i love this upgrade demonstration and the relatively cheap and very efficient hammer crimper for heavy gauge wire. I knew about the more expensive tool but it was a discovery for me this cheap and efficient tool.

I did the same thing with my old f150. I replaced my 90 amp alternator with a 135 amp from a old explorer. It is so much better, before my truck would die at stoplights from the voltage drop.

You're right. When you put some more volts on the electric system, the Sparks on the sparkplugs are more powerful, the fuel pump works better, the fuel injector open an close with more precision. Everything works better

Two part advice. One Get the biggest capacity battery you can find. Two soldering your wires to the connectors will help. Also make sure your Idle RPM is set correctly. If you RPM is low you can smoke the alternator ! Using 8 gage wire to all accessories works alot better then stock. You will thank me later. Especially when the temperature get HOT !! And the most important, Good god man use a black wire for ground, or at least mark it as ground.

I'm a retired auto mechanic (due to several injuries) now selling Auto Parts and handing out advice. I cringe every time I see kids who install light kits and a "BOOM! BOOM!" stereo but don't upgrade the electrical system namely the alternator and battery! Then they wonder why their lights dim at stop lights and why they're batteries keep going dead! Worse yet, many times they tell me that their dash lights are flickering and or their gauges are going crazy and I find out that they didn't use butt splices are spade connectors to install their stereos and amps! All they do is twist wires together and hastily apply electrical tape!

I did the same upgrade to my 2000 s10. I searched what newer chevy had the 145amp model and ordered it on ebay. Helps a lot when you give someone a jump too.

Nice video and good camera work , but you never ever use red wire for negative.

i just did this 3 hours ago on my 90 c1500 5.7 w/ac. my powermaster 140 alternator (exact part number) came clocked in the wrong position from the factory (the power steering bracket bolt hole and the electrical plug position did not line up). you can send it back to swap if you have patience, lol. to re-clock you'll need a 1/4" standard socket and a thin wall 15/16 socket. if you don't have a thin wall 15/16 thin wall socket, which most do not, you can chuck an impact socket in a drill or impact gun and grind it down with a side grinder or a bench grinder until it fits into the pulley onto the 15/16 nut. use a piece of wood to hold the cooling fins and remove the pulley nut completely. next, remove the 3 bolts that hold the 2 main parts together. now, lightly pull the two halves apart until you can rotate them to the correct position. reinstall in reverse order. there is a lock washer on the pulley nut. the 3 small bolts could use some blue loctite or equivalent. powermaster needs to address this issue which is very common reading online reviews/ message boards and now my own experience. other than this, it seems very well built.

Avoid a potential fire. Wire loom and terminal boots are cheap. A nice layer of dielectric grease on all terminals, and corrosion will never be an issue. Go ahead and smear some on your chassis grounds, which could reduce the risk of some electrical gremlins. Using red wire for ground is disturbing, but it's your truck.

That is the most easily accessible alternator I've ever seen. That should be a 10 minute job. Unfortunately those idiots at Toyota decided that the alternator in my GX470 needed to be in the bottom of my can buried deep behind wires, cables and hoses. Took 3 hours to replace my alternator.

A similar gremlin to yours. And I just got my answer today. I've got a 91 GMC. 350 auto, 4x4... It's more of a half dead workhorse than anything. I turned it into a winter only plow truck. At MOST, the truck gets about 5-6 miles on it per year. New 90 amp alternator. Harbor Freight 2500 lb electric winch for the up and down of the plow. The new battery worked great the last half of the first year I put it in. I had to jump start it every time after that. My volt gauge dropped hard every time I went up or down with the plow winch. Trying to beat a dead horse, I decided to go full out, industrial strength charging system. The biggest, in warehouse alternator I could get was 140 amps. But, that alternator was the wrong bolt pattern. I would need the local auto electric shop to build the alternator that big. Then I was going to go dual batteries, along with the 140 amp alternator. I had been to 2 auto parts stores, to be handed the wrong alternator, at both places, before I went to the auto electric shop. Once I explained the electric winch setup on the plow, he asked how long I plowed for each time. About an hour each time. Never going over 10 mph. Almost simultaneously, 2 employees shook their heads. It wasn't going to work. Motors draw BIG amps. Low engine rpm is not sufficient enough to charge the battery back up. Putting a 140 amp alternator on won't help my case. They do make low rpm alternators, but they cost HUNDREDS of dollars. He said to go dual batteries, equal amp rating on them, running 2 gauge wire. Positive to positive. Negative to negative. It'll help starting. It'll help ease the draw of plowing. But...when I'm done plowing, to put the charger on it for 2-3 hours. I figure a float charger that's permanently attached should work. In your case, a dual battery will also help. Two fans blowing full bore, can suck a ton of power. But I would also check to see if you can gather a temp and relay switch setup. The fan comes on at certain temp and shuts off at a certain temp. Constant running of the fans will wear them out, as well as your alrernator. It's like a temp light coming on when it's hot. Except, instead of the light coming on, the power is routed to the fans to come on. Going down the road at 55-60, your fans should never be running. Even in 90 degree weather. I hope this helps...if you still have the truck and the problem.

I cringe seeing that Red wire being used for negative ground. At least wrap it in black tape. Did you measure the full load draw on your old alternator? Would be nice to know what kind of load it was seeing.

Enjoyed your vids. One question. Did you see any change in mpg with the electric fans and bigger alternator?

I have a OBS 1999 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 2wd with an OEM 105amp alternator. Replaced it with a 145amp alternator from a 2003 Cadillac Escalade. Cadillac alternator is a little larger but fits with plenty of wiggle room left over and no modifications were needed to install. A longer belt was needed due to the increased alternator size though. Stock belt was 4060960 New belt is 4060970

Hi, one thing you did not check before you bought this alternator is if your fans were wired correctly. The fans need to be wired in parallel, not series. This would make a difference.

Better spark, I'd say. You have more amperes available for everything, so everything should be brighter, peppier, colder, fans will blow that wonderful cold air right in your face! I'm envy you that! Great video again. Thx for the lessons!

The alternators case is ground, no need for the red grounded cable. Bad idea anyway. Good job on the fans, I was about to do that but ruled against that because of the extra amp draw.

140 amps would be a "major" upgrade for something like my 1977 C10 pickup that left the factory with a 63 amp alternator. It is NOT a "major" upgrade for something that had a 105 amp alternator originally. It's only a minor improvement at best, particularly when considering you've added another 60-80 amps of electrical load with those electric fans. It's also still a small case alternator and that 140 amps is a maximum cold rating. Once it gets hot, output will go down. A 160 or 200 amp Delco 28SI alternator could have been installed with only minor mounting modification and an adapter to connect to the original plug. It would have also the added bonus of substantially more amperage at idle, which is where small case alternators struggle the most. Hammer crimpers are junk(yes I have one), as is "battery cable" from the autoparts store. After using a hydraulic crimper, there is no comparison in the quality of the end product. Mine is rated at 16 tons and cost me less than $70 via amazon. Battery cable has a low strand count, and it's not very flexible as a result. It also doesn't carry current(amperage) all that well. Welding cable has many, many more strands, is far more flexible, and it is made to handle high current. It's a little more expensive, but well worth it. I'd also take a guess that within the next few years that new cable will need to be replaced since you didn't bother to use any heat shrink to seal the lug to cable joint. Even if your new alternator actually does produce 140 amps, running it through poor connections, crappy braided ground straps, and/or undersize cables will reduce it substantially and possibly result in a fire or other bad things. If you're going to do a job, do it RIGHT. Throw the factory cables and braided ground straps in the trash...then start fresh with good quality cable and sealed connections.

How nice. Great placement for removal. Frontier pro-4x is deep in the hood. A bit more challenge with the Frontier!

Red wire for negative ? Really ? Was it too difficult to do it the right way ?

great job, don't let these haters get under your skin. it's your truck.

What we do is to replace the original pully with a smaller one. Ofcourse with some minor modifications to the alternator itself. Saves a chunk of money and works as good.

Just run another positive along side the factory. Mixing and matching could just cause more confusion down the road.

Went from Stock ram 1500 alternator to a mechmen 370 amp go big 👍💪💪

You should really think about throwing some heat shrink of the wire converted from POS to neg. Makes it easy for someone to get mixed up while jumping it, gets expensive, ask me how I know.

nice upgrade. you are so lucky to be able to have a '95 we in the rust belt are jealous!

I went from a 110a alternator to a 200 and it sounded like I had twice the system. Un fucking real improvement. (also big 3)

There is a 250 amp alternator, should’ve used it instead. It was for the Diesel Tahoe but will bolt right up

red negative wire is a bad idea, should be black, or a strap ground.

A few things for novices watching this: 1. There is a square hole in the front of the Belt tensioner to accept a 1/2 drive lever bar or actual tensioner tool. Please use it, your knuckles will thank you. 2. When removing/installing serpentine belts, the first place to remove the belt from a pulley is a smooth pulley, not a grooved one. Going back on, do a smooth pulley last. It's just easier. 3. It's a terrible idea to use a red insulated cable for your Negative/Ground. Will it work, yes. Will somebody someday get them wrong?, almost a certainty. Terrible. Don't do that. 4. When you are tightening your cable back up to the battery and you have a connector like Jimmy's (I have the same one on my pickup), hold the battery side with an appropriate wrench and then tighten the nut. The threads in side the battery are lead and will strip really easy. It's just a miracle Jimmy didn't strip his. Screee, NO, just snug and a light tug. 5. Don't route your cables so that they rest on a radiator hose. The engine constantly vibrates and moves a good bit on a heavy load acceleration because of engine torque. The hole you are slowly wearing in the radiator hose will reveal it's self at the worst possible time. Bank on it. 6. The niffy crimping tool is great for a guy who uses them a lot at a stereo shop and doesn't mind charging you to do them over in a few years when it comes loose or gets clobbered up with corrosion. Solder it in so it is sealed. You can crimp it then solder it if you just gotta use that tool. Solder it. If it gets corrosion in there but still works it's still going to cause resistance. Sorry Jimmy, I admire your tenacity for getting in there and doing this but your inexperience really showed on this one.

I have a 1995 as well, same engine bay. I have had those flex fans for 15 years and they are still going strong. But if you want to keep your voltage at 14v even at an idle, pick up an overdrive pully for your alternator.

You can actually get a slight performance and mileage gains because it feeds the coil better and the gives you a stonger spark. It will also keeps your fuel pump from getting weak power at low rpms. Everything electronic will work better because of the mod. The extra power from going to electric fans from a mechanical fan can be between 7 and 12hp I know that sound like alot but it's been proven on engine dynos from multiple reliable sources. I know my s10 felt like I was tow g a boat when my mechanical fan cut on. It's a 4000+lbs zr2 s10 that really needed more than a 4.3L it should have came with a 4.8 or 5.3 like the full size trucks started getting in 98 (my zr2 is a 2000) it's got an aluminum L33 5.3 now. The L33 weighs basically the same as the iron 4.3L also.

I don't think the extra ground / negative wire between the alternator and the battery is really needed. The alternator is grounded solidly to the engine, and the battery is grounded to it too via the braided wire. But on the other hand it doesn't harm either.

Would have been nice to see you tape the negative wire Black for identification in the future.

After visiting 2 auto parts stores and receiving the wrong 140 amp alternator both times, I should clarify the error of those alternators. The mounting pattern for the alternator I have (91 GMC 5.7 A/C 4X4) does not correspond with the mounting pattern of the alternators their (parts stores) computers were telling them was a direct fit. The 2 bigger bolts on mine (15mm) are at a 6 and 2 position (both on front half of casing), while the pattern on their (alleged) match was at a 12 and 6 position. Both on front half of the casing. I couldn't clock it to fit. I could have the existing alternator built up to 140 amp output. But alternators need higher rpm to put out full potential. Electric motors gobble juice. At slow speed, low rpm snow plowing, the 140 amp alternator is wasted effort and money. I'm just going with dual batteries and hooking a permanent float charger onto it, for while I'm not plowing. Glad you found a suitable fix to your problem.

You got a (winner),great job

I have a Powermaster 160 on my 87 V20 4x4 Diesel Burb. Love it. Powermaster told me they soon will have a 250 ? I am ready to add a bunch of Hells offroad lights and will need more power.

Unfused battery cable needs double insulation. Plastic wire channel or something. Could start fire without if soft insulation gets chafed and touches ground.

Did you have to get a smaller belt?

That crimper is awesome

I feel a great pick up in doing this to my 01. And yes mine drop down to about 12v also. Great vid

very good content and upgrades in all your videos about the suburban. THANK YOU !

Dual post battery allows for more connections. A great way to add extra grounding.

You made it look easy Jimmy!

Can you run your old and new alternator at the same time? Asking cause I been wanting to run another alternator and battery on my Tahoe in the winter time so that I can run my snow plow equipment off one and my vehicle and accessories off the other one . Any information would be appreciated

nice job I like it hey Jimmy I have a 1994 Z71 1500 pickup one thing I noticed that I think you should do to improve your overall efficiency and believe me it works remove that cold air intake on your air cleaner and flip the cover upside down and use the biggest filter you can get it makes so much more sense that way your engine intakes air from all the way around the air cleaner instead of just running air through the one spot where the intake Cold Air Supply feeds the filter the so-called Cold Air Supply comes from your Fender which is hot and it's a stupid setup just remove it and flip your air cleaner cover and go with the biggest filter you can get in there.. by the way I did this like the second year I own my truck and I now have 450000 miles on the original untouched engine in the original untouched transmission I get phenomenal mileage for a four wheel drive truck especially considering it's a 1994 with a 350....

My 2018 Promater City van's OEM alternator is 160a has gone bad and only putting out 12.5v. There is a lot of power demand on my van. I run a giant battery 155ah AGM starter battery and 2000 watt inverter + 12v fans and LED lights and other appliances overnight. I want to put in a 320a after market high amp alternator, but worry about the computer and affecting gas mileage. Should worry the battery fuse to my alternator is only 150a. Any pully or adapter changes if manuf claims it will fit?

I used the link, and it says doesn’t fit 98 gmc Sierra k1500 is that a typo

Awesome videos as always... question did you have to change the belt to a different size or the stock belt will work I'm thinking of making this switch before I add an amp and sub to my 93 Chevy c1500 5.7 V8

Don't trust the dash gage. Allot of times 12 on the dash gage will actually be 14 volts. I think, because the system is a 12 volt system the factory uses 12 as the "it's working properly" voltage. Really the voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5. for proper factory charging. What's interesting, I learned this reading solar stuff, is that different batteries should be charged at different voltages like if they are standard, gel, agm to get the best performance and longevity out of the battery. Batteries should also be charged at different voltages for different temperatures. Maybe there should be some sort of adjustment and sensor input into the voltage regulator for this. Anybody know if there is anything like this in the auto world?

the delco design alternator are notorious for not charge at idle speed, try the same thing with a Bosch or japanese alternator and there is a big difference at idle

105 to 140. Major????

I have been a ASE certified Master Auto Mechanic for years that's exactly the way you need YOUR car s alternator when your car has two Electric fans .

good job all you need now is to change the battery

I got a 98 Tahoe I wanna do this with. Thanks!

Power master is the only way to go! Definitely if you live in hell! AKA Las Vegas Heat. Lol

Would I have to redo both wires or just the first one that’s connected and what wire would you recommend?

I have a 140 amp alternator on my 302 v8 ford motor i blew my 70 amp fuse do you know what my have caused it? Is my fuse to small

So pretty much if you change the wire gauge to thicker wire less resistance more amps

The one thing different I would have done is paint the 6 gauge ground wire black on your application, just for reference purposes.

Is the power wire on a fuse or circuit breaker in the event of the current shooting up due to a short of some sort? I would at the very least is put a 140/150 amp circuit breaker or fuse inline and insulate the new ground wire or wrap it in a jacket other then the factor insulator.

I thought name plate alternator Amps was only seen when cold. 30% loss being normal when alternator is hot

Hey I know this is an older video. Was this before the injector upgrade.

No damage would be done if I upgrade the alternator from a 105 to a 140 would there? No other changes at all, no additional equipment, no additional draws...?

dude where did you get that stainless top radiator panel? I need one!

Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀

I have stock alternator an at stop light or whatever my volts never dropped below 14

DC power, Singer or MechMan alternator's you can get from 175 amp all the way up to 300 amp for racing applications and car audio and I would definitely be doing 0 gauge (big 3) upgrade

I have the 1994 suburban 1500 4x4 I'm doing the same things with the fans. Can you give me the part number so I can get it exactly 💯.

Great video clean install

Cleaning the ground connections is good. Would a little electrician's grease be a good thing while you're at it? Enjoy your videos. Many thanks

Better get digital volts/amp meter for acurate reading & wrap 6guage wire to black for future misconfusing...

mechman makes the best alternator! they have 350amps one and even at idle it can generate full power! (if your car does not stalls) many cars have electronic throttle and computer adjust idleing so if you pull some load on the engine it will still maintain the idleing rpm! my car does that when the ac kicks on engine RPM drops for a second then it gets up to 1000rpm from 800rpm idle .... my old car has throttle cable and it did not have any rpm adjust ment you can only set the idle rpm with a screw......

If you upgrade the alternator do you need to upgrade the battery right away or can you just keep the factory batt ?

what is the effect upgrading the amps of alternator and how they affect the battery ?

Great video. Thanks!

Hey Jimmy, I just did the same thing to my 89 Chevy 350 and the voltage drop is worse than before I upgraded..any ideas?!

positive and negative should be same gauge.

I like how you hammered the wire crimper on a rubber mat. Also, still think the crimper on my lineman's pliers will do just fine.

G,Day how do you guys work with plastic gloves on its like having a show with a rain coat on ,I need the feel of the parts cheers Mate .

Dude..... come on.. Mark your ground!!!

You put this allt in 4 years ago. Any updates?

Did you have to modify the alternator at all to fit the housing? I have a 1995 Tahoe and want to do the exact same thing.

Will this fit a 1989 Chevy tbi with out reclocking? I have the back bracket that goes by the header. Not sure what one to get

Cheers mate! Great video!

Anybody knows off I got a question for you guysI need help for Alternator I own a 2010 Chevy Tahoe still has the old Alternator I run 2 Amp Every time a pump the The volume my amp shuts off

engine computer and the ignition coil are happier due to adequate voltage and stable regulation. it probably did feel better. ;-) the strap grounds are way important. engine to frame....engine to body. not engine to frame to body.

Did you say Vegas Jimmy? Bigger three core radiator and a 180 dg. Thermo.

Where did you find the 4 and 6 gauge wire, the copper wire ends and that anvil?

Dude, I have a '95 chevy p/u that is white with a blue interior. Hard to find blue floor mats and seat covers. PLEASE paint that red ground wire black or replace it with a black wire. You are asking for trouble. You know it's a ground but if someone has to work on it besides you they might hook it to pos. and you will be screwed. I like to crimp, solder and then install shrink tubing to keep out dirt and moisture. Take care.

Nice I have a lot of nerdy family members in my truck all the time and asses in every seat I would love to change mine out

i like your vídeos broo because i have a chevy 95 with the same problem in the alternator

whatabout the voltage regulator? Does this alternator need a better voltage regulator?

What if I wanna keep my 5.7 alternator stock with thicker cable? Would that improve anything?

Every time great when they worked on clean cars with gloves :)

I also live LV how do I get in touch to have do some work on my 98 2Dr Tahoe?

Power and ground should always be the same size

db electrical on ebay has 140 a also they work just fine and alot cheaper,also soldering that terminal would be best

Another no-no for a red ground wire. When it comes to electrical grounds, you can never have enough capacity which is why you'll see ground straps all over the vehicle. JMHO.

Please I want alternator 200 amp I have the same car but the engine 2500 where I can to buy it