Thank you Jess :)

thanks =D

I work full time so only work on them over the weekend so they take a little longer

Thanks mate =D

Thankyou =D

My uncle built the frame and i bought the platen from someone who makes them

@@SavageCustomCreative it looks really good.. nice setup

I’m using 14c28n stainless with a 8 min soak 3mm steel at 1080 deg, i heat treat before i grind to avoid the decarb issue

@@SavageCustomCreative reading Sandviks data sheet it calls out an oil quench and warns of carbide precipitation’s, how do find things when plate quenching? Any brittleness concerns post temper? Been looking for SS for next build and this looks tempting!

Hi mate, the data sheet shows it can be oil and air hardened, I've done 100s this way wothout any issues at all with any steel defects

Yeah mate a couple lower alloy stainless steels like specifically Sandviks 12c27 or 14c28n CAN be treated in a gas forge and oil quenched with fairly decent results. Particularly if you have some way to at least know and control the temperature and everything to a roughly accurate degree. (And are careful with the soak and whatnot) Like I've done it a handful of times on a good gas forge I fitted out with several hi-temp thermocouples and a good digital readout that gave a reasonable ability to do so. Not great but faaarr better than just trying to guess it by eye. I think its a decent way for people who are just starting out or starting out working with (far superior imho, in every way) high alloy chromium martensitic blade steels to try it and gain abit of knowledge and experience without having to buy a good accurate hi-temp heat treating oven or much of the complicated, specialised, often hard to get, and expensive equipment required to really work with and properly process any of the best (and truly great, excellent, and vastly superior to any simple carbon steel in every way[sorry all u guys who disagree. But its true:]]] modern high alloy martensitic hyperuetectoid chromium stainless tool steels. ) They're also relatively cheap and relatively soft and easy to work with, easier on tools and easier to finish by hand and such then other types of stainless. Corrosion resistance isn't that great compared to other higher chromium steels like 440c but still pretty good.. The two sandviks can give a fairly impressive pretty finished and be mirror polished quite well actually to. Takes a nice shine. Keeps it pretty well too. I've still got and occasionally use a couple I treated this way years ago and still rather impressed how they look and perform still tbh. Plenty decent enough for the average knife user and casual home cook to use in the kitchen I'd say.. (And imho faaarr better and more hygienic than using ANY sort of knife made of simple carbon steel or non stainless tool steel. In the kitchen or for anything to do with food preparation for human consumption. Noooooooo! Not even all stainless martensitic steel is suitable and even these ones are a little too low-chromium for that for my liking.) If I remember right they even respond quite well to a makeshift "cooling treatment" (can't call it cryogenic cause nowhere near cold enough or intrucate) of just leaving them in a normal household chest freezer set to as cold as it gets for a day or so straight after quench and before tempering. That said it's certainly not an ideal way to process them or any good chromium steel, and you'll get far better results and draw out much more of the steels potential by doing it the proper way, the more proper the better. Including a proper cryogenic processing regime. But then working with high performance high alloy stainless blade steels is a real science, or art, or something haha. One that takes awhole lot of knowledge, experience, skill , hard work, trial and error, plenty of failure on the way too... lots of expensive and complicated equipment fir it, sometimes like some of my cryo gear like special deep cryogenic freezers painstakingky sourced from around the globe then custom-fitted out and tweaked to suit that specific purpose. (Helps too if you've already got a sh_tload of money, power or influence, and all the right sort of connections across the world to get stuff done haha) Also its typically much harder on all your tools, wears all your bekts and blades and bits and such out faster and takes more work and higher level of skill in cutting, drilling, grinding, finishing, hand sanding and all that than simple carbon steel. Generally can't be hand forged either which some enjoy. And did I mention expensive? Yes many of the raw steels are crazy expensive haha, and harder to source. Especially compared to old world carbon steels, even moreso scrap "mystery" steel. :)) So sadly I can understand I guess why more people more or most knifemakers don't ever get into or learn how to work with them properly. But I still think it's a crying shame as for one the performance of the properly made finished product is just... incomparable, soooo much better! The industry truly has created and made available for us some outstanding blade steels. And I for one despite the extra effort enjoy and prefer working them for the vast majority of the time. (And sharing or showing off the finished product and capabilities) Not to mention it's so nice to spend all that time making them and say spend eons doing a beautiful flawless mirror polished or other hi-end finish and not have someone spill coffee or juice on it or leave it in the wrong place or just eye it off in a way it doesn't like and have it turn into a black and red pile of iron chips a day or two later! Only a slight exaggeration haha. Or for it to need sharpening daily or every hour it's used. (Really NOT an exaggeration compared to simple carbon) Indeed the difference is like, annual touch up sharpening instead of daily, and that's with quite heavy regular use. And mirror polishes that last, indefinitely! anyway I'm bout sick of typing now as anyway who read this far probably is of reading so.....

@@SavageCustomCreative what about using a coating like NuClayer or anything that would be used to produce a hamon to prevent decarb? I have thought about this a lot.

We use stainless steel they're quenched between the aluminium plates it draws.the heat out fast

@@SavageCustomCreative really interesting. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. Seems like a much more risk-free way of hardening and avoiding losing blades to warping

@@eoinkirwan1635 definitely helps to minimise warps and much faster to batch blades as we can do multiple at one time

We can make these to order message our business page on Facebook, Savage Custom Knives

In shaping? Nah they're designed for that. Long as you know what youre doing. Sometimes happens though if the belts torn or compromised some way say you hit it with something sharp that cuts it or catches on it and pulls in the knife. (The bench grinder type polishing wheels are faaaarrrrr more dangerous for that though. Arguable the most dangerous tool in a knifemakers workshop. I always get abit nervous using it. Hold or use it slightly the wrong way or have a tiny slip and it'll catch and the blade like a bullet into the wall on the other side of the workshop, or straight into your body cebter mass) Always gives me abit of jump when it happens though haha. Long as there's meat left on the edge it's moving into and you're holding it right it should be no problem. If you try to sharpen on them though into a live edge that can be a problem though. I usually just put it in reverse for that though and turn the speed fairly slow, on a smooth belt. Not all grinders can do that though.

How do you think it’s not hard.

@@SavageCustomCreative I didn't see a quench.

Yea you did, plate quenched, some stainless not all stainless steels need to be dunked in oil they can be air hardened or aluminium plate cooled, the goal of the plates is to cool the steel fast just like oil and does the same job, sandvik 14c28n check it out :)

@@SavageCustomCreative Yeah I saw that. I didn't think that would cool it quickly enough. Time for some investigating, thanks.

Yeah mate it’s so easy less mess and the plates keep the knife straight

Oh not stainless? Sandvik 14c27 is stainless my friend

@@SavageCustomCreative 9 months later, I still think this guy is stupid. 14c27 is more stainless then AEB-l which everyone loves because of its stainless ability. Maybe he thought your heat-treat was off but I wouldn't see why. different methods possible here