+Andrew “Ian” MacDougall: I see what you did there, sir!

+Preston Thompson First off, thank you very very much for your donation! More videos ARE forthcoming, but right now I'm working on a publication detailing so MUCH more than what I get to cover in these videos. The throatless shear is a B2 Beverly Shear. The Harbor Freight one has an issue with the blades cracking and frankly I have LOVED my shear the moment I first used it. However, for starting out, you can get by very well with an electric jigsaw fitted with a metal cutting blade. Here's a (hopefully) helpful list of some starting tools you'll need: -vise -jigsaw w/ metal cutting blades -ball-pien hammers (multiple sizes) -basic raising hammer (can be found at riogrande.com) -large weighted 3 or 4 lb. rawhide mallet (I got mine on ebay) -wooden stump (or construct one out of bolted together wood planks) -a steel anvil (I've used a refinished Harbor Freight one for years) -3" dia. ball stake (ironmongerarmory.com/tools) -electric drill -metal files (multiple shapes and sizes) -mounted polishing motor with spindle attachments -aluminum oxide 7" sanding disks (various grits) -angle grinder -buffing wheel & compound This will get you started, but it's by no means the end-all to your journey ;-).

¡Me alegro de haber podido ayudar!

+Markus Berg You did an outstanding job! Keep up the amazing work and have fun with it! Work on learning how to refine your lines and make them a little sharper. As you learn what steel can do under the hammer, you'll be able to push the material further to make it go exactly where you want. This is seriously an impressive helmet for a first-timer!

Markus Berg you must be freakin kiddin me you are a beginner and you made this???? this is even freakin better than what royal oak armory does unbelievable...

Thanks you guys, i really appreciate it!

I'm hoping to get part 2 finished either today or tomorrow :-).

That is a simple question with a very complex answer. Funny enough, I'm writing a book about beginning armouring right now and a realistic list of tools to get started can seem daunting, but here's the breakdown: $100 Medium Bench Vise $40 Jigsaw with a metal cutting blade $200 Oxyacetylene torch setup $300 ea. Gas tanks (oxygen & acetylene) $5 ea. Ball-pien hammers (multiple sizes) $20 Basic raising hammer $20 Weighted rawhide mallet FREE Large wooden stump $75 ea. Dishing forms $100 Basic 100 lb. anvil $60 3” diameter ball stake $50 Corded electric drill and drill bits $10 Jeweler’s saw and blades $5 ea. Metal files (assorted) $5/sheet Sand paper (assorted) $100 Electric polishing motor $8 ea. 6” stiff polishing wheels $8 ea. 6” loose polishing wheels $3 ea. Aluminum oxide sanding disks (various grits) $5 ea. Polishing compounds $3 Heat-resistant black paint $20 Micro-crystaline wax $3.25/lb. Sheet steel 2’x2’ assorted gauges $7.25/lb. Steel rivets (assorted sizes) $100-$200 Misc. tools (pliers, vise grips, nuts, bolts, markers, pencils, compasses, tape, rulers, dowel rods, lumber...etc.)

+Parker Brown wow thanks for all the thorough information! definitely will look at picking up your book when you finish. I know it takes a lot of time and commitment and trial and error to get finished product. your incredibly talented and thanks for replying again.

Don't let fear of the unknown stop you ;-).

I use 16 ga. mild steel. I'm glad that the videos have been helpful and inspirational:-).

+Misanthropy www.amazon.co.uk/Furry-Baby/dp/B00UJU9IR2

You're very welcome. Happy hammering!

I'm very sorry, but I do not have all of that information.

Rusteythemanify, It can certainly be done, but you can achieve similar slower results with a handheld MAPP gas torch. They're affordable and can be found at most hardware stores :-).

thank you for this helpful info. :P

Thank you! Just at the end of this very video series, I seriously injured my right hand. Combined with the fact that I've moved twice, have been rebuilding my shop space, AND started a full-time job at Colonial Williamsburg..... AND have been using ALL my spare time writing a armour tutorial book series, I've had very little time to devote to new videos :-/. But thank you for your concern!

Parker Brown Oh, well that's understandable. So when is the book coming out, sounds like it should be good? Anyway good luck with what you're doing and hope you eventually find time to perhaps make another great video.

+Dani Nyisztor The track is from Simon Schama's 1999 series, A History of Britain. The track is "St. Godfrick's Song" by John Harle.

Thank you. Sometimes I can be a little obsessive. What you don't see on camera is me standing and staring at the piece for 5, 10, 15 minutes visualizing in my head what needs to be done next. I don't think people want to see video of me just staring into space, lol.

Parker Brown That's how I am with all my projects. I thought the pembridge was made up of three plates. Are you changing it a little?

The Pembridge upper portion was raised from one piece, but this is not. I wanted to go off of a variation from Brian Price and Peter Fullers' methods so it would be more technically accessible to a beginning armourer. But good call, you are correct!

Mike Thomas yeah, sure I can help! When you click on the image and it pulls up on its own page, right click on it and drag down to where it says "open in a new tab". When it opens, right click again and download it. I do not know about Windows, but you can open it on Preview on a Mac and change the size and scale of the image before printing it out. Hope this helps.

awsome thanks so much man cant believe i couldnt figure that out....... so after resizing to 200% i take it i need to print it on a3 as it no longer fits a4?

While the screw and thread were an Ancient Greek invention, we don't really see surviving threaded nuts and bolts in armour until about the 15th century. The Pembridge Helm, from the early 14th century, could have been held together by other means. Personally, I've experimented with tapered wood, copper and brass rods hammered into place and then removed as the piece is riveted together, but nothing has satisfied the full requirements of the fastener. I'll keep trying though, ;-).

Kevin MacLeod ~ Angevin

It's just iMovie :)

+parafan4ever I am so sorry that I haven't responded! For some reason, KZfaq didn't notify me of alerts...oh well...I hope your project turned out well! As for advice: stick to it and have patience. You're going to produce some amazing things that a year later will look like utter junk to your ever-changing eyes. It's okay. They don't call it "skilled labor" for nothing. Prepare to never be able to watch a movie or TV with armour in it because it's just sooooooo bad, lol! And most of all, don't forget to LOVE what you're doing. Metalwork does NOT pay and it's near impossible to make a living at it. So if you don't love it...it's gonna be hard. Oh and find a wife/girlfriend/husband/boyfriend that is VERY forgiving and make her/him something cool whenever possible because wife/girlfriends/husbands/boyfriends are awesome!

+Parker Brown haha thanks ;) yea a little to late but its okay :) i did okay with it ;) the time frame did so i need to rush the last bit of it :( i got what would be a B in your country ;)

+parafan4ever well hopefully it won't be your last piece!

Part 2 WILL be finished and posted this week.

Sorry for the delayed response! Only the last one requires scaling to 200% :-).

+DrummondWarrior I would love to, but I was numbskulled and lost track of all my music and didn't edit it into the final version. BUT, thank you for watching and I'll do better in the future ;-).

Yes, but brass is not as strong as steel.

Gloin79 It matches the historical thickness of the original. Keep in mind that most SCA groups use thicker armour than would have been used historically due to safety considerations. Living SCA members tend to be happier SCA members ;-).

Ok thanks for the reply :p

I'm very sorry, I don't understand the question.

Parker Brown Maybe he means centre punching the holes

gabriel horacio lataza lanteri CENTER PUNCH

depends on what you want to do... im currently making this helmet and the THICCest metal i had was 1mm but if i could choose what thickness o would choose 1,8 mm or 2mm so i could get into fights and not get hurt.

I made one in 2 mm and it weighs 4,8 kg.

Unfortunately, the original file and site link are gone and I'm unable to recover them. I do apologize.

+Gega Aura A simple question with a complex answer. The best I can do at this moment is direct you to this diagram: www.wulflund.com/images/how_to_measure_head_armour_custom_helmet_eng_c.jpg

+Parker Brown IS there any difference between the Tape measurements and the Compass measurements?

+Gega Aura Yes. Tape measurements give you the circumference of the skull while a compass measurement gives you the diameter.

+John Cena You are a successful wrestler and I'm sure can afford the necessary equipment. However, given your strength and power, the necessary hammers and stakes could be easily substituted for your raw fists and willpower. That said, my advice is to start with a few simple tools and work your way up. Don't underestimate getting tools at trade meets, garage sales and the Goodwill store. Honestly, my first tools were a drill, ball pien hammer, a sanded down trailer ball hitch and the dirt on the ground outside. Those three things produced my first shield boss ;-).

Do you also happen to have a pattern for making a Brigandine or coat of plates?

+John Cena I do, it will be included as part of my upcoming book ;-).

+Parker Brown Where can I buy that?

+Der Wolf It will be offered through Schiffer Publishing in either late 2017 or early 2018. Right now it's not available because I'm still writing it ;-).

john curian ....why?

@@ParkerBrown1979 your right that is only about 6mm maby 10mm

I would like it for my collection

Could it he done

Unfortunately, I’m not taking any commission orders right now. However, there are many talented armourers out there that could certainly make this same item. Royal Oak Armoury has an excellent line that is made to a high standard of historical accuracy :-).

1018 low-carbon mild steel. The originals would be wrought iron sheet.

thank you.from argentina!

you recommend use stainless steel for helmets?

I know of a lot of people who make armour with stainless steel. Personally, I don't like how it works. It's not a historical metal and it doesn't do everything that mild steel or high carbon steel will do. If you are worried about rust, you can blue mild steel which will make it rust resistant.

my question is that i cant find steel 1018. 1045 serves?

Lol, that is not my intent. Honestly, the music is increasingly an issue due to copyright rules on KZfaq, so I have to work with license free music where I can find it.

@@ParkerBrown1979the music seems fitting....I just woke up and am waiting for my wife to finish in the shower so I am already tired.....so no complaints here.

....I don't sell these for $36