Thank you very much!

Hi Jo. I encourage you to give it a go. Makes a beautiful bowl.

Hi Betty. It has an amazing light. Fantastic in other colours as well.

Happy to.

Hi Barbro. And you can make it in so many colours.

Hi Johnella. My pleasure. Trying to keep them coming. Retirement gets in the way 😁

Hi Patricia. My pleasure and hope it all works well.

Hi Melissa. Always glad to help.

Hi Jonathan. And that light wasn't the best. When I put it in the gallery it really looks nice. A great feature piece.

Hi Gwen. How are you? Great I hope. Yes, I think that is a good idea. Should listen to Ann more 😄

Hi George. I really appreciate that comment. It's great motivation to keep going. Sorry for the delay.

You are so welcome!

Not a problem. Glad to help.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Muy contento de ayudar.

Hi Susan. Yes, that dense white... Glad it all helped.

My pleasure Jim.

My pleasure. In that video you'll find the schedules in the video just after each firing section. In newer videos have a look in the description there's a link with the title 'Project Info + Firing Schedule'. This will take you to a page on my website and at the bottom of that page are the firing schedules. Hope this helps.

I think I took them up to about 805 (1480 F) and held for about 30 minutes for this project. But I would suggest a bit higher, maybe 815 C (1500 F). Keep in mind your kiln may fire differently. If you want them perfectly round just set your hold time long then keep an eye on them until they form correctly. Then skip the segment. Note your temp and hold time for future firings. Dense white does contain lead, and aqua contains copper. Bullseye list doesn't list them as reactive, but just do a small test to be sure. If they react then when you turn it over the white won't be white 😕

Hi Ed. The reason I used it is simple, that's what I had on hand. Plus, I like the bubbles. To me it gives a more handmade organic look. If you don't like the small bubbles, try using Tekta Crystal Clear. Yes, that is a shop bought mould. But you could use a ceramic bowl from the kitchen. I have a number of moulds that came from the cheap shop. I just sandblasted off the glaze and then sprayed with boron nitride. I've never tried using them with the glaze on 🙄 Always assumed that it would melt and cause problems, and I have a sandblaster. But I believe the glaze on ceramics fires a lot hotter so may not be a problem. Mmm, maybe I'll try. Hope that helps.

Hi W J. The aqua was only 2 mm, not 3 mm. That would have allowed the cabs to make up the difference to 6 mm. Even if the bottom sheets were both 3 mm the spread wouldn't have been that great. I would have just cold worked to the final shape.

To make the little dots, just one layer fused long enough to round off. You could use 2, you would just have larger dots. Hope it all works well.

Hi Kathie. Yes, there is a chance of small bubbles whenever you fuse two pieces of glass together. I wasn't concerned as they would only be small and I don't mind small bubbles. From memory I don't think I had a devit problem with that piece. If I had I would have either sandblasted it and done a fire polish, or I would have lightly covered with clear frit and refired.

Hi Laura. Yes, you can use 3 mm. I used 2 mm simply because I had only 2 mm in that colour. The 2 mm meant I would have less spread, and you may get more with 3 mm, but that may not be a problem especially with a round piece and you don't mind a little organic look around the edge. No, I didn't glue on the little cabs. Glue would make it easier to move to the kiln, but because it's transparent make sure the glue you use burns out clearly. I use as little as I can of the Bullseye GlasTac and that is generally fine. But if I use too much I sometimes get a little residue. I'm in Toowoomba, Queensland. You're certainly welcome to visit. Just let me know so I can clean up the gallery. Hasn't been open since early 2020. We have Anns mum with us and she's 90 so we have been very careful. Also would like to convert the garage and set it up there, rather than the bedroom it's currently in. So may be out of action for a while. Depends on funds and more work. 🙄 But I can show you my humble studio and other work I've done. However, now we're all fully vaccinated we're thinking about opening it again. Not that we ever got a lot of visitors. Toowoomba isn't exactly a top tourist destination. 😕We'll just wait and see how this opening up goes.

@@RocketRoseArt Thank you so much for your reply Jeff. I look forward to seeing more of your creations!

I think you will need to go higher for longer. For this piece I held at 800 for 5 minutes, but my kiln will be different to yours. Try the 800, or even a little higher, but watch it to see when it does finally fuse. Going higher shouldn't be a problem. I've taken pieces up to 815 without a problem. The higher temps simply make the glass more molten. You can get devit sometimes. Depends on the glass you're using, both colour and COE and manufacturer.

Hi Pam. Yes you can. It's just that the effect will be more subtle. You could use any colour dots and any main colour. Just your preference.

@@RocketRoseArt thank you.

Hi Ike. Sure, I'd appreciate it. Always good to help.

@@RocketRoseArt Great, thanks. I wanted to add your bubble grid platter but it's 'Whitelisted'. Did you put a 'no-copying' block on that one?

@@RocketRoseArt Your videos are 'locked' and we cannot create shortcuts from the URLs. Did you know that? I have 'whitelisted' them - whatever that means.

@@Lunch4Learning I posted them in a Facebook group. It was possible

In my experience a slump won't give you a full fire polish. It will semi-polish only. For example, a sandblasted surface will smooth and give a satin like finish, but not a full polish and remove all the texture.

Thank you

Hi Judith. I doubt you could dilute the colour to clear. In what I've done there is always some colour, though diluted. Even bigger cabochons still left colour.

@@RocketRoseArt Thank you I will use a transparent glass.

Hi Jennifer. It would a simple schedule. For dense white, which is hard to get round, ramp it up to something like 815 and hold until they round. Then just let the kiln cool naturally. No need for an annealing hold, because they are so small. For these small cabs I rarely have a hold on the way up or down.

BTW, that's a long drive to the studio!

Hi Carol. That's the Beetle Bits Cutting System.

That was a Japanese style bowl. There should be a shot of the bowl in the video.

Absolutely. Opal or transparent.

It's called a Japanese plate shape. Here's a link, though I know this is Australia. Should be able to get over there. www.glassfusing.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_38&products_id=3279

Thank you!

Absolutely. That's why Ann thought it would be better on the top.

Hi Barbara. Yes, you'll find dense lighter colours take a little more processing to round off. Dense white is particularly hard. Either take the temp up a little or just hold longer. Keep them close to the middle of the kiln and take a peek until they round off. Be sure to wear infrared glasses if you look in the kiln, and wear heat-proof gloves as you open it. If you have a grinder taking off the corners of the squares will help. Good luck with it.

Hi Anon. If you have a look at the description you'll find a list of the chapters in the video. There is one for the slumping process. Is there something that I haven't covered that you want to understand?