Glad they’re helping👍

Thanks!👍

Thanks Dale👊

Thank you!

Thanks!

Hey Gio, it really depends. If everything goes well I would say about 30-ish minutes. If not, then a couple of hours Things that can cause it to take longer: - Screws and nuts being rusted in place and making it a nightmare to undo something that's very basic (this boiler is quite old so this is common) - Leaks. There are a lot of connections you disturb when doing this repair so it's possible you might get one or two tiny leaks when you put it back together.

Thank you!

@@advancedboilertraining New found appreciation for what you do 🙂

Yes.

I have a video on my channel specifically for this problem, take a look at it 👍

@@advancedboilertraining Many thanks, have watch it - great instructions again ! I’ve learned a lot from you, from just two of you videos. - You’ve got a new subie :-)

No mate. That’ll be a sensor calling. If no demand for heating and hot water boiler is telling itself to fire.

@@dannyarcher cheers for the info mate, I had a feeling it might be something like that after I'd taken the diverter valve apart and replaced all the parts and the problem still there

@@stepheng180 unlikely but check the PRV and see if it’s wet. You might have a split in the burner. But tbh I’d suggest getting gas safe registered fitter around. Goodluck.

Oh no, it’s always concerning when a customer knows more than the engineer 😂. If the boiler does nothing when you run the hot tap the rubber diaphragm might have failed. Sometimes the rubber diaphragm splits in the pressure differential valve (front circle part the diverter) and so the pin doesn’t push out enough the activate the microswitch. That microswitch is what tells the boiler to activate. With that the key thing you want to see is that the front pin is coming out and activating that switch when you run the hot tap. (But obviously if you’re not gas safe I wouldn’t recommend you opening up the boiler 😉)

Thanks very much@@advancedboilertraining 🤗💜 No, it doesn't feel good to go through this experience! 😀 Paying £400 p.a. for service plan, 20years,, I should've bought life insurance instead.😥 Cheers for explanation of that. > So the rubber diaphragm is inside that round part of divertor. May not even be whole part needed. It sounds like something goes on like a valve moving when I call for HW, presumed that's the divertor switch cartridge moving to let the non existent hot water to the taps. 💫 That microswitch, is a chance it could be not getting power or something to tell boiler to go on? Thanks for explaining about the diaphragm. I can easily look, I've already taken down cover a few times, I won't touch any electrical parts. Is it something I would see moving on outside of round part ? Nowt else I can check? Water temp switch on front hasn't worked for years, nothing to do with anything its connected to? ~ The young man left safety notice without explaining it, something about a fuse being stuck somewhere.. ☆ Like you say in your video ~ the return pipe to heating would be getting hot if water going down to radiators, as the young man said is happening, but isn't. Its so nice of you to answer what must be a silky question. 🙏🏻 ♡ I feel I'm being set up to be forced into buying new boiler, he told me part may take 3weeks to find,, but they might not.🙀 Midnight too! Thanks again, have a good night. 🙂

@@suzycat2026 yeah unfortunately sometimes boilers can be headache. Yeah the micro switch could be faulty. Besides doing basic visual checks yourself, there’s not really much else you can do. You’ll need an engineer to come and test components etc etc. If you look on checkatrade I’m pretty sure you’ll find someone good

@@advancedboilertraining I really appreciate you taking time to explain this & thanks your advice. Yes, feel I need a second opinion with a visit from someone else. Guess I feel silly paying for this service plan, now their workers aren't trained so well. Cheers & have a fine weekend. Keep up the good work. 🙂

Usually you would have to change the washer inside. Over time the washers degrade and have to be replaced unfortunately

@@advancedboilertraining I changed the O ring and the diaphragm while I was at it yesterday but it was still leaking this morning, so I'm thinking it only could be the main body of the diverter valve side O ring that needs replacing 🤷‍♂️

Exactly the same as me, still heating my radiators when we run the hot tap. Let me know if you kind a fix... I'll do the same for you 👍

And me it would seem, did you guys ever get to the bottom of it?

For your initial issue of intermittent HW, it sounds like maybe your plate heat exchanger was blocked. The hot water couldn’t flow through the plate so the boiler would overheat and cut out (hence why your hot water was intermittent). It could also be the diverter letting heat through to the central heating hence why you have to slow the rate of the water down to get it hot (the slower the rate of the water, the more time it spends in the heat exchanger getting warmed up) But to do with your issue of no demand for hot water at all now, it’s sounds like your hot water micro switch is faulty or the rubber diagram has split (I have another video on this on my KZfaq channel. It’s a really easy repair) Hope that helps

Yeah first thing I would check is if the receiver is actually sending power to the boiler when it gives the flame symbol (Could be faulty)

@@advancedboilertraining thank you mate. There was no power going to the boiler from the receiver. I just put a loop in so heating can be turned on from the boiler at least. Any idea why the receiver would just stop working over night like that?

Did you ever get this sorted? I have the same issue!

@MarkHockin-dp9cz hi mate. Yes the new diverter valve I bought turned out to be defective. The spring on one of the plungers wasn't functioning correctly (same as the one I took out) and it was constantly going round the bypass heating the radiators up. Hope this helps

@@michaelvenus8539 thanks mate, truly appreciate the reply. Did you remove the valve again or sort it in situ? I'm assuming both pins were hitting the switches showing something was up with the valve?

@MarkHockin-dp9cz no worries mate. I took the valve back off again, once I'd had it off once, it was only 10mins to drain and get it back off again. Yes, both pins and microswitches were working as they should and there was no clear issue with the circuit board which led me back to the diverter valve. If you follow the bypass around to the back of the diverter and look inside the diverter from that side you will see a large rubber seat which is spring loaded it was that spring which was my issue. If you haven't bought a new one, I would take it all apart, clean it up and buy a replacement service kit which would be cheaper. Hope that helps mate. Good luck

Thanks again mate, I may have the same issue with my new diverter then sadly. Will try and pull it out today and have another look. Luckily I already have a service kit as I was going to recondition my old valve and keep it as a spare!