I now have molds ready-to-go here: manabouttools.com/product-category/abs-plastic-molds/

the best thing about this video is you show how to make aircrete in an hour without first spending days building one of those damn foam machines everyone else uses. THANK YOU!

Dude talked about concrete for garden boxes for almost 19 minutes and I watched and heard every second of it.

i would use the best of two worlds, built the first one out of concrete, then the top three or two out of air-crete this way your base is solid as strong and withstands the mowing!

The foam making alone was worth the watching!

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it before but you can use recycled Styrofoam (Insulation board or that Styrofoam packing that comes with most small appliances; ground up into little pea sized bits) as an additive to your concrete to lighten it without losing strength. We have been doing this for years when making Halloween decorations. Great for Pillars, Tombstones and other yard decor that needs to survive the elements (Canada)

I would like to compliment MAN about TOOLS for how well the videos are edited. I've done videos myself and then got a job doing them professionally. Top notch job!

Nice! Notes on aircrete: - I just wrap a stainless steel scrub pad around the tines of the paddle mixer, it flails out and distributes more surface area per unit of force to break air into the soap solution. - For the soap solution itself I've gotten to just using a teaspoon of SLSA powder to 3 pints of hot water to make a 5 gallon bucket full of foam. - To make the panel face more durable use a portland and sand mix to make a thin film (like a finish coat of stucco [1 part cement to 1 1/2 - 3 parts sand]) to coat the face of the mold first then pour in the aircrete. -You can also add sand, vermiculite, or charcoal fines to the aircrete mix. - Charcoal is a good lightweight aggregate on its own as well (not the briquettes obviously, but the naturally structured kind you make in a retort). - Aircrete is stronger when it is skinned on both sides. Think of it like the aerated gypsum fill in a panel of drywall. As long as the paper is there it's fairly strong, but once you cut the surface it snaps easily. - Landscape fabric, window screen, agribon, housewrap or other durable materials with textured or adsorbent surfaces can be used to face each side or be buried near the face just below a finish layer of cement to create tensile reinforcement and prevent bowing. You can also recycle some styrofoam by grinding up cups, plates and packaging material and using the stryofoam frass in place of the soap foam. It creates a mixture that can be vibrated and packed but weighs roughly the same. I'm enjoying the videos, keep them coming.

In this video, you're not only a gardener, a mason, but also a scientist. Keep doing what you're doing. Thanks for sharing. Good stuff.

You can add outdoor latex paint in place of half the water to any concrete mixture to give a unique finished texture and color. It seems to last just fine in the weather as well but I've only had my test pieces outside for 6 years so I've got 4 more years of weathering to finish my tests. In this aircrete I imagine the latex would offer some flexibility and maybe even a little strength but it will be next spring before I can even get around to starting that project. Thank you so much for these videos.

Love the reciprocating saw (no blade) idea.

Now that's a cliffhanger ending. Tune in next time. I'm enjoying watching the progress, refining the process and improving the product. Thanks for sharing.

Now I learned something, at the age of 74. Mostly from the cements below. Thank you folks.

You can put a concrete leveler finish over the panels that will make them as durable on the surface as regular concrete.

The amount of details you put in the videos you upload is beyond imaginable and I learn a lot from your videos. KZfaq recommended you to me, and I'm glad! Concrete really is a wonderful material, I think it's one of the best to use in the garden as far as inert materials go (impregnated wood can have some toxic chemicals I wouldn't want near my garden). Please keep up the good work, your videos are really helpful and motivate me to go out and build something myself. Thank you!

You found the right balance in your presentation. It was interesting and informative all the way. I was never bored and never felt the need to speed up any part of it. Thank you for sharing this with the world.

Wow, at 17:24 that's exactly what I wanted to know about aircrete. Thank you for saving me time and resources. I'll continue searching for just the right material. Excellent video, thumbs UP! Thank YOU!

As someone who has worked with concrete and mortar for over 46 years, may I suggest decreasing the amount of water and substantially increasing the amount of glass fibers to increase overall strength, increase the surface strength, and decrease bowing and cracking?

Ken! It wasn't boring like watching paint dry! I have been bingeing your Concrete Garden Boxes videos (albeit on double speed...). They are great!!! Please keep making quality content like this :)

I appreciate the knowledge you've shared with us, good to know the practicality and limitations of these options!

Many thanks to you and to Harry. I'm preparing to build my own house by your and Harry's methods. Wish you a great life and jobs. Love from Türkiye

Watching paint dry? This was fascinating to watch you thoroughly test and improve your original design, especially seeing the weight differences and durability.

Very cool! Vermiculite is indeed expanded mica and is used in potting media to retain moisture and provides air space. There is also larger sized vermiculite, used for packing, but not usually available through big box stores (seen through Uline). I agree with another commenter that perlite might be a better option as it is used mostly to provide air space in planting media and is still very lightweight. Somewhat like the lava rock, except smaller and lighter. I hope you will try some of the aircrete suggestions too; I am very curious to see how those compare with this version. Thanks again for doing all these tests and providing details on the components for each. Definitely more interesting that watching paint dry - I didn’t even realize the video was 19 minutes!

Am Italian... Watching concrete being mixed is in the blood. Thanks for the informative video. Have always wondered about a more simple way to make aircrete. Shall now move to the next video. Love the practical design of your forms in making attachment simple. Thanks again

God Bless you, and your parents as well for bringing up such a nice person.

I trained as a geologist, worked for a while as a cement finisher, and have a soft spot for some Brutalist architecture (which your garden boxes remind me of). I loved this! I'm just hoping you add some coloured hardener to your future experiments ;)

Our city’s botanical garden uses peat moss to make their concrete planters really light yet durable.

Falling asleep wasn't a problem because of how you explain it as you go! Love your videos please keep them coming.

Thank you for your testing it really saves the rest of us Di-yrs i lot of headaches.

Awsome job. Very well presented. Bring on part 4. 👍

Not boring at all. I really appreciate your detailed explanations

you made my day, I suggested the aircrete (among others), I am a stroke survivor and ill appreciate the lightness,,,,,thank you sir!!

You might try an additional "submerged" curing step after removing from the form. Concrete crystallizes/cures slowly over a period of days/weeks/months/years, and the presence of water positively affects the process. It's possible that your aircrete panels simply dried out faster than the other ones due to additional surface area, affecting the cure.

Your riveting shows are very therapeutic. No way anxiety could possibly interfere. :)

Great video! You've made life easier for hundreds of thousands of us. Thanks!

Gotta say, this is one of the better channels on KZfaq. You good sir are now in my top 3

Great work - I would like to see you use these methods to make some large planter pots. My motivation is I have a 'mobile garden' in large pots on wheels so I can move them about to clean the underlying pavers and make the best of the seasonal sun (or shade on hot days). Ideally, I would like to build the castors into the pots somehow. I'm thinking the perlite mix with reinforcing may be best.

I have done light weight block using vermiculite If you pre wet vermiculite and drain excess water before mixing, it works very well. I have even achieved 50 % weight reduction

Great video. Finally someone who provides the ingredient ratios.

This video about lithweight concrete was what I've been lookin for since a year ago. Thank you very much.

maybe try PERLITE (expanded volcanic rock) or LECA pebbles (expanded clay)

You should try a perlite mix. It's used as a refractory in diy forges and pizza ovens. Finding a recipe on line shouldn't be a problem.

I want to thank you for making this video! I learned that you can use a swazall without a blade as a concrete vibrator and was happy to see it worked as well as it did. However I think you forgot to put sand in the aircrete mix and was surprised it worked so well without it!!!

Thank you for a very interesting video. I found your channel while looking for information on aircrete and foamcrete and have been bingeing ever since. Keep up the great videos and can't hardly wait to see episode #4.

Way more interesting than watching paint dry. Well done and well paced. Thanks Manabouttools

Not boring at all! Love this series and appreciate all the time you’re putting into it. Looking forward to next episode! Thank you

Love it! No worries I watch it on x2 speed and I can follow along just fine.

I've watched this same video 2 years ago...now that I'm building a garden I'm glad I can look back and use your technique. Thankyou for making my yard look very professional.

Pumice may work better than perlite. Panels can be used to build a fruit tree box. Removing the panels every few years to prune the roots can extend it's life

ACTUALLY Fascinating :: you have taken a useful and interesting project/product and turned it into an exploration into processes and materials that has uses far beyond the initial and obvious. You are to be congratulated on great and thoughtful work. . . . . See U later !

Thanks Kent, great video, looking forward to the next one.

You answered one of my main questions with air crete; thanks...

Pretty darn cool how you keep working on improvements for these. Nice work, great results.

The lack of strength on thinner pieces is why I'm experimenting with graphene as a reinforcing additive. And you could also improve the outside facing surface by mixing up a painting hard facing slurry to coat the inside of the mold like a mortar mix with the fibers then fill it with the aircrete mix. That should solve the surface softness. As for the curving while curing I haven't personally experienced that but I add durabond 20 joint compound to my aircrete mix. It helps the aircrete set faster, keeps the bubbles from coalescing if you're using shampoo and helps reduce slump.

Great series - thanks for doing all the tests...

Wow, great video! Great information! And very cost effective and doable.

when part 4 is coming? can't wait. I am ready to make some.

Great video and on a project i am planning to do, i did aircrete side walks around the house , with 3 parts foam, 2 parts sand 1 part cement, they hold up well to foot traffic , but did gough from my lawnmower deck and the 2 places someone mistakenly hit with a car tire it cracked .

Thanks for doing these experiments 👍

Im still cant understand those dislikes. 10/10 to this video. Thnx so much for your time. Best regard from Argentina

Oh, I have been waiting for this episode -- lets see the verdict :)

Hydraulic cement will work better also leave them in the forms for 5 days this should help the flexing and as soon as you take them out cure them with a sealant like tile sealer or better yet concrete cure this should do the trick I'm going to try your vermiculite panels and see how they work thanks for the video and I do not find it like watching the paint dry can't wait for part 4

You are amazing! Thank you so much for this series of videos!

Great study! Impressive job! Thanks, Man About Tools.

Don't use Portland cement. Use hydraulic cement it is a lot better for durable air Crete construction.

You have to think of cement itself as being glue. It has little strength on it's own. Aggregate (well graded) is what gives concrete it's strength and durability. Blending cement with fine sand (mortar sand) and even using fly-ash or silica fume will greatly improve your aircrete's strength.

Incredible video. So much valuable information. I would like to try the vermiculite mix for some of my garden projects. Looking forward to your 4th part. Thanks.

Amazing! You helped me make my decision on custom pillar caps.

Great video. Appreciate your experiment and findings. As you know vermiculite absorbs water so it absorbs the cement slurry. If you used perlite.. which does not absorb water the same as vermiculite does you may find it better than vermiculite. I use perlite in my hypertufa mix for lighter weight. Best wishes.

Awesome video! Sure wish the Aircrete was more durable looks wicked light. What if you used perlite instead of vermiculite that would make lighter.

I loved it, as well the clarity for understanding direction.

JUST FINDING THIS VIDEO. NEVER HEARD OF AIRCRETE,WENT ONLINE,THERE WAS THIS VIDEO!! GREAT INFO! TY!

The red material that you called lava rock is not rock at all, it is called cinders and it is foamed volcanic glass, the red color is an iron contaminate, it come in three colors, red, black and white, the white being called pumice and most commonly seen as a bird accessory that floats on water, crushed lava rock is very heavy. Very informative.

Could you do a known strong mix but add a pipe into the large area of the panel?

very informative! and well explained! thank you very much for trying all the options!

One of the best how to videos on UTube! Thanks!

Man, I am loving this series. I have made a more primitive version of this mold casting system, and I can say it works well. I have several walls now, but am very interested in this low weight idea. So very clever. I have heard good things on Vermiculite. I will try that myself. Thank you for the ideas, and processes. Very fun.

Great video. Have you considered trying to use a Styrofoam panel in the center, with wire reinforcing on each side, surrounded with a thin shell of concrete?

Using the reciprocating saw without a blade in place of an agitating table makes this a better video than the others I've watched at less than 3:30 in!

Thanks for this video. Very useful, clear instructions.

Thanks for sharing your ideas. Why not use pearlite & 1 can of shaving cream instead of lava rock?

Excellent! I agree that the Vermiculite would be superior but wondered if getting a pulverized lava rock would have some benefits for mixing and smoothness ..... can't wait to see part 4!

These videos are excellent. Thank you!

Thanks for sharing. Nicely done

I love this series! The whole system design is so impressive - I can't wait to make my own! For me, I see them as a great durable, non-permanent solution for edging between my lawn and planting beds. Thanks for doing all the tedious R&D for us!

Great video, excellent explanation & communication. Now, to improve your results. 1. Don't know if you did in the previous videos, but spray form release or even diesel on your boxes for easier removal and for extended life. Better yet use melamine with the white part being the area that meets the concrete. Melamine produces fantastic results if you use it in conjunction with point #2 below. 2. Mix and BRUSH on a coat of a concrete patching compound on to the sides and bottom of your form boxes (don't use the fiber in the patching compound). Make sure to get in the corners really good and you only need it to be about 1/16 of an inch thick but basically if you brush it on and don't see the form peeking through you are good. Then once it sets up, but before it dries, pour in your concrete mix and finish as usual. Just make sure the compound has a fine sand. Quikrete's Architectual finish is one of the best options (paints & stains real good), or their standard Concrete Patching Compound, even their Vinyl Concrete Patcher (won't stain paint will peel off eventually). Personally, I apply some oil to a rag and wipe it on the forms beforehand as patching compounds tend to adhere really good. What this does is it produces a smooth, dense, veneer with a very nice finish, free of voids, but since you are pouring in your concrete before it dries you end up with a monolithic structure. 3. If you are using fiber, never mix it in a wheelbarrow with a shovel. The fiber has to be broken up into almost individual strands, and a shovel doesn't produce near enough agitation to break up the clumps. You can break it up by placing your sand and the fiber in a bucket and using your drill with a mixing paddle attachment and drilling them dry until you see the fiber evenly dispersed and broken up into individual strands. If you're having a hard time you can add your water and that will help. Alternatively, use a small mortar mixer (drum type) to mix your concrete with the fiber, just make sure to let it mix for about 10 minutes to allow the mixing action to break up the fiber. The mortar mix won't work for the Aircrete though. 4. The reason for most of your cracks is too much water in your mix. Use a water reducer or superplastisizer in your mix. Fritz-pac makes all kinds. Or just use less water, since you brushed on the patching compound you don't need too worry to much about flowability, and getting a smooth finish on the top of the form, which is the backside of the planter wall, isn't as important as reducing cracks. 5. Add a bit of acrylic concrete bonder to your concrete mix. This will help it bond better to the patching compound, or mix it 50/50 with water and put it in a sprayer or spray bottle and spray the patching compound after you have brushed it on the box. Keep it up! I just subscribed.

Thank you for all the test!

Ken your videos are very interesting and informative. When I make my raised bed garden will definitely use your videos as a guide to make them of concrete,.

Just a suggestion would be to try perlite instead of vermiculite. Perlite is white and doesn't absorb water.

No idea about the warping, but for durability you could coat first with a cement slurry to smooth the surface, then coat with a concrete sealer. Not sure how hard those sealers get, but they make kitchen counters that way.

Great video and easy to listen and understand, great tests and explanations!!!!! 110% effort achieved

Subbed at 1.30. Impressed. Thank you for sharing your accumulated wisdom.

I've noticed alot of good suggestions on here already, but one I haven't seen is a mix called 'hypertufa'. It is becoming more and more popular with plant pot and yard art makers. It uses Portland cement, peat moss and either perlite or vermiculite. Perlite if you want more air flow or vermiculite if you want more water holding capability. Hypertufa is much lighter than straight cement, lasts for years and years (10 or more at least) and winters even in Canada with no problems. I don't know how well it would handle weed-whacking, but people even make garden rocks out of it, so I assume (yea, I know) it would work good. I've seen suggestions for pouring a cement facing first or using hydraulic cement (I don't know what that is). What might also work is to make the bottom row face, only the ones which would be taking a beating, out of the lightest mix that could handle the trimmer blades and mower wheels. All the higher levels could be the lightest mix, aircrete if you can find a way to keep it structurally sound. Just some thoughts and a suggestion for trying hypertufa. I hope I made sense to you. Thanks for reading thru all this. God bless and have a great weekend! 😎👍😃

I've really wanted to try this for a while! (get rid of my wooden garden beds). Have you ever tried silicon molds for you concrete so they last longer? Would love to see a video on that

I just saw this video in my recommended and due to a bit of ocd I had to start at part 1. So I just watched all 3 back to back and didn't fall asleep. Great series since I have some planter boxes in my backyard that my grandfather built in the very early 60's that really need rebuilding. I think I might just give this a try. Keep up the good work.

I'll allow the sandals with socks because I did not know about aircrete until now. Thanks for the great video!

The updated Aircrete panel mix used by Honey Do Carpenter also contains Perlite /(not vermiculite) Hydrated lime /J-Lube .I bought the 3 recipes from him but it would be unfair to publish the exact ratios as this is his payback for research. He also uses Rabbit wire mesh not mini rebars. This mix produces lovely panels .

Concrete shrinks and cracks because of too much water in the mix, drying too fast or not enough cement. You also need more fiber-mesh in the mix. Dry it up, add more fiber-mesh, and more concrete.

Great video by the way! I love all things concrete and gardening!

Wonderful testing !! , Thank you , good job !!!