was about 1986 when the Yen was this weak. There's never been a better time to visit Japan. But I am not sure how long the weak Yen will last. Depends on how quickly they increase bank rates.

I prefer FRAM cards solely for the lack of battery, and It’s terribly unfortunate no one is still offering them today. At some point you will grow wary of replacing the battery. And it could be you may simply forget about it, and the battery will be left in there long after it is dead and then it will possibly leak. So not having a battery in the card is a big deal. It has nothing at all to do with MetaKernel.

I haven’t checked, but I would assume either direct from Matias or perhaps on AliExpress.

@@JDW- Thanks for your answer. As crazy as it might sound, there is nothing out there. Never again with Matias products.

@@chrisd997 Senior management at Matias should resign in shame for having put out such horrible keys. They sold known junk to us all, and even at the time when you could get replacement keys, the printing on them came off just as fast as it did with the original keys. It's really quite unbelievable.

@@JDW- I couldn't have describe it better than you just did!. Selling keyboards is their business but they "forget" to provide support on replacement keys. Something also funny is their Site, while searching for the holy grail (keys replacement) I checked their Site and all I can say it looks like it stuck into 2000s LOL.

@@chrisd997 Their website is basically a museum: matias.ca Modern websites morph their shape based on the window width or the screensize of the device you are using, but old websites like Matias are fixed in size. The fact they refuse to spend a little money to update their site only further explains the broken mentality in upper management at Matias. Their "leadership" hasn't the faintest idea what they're doing.

Thank you for your kind words. In short, you are asking about accelerators and Ethernet for the Macintosh SE, preferably which have a pass-through PDS connector. Finding accelerator cards for the SE can be difficult, and a lot of people who end up with an accelerator find it as a hidden bonus when they purchase an old SE. Typically, if you look for accelerators only on eBay, in those rare cases when they do appear for sale, the sellers are trying to milk you for as much cash as they possibly can get. Probably your best bet in finding an accelerator for a more reasonable price is to join a Facebook “marketplace group dedicated to vintage Macs and join the Tinker Different forum to post a “want to buy” message. While you search for a good accelerator, I need to mention that the majority of accelerators for compact Macs are for the SE/30, and sadly, those are not compatible with the SE. You also asked about an ethernet card, but honestly, it’s probably best to get a BlueSCSI V2 with a Pico W because it offers wireless connectivity to the Internet that is going to be about as fast as any 10BaseT ethernet card would be. The problem with connecting a Mac like an SE to the Internet is that it cannot display modern CSS. A workaround is something called Frog Find, which is basically an intelligent filter that grabs a webpage and then converts it into a format that older Macs can understand. Also, older Macs cannot understand HTTPS websites, which are the vast majority of websites these days. But frog find helps you deal with that too. And because frog find acts as a filter, even slow Macs like an SE can take advantage of it, although it would be mostly text based and not display graphics. One last thing I should mention pertains to accelerators for the SE. It’s very unfortunate but a fact that most accelerators for that machine don’t handle sound very well at all. The sound is distorted because the designers did not take audio into consideration. They simply accelerated everything and that messes up the sound. Back in the day, a lot of people with productivity apps wanted a faster machine and they didn’t tend to play games so it never was an issue. But most of us these days use older Macs for gaming quite a lot where audio matters. Some accelerators allow you to temporally disable the acceleration so that the audio sounds fine again, but that will run your SE at the stock 8MHz megahertz speed. I don’t even know if there is an accelerator for the SE that doesn’t have audio problems. DayStar an accelerators for the SE/30 don’t have those issues, but again they’re not compatible with the SE. I hope this information helps!

​@JDW- Indeed, this is exactly the information I was looking for. I already have an Asante MacCon SE in my possession, which I managed to get for a decent price as far as EPay is concerned😂. Ultimately, I do actually desire to use this machine for office work such as writing and basic research, which only needs to be text-based. In using my SE for writing, I have found its lack of distractions to be most enjoyable. The only blemish is a lack of snappiness, which can easily be remedied by said card. Thus, given my priorities, sound isn't the highest on the list. I do appreciate the heads up however, and will keep in mind this information.

I have no idea what you mean. If indeed the screen was upside down, I personally would return it for one that was not defective.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ndemga-ntNyvnHk.htmlsi=5TSsqVuqzon0CeZM

the 2.! g2...

Had I retained the stock motherboard, I too would be a techno-sadomasachist. That horrifically slow stock motherboard yields nothing but pain. It shocks me to the core when I run across Color Classic Purists who treat all upgrades with utter disdain. Moving to an LC575 motherboard was the best thing I could do for my CC, and I later overclocked it to 50MHz, making it blow past a Q840AV, yet in a much smaller package. Not everyone appreciates the smaller screen until you consider that we folks here in Japan have limited space. So getting something amazing in a tiny package is what we're always after. And once you do the VGA mod, you get 640x480 and can then run most games. Sure, everything is smaller on the screen, but consider how much space is required for a larger screen (especially a CRT, if you want to be period correct). So I agree that Apple released a really bad machine. The Color Classic II was better because the motherboard was fast enough to be usable, especially when you consider the stupid 10MB RAM cap was then gone. So while not everyone will appreciate the compact size of this little guy, it's upgradability is astounding. I've also done the stereo mod too, which makes it sound better overall. It's a fun machine to upgrade.

@@JDW- I apologize if I came across too harsh. I have now subscribed to your channel from here in Australia and as an Apple Macintosh user since 1984, I get a tad frustrated when Apple would try something maybe a tad too different. Great channel.

@@theaustralianconundrum Thank you for your kind words and for your subscription. I believe in honest opinions, so I greatly appreciate yours. I too can be harsh on Apple at times. My first computer was in 1984 when I was 13 - the Mac 128K. I've actually owned Macs exclusively through the years, never having owned a Windows PC. So believe me, I know the Apple screw-ups are many! We really do have some legitimate gripes. And by the way, I actually didn't like the look of the Color Classic until I actually owned one. It slowly grew on me (after I found the joys of swapping out that stock motherboard, of course).

@@JDW- I loved the look of the Colour Classic so I bought a couple. ;-) My father bought us our first Macintosh when they released in 1984 and I would have been 24 at the time and already left home. Yes. I am in my senior citizen stage as of 2024. lol. I am now loving BlueSCSI V2's and having a wonderful time collecting vintage hard drives and almost anything Apple however Australia was such a small market compared to global that it's a real challenge here to dig up some gold. Our youngest son recently returned from Japan and LOVED it! My wife's cousin married a lovely Japanese lady way back and he has been to Japan many many times. Good health and peace to you sir. And thank you for your kind reply.

@@theaustralianconundrum Living in Japan can be a bit challenging due to the language and cultural differences, but simply visiting the country is almost always a unique and enjoyable experience. My parents, who live in California, have visited us a couple times through the years and enjoyed it each time. You're still in your 60's, so I can honestly say it probably would prove to be a great trip for you, if you have the time and financial means to make the journey over here. There's never been a better time, now with the Yen being as weak as it is. I see today's exchange rate showing $1 AUS = ¥104. Back in Jan. 2020, $1 AUS = ¥76. So you have much more buying power today. Please know that I enjoyed our conversation today very much. Feel free to comment under my videos or email me directly anytime. My email is access on my channel page. KZfaq frustratingly has made it harder to find, but you simply click on the "Welcome!" text to the immediate right of my avatar circle, then scroll down in that popover content to find it. Until we speak again, I wish you well!

The video was made with the most common problem of "speaker crackle" in mind, which means the speaker emits audio that can be heard, but the audio is really bad. For anyone with speakers that do not work at all, in cases where you have no iPhone, Android Phone, tablet or other computer at your disposal, you can click the "CC" icon to enable English captions. Those are generated by KZfaq.

@@JDW- lol i was joking great video tho!! thank you i bought the parts going to replace both are busted now

Yes it does. In fact, it comes with a lot of adapters too, more than you will ever need. I have never found those fans to be obnoxious even when running at full speed so I never use the resistors they include.

I'm thinking of installing the Noctua fan in my Performa 6200CD and using the low noise resistor, but I'm wondering if the reduced air volume will cause issues. Nothing in the system generates a ton of heat especially since I've replaced the hard drive with an SSD, but I just don't know

Because I don’t have that machine and I’ve never tested it myself, anything I say with me little more than speculation. But I will speculate that your machine should be fine even using a resistor. However, I do not find that particular brand of fan to be noisy even one run at full speed, so I suggest you try full speed and see how it sounds and if you’re happy to live with it that way, you’re going to get the best air flow possible.

If you are questioning me about why the mindless leadership of KZfaq decided to eliminate the About tab, well, I'm afraid cannot answer that. The steps presented in my video still apply in May 2024, but because there is no About tab anymore (which bothers me A LOT!), you must instead go to the Channel Page and then click on the "Welcome ! >" text. It's hard to see and very non-intuitive, which is why it drives me crazy. But it works, and you scroll down in that "About" popover to see the email address, just as before. And if you don't see an email address, it means it wasn't added. Any further questions should be answered by my video. I watched my video again just now, and followed my own steps. As I said, only the About tab has been changed by KZfaq.

Whoops, didn’t mean to send to this video😐😐

@@Dinomanz0 Thank you for clarifying that you made a mistaken, but I appreciate your error because it reminded me I need to talk about KZfaq Leadership's foolishness. Eliminating the About tab was a really stupid move. I updated the text description with more info. Anyway, thank you! 👍

Paul, I am truly sorry for my delayed reply. I moved on May 25th, and I deliberately ignored most of my email until just now. Rest assured there are no mistakes. You simply misread the C21 label. C21 is the tiny 0.1µF ceramic capacitor which needs no replacing. The C24 marking is merely covered by the fan wires on your analog board. Lift the wires and you will see C24 printed directly above the electrolytic cap you need to swap out. And yes, C24 = C13 in terms of capacitance. The stock caps had different voltage ratings, but that doesn't matter on this board, which is why the same cap is used for C13 as C24. I hope this helps!

I later did buy a different graphics card, and I made a video about that at the following link, and I’m pleased to report it’s still working to this day in May 2024. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8qApqti36-1fac.html

@@JDW- fair enough

Sinceramente no lo sé porque no lo intenté.

Thank you for that important question! I updated the THINGS TO BUY section of the text description just now to add "Grounding Wrist Strap, Silicone Pad & Wall Socket Adapter" which you can find on Amazon. The pad is a different color than mine, but it is anti-static just the same. All you need is a 3-prong (grounded) wall socket outlet for the included Adapter to plug into. It only taps the Earth Ground pin in the wall socket, which grounds you and the pad. That way, all static electricity flows out of you and into the wrist strap or pad, which in turn goes to earth ground. It keeps your electronics safe from accidental zaps!

A motherboard doesn't have a switching power supply on it and therefore there is no worry about your new replacement capacitors having ESR that is "too low." So you can use "low ESR" replacement capacitors, if you like. However, "low ESR" tends to refer to electrolytic capacitors, not other capacitor types like Tantalum, Polymer Tantalum, Polymer Aluminum caps like OS-CON, or Ceramic. And if you replace all your electrolytics with more electrolytics, you will have to replace them again 20 to 25 years later. So when I recap vintage Macintosh motherboards like the SE/30 described in my video, I use capacitor types OTHER THAN electrolytics. And if you use SOLID Tantalum you must derate by 50%, and to know that you would need to know if some caps see 12V or not, and if you don't know, then your SOLID tantalum caps would all need to be rated 25V each to be safe. Or you could use Polymer Tantalum rated at 16V because they don't need as high a derating, but they are much more expensive. Or you could use OS-CON (my preferred cap these days for motherboards), because they can be rated at 16V too (or higher), and they are shaped like cans so they look stock (like electrolytics), and they have lower ESR than Solid or Polymer tantalum. You could use Ceramics, but those need to be rated at least 50V to avoid the DC bias effect where capacitance decreases according to applied voltage. I think OS-CON are better than Ceramics due to all the caveats of Ceramics. And so, when you understand all this, you can avoid any confusion about "coupling" or "decoupling" or "low ESR" or "general purpose" designations on Mouser, which again, tend to mainly describe fluid-filled electrolytics, rather than other capacitor types. Lastly, I don't use PCs or have experience recapping them, but it could be that your motherboard has large electrolytic capacitors on it which have such high capacitance that they absolutely must be replaced by capacitors of the same type, meaning, electrolytics. In that case, because it is a motherboard and not a switching power supply, what I said about ESR still holds true. You shouldn't have to worry about your replacement caps being too low ESR. So in that case, you can safely use "low ESR" electrolytic capacitors. It is only on some switching power supplies that you need to be careful with extremely low ESR caps because some power supplies want a Minimum ESR. But on a motherboard where there is no switching power supply, most all of the caps are "Decoupling" (aka "Bypass) capacitors that try to sustain voltage levels on motherboard chips so that nothing brings down the voltage on any chips, not even for a brief instant. And the lower the ESR, the faster those capacitors can respond to very brief sags in voltage. So what if there is a power supply on the motherboard? Well, I assume that would be something like a 5v to 3.3v down-converted or similar. And in the case, you would want to take care your replacement capacitors connected to that power supply aren't too low ESR. But if the capacitance is large, you would be replacing them with electrolytics, which don't have that low ESR even for caps which say "low ESR," at least not in comparison to OS-CON. So I think you probably would be fine using "low ESR" caps, if you like. When I replace caps in switching power supplies, there are many things I just don't know. I don't have a schematic. And I know in some cases ESR could be too low. So what I do is buy "general purpose" and "low ESR" and swap out the caps with my "low ESR" replacements and see if all is well. If all is well, I leave it like that. If it has issues (usually found by connecting the output to an Oscilloscope), then I can swap "general purpose" (higher ESR caps) in and out unil the problem is gone. If you don't have a scope, then recapping a switching power supply is more tricky. You would only know if your machine works or not, and you wouldn't know if power is clean or dirty because without a scope, you can't see any noise riding on your voltage output. A handheld meter won't show you that. But some scopes these days are pretty cheap, like the Rigol DHO804, which I purchased recently on AliExpress for only a few hundred Dollars, and since I use it a lot, that cash outlay was acceptable. Not worth it for only 1 recapping job though. I hope this helps.

@@JDW- Thanks for the reply. This helped a lot. I wasn't asking so much if I could use low ESR caps, but more if I should be using them and if so when do I use one or the other just looking at a board. This is because you can't always tell just be reading the information on the cap. It sounds like in my case for the Pentium 3 board I really can't go wrong using them and in some cases they may be needed.

The logic board is irrelevant to the Stereo Mod. If you watch my video, you will see me modify only the Analog Board, which is the same if you have the stock CC motherboard or an LC575 motherboard. So yes, the Stereo mod works for stock CC's too. That's why I didn't put LC575 or Mystic in the video title. With that said, the stock CC is a real pain to use. "Excruciating" is not overemphasizing how I personally feel when using the stock board. Believe me, it's nothing at all like using a 16MHz 68030 B&W Mac like the SE/30, which has a rather zippy and quite usable UI. Color makes that 16MHz '030 super slow on the stock CC. Plus, you're limited to only 10MB! I can upgrade my SE/30 to 128MB! Even if you only swap out the motherboard for an LC520, it's still much faster and more usable than the stock motherboard. The LC575 is faster still. I strongly recommend all CC owner's swap out the motherboard with something better. Trust me, you will overcome your desire for a "stock" system REAL fast when you have a better board in there. Apple should have never released the CC with a 16MHz CPU. The CC II (and LC550) was a vastly better machine in terms of speed and maximum RAM.

@@JDW- Thank you very much. I must have done it not properly then because stereo option is grayed out and not selectable in sound management. I'll check. I'd like to buy 575 logic board but they are not easy to find or quite expensive unfortunatelly.

@@cemc.852 The key to making the stereo mod work is the TDA7052A amplifier chip. If that chip is missing, bad, or install in reverse, then there won't be sound out of the new speaker. As to buying an LC575 board, most sellers of the board only are rip-off artists. I was advised by a friend here in Japan to just buy a super cheap LC575 computer that is basically falling apart (not hard to find). Usually they are almost orange they are so yellow, with plastics so brittle they almost fall apart just sitting stationary. But normally they have a good logic board. I was able to get an entire machine like that for less than $100 shipped from Yahoo Auctions Japan. Buyee makes purchasing via Yahoo Auctions easier for people outside Japan, but shipping charges make make such cost prohibitive. Even so, there are a lot of damaged LC575 machines in the US. One guy who lives in Europe bought an LC520 (same problem with brittle plastics) from Yahoo Auctions via Buyee and upon delivery to Buyee, the machine fell to pieces. He wrote to me asking if he could donate the parts to me, since he wanted the entire machine, not just parts inside. I mention that only to say that most of the LC500 series get damaged during shipping, even when carefully handled. And as a result, you can sometimes find deals on the entire machine. Meaning, a price usually less than the price of the motherboard only -- as strange as that sounds.

@@JDW- I checked, desoldered and resoldered everything again but no luck. Both speakers work, but in mono.

@@cemc.852 While I'm glad to hear you got sound out of both speakers, I am terribly sorry you are not getting true stereo. I never checked my stock CC motherboard because I already did the VGA mod which is not compatible with that motherboard. After reading your reply today, I did a little online research and found information that suggests the stock CC and some of the early LC series too had only mono sound: 68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/stereo-mod-for-color-classic.30391/#post-324984 Later in that 68kMLA thread there was a discussion about stereo, and it seems that "Tim S" embarked about doing that mod in order to get stereo, and while he doesn't specifically say "I got stereo," it seems that he had some success but the joy was reduced when he discovered the volume was lower than expected. Not sure if "Tim S" would reply to a PM in light of the fact he hasn't been active in that forum since 2018, but it's worth a shot. And I would recommend that even if you aren't yet a 68kMLA member. Because it seems there really aren't any better options out there. The only other alternative is to post in your preferred forum or FaceBook group, linking to that 68kMLA discussion and asking for the experiences of others. Who knows. Maybe someone else has tried it with their stock CC motherboard. But at some point you probably will want to replace that motherboard with a 575 (Mystic), and I know from personal experience that board works. They are just hard to find unless you buy the entire machine. Because this is an important topic and because you are the first person to discuss it, I am making your comment a pinned post for others to read.

275V is perfectly fine. And such is true when replacing other lower voltage capacitors too. Going to a higher voltage spec is fine, as it just shows it can handle even more voltage, if necessary, without harming the capacitor.

Unfortunately, I have no experience replacing those high voltage neon bulbs. Their part number might be 4PAK:WX-EGA2-0 as per this page: www.digikey.com/en/blog/dont-rule-out-the-neon-bulb-as-an-ac-power-on-indicator But clicking the link on that page yields a 404 on Digikey. This thread is discussing the two neon bulbs, and is fairly recent, so I would recommend you post your question there, as one of the participants may know a source and if the part number I provided is right or wrong: 68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/screen-stretch-and-neon-lights….46197/ I'm sorry I can't be of more help. But if you ultimately do find a solution, please feel free to post back here because I suspect someone in the future might read our dialog and benefit from that information.

@@JDW- I was able to use a replacement Neon lamp that I found on Amazon and it seems to be overall OK, the machine boots but there is some distortion on one of the top corners, got any idea what could be causing it? could it be the Ne2? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sKp4grpmq5PWl58.html

That has nothing to do with a neon lamp. It has everything to do with magnetic misalignment. Most likely, twisting one of the small, square magnets that surround the CRT yolk will resolve that problem. You would need to do that with the machine on, so I recommend wearing a rubber glove to avoid accidental shocks. But before you do that, make sure there are no other strong, non-stock magnets placed inside or near the Mac, as that will cause unexplainable distortions to the picture displayed on the CRT.

Best wishes on your recap today!

Não. Tive que substituir a placa gráfica. Usei uma AMD 6970M, como mostra meu vídeo aqui: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8qApqti36-1fac.htmlsi=nRpgPPJSc3rZpHOa